So that's it. The problem was the following: when driving, if you quickly put it in 3rd gear, you can hear (and feel on the handle) a noticeable crunch. If you stick it in slowly and carefully, there will be no crunching. Moreover, the harder you push the lever, the stronger the crunch. And the slower, the greater the likelihood of perfect gear engagement. The diagnosis is simple, the synchronizer has worn out. To replace, you need to take off both boxes and disassemble. In one go I will replace the noisy shaft bearing.
Removing the transfer case, as it turned out, is not at all difficult, even without a hole, unscrew the bolts, pull and it falls,
you need to put something soft on the floor because it’s impossible to hold 40 kg in a twisted state under the car
It’s even easier to remove the box because it hangs on chains and can be carefully lowered
I will lower the transfer case to 3.3 but later, so I took it apart to see the number of splines on the shaft, since there are options for 12 and 18 splines, a lowering kit is made for the option with 18 splines
Pulling the shaft bearing together is a test of nerves. At the beginning I tried to weld something
then to the bearing and tighten it, but the welding broke. My recipe is this: take two long bolts, file the heads with a grinder on the sides to make an oval, break the cage in the bearing, put the boots in the bearing and wedge them. then press it out with a puller
I haven’t removed the stars on the shaft in the box itself yet, I just bought a three-legged puller today, so to be continued, criticism and advice are very welcome since I am the first to repair the box myself. No repair experience yet.
UAZ Patriot 2008, petrol engine 2.7 l., 128 l. p., all-wheel drive, manual transmission - do it yourself
Cars for sale
UAZ Patriot, 2013
UAZ Patriot, 2015
UAZ Patriot, 2013
UAZ Patriot, 2017
Comments 41
Hello, can you tell me how to remove the input shaft without removing the secondary shaft gear? Doesn't it rest against the gear?
With the help of this puller I was only able to remove the bearing from the input shaft. For about 4 hours I was “handling” it with a sledgehammer in a suspended state and nothing, it came apart by a centimeter and that’s it. I bought a bearing for the input shaft, now all I have to do is find the front bearing for the main shaft and you can put everything back in place.
Russian ingenuity is our EVERYTHING.
Good day. The problem is this: the gears began to engage with a crunch. from second to third with a crunch, from third to second with a crunch, from second to first it turns on almost to a complete stop, when you stand in the gear position they all turn on without a crunch, what is the reason? I replaced the clutch kit with a STARKO one with a double damper, the gears also engage with a crunch, in the mornings while it’s cold and quietly as it warms up the clutch starts to rumble louder than on the old one, you press the clutch pedal and quietly release the rumble again. Where to dig for the clutch or gearbox? Hunter ZMZ 514
We don’t do abortions over the Internet
Hello, good people... my problem is this: the Diamonds gearbox on the UAZ Patriot, 2008, started making noise + buzzing. I decided to disassemble and change the bearings. Replaced four main bearings. After assembling the gearbox, the noise + hum disappeared... but a knock appeared... the gearbox knocks at idle and in all gears... but when the clutch is pressed, the knock disappears and I installed new clutch release and disc... please tell me what could be wrong? Thank you in advance
what was the reason for the knocking?
On my new one too. I switch a little slower and that’s it
maybe that's how it should be?
I have an escape 166 thousand kopecks, I climbed everywhere except the gearbox, I use it mercilessly, without hesitation, sometimes it also crunches, in any gear, but this is due to hasty shifting and under-depressing the pedal. And until the stake stands up, I won’t climb, because... The gearbox is the most accurate and with minimal tolerances unit of all that is in the car.
What a shame... Is this on a new car? How long is the mileage?
she's not new)) 72
oh how. Questions like this, do everything at once so that you don’t have to climb again later?
Exactly. I regretted that I didn’t change everything at once and skimped on the price. Now I'm waiting for spring to remove the box again and bring it to mind.
