Engine overhaul. How to do a proper engine overhaul so that it is better than new. What is an overhaul and why is it needed?

Do you think engine overhaul is a complete headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they charge for a job, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start working. Because for that kind of money you can repair three engines. This means that we will save money and carry out major repairs ourselves.

When does an engine require major overhaul?

As you drove along, suddenly the engine of your favorite iron horse began to knock. Don’t rush to grab the capital right away. We need to check everything first.

First of all, let’s be clear right away that this is not a rebuild of the engine, when it was disassembled, cleaned, gaskets were changed and reassembled. There are more serious reasons here. So, let's pay attention to the premises:

How old is the car? How far has she run already? Foreign car or domestic? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example, “Zhiguli” or “Moskvich”, then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps your car’s lifespan has been exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
Let's see what happens with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, despite the fact that the car is burning oil ungodly - another reason for repairs.
We check the compression, since this is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether a major overhaul is needed or not. We borrow a compression meter from a friend and take measurements. For example, in our case, out of four indicators, instead of an eight, one is already a five - which means it’s definitely time for a major overhaul.

Where to begin?

Of course, with information. We get a manual that tells you in detail and with diagrams , how to repair your particular brand of car. We find a catalog on the Internet that contains spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.

Preparing tools:

keys - ratchet, torque;
mandrels for clutching pistons, caps;
desiccant for valves;
micrometer;
heads;
device for adjusting valves;
two-legged or three-legged puller;
stethoscope;
tweezers;
support post;
hydraulic chain hoist;
puller set.

Getting to the engine

We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so it doesn't interfere.

Carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and cylinder block, we install taps - they are sold at any auto store - and drain them using hoses into a prepared container.

Considering the age of the car, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not fall apart in our hands and nothing is damaged or broken. And then some craftsmen still repair wiring, cooling system.

Without haste, we remove everything that may interfere with getting the engine out: air filter, carburetor, fuel pump - do not forget to screw on the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. Now the engine can be removed.

Stages of engine overhaul using the example of the Zhiguli brand

Step #1

Before you get to the inside of the engine and start making major repairs, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - you can’t manage here alone.

Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two wooden blocks on top. Then place the engine on them.

Step #2

Now attach the talc, i.e. lift, to the ceiling beam, it can be attached to a tripod, positioned above the hood.

Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like a 140 kilogram unit? Serious thing? It is clear that you cannot lift it with your hands, and if it falls, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the fastening of the talc, and only then begin lifting.

Step #3

Carefully, without unnecessary fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.

When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are removing what and where the part was originally located, so that later you don’t have extra ones left, like some homemade ones.

Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the crankcase boot. Move on to the oil filter. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.

Step #4

Now remove the front and rear covers of the block together with the oil seal. Handle the pig star and remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stopper and unscrew and remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain and crankshaft sprocket.

Move on to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, and carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones at a specialty store or car market. Just first decide whether a groove is needed for the necks, and only then adjust the liners to fit them. Remove the crankshaft with thrust half rings.

Step #5

Remove the pig, the oil pump and its drive gear. Turn it over, placing it on its side, and remove the pistons and connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to contact a car repair shop.

Take new pistons, have the block bored for them, and also grind the crankshaft and press in the piston pins. Measure the crankshaft journals with a micrometer, look in the manual to see what size the bearings should be, and buy them. If you select the bearings correctly, you will be able to rotate the crankshaft by hand - this will be a fit test.

Step #6

Begin assembly by removing carbon deposits. Remove all metal shavings, wash the beds, lubricate them and the liners with engine oil, and install them in place, following the instructions. Place thrust half-rings on the rear wall of the block so that the grooves are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.

Now you can put the crankshaft with liners and covers back in place, checking the markings in the manual and the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.

Step #7

Ask the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat them to over 200. Check the process.

Now carefully coat the piston pins through the holes, slowly add the piston rings, make sure that the slots and holes are preserved, and tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.

Step #8

Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Turn the block over to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.

Lightly begin to pull the connecting rods towards the journals. Then rotate the crankshaft to make sure that everything is installed correctly and there is no need to change the bearings. Now you can tighten the bolts.

Step #9

Place a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, and first coat the joints with sealant. Proceed to installing the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that by grooving the flywheel must be turned towards the fourth elbow of the crankshaft - this is important.

