Cultivated grape (lat. Vitis vinifera)- a representative of a species of shrubby perennial vines of the genus Grape of the Grape family, growing in areas with subtropical and temperate climates and widely cultivated in different countries of all continents. This species does not occur in nature. It originated in ancient times from wild forest grapes growing along the northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea to the southern coast of the Caspian Sea. Grapes are one of the first plants that humanity began to cultivate. Evidence of the antiquity of the culture can be found in frescoes and bas-reliefs in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs. There are written documents that convincingly indicate that grapes were cultivated by humans at least 7 thousand years ago, and even then wine was made from them. Viticulture flourished four thousand years ago in Mesopotamia - in Assyria and Babylon.

The ancient Greeks also grew grapes, actively trading wine from them with Central Asia and India. In Russia, until the beginning of the 17th century, they drank only imported wine, but in 1613 the first vineyard was founded in Astrakhan, and since then the cultivation of grapes in Russia began. Peter the Great ordered the best varieties of culture from Hungary, and the French specialists he invited were engaged in selection and winemaking. Today, grapes are as in demand as they were thousands of years ago. Its fruits are eaten fresh; raisins, juice, jam, marinades, compotes, vinegar and, of course, wine are made from them. Oil is extracted from the seeds, which is a valuable raw material for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Grape leaves are used to prepare cabbage rolls, dolma and other dishes.

Listen to the article

Landing: from the end of March to the end of May, lignified seedlings are planted, from mid-May to the end of June - green, vegetative ones. In warm areas, grapes can be planted in the fall.
Lighting: bright sunlight. The best place is a site in the middle part of the slope on the south, west or southwest side.
The soil: sandy, sandy loam, loamy, clayey, and best of all mixed, for example, a mixture of silt with clay, stones and organic matter.
Watering: in the spring, immediately after removing the cover. Consumption per bush is 4 buckets of water with a half-liter jar of ash mixed in them. The next watering is a week before flowering, the third - after flowering. When the berries begin to color, watering is stopped, but a week before sheltering, winter watering is carried out.
Feeding: Fertilizers added to the planting hole will last for 3-4 years. At the beginning of the fifth season, in early spring, complete mineral fertilizer is applied to the grapevine circle, and a week and a half before flowering - liquid organic fertilizers (a solution of chicken manure or mullein with the addition of phosphates and potassium fertilizer). At the beginning of berry ripening, the soil is fertilized with a potassium-phosphorus complex. You can also feed grapes by the leaves, both with basic fertilizers and with solutions of microelements the plant lacks.
Trimming: only in autumn.
Garter: required.
Reproduction: layering, grafting, cuttings, and much less often - seeds.
Pests: flea beetle, grape leafminer, grape cushion moth, grape mosquito, gray and black beet weevils and large alfalfa weevil, borer, fragrant wood borer, grape spider, grape felt and European red mites, grape itch, grape, biennial and bunch budworms, wasps, thrips grapes, mealybugs and Comstock, cicadas and phylloxera.
Diseases: alternaria, bacterial cancer, apoplexy, verticillium, armillariasis, white, black, acid and root rot, diplodia, various types of necrosis, fusarium, penicillosis, bacteriosis, cercosporiosis, chlorosis, escoriosis (black spot, or shoot death, or phomopsis), oidium (or powdery mildew of grapes), mildew (or downy mildew of grapes), anthracnose.

Liana grapes - description

In the south, the grapes reach a length of 30-40 meters, but in the middle zone the vine grows only up to three. The grape branch is attached to the support using tendrils. On old trunks the bark is deeply furrowed, with detachable brown bark; young shoots are reddish or yellowish. The leaves of the plant are petiolate, alternate, entire, consisting of three or five lobes. Bisexual, small flowers of a greenish tint are collected in a dense or loose panicle. The grapes begin flowering in May or June and fruiting in August or September, although some varieties do not ripen until October.

Juicy fruits with one to four seeds or no seeds at all are collected in clusters of various shapes. The color of the fruit can be yellow, green, pink, black-violet or dark red. Usually the fruits are covered with a waxy coating. Grapes are long-lived: they can live from 130 to 150 years.

Planting grapes

When to plant grapes

Grapes are planted both in spring, from late March to late June, and in autumn. From the end of March to mid-May, lignified seedlings are planted, and green, vegetative seedlings are planted later, from mid-May to the end of June. Seedlings usually go on sale in the fall, and there is no need to keep them until spring, since they can become moldy, dry out, or be eaten by mice. Therefore, planting grapes in the fall is completely justified, especially since the seedlings take root well if you plant in accordance with the requirements of agricultural technology and purchase healthy planting material: the root cut should be white, not brown, an annual, well-ripened shoot should be bright green When cut, the eyes should not fall off when touched. Also check that the seedlings are not overdried.

An important condition for the successful adaptation of seedlings in the ground is their pre-planting preparation. Before planting in the ground, the roots of the seedling are kept in clean water for 12-24 hours, the annual shoot is cut off at a height of 3-4 buds, the roots on the upper nodes are cut off, and on the lower ones they are only slightly shortened.

