Plastic has many advantages, but it also has one significant drawback - fragility. Plastic products can crack, break, pieces can break off, etc. If the damage is significant, then it is easier to throw away the item and buy a new one than to repair it, but minor damage can be repaired with your own hands. Restoration of plastic can be carried out using different methods, the choice of which largely depends on the type of plastic itself. On many plastic products you can find markings with the composition of the plastic and this will help in choosing a restoration technology. So, thermosets are glued using a special glue, and thermoplastics are sealed. Also, the method of repairing plastic products depends on the nature of the damage - crack, scratch, chip, etc.
When repairing plastic items, you may need the following materials and tools: solvents (such as acetone), 1000-grit sandpaper, soldering iron or plastic glue, clamps, abrasive paste, brushes or syringe, solder, plastic cleaner, brass mesh, primer and paint for plastic, sanding machine, varnish.
Repairing plastic with glue
- Before restoration begins, the plastic is treated with sanding paper to remove dirt. It is also necessary to degrease the gluing area.
- Glue is applied to the crack or seam using a brush or syringe. If necessary, parts of the plastic for gluing can be reinforced with fiberglass.
- Next, combine the parts so that they do not move and at the same time press tightly against each other. For better results, you can use a clamp.
Repairing plastic using soldering
Repairing plastic with epoxy resin
For this method you will need epoxy resin and hardener, fiberglass or sickle tape (sold in hardware stores), acetone, castor oil, a file and sanding paper, electrical tape or tape, plastic utensils and wooden sticks, primer for plastic, polyester putty, auto enamel.
- Surface preparation. The plastic product is washed in hot water with washing powder to remove dirt and grease. Damaged areas are cleaned with fine sandpaper and degreased with a solvent (acetone). If there are chips at the corners and edges, then vinyl electrical tape is glued to the outside of the product, creating a barrier for the epoxy resin. Fabric tape is not allowed, as it may stick tightly to the resin and can only be removed with sandpaper. It is not necessary to create the exact shape of the broken edge of the product, since polyester putty and a file will help to shape it in the future.
- Large fragments of the part are glued with tape from the outside, and small ones are laid out in the form of a mosaic on the tape, and then put in place.
- Preparation of epoxy resin. The jar of resin is placed in warm water for a couple of minutes so that the composition pours out of the jar more easily. The resin is poured into a plastic container, a hardener is added in a ratio of 1 part to 10 parts of resin and the composition is mixed with a wooden stick. Then add 1-3 parts of castor oil (acts as a plasticizer). If the resin turns out to be thick, you can add a little acetone to it. The mixture remains ready for gluing for 2-4 hours, so prepare as much epoxy as can be used in 2 hours. All this work must be carried out with rubber gloves, since the resin sticks tightly to your hands. And if for the first time you can wash it off with acetone for a couple of hours, then later it is very difficult to remove it.
- The resin is allowed to sit for 10-15 to remove air bubbles. Next, proceed to gluing from the inside of the product. Small cracks can be repaired as follows: resin is applied to the damaged areas and rubbed into the cracks. A piece of sickle tape or fiberglass is placed on top of the damage, covered with resin and rubbed in as well. Usually up to 2-3 layers of serpyanka are applied crosswise.
- Medium-sized and large cracks are also sealed, but there should be 4-6 layers of serpyanka, and the gluing width should be 5-10 cm. Another layer can be applied from the front side. In places with heavy loads, fiberglass fabric is used instead of sickle tape (not on the front side).
- Chips at the corners are removed as follows: pre-applied electrical tape and plastic are lubricated with epoxy resin and a patch is applied from serpyanka in several layers to the damaged area. It is difficult to completely fill the gap between the sickle tape and the electrical tape, but this deficiency can be corrected with putty.
- A small mosaic of fragments is smeared with resin, trying not to disturb the layout, and rubbed into the cracks. You can also make liquid resin, pour it in and wait until it is absorbed. Serpyanka or fiberglass is applied in patches in 3-4 layers, and it is better to do this 16-20 hours after pouring the resin. Air bubbles and voids are not desirable. It dries all day at a temperature of 18-25 degrees.
- Next, the dried products are cleaned of resin stains and burrs, the seams are also cleaned and the surface is leveled using polyester putty using a spatula. The putty takes 12 hours to dry, then you can sand the product with “zero” sandpaper.