Congratulations on clearing the box. The procedure is painfully familiar and hectic! The bearing you worked so hard to remove is the input shaft bearing. It was possible not to touch it, but simply remove the bell, and the bearing itself would remain on the shaft. Now the next thing is, if you got there, then change all 4 bearings at once, namely on the input shaft, which you removed at the very beginning. A bearing-oil seal between the box and the transfer case and two cone bearings of the industrial shaft. And change the synchronization of 1-2 and 3-4 gears. If you have any questions, ask.
Greetings to all, where did you buy spare parts for the synchronizer box and gears?
I took a normal flight from a guy here vk.com/kppdaymos
Congratulations on clearing the box. The procedure is painfully familiar and hectic! The bearing you worked so hard to remove is the input shaft bearing. It was possible not to touch it, but simply remove the bell, and the bearing itself would remain on the shaft. Now the next thing is, if you got there, then change all 4 bearings at once, namely on the input shaft, which you removed at the very beginning. A bearing-oil seal between the box and the transfer case and two cone bearings of the industrial shaft. And change the synchronization of 1-2 and 3-4 gears. If you have any questions, ask.
Are there any old synchronizations left by chance? Do you have sizes for bronze rings?
So the checkpoint is on the workbench. Where to begin? Now, I would start by screwing this gearbox back and would never mess with it. Kind of a joke. However, in every joke...
You still need to start by studying the only existing manual for repairing a daimos: tynts (third-party resource).
After studying this crooked manual, and it is really crooked, you will begin to develop a vague feeling that you cannot yet characterize in any way. Later - yes. But not now. Now everything is rosy...
Unscrew the gear shift rod cover. Please note that all joints are sealed with a fairly high-quality sealant, and the screws sit on thread sealant. Therefore, the process of separating fitability from non-fitness is difficult in most cases.
Along the way, we inspect the rubber boot of the switch rod.
Then, using a 24 mm spanner, unscrew the reverse gear sensor.
Please note that it is sealed with the body with a copper washer. According to science, they are disposable and when the sensor is installed in place, the skewer is replaced with a new one. Otherwise, oil leakage may occur.
We return to the gear shift rod box. We unscrew this bolt that closes the technological hole. It serves for unstitching the stem.
To my shame, I must admit that until that moment I did not yet have a normal set of knockouts. And instead of knockouts, I used old, unnecessary, unattractive and, for whatever reason known only to me, faulty drills of the appropriate size.
This is how we knock out the pin from the rod.
We also pay attention to the thread sealant and copper washer.
Now, unscrew the three bolt covers from the wells of the speed derailleur rod clamp. There's also thread sealant in there.
We stock up on a small magnet and use it to pull out the springs and locking balls. As an alternative, turn the gearbox housing over with the holes facing down and tap lightly...
That's all for now with the rear part of the gearbox. Let's move on to the bell.
Unscrew the front cover. I entrusted this matter to the younger generation 😉
When the lid is unscrewed, this does not mean that it can be removed easily. Because the sealant glued it quite well. It is extremely convenient to use a long flat screwdriver to pick up the edge of the cover, use the starter hole in the bell to pry off the cover. At the same time, we evaluate the condition of the seal in the cover.
Now a small Kama Sutra with removing the retaining rings. I don’t know about others, but they were very painful for me... And this was despite the presence of a normal tool for removing them...
In general, after the retaining ring is removed from the input shaft in the area of the front support bearing, the manual says the following phrase: “Remove the bearing from the shaft.”
This is the first place where the breaking of the namba van pattern begins. Because the bearing:
- level and flush
- closed type
- It fits not just tightly, but VERY tightly...
In general, you don't really need to do the "Remove the Bearing" step at this point. Take my word for it. Although... If you have a tendency towards masochism, then by all means try it. I guarantee the result!
I came to the conclusion that it is necessary to halve the gearbox housings without removing the bearing.
We unscrew a lot of bolts around the perimeter of the joint. Please note that in the box of the speed switch rod, above the rod, there is another screw!
It should also be said that the halves sit very firmly on the guide bushings. There are only two of them, but it still won’t be possible to separate the halves easily. Plus, there's a strong sealant, damn it. In general, when you have a gap, carefully enlarge it with improvised means until you stop. And you will resist! The gap will be somewhere between a centimeter and a half in size.