Grape seedlings are planted on the south, west or south-west side of buildings, since grapes need warmth and light to develop. The best place for growing grapes is considered to be the middle part of the slope, since frost can damage it in the lower part. Do not plant grapes closer than 5-6 meters from the trees.

Planting grapes in spring

If you plant grapes in black soil or clay, then the hole for it should be 80x80x80 cm in size, and if you have to grow grapes in sandy soil, then the depth of the hole should be at least a meter, and they dig it in the fall so that the soil can settle over the winter. Deep planting will allow the seedling to take root faster and protect its roots from freezing. A layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the pit, then a plastic pipe with a diameter of 5 cm is stuck into it, 10 cm from the wall of the pit. The height of the pipe should be such that it protrudes 10-15 cm above the surface.

Next, a layer of chernozem 15 cm thick is poured onto the bottom, 150 g of potassium fertilizer (potassium sulfate, potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate), 200 g of superphosphate are poured on top of it, and all this is distributed evenly over the bottom. If you are a supporter of natural fertilizers, replace mineral fertilizers with a three-liter jar of ash. A layer of fertile soil of the same thickness is again poured onto the layer of fertilizers, it is leveled, and a layer of fertilizers is again poured on top in the same quantities.

This layered cushion is completed by fertile soil. As soon as you have added the last layer, compact the pillow, pour 5-6 buckets of water into the hole and leave until spring.

In the spring, when starting to plant a seedling, place a mound of fertile soil in the center of the hole. Before planting grapes, the roots of the seedling are dipped into a mash prepared according to this recipe: a teaspoon of humate is dissolved in 10 liters of water, then enough clay is added to the solution to obtain a liquid with the consistency of store-bought sour cream.

After treating the roots with mash, the seedling is lowered into a hole, placed on a mound with its buds to the north and its root heel to the south, the roots are straightened and sprinkled with a 10 cm thick layer of nutrient soil. Then add sand to the black soil at a rate of 1:1 and fill the hole to the top of this soil mixture. Compact the soil around the seedling, cover the surface of the hole with black garden film, cutting a hole for the pipe and seedling, and for the first time put a 5-6 liter plastic bottle with a cut off neck on the seedling. Carry out further watering through the drainage hole (a buried plastic tube).

We told you about planting shortened grape seedlings. A seedling longer than 25 cm is planted in the same way, but at an angle.

Planting grapes in autumn

Autumn planting of grapes is carried out from the beginning of October until the soil freezes according to the same principle and according to the same scheme as spring planting. The only difference is that before the onset of winter, the young plant is mounded high with earth, covered with pine needles, and the tree trunk circle is covered with sawdust or peat. Do not plant grapes in a newly prepared hole; let the soil settle for at least 2-3 weeks: when the soil settles, it will not only drag the seedling along with it into the depths, but will also tear its roots.

Some gardeners argue that it is not at all necessary to dig a hole under the seedling, lay a drainage layer in it and line the bottom with a cushion of nutritious soil and fertilizers. They say that it is enough to make a hole half a meter deep in the ground with a crowbar and expand it, swinging the tool, to 10-12 cm in diameter, and then lower the seedling into the hole. It may be possible to plant grapes this way, but none of my friends dared to use this method, so I cannot recommend it to you.

If you don’t feel sorry for the planting material, take a chance and use this simplified method and write to us what you got.

Grape care

Caring for grapes in spring

Planting and caring for grapes is a difficult task, but interesting and rewarding, and over time your main advisor will be your experience. And those who are just starting to grow grapes can still take advantage of our experience and our advice.

Winter shelter from grape bushes is removed when the air temperature rises above -5 ºC. If you are afraid that frost will return, do not open the grapes completely, but install ventilation holes in the shelter. Then, when the danger has passed and the buds begin to sprout, it will be possible to remove the shelter completely. A solution of Epin in cold water protects the open vine from frost. The bushes are treated with the solution a day or two before the cold snap; the protective effect of Epin lasts up to ten days.

If there is water around the bush, scoop it out or make grooves for it to drain. To prevent water stagnation, from now on plant grapes on a slope or create a mound for them. Perform sanitary pruning of broken or frozen shoots and tie the vine to the bottom wire in a vertical or inclined position. Inspect the bushes and, if necessary, treat the grapes for detected diseases. If the plant is healthy, carry out preventive treatment against pests and diseases with Nitrafen, for which dissolve 200 g of the drug in 10 liters of water.

Spring is the best time to graft grapes, and you need to start propagating this way before the sap begins to flow. At the same time, complex fertilizers that do not contain microelements - Nitrophoska or Kemira - are added to the soil, after which the soil around the plants is dug up and watered in order to increase the temperature in the layers of the earth where the root system of the grapes is located.

In the spring, new seedlings are planted in the ground and their formation begins: unnecessary shoots are broken out several times until the necessary shoots grow to 40 cm. Excess buds and root shoots are also removed. When two pairs of leaves develop on the pagons, the young grape bushes are sprayed with a fungicide. At the beginning of May, new shoots are tied to a trellis, the bushes are fed with complex fertilizer 10 days before flowering, and as soon as inflorescences appear, their number is normalized so as not to overload the bush.