Now start installing the sprocket, pig, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.

Step #10

Finally you can install the engine and secure it with bolts. Tighten carefully to avoid stripping threads and breaking parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.

Cold running

As soon as a major overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold run-in before installing it on the car. This is done so that the new parts get used to each other, and is carried out in a passive, bench mode or during hard towing, when due to the movement of the wheels the crankshaft begins to rotate and cold running in occurs.

So, in the garage, connect the hoses of the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, exhaust to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to the electric motor.

Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then the oil heated to 80 degrees. At low speeds, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high speeds, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.

Tips for operating an engine after a major overhaul

Before the car runs two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, and do not overload the engine.
After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with clean oil of the same brand (preferably).

Now you are convinced that overhauling the engine yourself is possible and profitable, because it costs three times less. In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending its service life, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.

The following video will tell you what spare parts are needed to overhaul the VAZ 2103 engine:

Take it for yourself and tell your friends!

What is included in an engine overhaul?

Overhaul of diesel and gasoline engines is done in stages:

Disassembling the internal combustion engine.
Parts washing and cleaning.
After cleaning, an experienced auto mechanic is able to determine how badly certain parts are worn and whether they can be repaired or better replaced. They do troubleshooting, that is, after the cylinder head (cylinder head) has been removed, it and the cylinder block (cylinder head) are checked for chips and cracks; examine the cylinders for scuffs and scratches; determine the gaps of mating parts; inspect the condition of the pistons for the presence of chips, shells, carbon deposits; inspect the crankshaft connecting rods; study of the internal combustion engine crankshaft; fingers; bearings; parts of the gas distribution mechanism are also checked (valves, rocker arms, etc.). They also compare the dimensions of important parts with the factory ones.
After troubleshooting, it is necessary to assess the degree of wear of the entire engine: what to change, what to leave, what to repair.

If you have never had to completely disassemble an engine, then it would be more correct and better to invite a friend who understands it.
It is advisable to carry out disassembly in a warm and well-lit garage.
During disassembly, place all bolts, washers and nuts in a box with partitions, do not throw everything in one bucket.
During disassembly, remember the sequence if you are doing this for the first time.
If you don’t know what the spare parts are called, take the old parts to the store and show them to the seller.

Do-it-yourself engine overhaul

In our manual for do-it-yourself engine overhaul, here is the following sequence of actions:

Dismantling and disassembly.
Defective parts.
Washing disassembled parts.
Ordering and purchasing spare parts.
Grinding the block and crankshaft.
Block head repair.
Test work.
Assembly and installation of internal combustion engines.
Run-in after capital.
Conclusion.

Dismantling and disassembly

Depending on the make and model of the car (engine design, number of cylinders, type of gearbox), the engine removal process may vary. The engine location on front-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive is also different.

Carburetor engines are much easier and faster to disassemble, since they are not stuffed with electronic devices, in the presence of which, in order to get to the engine itself, you have to carefully dismantle them all.

So, if you have to capitalize Kamaz, for example, then its diesel engine from the Yaroslavl YaMZ-236 plant will take about 10 hours to dismantle. If you do the same work with heavy-duty Kamaz analogues, it will take more than 30 hours.

And to disassemble a VAZ engine, it takes about 3 hours. And the engines of foreign passenger cars will take about 10 hours.

It is necessary to disassemble slowly, throwing bolts and nuts anywhere. With disassembly, diagnostics, so to speak, have already begun.

Defects of elements during internal combustion engine capitalization

The defect in this case is mechanical, that is, it is necessary to check visually and with the help of measuring instruments the wear of parts.

Troubleshooting of internal combustion engines includes the following work:

inspect the crankshaft and measure its dimensions, check for bends and alignment;
inspect the cylinder block body (BC);
check the parts of the connecting rod and crank mechanism for play and the condition itself: pistons, cylinders, rings, pins, connecting rods;
inspect the cylinder head housing (cylinder head);
gas distribution mechanism parts;
determine the maintainability of parts and assemblies.

Washing the engine and individual parts after disassembly

Many people neglect such work as washing the engine. It is advisable to rinse each part and remove plaque so that the degree of wear can be determined, and also rinse the cylinder head and BC to detect macrocracks, if any.