- At the last stage, the product is primed with a composition for plastic (usually the primer comes in a can) and painted with auto enamel or other paint for plastic.
Plastic has become an almost irreplaceable material. It is found in every home and office. Household items, dishes, toys, household appliances, car parts are made from it, and it is also widely used for interior decoration. Plastic has many advantages, such as:
- ease;
- cheapness;
- ease of use;
- unpretentiousness of content;
- resistance to temperature changes.
All these qualities allowed him to gain a strong foothold in the commodity market. However, plastic is susceptible to external influences, as a result of which scratches and abrasions often appear on it, and the original gloss of the object is lost, which will certainly upset everyone. And an item such as a car headlight, if worn, significantly ruins the life of car owners. Replacing headlights is quite an expensive pleasure, and not every driver is willing to spend money on it. But in fact, the wear and tear of plastic is not a reason for frustration, because you can return your favorite item to almost its original appearance, even at home with your own hands.
Where to begin
First, let’s decide what exactly needs to be revived? After all, the processing may differ for different plastic items. Plastic polishing can be:
- mechanical;
- chemical;
- thermal.
Depending on the nature of the abrasion, if there are deep scratches, it is worth sanding before polishing. If there are no deep scratches, polishing will solve all the problems.
In fact, having high ductility and a low melting point, plastic is quite easy to both grind and polish. Therefore, if you approach this issue correctly, polishing will allow you to breathe life into even the oldest objects.
Sanding plastic
So, if you need to renew an item that has been severely damaged as a result of external influences and has many obvious scratches, prepare the material. It is necessary to clean the plastic from dirt, greasy marks, and remnants of special coatings.
It is worth noting that if the plastic is framed by another material, then it is worth covering it with masking tape so as not to scratch it while sanding the plastic.
After the material is ready for processing, take a waterproof sandpaper, initially of a fairly coarse texture, and start sanding. The main thing here is accuracy. Work the surface slowly, centimeter by centimeter, making sure that the material does not overheat. It is very good to sand plastic in soapy water. If possible, you can use a special grinder; this will significantly reduce the time spent on this stage, but in this case you should refuse water!
When you see that the deep scratches have become even, you should replace the sandpaper with a finer one and continue in the same way. It is worth changing several types of skins, moving from coarse to smaller ones, before you get the desired effect. In order not to miss any errors, after each stage, wipe the plastic with a dry cloth, so you will see all the shortcomings and be able to correct them in time.
Polishing plastic
So, we got rid of the scratches. The next stage, no less labor-intensive, will be polishing, which will make the product practically new. How to polish plastic so as not to ruin the thing with your own hands?
After grinding, the surface became smooth and matte, and when polishing, it is necessary to achieve smoothness and shine of the material. In the modern world, many car dealerships and companies offer plastic polishing. However, a special paste is used for this, which can be bought at every car store, and simple devices. The choice of polishing pastes is quite large, the first thing you should consider is the choice of paste specifically for plastic! Keep this in mind when you buy it, otherwise, due to inexperience, you may not revive the item, but completely ruin it. Contact a consultant in the store, he will certainly recommend the one that suits you.
Also, many advise using GOI paste, which is used to polish the plaques on soldiers’ belts. But this option is more suitable for large items that do not require special transparency. For small parts that require maximum polishing quality, it is still worth using specialized pastes, because they are the ones that can restore the shine and transparency of the plastic.
There are many methods of polishing - some do it with their own hands, some with a drill, some with a grinding machine.
Manual polishing of plastic
So, you have decided that you will polish the surface by hand. Option suitable for small surfaces and small parts. Let's start with the pasta mentioned above. Such a paste should be absolutely homogeneous, without any grains or impurities; to give it more gloss, you can add a little oil to it. It is better to apply it using a piece of felt or felt. Having covered the entire surface of the object, we begin to polish. Using light circular movements, with slight pressure, polish the surface for 15-20 minutes. If the part was not badly damaged, then you will like the effect. But if the wear was significant, then it will take much longer to polish.
How to polish plastic with a drill attachment.
The second method - polishing with a drill, implies the presence of this very tool in your arsenal. If you have a drill, it works, and you know how to use it, then feel free to go to the store for a special polishing attachment. Such a nozzle is quite inexpensive and buying it is not difficult. However, do not forget to tell the seller that polishing will be done using the attachment. It easily attaches to a drill and allows you to quickly achieve the desired result. Using this technology, you can polish a variety of products, and most often it is used for car headlights, which makes them transparent and smooth. In this case, it is also worth using special pastes, because it is they, together with do-it-yourself processing, that give the ideal result.