Caring for grapes in summer

Caring for grapes in the summer consists primarily of regularly pinching the vine so that it does not stretch above 170 cm. Until mid-summer, two feedings of the grapes are carried out. It is necessary to promptly remove the stepsons formed by the vine so that nutrition goes to the formed shoots and is spent on ripening the berries. In mid-July, remove any leaves that block light from reaching the fruit.

Inspect the grape bushes daily for the appearance of diseases or insect pests, and as a preventive measure, in early summer, treat the bushes with the drug Ridomil against mildew, adding a dose of Fufanon, which destroys spider mites, to the solution made according to the instructions. Both solutions are prepared separately and only then mixed. At the beginning of July, the grapes are re-treated with these preparations.

Caring for grapes in autumn

How to care for grapes after harvest? The main goal of caring for grapes in the fall is to prepare for wintering. After harvesting, the grapes, having devoted all their strength to fruiting, weaken, and therefore need to be fertilized with organic fertilizers mixed with ash, and treated against pests and pathogens that can cause serious harm to a tired plant. The most important point of care is the autumn formation of the grapes, but before pruning the grapes, wait until all the leaves have fallen from them.

However, you should not delay pruning until frost sets in, otherwise the wood will become brittle and you can seriously harm the plant.

Grape varieties with poor frost resistance should be protected from cold during the winter. Grapes grown in regions with cold winters also need protection. For this purpose, the bases of the bushes are piled high with earth, and the vines are cut so that they can be bent to the ground. The grapes are covered with spruce branches, and in case of severe frosts, an additional snowdrift is thrown over the spruce branches.

Grape processing

There is a common misconception that medications cure disease-infested areas and plants, but this is not actually the case. They can save still healthy tissues from infection, because chemicals destroy infectious agents, but do not have the ability to restore diseased plants. This is why preventive treatment of grapes is so important, eliminating the possible threat on still healthy plants.

In the spring, when the green shoots grow to 10 cm, treat the vine with three percent Bordeaux mixture, one percent colloidal sulfur or copper oxychloride - this will strengthen the plants' immunity against felt mites and the summer invasion of various fungi. Instead of the listed well-known agents, you can treat the grapes with the following preparations per 10 liters: Polychom (80 g) or Ridomil (50-60 g). You can add a drug for foliar feeding of grapes, for example, Plantafol, to the solution. Processing plants at this time is called “fifth leaf”.

The next treatment of grapes is carried out on the eve of flowering, at least on the buds, but never treat flowering grapes. For the second treatment, use a systemic fungicide, for example, Strobi. After flowering, repeat the treatment of the grapes with a systemic fungicide, and when the fruits reach the size of peas, spray the bushes with “spring” agents - Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or colloidal sulfur, as well as Polychome or Ridomil.

After this article they usually read

Extreme climate is not a hindrance to sunny berries. And getting a good grape harvest in the second or third year after planting is a completely achievable goal even for beginners. So, how to stop dreaming and start growing grapes...

First, let's decide on the two most important tasks when growing grapes - choose the place to plant the grapes and the varieties that we will plant. In principle, the grapevine will grow almost anywhere (except for continuous shade), and if you take care of it, at the very least it will bear fruit. However, proper planting in the right place will allow you to get really good harvests with much less effort. Remember that planting a vineyard with seedlings of low-quality varieties will take away your time, energy and good mood. You may be unfairly disappointed in the grapes, although the mistake will be entirely yours.

Place for planting grapes

The place for planting grapes should be sunny and protected from the wind, for example, against the south wall of a house, barn or against a fence facing south, with well-drained soil. If there is a minimum slope on the site, plant grapes on a gentle southern or southwestern slope, orienting the row in the south-north direction.

If the plot is flat and the southern walls are occupied, create a place for your grapes by building a nice solid fence 1.8-2 m high, oriented along the east-west line, in any convenient place on the plot. And you will immediately understand the secret of the monastery vineyards! You can also use dense hedges or screens made from scrap materials for this purpose, for example, from vines or reeds.

The method of planting grapes depends on the type of soil. Options are possible, but usually on sandy soils it is recommended to plant grapes in trenches, and on poorly heated loams and clays and in areas with close groundwater, it is recommended to plant them on ridges, which in the old days were called “tvorila”.

To water and fertilize grapes, I place plastic bottles with the bottom cut off between the seedlings. For table varieties, as the bushes mature, I replace them with cuttings of asbestos-cement pipes, and for “techies” (wine varieties), after three years I remove them altogether. Mature wine grapes must get their own water from the soil, and the deeper its roots, the better the quality of the wine from its berries.

Don't rush into planting seedlings for permanent residence, especially if these varieties are being tested. Let them live until the first signal brushes in the school (where it is easier to cover). Some northern winegrowers do not plant seedlings in open ground at all in the first year, but keep them there in mobile containers (for example, buckets), half buried in the ground. In the fall, containers with seedlings are moved to the basement and planted in late spring. Such seedlings begin to bear fruit earlier.