What spare parts are needed for engine overhaul?

After completing the troubleshooting procedure and sifting out those that are suitable for restoration and those that are not, you need to order new parts to replace the unusable ones. When you already know what spare parts are needed, you don’t need to delay ordering and purchasing them, since new parts still need to be prepared for installation.

Spare parts for overhauls for gasoline engines:

Liners (main and connecting rod).
Piston group parts.
Connecting rod pins.
Connecting rod bushings.
Valves (all, both intake and exhaust).
Oil scraper rings.
Gaskets (full set).
Valve guides and seats.
Pump with repair kit.
Oil filter and pump.
Other related details.

Grinding the block and crankshaft

After the issue with spare parts has been resolved, they begin to repair and restore the block and crankshaft of the internal combustion engine. Using a milling and surface grinding machine, the layer of the seat of the cylinder head and the block itself is removed until there are no shells or chips left. It happens that there are several deep shells, due to which you have to remove the layers in several passes. Usually, depending on the degree of damage, layers of 1 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.25 mm, 0.1 mm, 0.05 mm thick are cut off. After this, they begin to grind the surface to a mirror shine.

For crankshaft grinding, there is a special table that shows the thickness and efficiency values after repair compared to a new factory one.

Type of repair	Thickness, mm	Efficiency compared to new
Repair No. 1	0,25	80-90%
Repair No. 2	0,50	70-75%
Repair No. 3	0,75	65-70%
Repair No. 4	1,00	50-55%
Repair No. 5	1,25	40-45%
Repair No. 6	1,50	Less than 30%
Repair No. 7	2,00	Not applicable since 1995

Repair of the block head (cylinder head of the internal combustion engine)

Although it is not difficult to carry out repair work on the cylinder head, for some reason many people try to send it to a service center.

Repair of the block head consists of the following types of work:

We replace the camshaft (all that is in this engine).
We change the suction and exhaust valves.
We change the guide bushings.
with saddles.
If there are cracks in the cylinder head, then we either change the head and grind it again, or weld these cracks with argon.

Test work

After the main repair and restoration work has been completed, testing and additional work still remains. This includes clutch alignment and engine pressure testing.

For alignment, some services provide special alignment stands. The crankshaft and clutch connection must be centered. A balanced crankshaft and clutch will reduce wear and friction, as well as end runout.

Assembly and installation of internal combustion engines

Sequence of engine assembly after major overhaul:

If you decide to make a capital with your own hands for the first time, after all the work before assembly, it is better to carry out the assembly with an experienced specialist in this matter. The lifespan of the entire car depends on the quality of the assembly.

Run-in after capital

The most enjoyable process in such work is the necessary running-in for the engine with new parts. During break-in, new parts are ground in, so it is not recommended to immediately apply a large load. It is recommended to run-in for up to 2000 km without jerks or sudden starts.

There are several break-in methods:

Running in cold on a stand.
Cold running without a stand. This method is common, especially in the CIS countries. After preparing everything necessary (engine oil and coolant are filled in), without starting the engine, tow the car at speed 3 for 2 hours. This method is not recommended. By the way, a very important reminder: motor oil has a code and symbols for additives; before purchasing it, it is advisable to learn how to use it, after which you can make the right choice yourself.
Hot running. This method involves starting the engine and letting it idle for 3 minutes, then turning off the engine. And they do this several times, only waiting for the engine to cool down. Then, after short starts, start the engine and let it run for 1 hour. During break-in, the engine is inspected for leaks and other indicators. After running in, adjust the valve clearances and set the desired ignition. If contact ignition is installed, it is recommended to replace the old one. It reduces fuel consumption and generates high voltage up to 24 kilovolts, while contact ignition can supply no more than 18 kilovolts to the spark plug. Thanks to this, they even give a spark.
Natural run-in. It is run in under the following conditions: smooth ride, speed no more than 60 km. After overhaul without installing new liners, running-in is carried out up to 2 thousand km. If new liners were installed, then 4 thousand km.

Abroad, they say, car service centers have run-in and test benches for internal combustion engines. Using special electronics, this stand shows the service life of a restored engine.