You can save some money with this option by replacing the sanding attachment with a piece of felt that is inserted into the drill chuck. Polishing with felt is very effective, but you need to secure the material well enough, otherwise the fabric will pop out and cause you a lot of inconvenience.
Polishing plastic with a polishing machine
And the third option is polishing with a polishing machine. Not every home has such a device, but it is quite a useful and convenient thing. Car enthusiasts will always find it useful for polishing plastic and headlights with their own hands. And in the house you can always easily polish any item, spending just a few minutes on it. Therefore, if your budget allows it and you are sure that this thing will be useful to you, that is, you will have to polish it often, it is worth purchasing such a machine. You can find it at any power tool store.
Before final polishing, you should walk over the plastic surface with a damp polishing attachment, this way you will get rid of any remaining dirt and prepare the surface for the final stage. At the final stage, special pastes and a special foam rubber circle should be used. Polishing the plastic. This process takes 2-3 minutes, so you are guaranteed to save time and effort.
Polishing
After each type of polishing, it is worth covering the surface with a special polish for plastic. Using any of the devices, apply a small layer of polish to the plastic and rub thoroughly with a nozzle or cloth, and then go over the surface with a tool. This small nuance will allow you to complete the process and consolidate the result. After all this, you will be satisfied with the result.
It is also worth remembering that if a plastic item is exposed to water, the layer created by the paste and polish will be washed away over time. Therefore, polish the plastic yourself as soon as you notice that the object has begun to fade. This will help keep the effect long enough.
This is how, with the help of simple devices, special tools and a little skill, you can give a second life to many plastic items. You just have to approach this issue responsibly and take into account all the necessary nuances. Polishing sometimes allows you to save quite a decent amount of money, and if you have time, even earn money. After all, now you know how to polish a necessary item and you can do it not only for yourself, but also for others.
What to do if a plastic molding or other part of an oldtimer made of plastic has lost its appearance, color, or is completely cracked and begins to collapse? Despite the strength of ABS plastic, it is highly susceptible to the negative influence of the external environment.
Plastic elements in the interior and exterior of cars began to appear in the second half of the 20th century. For example, in the American auto industry, the plastic era began to actively develop in the 1970s. From an economic point of view, this was a real discovery - the material was quite strong, durable, and inexpensive to produce. However, nothing lasts forever, and time still takes its toll. Under the influence of ultraviolet rays, plastic gradually fades in the sun, becomes faded and “worn”, and in the case of external decorative elements of the body, there is another aggressor - reagents that are sprinkled and watered on roads in the cold season. In addition, during active use, scratches and cracks will inevitably appear.
As a rule, plastic body elements are made of a material called acrylonitrile butadiene styrene, or simply ABS plastic. It is an impact-resistant resin that is resistant to moisture and oil. Interior parts are also made from this polymer, which is very popular in the automotive industry. However, the material does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation quite well, and some types of this plastic are even destroyed when exposed to sunlight. In 1998, this led to one of the largest car recalls in US history - the seat belt buckle button, made of UV-unstable ABS plastic, broke and blocked the seat belt buckle, preventing the seat belt from being inserted or, more dangerously, unbuckled. As a result, 8,800,000 vehicles were subject to recall.
It’s good if the part has retained its integrity, but has simply faded with time. In this case, you can get by with updating the top layer. For this purpose, a whole series of products has been developed that restore the color of the part and extend its service life. Some even add flexibility to parts that are lost over time, reducing the risk of breakage. The American publication Consumer Reports conducted its own research, studying the characteristics of products on the market. Depending on their characteristics (and, accordingly, cost), the drugs provide protection for parts for a period of two weeks to two years. It is worth noting that Consumer Reports analysts only considered products for black plastic elements, although choosing the required color is not difficult today. The test was carried out in a rather amusing format: the plastic body trim was divided into several parts (according to the number of products that took part in the test), treated with test compounds and... placed for 10 weeks on the roof of the building in which the Consumer Reports editorial office is actually located. Every week the panels were removed, washed, dried and put back on the roof.