Do not plant vines spontaneously. If your grape bushes are not in “spot” planting, planning a grape plot is necessary. Group varieties by purpose, as they have different planting intervals. The distance between bushes of juice and wine varieties is 0.8 m, table varieties - at least 1.5 m, between rows - 2-2.5 m. It is advisable to check the growth strength of the selected varieties in order to correctly calculate the right location. Grouping varieties by ripening time and frost resistance will make caring for grapes easier. There will be no need to spray and cover everything to the maximum.

Do not plant grafted seedlings(from European and southern nurseries) vertically, and place them practically lying down at the maximum possible angle, otherwise there will be problems with the ripening of the vine. Gradually transfer them to your own roots.

Don't forget that grapes have the property of vertical polarity. When opening, tie the fruiting arrow on a trellis or stakes only horizontally - then all annual green shoots will grow equally. With a vertical garter, shoots grow intensively only from the upper eyes, and from the lower ones they grow weakly or not at all.

Limit watering. It is only necessary to water young vines for the first 2 years and water-recharging watering in the fall, common to all varieties. Stop watering 7-10 days before the expected flowering, as excess moisture causes color shedding and delays the ripening of the crop.

Do not use sprinkling, otherwise you will provoke diseases. Arrange drainage channels and place irrigation pipes on the side of the row no closer than 30-50 cm to the base of the bush. Grapes do not like wet leaves and wet soil. If possible, arrange a canopy over the grape bushes.

Carry out green operations sparingly and on time. The simultaneous removal of all growth points on the shoot is unacceptable: both chasing the top and pinching the stepsons. After all, there is a danger that the wintering buds of the bush will begin to grow and its potential will sharply weaken. Do not break out the stepsons completely, leave 1-2 sheets. Carry out the chasing in August, immediately after straightening the crown.

Pruning is necessary for grapes, otherwise the berries will be crushed and the bush will grow excessively. But in the year of planting, there is no pruning, except for the removal of immature green parts of the shoots in the fall. From the 3rd year, prune the shoots according to the recommendations (short or long pruning), but do not mindlessly follow the recommended total load, as your conditions - relief, soil, sum of active temperatures (SAT) - will correct it. Write down starting from which bud the fruiting shoots grow in your particular area.

Do not perform autumn pruning before natural leaf fall. or the establishment of negative night temperatures (early November). Do not prune in the spring, as the “crying” of the vine (expiration of the sap) weakens the plant.

In the north, it is more reliable to use standard-free formations of a fan or half-fan type, and not high-standard ones, including for gazebos.

All seedlings need winter shelter for the first 2-3 years. The first year the grapes grow tied to a temporary trellis. In the fall, shoots are removed and covered with two or three layers of air-dry shelter. As bedding - spruce branches or boards, on top of the seedlings - a layer of spunbond or corrugated cardboard and on top of a film (roofing felt, old linoleum). The rest will be completed by snow. Leave gaps at the ends of the shelter for ventilation.

Do not remove the cover immediately and completely in the spring. And when you remove it, leave a couple of layers of spunbond or lutrasil nearby in case of frost.

Record the timing and characteristics of planting, flowering, ripening, pruning and loading of grapes in a diary. Otherwise, the most valuable information for variety testing analysis will be forgotten and lost. And both you and the next generation of northern winegrowers, which will definitely come after you, need it so much.

Winter-hardy grape varieties

The most necessary requirements for grape varieties in the Moscow region and to the north are frost resistance, ripening time of the crop and vines. But you shouldn’t put the so-called “lack of concealment” at the forefront. This concept is relative and does not depend on the variety, but on what the minimum temperatures are in winter at your dacha. At the first stage, choose the earliest frost-resistant varieties. Later, with experience, we will understand that northern viticulture also provides us with certain bonuses, for example, in the form of long daylight hours, which partially compensates for the missing heat of the grapes. And then you can try growing later varieties.

In addition, in the north there are practically no diseases or pests of grapes. However, it is always better to prevent danger. There are so-called complex-resistant grape varieties - with high resistance to both frost and disease.

Also determine the purpose of the grapes. Why do you need it: for the table, for juice and wine, for decorating a gazebo, or just “to have it”? Today there are more than 15,000 grape varieties, so there is plenty to choose from.

I would recommend tasty and unpretentious table varieties to beginners. Agat Donskoy , Aleshenkin, Jubilee Novgorod, universal Platovsky, Crystal, ultra-early dining Beauty of Nikopol, as well as some universal Amur hybrids A.I. Potapenko and F.I. Shatilova. Those who have children should pay attention to super early and delicately sweet varieties Liepaja Amber And Early Tsirawski(breeding by G.E. Vesmiņš), as well as for the variety Beauty of the North with a high content of beneficial folic acid. From the listed grape varieties, select no more than four or five for the first planting.

How to buy grape seedlings and cuttings for rooting

The most reliable sources of planting material are clubs and forums of winegrowers, where passionate and experienced gardeners and collectors communicate, as well as MOIP and TSHA. You should not buy seedlings and cuttings at spontaneous roadside markets and at exhibitions (of course, this does not apply to the stands of famous nurseries).

1:502 1:512

Many people try to grow grapes, but not everyone succeeds. We have prepared ten tips that will guarantee you excellent results.