If you decide not to do the overhaul yourself, but to send it to a service center, you will receive a guarantee for the repaired motor. The guarantee is given depending on how you choose, some for 20 thousand km, others for 30 thousand km. mileage

Doing an engine overhaul with your own hands is only partially possible. Because we need machines, the cylinder head and cylinder head have to be sent for boring and grinding. You can do the rest of the work yourself. The simpler the car, the easier it is to repair. Making capital on VAZ, GAZ, UAZ, NIVA cars yourself is not difficult.

To increase the engine life of any car you need:

buy high-quality spare parts and consumables;
undergo maintenance in a timely manner;
the most important thing is to change the engine oil every 6-7 thousand kilometers;
A neat, smooth ride without jerking also increases the service life of the car.

After a major overhaul of the engine, the oil must be changed at the following intervals:

After 500 km of travel - the first replacement.
After 1000 km of travel - the second replacement.
After 1500 km of travel - the third oil change.
After 2000 km of travel - the fourth replacement and, further according to the schedule, every 10-15 t.km.

The video shows some types of internal combustion engine overhaul work.

In our previous article, we wrote that due to the economic crisis and the rise in price of imported spare parts, overhaul of internal combustion engines (ICE repair) is once again becoming relevant and economically feasible. In this article we will talk about the main methods and technologies that are used to restore damaged and worn engine parts.

Before carrying out a major overhaul of a car engine, it is completely disassembled, after which all parts are washed and defective. This is a prerequisite for ensuring a high quality result of internal combustion engine repair, since wear products and parts of damaged parts can get into the cooling jacket or block the oil channel, which will lead to repeated failure of the repaired engine.

Cylinder block Before starting repairs, they are checked in a special pressure test bath for the presence of hidden cracks. Identified shallow damage to the car engine being repaired is first drilled out to the base using a milling cutter, and then welded with metal. Using welding, the holes punched by the connecting rod in the block of the engine being repaired are sealed, and the damaged partitions between the cylinders are also restored. It is worth noting that blocks made of aluminum and aluminum alloys are easier to cook than cast iron, since they have a lower melting point. Holes in cast iron blocks are repaired using cast iron patches.

Cylinder block boring

Worn or damaged cylinder walls are bored to repair size and pistons and piston rings of larger diameter are used. But this method of repairing internal combustion engines is applicable only to engines whose manufacturer made a reserve during design that allows them to bore the cylinder block.

In lined cylinder blocks, the liners are pressed out and new ones are installed. Repair of internal combustion engines for which the manufacturer has not provided for this is carried out as follows: first you need to bore the cylinder, and then press in a cast-iron liner with a diameter under a standard piston for each compartment. If the cylinder block of the car engine being repaired is made of aluminum alloy and has a small wall thickness between the cylinders, then the cast iron liner also strengthens the structure.

The surfaces of the block and head, deformed due to overheating, are ground on a machine, and the gasket is selected to such a thickness that the degree of compression does not change.

Crankshaft and grinding

Damaged crankshaft beds of a car engine being repaired are restored by processing on a horizontal honing machine. At the same time, a very thin layer of metal is removed and a perfectly even axis of rotation is ensured, which is a very important condition, since otherwise uneven loads will act on the shaft, which can lead to jamming or breakage and complete failure of the repaired internal combustion engine.

Defects of the crankshaft are carried out both by visual inspection and measurements, and using various technical means. A rather interesting method for checking the crankshaft is magnetic flaw detection:

the crankshaft is mounted on two supports with windings of different polarities;
special oil is applied to the surface;
Afterwards the crankshaft is sprinkled with metal powder.

The magnetic field, which is created when current passes through the shaft, makes it possible to detect hidden cracks in the shaft, because Powder particles are characteristically lined up above them.

Detected shallow damage on the journals is eliminated by grinding the crankshaft, and liners of the required sizes are selected for the engine being repaired. If there are no original repair parts, they are replaced with non-original ones, and sometimes they are made independently to the required size.

When repairing a car engine, the bends of the crankshaft are adjusted using special pressing equipment. If the journals are worn heavily, a tape made of a high-strength alloy is welded onto them, after which the crankshaft is ground to the size of the liners. The same method is used to restore surfaces damaged by mining under the seals. During the repair of internal combustion engines, broken key connections are also subject to restoration.

The described method is not used for diesel crankshafts, because they operate under higher loads that occur on the parts of the crank mechanism. You will only have to buy a new crankshaft if there are large cracks on it.