Best of all, according to experts, the samples coated with ReNu Finish and Wipe New withstood the harsh test of the scorching sun and heavy rains - the parts coated with them retained a bright black color throughout the entire 70 days of the test. The disadvantage of both products is that they are sold in small bottles, and at the same time they are noticeably more expensive than their analogues. Although experts recognized the difference in results as noticeable. The remaining products (Turtle Wax Premium Grade, Meguiar's Ultimate Black, Mothers Back-to-Black) showed a strong start, but by the end of the test all the parts they treated had faded.
You can also return the plastic to its former color with a hairdryer: with careful, uniform heating, the color appears on the surface of the part. For black plastic parts, you can use a bumper ink (for example, Hi Gear or Astrochem), however, judging by the reviews, the part quickly loses its attractive appearance again.
A hair dryer can help refresh the appearance of the part, but, unfortunately, this is a temporary measure
But what to do if a plastic element of your car has received a serious crack, and we are not talking about a molding, but about an entire body panel? In this case, welding will help, but here everything is much more complicated, and it would be better to turn to specialists. The fact is that ABS plastic unites a whole family of materials, the characteristics of which depend on the proportions of the components - aconitrile, butadiene and styrene. Depending on the proportion, each type of plastic has its own melting temperature, and therefore its welding temperature. If you select too high a temperature when welding and overheat the plastic, the material will begin to foam and harden into a porous state, which will make the weld seam brittle and short-lived. It is logical to assume that if the temperature is insufficient, the plastic will melt very poorly, and a strong seam will not work. Therefore, when welding, a special hair dryer is used, on which you can manually set the exact temperature value depending on the type of plastic.
However, if thorough strength is not required from the part, then you can get by with simpler methods, which are actually sufficient: for example, use epoxy resin, glue the damaged area with fiberglass, or reinforce it with metal mesh. A simplified restoration method also includes soldering, which must be distinguished from welding. Actually, the difference lies precisely in the fact that when soldering it is extremely difficult to “get” to the desired temperature, so the seam turns out to be fragile and porous. Enough to visually hide the defect, but will not provide strength and durability. In any case, the first step is to thoroughly rinse the part using a cleaning agent designed to remove tar, salts and other dirt. To do this, you can use a special bitumen stain cleaner. There are a lot of offers on the market: AC-395, Hi Gear Buster Bug, Pingo Tar Remover, Liqui Moly Teerentferner and others. By the way, you can use the old-fashioned method - white spirit or kerosene. It would also be a good idea to go over the part with a brush. A horsehair brush is best suited for this purpose.
Finally, a very “hard case” - if the part cannot be easily restored, and it is easier to replace it than to restore it. It’s good if we are talking about a mass-produced car model, for which it is easy to find the necessary parts. But what if you have a rare specimen for which it is almost impossible to find components? Today, in addition to fiberglass, 3D printers are gaining popularity. Over the past two years, a host of initiatives have taken place at the industrial and scientific level to embrace 3D printing technology in the automotive industry. Recently, Techmer PM, a company specializing in polymer modification, even presented a full-fledged copy of the legendary Shelby Cobra, completely printed on a 3D printer. Thus, the company demonstrated that this technology can be used in restoring old cars. True, in this case the authenticity of the car is lost, which is undesirable when working with classic cars, and the technology itself is still only developing and is therefore quite an expensive pleasure. However, the increasing use of 3D printing in the automotive industry gives hope that this option will become more accessible over time.
This Shelby Cobra is completely 3D printed
The plastic parts of the interior do not have an easier time: the interior is protected from road chemicals, but suffers from the sun, large cargo and careless passengers, earning abrasions, scratches and cracks.
However, it is possible to update plastic parts and return them to their former novelty using budget funds. If the car is no longer young and has a certain historical value, with the right approach you can increase its value by $500, while spending ten times less. Although, of course, everything depends on the scale of the problem.
First, the surface of the plastic interior part must be properly cleaned. A number of American experts, in particular, American restorer and presenter Stacey David, advise using trisodium phosphate, a compound that forms the basis of various detergents and cleaning products. The next step in preparing for painting is to ensure that the surface has sufficient adhesion to the paint you are about to apply. To do this, you can use a special adhesion promoter (Stacy David recommends Duplicolor), which will provide reliable adhesion, acting as a primary primer layer before applying the base paint. If this is not done, then the new coating will fall on the old paint and will not adhere well - pretty soon the part will have to be repainted again. The first, rough layer of paint is also used as an additional binding agent. In the case of interior plastic, a very popular solution is vinyl paint (so-called liquid vinyl) such as Plasti-Kote or Duplicolor. Which of these brands is better is a controversial issue, and Western restorers have differing opinions on this issue. The paint is applied in several layers for reliable fixation. It is at this moment that the magic happens: the old part turns into a new one, just like from the factory, and all the years of its service are hidden under a layer of fresh paint. The final touch is to treat the part with a special restorer to add shine and additional protection. Armor All and Black Magic are in demand.