1:778

So, you've decided to start growing grapes. It’s good if you live in the warm south - it’s easier to grow the favorite fruits of the god of wine there. In temperate and cold climate zones, grapes are usually more troublesome than the dividends from growing. However, you can try to “deceive” the grapes and make it seem to them that they are growing in a fertile atmosphere for them. To do this, you need to follow the following recommendations.

1:1540

1. Don’t plant grapes just anywhere

The place for planting grapes should be the warmest and sunniest on your site. The southern and southwestern slope is considered optimal. A good option is to plant the plant near a stone wall or fence that will protect the vineyard on the north side. In this case, the grapes will receive additional heat from the structure, which will also protect it from gusts of northern wind and drafts. You should not plant grapes next to trees - their crowns will block the sun, and the grapes may not have enough nutrients obtained from the soil.

1:1095

Sometimes there is no other place left for grapes on the site except near the roadway. In this case, you need to take care of fencing the plant. It is best to do this with a hedge, so that trees and shrubs do not cast a shadow on the vineyard, but at the same time protect it from dust.

1:1638

1:9

1:16 1:26

European and Asian grape varieties prefer slightly alkaline soil, American varieties prefer acidic soil.

1:214

Grapes have a developed root system, which sometimes penetrates the soil several meters and reacts negatively to excess moisture in it. Therefore, groundwater should be located no closer than 2 m from the ground surface.

1:625

2. Choose varieties suitable for your region

1:1614

1:9

1:16 1:26

If you are going to grow grapes exclusively for making wine, choose special technical varieties

1:251

3. Increase the sum of active temperatures

Behind this complex design lies a simple truth - grapes love warmth, so their personal “summer” needs to be constantly extended.

1:598

Plant seedlings on southern slopes, closer to the walls of the house and fences on the south side, and place stones around them. Cover the soil around the bushes with spunbond or roofing felt to create a favorable microclimate and prevent weeds from ruining all your efforts. Form grape bushes on ridges 30-50 cm high so that the soil warms up better.

1:1258 1:1268

1:1275 1:1285

During the growing season, the optimal temperature for growing grapes is 28-32°C

1:1451 1:1464

Make a “bottle stove” - along the main ridge with grapes, at a distance of 50-60 cm from the bushes, immerse glass bottles 2/3 full with their necks down. On a sunny day, warm air will flow to the roots, further warming them up.

1:1897

4. More light!

The second most important element after heat is light. Therefore, the grape bushes are placed in a line from north to south. The distance between the bushes is selected depending on the size of the bushes planned to be formed. Typically, seedlings are planted at a distance of 1.5-2 m, but not less than 1 m, otherwise there will not be enough sun for everyone.

1:609 1:619

1:626 1:636

Grapes require at least 1,600 hours of sunshine per season.

1:744 1:757

When planting bushes from east to west, you will need a reflective screen and protection from the wind from the north side. A sheet of slate or other similar material will work as a “shield” - it will redirect light and heat towards the plantings.

1:1199

5. Don't forget about watering

You need to water the grapes carefully. The powerful root system makes this plant very sensitive to both excess and lack of moisture. Pay special attention to watering in the first year of grape ripening. To begin, make a hole 20-25 cm deep at a distance of 25-30 cm from the bush, and carefully pour the required amount of water into it. One bush will require from 5 to 15 liters of water. In the first year - 10 liters per bush, the second year - 20 liters per bush. After the third year, reduce the watering intensity to 5-8 liters. When the water is absorbed, fill the hole with soil and lightly loosen the soil around the bush to allow air to flow to the roots.

1:2357

1:9

1:16 1:26

In summer, grapes require 50 liters of water per sq.m.

1:106

6. Proper pruning

For beginners, it is best to shape grapes using the Gruyo method. When pruning in autumn, leave 3 shoots that formed this year. Cut two long, for fruiting, leaving 6-8 buds, and the third - short, for replacement, with 3 buds. After a year, also leave 3 shoots from the “short” vine, and remove the “long” ones (bearing fruit). Form the remaining three as in the beginning - two long sleeves and one short. And so every year.

1:970 1:980

1:987 1:997

Without pruning it is impossible to get a good grape harvest

1:1107

7. Grape garter

The simplest entry-level garter is at an angle of 45 degrees. In some cases, it allows you to get rid of the rationing of the bush by shoots and harvest. With a horizontal garter (parallel to the trellis), all the “eyes” on the shoot wake up and the yield is maximum. Therefore, the crop should be harvested in a timely manner.

1:1729

1:9

1:16 1:26

Grapes can be tied vertically, horizontally and at an angle of 45°

1:160

It is believed that perennial and annual vines tied at an angle of 45 degrees increase the sugar level in the berries.

1:385

8. Isn’t there a lot of harvest?

Perhaps one of the main problems of gardeners is the desire not to harm the bushes by excessive, “baring” pruning and at the same time reap the maximum harvest. They say, the more shoots I leave, the more berries I will pick. Alas, this is not true. Grapevines cannot support the weight of juicy bunches, they weaken, cease to resist disease and wither in winter. There is no universal recipe, since all varieties are different, as well as the age of the plants, growing conditions and climate. The length and number of fruiting branches must be regulated by pruning. So, with short pruning, 4 buds are left on the shoot, with medium - 5-10, with long - more than 10 buds. Medium pruning is considered optimal. As a result, a young bush has on average 30-35 eyes, a middle-aged one - 45-50, and an old one - 60-75 or more.