Piston group - replacing pistons?

When overhauling a car engine, replacing pistons may not be necessary if the residual thickness of their walls and bottom allows for restoration. However, piston manufacturers do not provide repair dimensions and companies that specialize in internal combustion engine repairs can only rely on their personal experience.

Counterings are made on the piston bottom damaged by the impact on the valve. If it is not possible to find rings of a suitable size for the piston of the car engine being repaired, then the grooves are slightly bored for them.

Without replacing the pistons, the connecting rods themselves are aligned on a pressing machine, and a new bushing is installed under the piston pin.

The cylinder head (cylinder head) is checked in the same way as the block itself - in a pressure test bath. In order for hidden cracks to expand, hot water is poured into it, after which all technological openings are closed and air is supplied under excess pressure to the cooling jacket. If there are cracks, air bubbles will be visible in the corresponding place.

The restoration of the cylinder head, as well as the cylinder block, is carried out by welding. After that, the head of the block of the engine being repaired is checked again in a pressure test bath.

Other possible technological operations during a major overhaul of a car engine:

The valve guides are replaced with repair ones (if any) or made independently.
Excessively worn valve seats are bored out and new ones are pressed in their place.
Bent camshafts are aligned on a pressing machine. As a rule, there are no cracks on them.
The beds, as in the cylinder block, are bored on a special machine. After that, metal strips are welded onto the supporting surfaces of the shafts and polished.

Repair technologies developed over a long period of time make it possible to restore almost any engine with damage of varying complexity. But do not forget that major repairs are not cheap, and before starting work, it is necessary to carry out economic calculations, because it may be much cheaper to purchase a new power unit.

The engine is overhauled in the following cases: destruction of the pistons due to a broken timing belt; natural wear of the piston group; compression loss in the cylinders.

Before starting work, you can think about tuning (improving) the engine. Whatever the car, it is possible to increase the number of horsepower, and without significant costs. Let's look at the main stages of repair work so that you have an idea of what you will have to face.

Removing the engine from the car

This procedure cannot be avoided, since the motor must be removed, otherwise it simply cannot be completely disassembled. During the preparation stage, disconnect the battery to de-energize the power supply system. All attachments must be removed - carburetor, air filter, generator, starter, exhaust manifold, etc. Before dismantling the engine, you can also unscrew the cylinder head. Work with it will be carried out separately. Drain the oil from the crankcase, after which you will need a winch and assistants.

Four bolts secure the gearbox to the engine block. The engine and body on VAZ 2108-21099 cars are attached using one cushion. Suspend the engine on a cable and unscrew all the bolts, pre-treating the connections with penetrating lubricant to make work easier. For convenience, you can remove the hinges at the very beginning and move the hood to the side, this way you will have more space. After the final removal of the engine, you begin to disassemble it.

Now it’s worth talking about the requirements for each element of the motor.

Cylinder block

In any case, it needs to be repaired. First of all, clean the entire surface of oil, dirt and other deposits. The repair consists of boring the sleeves to the required size. You cannot carry out this procedure yourself; it is better to trust a specialist. The lathe who carries out the boring must have the skills to operate the machine. Do not trust such a task to an inexperienced person. Its reliability depends on how correctly the overhaul of the VAZ 2109 engine is done.

There are two boring options: under the mirror and with a fine mesh. In the second case, honing is done - the entire inner surface of the sleeves is covered with thin lines. Some people claim that this gives a boost in power. But in reality, the picture is the opposite - the wear of the piston rings increases, since the surface of the cylinder is similar to an ordinary file. Fortunately, this continues for 10-20 thousand km, after which the sleeve takes on a mirror-like appearance. Moreover, the geometry is not always ideal. For this reason, it is better to carry out boring under a mirror.

Is it worth lightening the pistons?

If you are interested in the idea of tuning in order to increase power, then the answer is clear: it is necessary to lighten the pistons! But if it is in your interests only to make repairs, then it is enough to install new ones. In any case, the increase in horsepower will be noticeable, as engine compression will increase. It is best to entrust the work of lightening to the same turner who is engaged in boring the cylinder block. As you can see, you cannot do a major engine overhaul with your own hands; you will have to resort to the services of specialists.