You can refresh a part without painting. To do this, after the washing stage, the part is dried and then treated with sandpaper, sanding all small irregularities. However, you shouldn’t get too carried away - the most “gentle” of the coarse-grained ones, 6-H, is enough, which is usually used for final sanding of soft wood. After this, the part is carefully and evenly heated with a regular hairdryer, while wiping the element with a clean rag without much pressure. After such treatment, the part will noticeably look younger, however, in case of severe abrasions, the homogeneous texture of the plastic cannot be completely restored.
If, in addition to everything else, there are still cracks on the parts, they can be dealt with using simple superglue, which is applied along the entire length of the crack. For additional rigidity and durability, you can go over the same place from the inside with a glue gun - this will guarantee that the crack will not spread. Excess dried glue is sanded with sandpaper.
The situation is somewhat different with steering wheels with a plastic rim. The varnish layer is sanded off, after which all cracks and scratches are drilled out and expanded to make it easier to fill the damaged areas with epoxy resin. Many people use a standard two-part epoxy resin at this stage, but you can use, for example, a filler called Bondo - a brand manufactured by 3M. It has almost become a household name in America; in fact, it is an automotive sanding mastic. When the mastic hardens to the state of melted cheese, the author recommends treating the pouring area with coarse 25-H sandpaper. The main thing here is not to waste time and not miss the right moment: fully hardened Bondo mastic is very difficult to sand with sandpaper.
Andrey Shuldeshov
Plastic has long become one of the most popular materials for the manufacture of various things. It is found in toys, electronics, home appliances, cars and home decor. But over time, any white plastic products begin to acquire yellow tints. The reason for this is exposure to sunlight, sudden changes in temperature, improper care and natural reactions with oxygen. In such situations, you can try to bleach the yellowed plastic to restore it to its former beauty.
The windows deserve special attention. Plastic structures used in conjunction with glass very often turn yellow under the influence of ultraviolet radiation emitted by the sun. Bright rays can illuminate them all day. If this happens regularly over several years, then the appearance of a yellow tint is inevitable. Additional factors include sudden temperature changes and improper operation.
The plastic used for window elements contains various substances that can extend its service life. Therefore, you should clean the window sill with care. You cannot use:
- Dishwashing detergents;
- Hard sponges;
- Abrasive powders;
- Acetone and similar products;
- Alkaline substances;
- Hot water.
All other means of getting rid of yellow spots can be used without fear.
How to bleach plastic
It is not so difficult to return plastic products to their original appearance. This can be done at home without outside help. You just need to stock up on all the necessary means that will be used to achieve the goal. There are several cleaning methods.
Useful video on bleaching plastic - video:
A simple but very effective remedy. Laundry soap will help renew old plastic, giving it a white tint again. This method shows maximum effectiveness when color changes are caused by exposure to fatty deposits.
How to proceed:
- Grate (½ bar).
- Pour warm water (150 ml) and stir.
- Apply the prepared solution to the problem area. Wait 30 minutes.
- Wipe with a clean sponge, wash away soap marks with clean water.
You can use this method in any case, because soap is harmless.
Special napkins
Electronics stores sell special wipes. They contain various substances that can clean computer equipment of dirt without any harm. They also help with yellowing.
How to clean:
- Every 6 hours, wipe the yellow mark with a napkin.
- Repeat daily for several days until the yellowness disappears completely.
This option is ideal for household appliances and plastic window sills.
Tooth powder with chalk
This unusual mixture allows you to return the white color to things if shades of yellow have appeared recently. You can try it for old stains, but you are unlikely to achieve significant results.
What do we have to do:
- Mix a small amount of chalk and tooth powder.
- Add water to make a thick paste.
- Spread over the entire surface of the plastic and wait until dry.
- Remove any remaining powder with a dry cloth.
The procedure can be repeated many times.
Soda and washing powder
Baking soda is very often used to clean dirty stains from various things. It also copes well with yellowness.