1:1910

1:9

1:16 1:26

In exceptional cases, it is possible to collect up to 100 kg of berries from one grape bush

1:175

9. Invisible dangers...

... which include, first of all, diseases and pests. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to avoid grape diseases. During unfavorable periods (temperatures below 15°C), preventive treatments should be carried out 1-2 times every 7-10 days. There is an interesting recipe for fungal diseases that allows you to do without “chemistry”. Fill a container with water (8-10 liters) with chopped weeds or mowed grass, add a glass of kombucha tincture and let the solution steep for several days until it becomes cloudy. Dilute it with water in a ratio of 1:7 and spray the plants during the growing season. Don’t forget about grape pests and measures to combat them.

1:1399 1:1409

1:1416 1:1426

Yellowing and unhealthy appearance of bushes sometimes indicate a deficiency of microelements

1:1602

10. Don’t get carried away with fertilizing

The desire to “help” the grapes is understandable and noble. But it is better to apply mineral and organic fertilizers in small doses and regularly than to immediately give “horse” volumes. So, in the spring, immediately after the grapes open, apply 50 g of nitrogen, 30 g of potassium and 40 g of phosphorus fertilizers under each bush (and be sure to sprinkle them with soil). 10 days before flowering, apply 40 g of nitrogen, 50 g of phosphorus and 30 g of potassium fertilizers for each bush. After this, water the grapes generously. During the period of berry ripening, apply 50 g of phosphorus and 50 g of potassium fertilizers for each bush.

1:1092 1:1102

1:1109 1:1119

It is best to feed grapes with complex fertilizers (Nitrophoska, Ammophos)

1:1281

Follow these simple tips and the “fruits of Dionysus” will delight you with the magical and unique charm of taste.

1:1486 1:1496

Have a good harvest!

Growing vineyards has become quite a popular activity among owners of private houses with garden plots. Another question is that not everyone succeeds, since growing such a crop is labor-intensive. To enjoy the fruits of the plant, you need to put in a lot of effort and pay great attention to the entire work process. A vineyard is not an easy task for beginners. However, if you follow and observe certain rules, you can achieve a fruit-bearing grape crop that annually brings rich harvests.

Essentially, a grape bush is a vine with long stems, the ends of which later turn into fruit-bearing vines. Only annual vines have the ability to bear fruit.

The grape bush is based on two systems:

1. Underground

This structure is made up of an underground trunk, which is a cutting from which a bush is subsequently formed. Its part, located at the bottom and on the sides, is given over to the development of rhizomes. The eyes located on top transform into shoots, which subsequently form a bushy base.

2. Overhead

The above ground system consists of:

Stamb. A stem growing in a strictly vertical direction.
Sleeves. Vines extending from a bushy head, which can be 35 cm or more in length.
Horns. Sleeves whose length is less than 35 cm.
Stepchildren. Shoots growing from an axillary leaf bud component located in the main bushy shoot.
Sheet. It consists of a long handle and a carved plate. The shape, size and other characteristics of the leaf are determined by the grape variety. They have an important function - the sale of nutritional components of organic origin.

The structure of a grape bush. 1 — replacement knots; 2 - shoots; 3 — thickening of the stem (head); 4 - perennial branches (sleeves); 5 and 7 - roots; 6 - underground stem (bole); 8 - fruit shoot; 9 - fruitless escape

Where to begin?

Growing a vineyard for beginners begins with choosing seedlings. Preference should be given to perennial and proven varieties. Their difference lies in their low cost, which is a significant advantage if the seedling does not take root.

Grapes are divided into:

color;
the presence of seeds;
degree of berry size;
purpose;
terms of ripening.

Grapes are also divided according to the type of flower and are: male, female and self-pollinating. Cross-pollination is not necessary for the male type, since full-fledged fruits grow. Female - to avoid lack of harvest, it is planted close to the male one. Accordingly, pollinated grapes are not the best option for beginning winegrowers.

When purchasing seedlings, you must consider:

strength degree of shoot growth;
downloadable abilities of bushy ovary;
brush throwing method.

Experts with many years of experience in growing vineyards recommend that beginning winegrowers purchase the following grape varieties:

« East". It is resistant to frost, withstanding temperatures down to -18 degrees. The fruits are purple in color and the harvest is stable.
« Laura". A sweet grape variety with white and large fruits, easy to care for.
« Gift of Zaporozhye". It also has large, weighty amber-colored fruits.
« Original". The fruits are elongated in all shades of pink.
« Codrianca". An early grape variety with dark blue fruits that ripen by the end of July. With proper care and formation, the first harvest ripens in the third year.