The essence of the process is to get rid of the “excess” metal in the internal part. To do this, the aluminum from the piston skirt is carefully ground off. Pay attention to whether there are scrapes - recesses for valves in the upper part. If they are present, then purchase repair ones with the same attributes. Otherwise, you will need to rebuild the engine every time the timing belt breaks. And don’t forget that each piston requires rings of the appropriate size - all values can be found in the car’s owner’s manual.

Crankshaft and its relief

This is perhaps the most massive element of the entire engine. If you only need to carry out a major overhaul of the VAZ engine, then you can limit yourself to replacing the main and connecting rod bearings. But if you are looking to increase power, you will need to do a lot of work. Moreover, it will again be impossible to do without the services of a turner. After all, only by using professional equipment can you get rid of “excess” metal on the surface of the crankshaft.

But don’t forget about one feature. The crankshaft has an axis of rotation, its center of gravity is located in such a way that no beating occurs. When you grind off metal, the alignment is disrupted. And by installing such a crankshaft, you will simply destroy both the bearings and the cylinder block housing. Therefore, after lightening, it is necessary to do balancing in order to restore the alignment of the shaft. But after a major overhaul, the engine will be much more powerful, which will surprise you beyond words.

Flywheel and clutch block

For tuning, these components should also be modified. As with the crankshaft, you will need to cut off a layer of metal from the inside of the flywheel. After this procedure, balancing is also necessary so that axial runout and, as a result, vibrations do not occur. You will need to use a reinforced clutch. Give preference to samples that are used for newer and more powerful car models. Based on what increase in horsepower you want to get in the end.

Oil pump and cooling system

Improving these components is extremely necessary when carrying out tuning. Lubrication of all units may be insufficient, as torque and power increase due to the lighter weight of the main elements. Carefully troubleshoot the oil pump gears so that the gaps are minimal. As for the cooling system, it would not be a bad idea to install a more efficient pump and a radiator with a larger area. A major overhaul of the 2109 engine, provided that there is no need for tuning, can be done without these procedures.

Block head repair

This unit is responsible for the quality of sealing of the combustion chamber at the moment of ignition of the mixture. Therefore, you should achieve maximum contact between the valve surfaces and the seats in the cylinder head. To do this, it is necessary to carry out grinding. The work is not difficult, but tedious and long. You will need a drill with reverse (even a hand-held one will do), a piece of rubber hose, two clamps, a metal rod, lapping pastes - finishing and coarse. Please ensure that after the work there are no abrasives left on the surface of the cylinder head. Clean everything and blow it out with compressed air.

First, a rough lapping paste is applied to the seat. Using a drill, rotate the valve in different directions (it is highly desirable that there be an equal number of revolutions). After getting rid of large surface irregularities, you need to apply finishing paste and grind in until shiny. Maximum contact between valve and seat is now ensured. The main thing is to install them in the same way as they were ground in; elements cannot be swapped. In this case, it will be impossible to achieve maximum tightness.

Overhauling an engine is a very serious project, but planning the job wisely can help you avoid costly mistakes and disappointments, as well as save you time and effort. Learn to remove an engine, disassemble it, and diagnose it to restore it to like-new condition or improve its power. Continue to step 1 for more information.

Steps

Part 1

Engine dismantling

Before starting work, wash the engine thoroughly. The dirt and dust collected on it will make it very difficult to unscrew the bolts and detach the parts.

Place the car near the lift. You will need a well-lit room with a level floor, large enough to accommodate the lift and space to work. A large enough garage would be an excellent choice.

Take photos of the engine and various parts from different angles. In the process of work they can become very useful. You can also print them and sign them.

Organize your workspace before you start working. Boxes for bolts, fasteners and clamps, a workbench or work table to put tools and parts on, as well as a rag and a bucket - having these things on hand will make your work much easier.

Remove the hood. Label the bolts so they are easy to find later. Unscrew the bolts smoothly, have someone help you remove the hood from the car, and place it in a safe place until work is completed. Keep in mind that some hoods have electrical wiring for the engine compartment lighting, headlights, parking lights or fog lights. It also needs to be removed.