How to use it:
- Mix soda (1 tbsp), washing powder (1 tbsp) and water (500 ml).
- Apply liquid to plastic object. Wait 8 hours.
- Wash off all traces with a damp cloth.
An excellent option for cleaning window sills.
Vinegar
An equally effective way to restore the whiteness of plastic products is acetic acid. To do this you will need a 70% solution.
Cleaning process:
- Soak a soft cloth or large cotton pad in vinegar.
- Wipe down the plastic.
- Wash the surface of the object with water.
When using acid, wear rubber gloves and ventilate the area. It is also not recommended to use the yellow remover on sensitive plastic.
Citric acid with chlorine
A powerful yellowing agent that can be used on thin plastic products without worrying about their integrity.
How to use:
- Mix equal amounts of citric acid and chlorine.
- Apply to stains. Wait 30 minutes.
- Remove any remaining product.
This mixture can be used repeatedly until you can return the yellowed plastic to its usual appearance.
Hydrogen peroxide
This medical product is very popular and is present in every first aid kit. It helps not only to disinfect wounds, but also to tidy up the surface of yellowed plastic.
Mode of application:
- Wet a soft sponge with peroxide.
- Rub yellow stains repeatedly.
- Wash off any remaining traces of peroxide.
The product does not harm plastic. Therefore, long-term and repeated use is allowed until the desired result is obtained.
Alcohol
Alcohol has become very popular in cleaning stains. It destroys the composition of any dirt, making things clean again. It helps to whiten heavily yellowed plastic no less effectively. Its composition not only removes yellowness, but literally destroys the structure of the upper layers of the object. Therefore, it should be used with caution.
How to use alcohol:
- Soak a rag in it.
- Wipe the yellow parts of the surface.
- Remove all traces of alcohol with clean water.
This method is suitable for rough, dense plastic on household appliances and various devices.
Acetone
Another very aggressive solvent that can not only lighten the plastic, but also damage it. Before use, it is recommended to apply a small amount of acetone to an inconspicuous area of the item to check the reaction. If everything is in order, then it can be used. Nevertheless, caution will still not be superfluous.
Whitening:
- Soak a thick cotton pad with acetone.
- Wipe down the plastic.
- Wipe off any traces of product with a damp cloth.
Instead of acetone, you can use nail polish remover. Its composition is not so harmful to the coating, but shows less effectiveness.
Special products for plastic restoration
You can return white plastic objects to their original appearance using special products that are designed to restore plastic in cars. You can buy them at auto repair shops and spare parts stores.
How to use:
- Apply to the problem area following the instructions.
- Wait until dry.
Before use, be sure to read the instructions.
Bleach
Option for small items. It involves completely soaking the item in chlorine.
How to do it:
- Dilute bleach or bleach (1 tbsp) in water (1 l), adding a little soda (1 tbsp).
- Place the item to be restored into a container with liquid. Leave overnight.
- Remove and rinse the item thoroughly under cool water.
If the yellowing is very strong, soaking in pure bleach without diluting it with water is allowed.
conclusions
The methods listed should be enough to cope with the problem and get your white plastic back. If the yellowness turns out to be very old and does not respond to any remedy, then you can simply carefully cover it with paint that best matches the shade, or paint the entire product. This way you can hide all problem areas.
When using a vehicle, scratches appear on the plastic inside the car. Defects spoil the appearance of the dashboard, and a large number of such damage leads to the appearance of microcracks and destruction of the plastic. Knowing how to remove scratches on the plastic inside a car, the driver returns the parts to their original appearance and avoids more serious repairs and replacement of damaged elements.
Scratches on the plastic of a torpedo are a common occurrence. They can be caused by various objects, or even the opening and closing of doors. This is due to the fact that plastic surfaces do not have an anti-shock coating, and the slightest mechanical impact leads to a flaw. Minor defects and deep scratches on the instrument panel spoil the appearance of the car’s interior as a whole. However such damage can be corrected without dismantling the plastic elements.
Direct sunlight causes the paint on the interior parts of the car to fade. To restore such a part, it will be necessary to carry out a major overhaul of the element.
How to remove scratches on plastic inside a car
To remove scratches from plastic in a car, use several methods:
- Small defects can be eliminated using thermal treatment. To do this, use a hairdryer or lighter.
- Small damages are removed with special restorative napkins and towels.