Stages of creating a vineyard

To make the process of creating and forming a grape culture easy and relaxed, it is important to carry out all the work in stages:

1. Planting grapes

Before planting seedlings, you should know that grapes do not like heavy soils and abundant watering. The ideal place for it is rocky slopes in direct sunlight. For this reason, the main task of beginning winegrowers is to create conditions as close as possible to natural ones. Planting is best done in spring:

seedlings are planted in pre-dug holes, having certain dimensional parameters in the transverse direction and a depth of 70-80 cm;
a 10-15 cm layer of drainage material in the form of expanded clay or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom, as well as a couple of buckets of humus mixed with soil;
The seedling is additionally covered with a layer of soil. In order to increase looseness, it is possible to add coarse sand or perlite;
The soil around the plant is pressed a little, watered and mulched.

Here's what experts say about some of the features of planting grapes: “ If you want to hang grapes on various buildings, the intention is to plant them at a distance of half a meter from the foundation of the house. If it is planned to create a vineyard, then an interval of 2.5-3 meters should be maintained between the rows, and 2 meters between the bushes.”

2. Watering and fertilizing

It is good if the grapes are watered infrequently but plentifully. The rhizome zone must have sufficient moisture for the dissolution of nutritional components and the penetration of air masses. Frequent surface watering can only provoke the appearance of weeds and the development of painful conditions. Here are some simple rules for watering grapes:

In dry times, watering is done four times a month.
Near the seedling it is possible to install pipe or bottle containers made of plastic, inserted into each other. Thus, water and nutrition supplied above the soil level will directly fertilize the root parts of the plant.
Typically 40 liters of water is used with the mulching process assumed. Mulch is a powder made from humus and dried grass. It prevents the rapid disappearance of importance by balancing temperature changes between day and night.
Starting from the month of August, the frequency of watering decreases.

The grapes are fed twice. A seedling planted in the spring does not need nutrition, but a sprout planted in the fall requires nitrogen fertilizers. To do this you need:

pour a tablespoon of ammonium nitrate and urea into 10 liters of water, then pour the solution over the bush;
Additionally, water with a couple of buckets of infused water, which will facilitate better absorption of nutritional components.

The next feeding is prepared by mixing water and a third of a bucket of mullein. The resulting solution is fermented for a week with regular stirring. One bush needs a liter of such mash, a tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizer and a bucket of water.

3. Trimming and garter

Beginning winegrowers must form and prune grape bushes on time and correctly. Typically, sleeve circuits are used for this. Sleeves can grow in vertical or horizontal directions. The most popular and simplest scheme for forming grapes for beginners is “short horns”, the essence of which is as follows:

two ovaries are left on the horns;
the weakest of the ovaries is removed.

This scheme allows you to achieve a rich harvest with exceptionally large and sweet fruits. It can be used on dessert grape varieties.

Formation should begin with pruning the mature main shoot, which is shortened above the strongest bud at the level of the lower trellis wire. Its role will be played by a 30 cm standard. The remaining parts are removed.

At the beginning of the coming season, the role of the main shoot will be the shoot growing from the maximum bud:

shoots growing on the sides are pinched on it above the fifth node, and shoots belonging to the second order are located above the first node;
before the beginning of the growing season, the vine in its upper part can be deflected horizontally in order to stimulate new branches, after which it returns to its original position;
in the spring, each horn should have 2 branches located on the sides: fruit and reserve;
on the fruitful one, a pair of ovaries are left;
the stepsons growing from the leaf axils are plucked out after the first leaves appear, which will ensure a full flow of light from the sun;
after the leaves start pouring, the formation is complemented by bushy lightening, the essence of which comes down to opening the grape bunches by getting rid of the leaves.

Over time, the bush becomes overgrown with horns, which are subsequently shortened and cut off.

4. Winter shelter

The end of the second autumn month is characterized by the fall of leaves from the grapes. Those leaves that did not have time to fall are torn off or cut off. The branches are pressed to the ground and fixed with staples, after which they are covered. Longer branches are tied.

The role of shelter can be:

Earth;
bags filled with plant waste;
covering materials, pressed down with special shields made of wood.

During the first couple of years, grape varieties that are resistant to frost should also be covered. You should know that shelter for grapes may also be needed in the spring, when there is still a possibility of a sudden drop in temperature conditions. Such manifestations are especially dangerous in regions with a hot climate, when the soil has had time to warm up and shelters have been removed. In such cases, some protective methods help well:

delaying the growing season through treatment with iron sulfate;
creating a curtain of smoke.

5. Protection from diseases

Grapes are highly susceptible to various diseases, the occurrence of which is provoked by plant pathogenic microbes.

In order to protect the vineyard from diseases, you can resort to the following measures:

choose varieties that are resistant to various types of pests;
pay increased attention to the formation and ventilation of the bush;
break out excess shoots in a timely manner;
monitor the appearance of weeds and get rid of them in time;
spray and fertilize grapes with special fungicidal solutions.

Grape (Vitis) is a plant that belongs to the flowering department, dicotyledonous class, grapevine order, grape family, grape genus. The fruits of grapes are clusters of sweet berries.

Description of grapes and photographs

A grapevine is the shoots of grapes. In the first year after germination, grape seeds produce small shoots. Grapes begin to bear fruit only 4 years after planting the seed. Such a long period is necessary because the bush is formed by gradual pruning to a minimum number of shoots.