Start disconnecting the external parts of the engine. First of all, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, then drain all the liquid from the cooling system hoses. Be careful not to damage the metal clamps - they are more difficult to replace than rubber hoses.
- Remove the radiator grille and fan shroud, if equipped. Be careful, the aluminum sections are very fragile and can be easily damaged.
- Then remove the alternator, tension rollers, fan and belts. Disconnect the air line and fuel line. On some vehicles, fuel system pressure will remain even when the engine is off, so make sure you drain excess fuel and relieve pressure. Removing the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor without removing all the hoses can save you some time.
- Take a couple of photos, draw a diagram, and label all the hoses using masking tape and a permanent marker. Don't rely entirely on your memory. Some wires and hoses will be obvious to connect, but others may be confusing - you'll need to use visual aids to help with assembly.
Disconnect all electrical connectors from the engine. You can leave the high voltage wires, but at this point you will need to disconnect the exhaust system and all electrical wires going to the transmission in preparation for removing the transmission.

Remove the bolts that hold the transmission pan. Raise the car with jacks and place it on supports, then hold the transmission from falling with another jack. It is very important to hold the box before you remove the box mounting bolts. If nothing holds the box, it will fall as soon as you unscrew the bolts. This does not apply to vehicles with a crossbar.
- In most cases there is no need to remove the transmission - it can remain installed on the vehicle while the engine is removed.
Remove the engine using a lift. Hooking the engine onto the special hooks on the cylinder head or the largest bolts closest to the top of the engine, gently lift the engine so that the front part comes out first.
- Please use caution. Carefully, so as not to hit the car, remove the engine and lower it onto a workbench or floor, where you will carry out diagnostics and further disassembly.
Part 2
Engine inspection and disassembly
1. Find the service manual for your car. No review can cover the intricacies of repairing each engine; all manufacturers provide instructions for each specific engine model. Find the appropriate instructions, read them and keep them handy at all times.
  - Even if you have an older model car, you can find the right manual for little money on eBay or look in the library. If you are investing money in engine repair, it is absolutely necessary to have on hand instructions that describe all the intricacies and features of your particular engine model.
2. Visually inspect the motor. Check for signs of leaks from plugs, connections to sensors, and connections between engine parts. Check the flywheel for cracks in the rubber insulation, which may indicate the need to replace it. Inspect the motor for signs of overheating. Inspect the gaskets for excess sealant from previous repairs.
  - Check the engine number and model to make sure you will work with the engine you are thinking about. Today, replacing an engine is a fairly popular procedure, and all engines have their own technical features.
3. Inspect the external parts of the engine. Check whether the mounting screws of the ignition distribution unit are loose by shaking it by hand. Check the belt, spin the roller and listen for unusual noises. Check clutch discs for excessive wear.
  
  Remove the exhaust manifold if you did not already have to remove it when removing the engine from the vehicle. The bolts on the exhaust system may be very rusty, try to loosen them without damaging them. Special lubricants can make the job easier, but some bolts can only be unscrewed when hot.
  
  Inspect the cylinder walls. Use a micrometer to measure the cylinder diameter; very worn cylinders may not be repairable. If you are confident that the engine has not been overhauled, you can assess cylinder wear by looking at the top edge. At the top of the cylinder there is no piston ring wear, but below this point the cylinder walls are in constant contact with the rings as they move up and down, so the original diameter of the cylinder can be estimated. In general, wear less than 0.5 mm allows the use of old pistons with replaced rings, and wear above 0.5 mm requires honing the cylinders and using larger diameter pistons. Remove the sill at the top of the cylinder using a special reamer.
  
  A threshold is formed in the upper part of the cylinder, where the piston rings do not reach at the top dead center. The cylinder walls do not work in this place, but eliminating this threshold is necessary so that the pistons can be removed and installed without fear of damaging the new rings.
  