- Deep defects are painted over with automotive wax pencils.
- Scratches are removed from glossy surfaces with polishes and abrasive gels.
- Cracks, chips and deep damage to the paintwork of the torpedo can be eliminated by overhauling the part.
Repair of corrugated surfaces is not possible. They cannot be polished or heat treated. When such elements wear out, they are replaced with new ones.
Restorative pencils and napkins
One of the simplest methods for restoring the appearance of a damaged part is to use special napkins, microfiber towels and a pencil to remove scratches from plastic. However, the use of these means to eliminate defects has a number of nuances:
- Napkins and towels make it possible to get rid of minor scratches on the plastic surface of a car dealership.
- Deep chips and scratches can be erased with a special pencil. These devices are sold in car dealerships. The advantage of this product is its effectiveness. The substance fills defects and gives the surface its original appearance. However, keep in mind that only an original pencil can cope with the problem. Its cost is high, and cheap Chinese analogues will be of little help if the car's dashboard is scratched.
- When painting, select the pencil color that is closest to the shade of the dashboard. Otherwise, after restoration, black marks remain on the surface, spoiling the appearance of the part.
Using a hair dryer
Damage to plastic can be repaired with your own hands using a hairdryer. Before heating, the treated area is cleaned of dirt and degreased. Afterwards, turn on the hairdryer at maximum power and very carefully monitor the reaction of the plastic to heating. When exposed to high temperatures, smoothing out defects, the part takes on its original appearance.
If there is no reaction to heating with a hairdryer, then you need to increase the power of the device and bring it closer to the surface being treated. Deep damage cannot be eliminated in this way. Excessive heating will lead to deformation of the plastic element and deteriorate the appearance of the part.
Polishes and gels
After removing scratches on the plastic, the part needs to be polished. This is important when repairing glossy interior elements. The products will return the surfaces to their original appearance. For polishing, it is recommended to use abrasive sandpaper or a grinding machine. Using an electric tool, you cannot remove defects at maximum speed of the grinding wheel. The plastic will heat up and warp, leading to expensive repairs.
Also, special attention should be paid to the product used to restore the damaged area. To protect the material from deformation or destruction, use a special abrasive paste and polish for plastic.
Elimination of defects is carried out according to the following algorithm: before polishing, the surface is washed, dried and degreased. Next, apply a small amount of the product and polish the part until a glossy shine appears.
Polishing removes small scratches from a glossy surface.
Repairing lighter damage
Using open fire, remove scratches from plastic. To do this, a lighter is brought to the defect and the flame is passed over the entire area of the damage. After the surface treated in this way has completely cooled, remove the soot with a swab soaked in alcohol. If everything is done correctly, then after this procedure, the plastic is restored.
Be careful when using a lighter. Otherwise, an open fire will cause damage to the trim and fire of the vehicle.
Overhaul of plastic
It is not always possible to repair the plastic in the car interior using simple methods. Chips, cracks, areas of faded paint - all this requires a major overhaul of the plastic elements of the car dashboard. Restoration is performed in the following way:
- The damaged part is dismantled.
- Thoroughly cleaned of dirt, degreased and polished.
- Cracks and chips are covered with a primer.
- The surface is polished.
- Apply paint and allow the element to dry.
- Cover with several layers of varnish.
- Polish until a glossy shine appears.
How to properly remove scratches from gloss
Transparent plastic is used in the design of many interior elements. The disadvantage of this material is the rapid appearance of defects: small scratches and chips, after several years of operation of the car, literally cover the entire surface of the interior element. Removing scratches from car interior plastic has a number of nuances:
- Before carrying out restoration, you need to wet clean the car interior. It is necessary to ensure that there is no dust. Otherwise, new scratches may appear on the surface during polishing.
- The area to be treated will need to be thoroughly washed and degreased.
- To get rid of scratches, use a sanding machine.
- To polish the damaged area, it is recommended to use products that are designed for polishing plastic. These are special polishes and abrasive pastes. It is important to correctly calculate the amount of substance applied.
Abrasive pastes, gels and polishes that are intended for use cannot be used when restoring the interior. They will ruin the part being restored.
Numerous defects, scratches, chips and cracks spoil the appearance of the car dashboard. Damage of this kind can be easily repaired on your own. To ensure that the repair process is effective and does not lead to replacement of the part, take into account the nuances of restoring the plastic elements of the interior.