The flowers of the grape are small, collected in a complex raceme or panicle. The grape fruit has a different shape and color due to different varieties: the colors can be light green, pinkish-violet, blue, almost black. The shape of the grapes can resemble small beads, balls or ovals.

There are seedless grape varieties (without seeds) and grape varieties with seeds. Collectively, the fruits of the plant form a cluster. The length of a bunch of grapes can be small - up to 10 cm, medium - 10-20 cm, large - over 25 cm.

Types of grapes

The genus Vitis includes 78 species of grapes. The genus itself is divided into 2 subgenera:

Evitis Planch
Muscadinia Planch

Euvitis is represented by 75 species, which, taking into account botanical, anatomical factors, as well as their distribution areas, are divided into 3 groups:

European-Asian;

It includes only 1 type of grape Vitis viniferaL, which is divided into 2 subspecies, which gave a large number of varieties.

North American;

It includes 28 types of grapes, among which the most famous are Vitis rupestris,Vitis riparia and Vitis labrusca.

East Asian.

It includes 44 poorly studied species. The most common of them is Amur grapes.

Grape varieties and photos

Grape varieties can be divided into the following groups:

Red grapes, in which the following varieties can be distinguished:
Cabernet Sauvignon;
Muscat red;
Merlot;
Pinot Noir;
Syrah (Shiraz);
Cabernet Franc;
Nebbiolo;
Zinfandel;
Pinotage.
White grapes, the main varieties of which are:
Laura (Flora);
Arcadia;
Kesha;
Chardonnay;
Muscat white;
Sauvignon Blanc;
Chenin Blanc;
Viura.
pink grapes, represented by varieties:
Original;
Taifi Pink;
Transfiguration;
Gurzufsky Pink.
Black grapes, its main varieties:
Delight Black;
Codrianka;
Maiden;
Black grapes Kishmish;
Autumn black.

History of grapes

The history of the appearance and cultivation of grapes has very ancient roots. People have known about grapes for a long time. For example, in Georgia they discovered the remains of a jug that was created almost 8 thousand years ago and on which bunches of grapes were painted. Also during the excavations they found seeds of wild grapes, which, according to scientists, are 60 million years old.

The wines of ancient Greece and ancient Rome were very popular in the 5th century BC. The Greeks loved wine and devoted themselves to the process of growing grapes with all passion.

Armenia is also considered one of the ancient states where this plant was grown. Based on the data of ancient chronicles, in the 4th century BC. grape drinks were exported to other countries.

Application of grapes

Grapes are a berry used raw, as well as in desserts and baked goods. Grape juice is used to make other juices, various drinks, jellies and wine. Due to the variety of varieties of this berry and their taste, wine and grape juice come out different in taste and color. Wine comes in rose, white or red.

Where do grapes grow?

Grapes grow almost anywhere where there is enough water and sunlight.

Climatic conditions give direction on what types of grapes to grow: wine varieties, table varieties, for juice production, for raisins, or simply for consumption.

The countries of the Mediterranean, southern Africa and the Black Sea basin have the most optimal conditions for growing grapes. There are almost no difficulties in growing grapes in these places. In the regions of Western Europe, growing grapes is more difficult, due to the shorter and colder growing season. Grapes also grow poorly in the regions of Eastern Europe; quite severe frosts in the winter season kill the grape bush.

Grape care, pests

To prevent the grapes from freezing in severe frosts, the vine is covered with earth or tied with paper and polyethylene. Grapes are propagated by the vegetative method, that is, by cuttings. The seeds are used to breed new varieties.

To improve the harvest, grapes need to be pruned. Pruning of the grapevine is done in early spring or autumn. In the spring, pruning should be done before the vine begins to release sap. In autumn, the vine is pruned after the harvest and leaves fall. In order for the grapes to produce more yield, the vines are pruned using garden shears. Two buds are left and the rest is removed. To send the vine up, you need to leave 8 to 10 buds and cut off the rest. If you prune grapes in spring , leaving 4 buds, the harvest will be good in the summer, but next year it will noticeably decrease.

Although grapes are not picky, they, like other plants, cannot be ignored. And special attention must be paid to protecting grapes from pests and infections and pruning the vine.

Grapes - beneficial properties

Grapes are a berry that has a fairly wide range of beneficial properties. A huge complex of vitamins and minerals is included in its composition, such as vitamins B, A, C, P, K, zinc, iron, copper, silicon and more than 100 useful active substances necessary to improve health.

The benefits of grapes for the body are not exaggerated, because this berry:

Increases immunity;
Reduces the likelihood of developing cancer;
Helps normalize blood pressure;
Reduces cholesterol levels;
Used to prevent pulmonary diseases;
Has a general strengthening effect on the body;
Grapeseed oil is widely used in cosmetology.

Grapes - contraindications

It is worth noting that with a large complex of beneficial properties, grapes are contraindicated in patients with diabetes mellitus, gastric and duodenal ulcers, liver cirrhosis, and acute tuberculosis. Grapes can also cause allergies in adults and children.

Experts say that dark grape varieties are healthier than light ones;
According to scientific research, in European countries where grape wine is loved, cancer statistics are lower than in other countries;
A bunch of grapes or vines can be seen on many city coats of arms.