  Remove the pistons and connecting rods. Remove the connecting rod caps and place protective caps on the connecting rods to protect the inner surface of the cylinder from mechanical damage from the connecting rod bolts during removal and installation. To protect the threads on the bolts, you can stretch pieces of rubber fuel hose over them. After removing the connecting rods, install the corresponding cap on each connecting rod and store them in pairs. Store parts grouped as they were in the cylinder. This is necessary so as not to unbalance the system and prevent breakdowns.
4. Remove and inspect the crankshaft. After dismantling, keep the crankshaft in a place where it will be protected from damage, use a special stand to make it convenient to take measurements. Treat old root bearings with care and inspect them for wear and contamination. After removing the crankshaft, reinstall the root bearing caps and tighten according to the instructions.
  - Remove the camshaft, balancers and gears. Pay attention to the sequence in which the washers and spacer rings are installed - during assembly they must be installed in the same order. Remove the bearings, write down which one should be installed where during assembly.
5. Visually inspect the crankshaft. Look for signs of overheating and cracking. Measure the dimensions of the crankshaft in different places. This procedure includes measuring the diameter of the main journal, crankshaft nose and shank, as well as the connecting rod journal to ensure that there is no radial runout. Compare with the dimensions stated in the instructions.
  - If the diameters differ from those stated in the passport, make the appropriate marks on the crankshaft and contact a trusted auto repair shop for a solution to this problem, which has all the necessary equipment to renew the surface of the bearing seats and eliminate radial runout. If the crankshaft has been repaired, study the removal of material and select new bearings of the appropriate diameter.
  - After the crankshaft has been straightened by the auto repair shop, use a cleaning rod to clean any metal shavings from the oil pipe passages. Then check the crankshaft diameters again to see if you can use the old bearings and avoid play.
6. Remove the remaining parts. Remove the plugs, brackets, pins and any other parts that are still installed on the cylinder block. Visually inspect the cylinder block for cracks.
  - Use Magnaflux to find cracks in the cylinder block. Magnaflux can only be used on cast iron blocks. Use contrasting grout on aluminum blocks. Most auto repair shops can perform these tests, and they can also pressure test the cylinder block and engine head. If you contact a car service center, you can also ask them to wash the cylinder block and engine head in a special bath.
7. Take measurements. This is best done at a body shop, but if you have the necessary tools, you can use a ruler and thickness gauge to check the surfaces for flatness. Take measurements in the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as diagonally. If the unevenness of the surface is greater than permissible according to the documentation, the surface must be resurfaced. Be careful when you start sanding - if you remove too much material, the valves will hit the pistons.
  - Use a bore gauge to ensure there is no radial runout in the cylinders. Inspect each cylinder for signs of tarnish and metal deposits on the cylinder walls. Use a hard, fine-abrasive sander to reveal any sagging on the cylinder walls.
Part 3
Disassembly and inspection of the engine head
Part 4
Engine block assembly
1. If the cylinder block has been machined, check all dimensions again. Auto repair shops make mistakes, and it's your job to make sure everything is done right. Make sure that the oil line and all its inlets are not clogged and are free of metal shavings, dirt and dust.
  - Wash the cylinder block this time with hot soapy water, and then dry again. Use a compressor to blow all dirt and dust out of the threaded holes before installing the studs.
2. Lubricate all parts thoroughly. Install new oil system and cooling system plugs. Never use silicone plugs in these areas - they may begin to decompose when in contact with oil, and pieces that come off will clog the oil line.
  - Before lubricating, clean and dry the root bearing and its seat. Lubricate all bearings and oil deflector with the lubricant recommended for this engine. Install the root bearing and oil deflector exactly in their place; these parts are very sensitive to incorrect installation.
3. Install the driveshaft and root bearing caps. Lubricate the camshaft bearings with high pressure grease and then install the camshaft. It is very important to install the bearing caps without distortion - once this is achieved, carefully tighten the bolts.
  - Rotate the crankshaft to make sure it is not rubbing. If it rotates smoothly and easily, move on to the next step.
4. Install the timing chain or belt according to the instructions. Make sure you set the synchronization marks correctly.
  - To correctly align the crankshaft and valve timing, align the marks at top dead center, and, using a special protractor, align the camshaft to synchronize the movements of the pistons and valves for the injection, compression, power stroke and exhaust phases.
  - Simply replacing bearings will not give positive results. Most engines have color coded bushings and rings based on size. You can read more about this in the instructions for the motor.
  - If you buy new bearings, make sure they match the factory ones, otherwise the connecting rods will wobble. If the bushing is very worn, you can drill it out and install a standard 25 mm bearing in its place.
  - If you do not have a good micrometer, at least use a cheap analogue, but do not assemble the engine without control measurements, otherwise mistakes will be inevitable.
  - Real professionals use micrometers and bore gauges, and also perform some calculations. Don't skip either of these two points.

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