From this moment on, there is a break in the Namba Tu pattern.
The bottom line is that the front support bearing sits VERY tightly on the input shaft. And, of course, it makes it difficult to halve the gearbox housing.
The essence of the process is clear from the photograph. We hang it out as best we can in our own conditions. Take a piece of soft material such as copper/lumin/duralumin. This piece will be a spacer between the end of the input shaft and the popularly loved universal key, “Earth-to-Earth” class “Sledgehammer” type...
We place a gasket made of soft material on the end of the input shaft. Using the mantra “How great is my love for the Spanish Chinese engineers,” the memories of a certain mother and the reciprocating movements of a special “Sledgehammer” type key, we separate the bell with the support bearing from the input shaft.
It is after this stage that the bearing can be easily removed by hand from its seat in the bell, which will end up on the floor 😉
Let's return to the fillet...
To remove the rear gearbox housing, it is necessary to remove the gear shift pusher rod. To do this, it needs to be unpinned. Attention! There are two short pins, and not one long one like on the gear shift forks.
Unscrew the second bolt securing the reverse gear axis.
And remove the retaining rings from the secondary shaft shank. Remove the locking half-moons and remove the locking ring from the dual support bearing of the secondary shaft.
At this point, a break in pattern number sri will await you...
Because the manual says that you need to unpin the gearshift forks and shifter pushers. How this is supposed to be done when a good half of the pins are in the depths of the crankcase is not clear. But, if we remember that Chinese electricity has still not been studied at all, then it’s scary to even think about Chinese mechanics... There’s Qigong, Shao-lin and all that...
In general, we tie all the offal as is and hang it again. We try to adjust the suspension so that the belts do not put pressure on the 3rd-4th gear shift clutch and the axis of the shafts is as perpendicular to the plane of the mother earth as possible. If you move the clutch more than usual, you are guaranteed an amazing adventure in finding three ejected synchronizer balls. Again, for masochists, this is the next stage in delivering unforgettable pleasure to themselves...
Next we need to heat the crankcase around the dual bearing. I used an industrial hair dryer for this. The temperature is 500 degrees, for five to ten minutes. So the crankcase would heat up thoroughly. Then, using a reciprocating movement of a rubber mallet of the “Narcosis” class, we gift the crankcase body. The duration of the execution does not depend on anything and is purely random. Tested by assembling/disassembling the unit three times (later I’ll tell you why)…
Attention! In the gearbox housing, in the area of the partitions of the rod wells, there are two plungers. Be careful not to lose them when turning the crankcase over. You won't be able to find them like this!
If your balls did not eject from the synchro, you are lucky. At this stage, you can pour yourself 100 grams of good cognac and postpone further work until “Morning, evenings are wiser”...
Take my word for it 😉
My dear readers!
Please don’t ask me questions about repairing your gearbox! Firstly, I cannot and do not have the right to give advice without seeing the unit with my own eyes and without holding it with my own hands. Secondly, this is approximately how to make a diagnosis over the phone. No tests...
This blog post is for informational purposes only. Its purpose is to show you clearly the guts and general methods of working with this checkpoint. No more.
26 thoughts on “UAZ Patriot. Dismantling the Dymos gearbox. ”
Please tell me, does this Korean crap have its own transfer case or can I just shove a simple UAZ one, the guys just gave me a loin and I don’t know if I should bother or not
At this checkpoint, both old-style RKs (UAZ) and new ones, also Daimos, were used.
Hello. when seating the secondary shaft of the shaft and rods with forks in place, one of the rods does not sit completely. Apparently the locking pin for engaging two speeds at once is in the way. What should I do? (I didn’t undo the third gear fork).
Ilya, hello. If you yourself don’t see or are not sure of the reason (“apparently the pin is in the way”), then how can I answer you? On the Internet. Without seeing the unit itself.
Hello. In my box there was a noise like a tractor. I checked the oil and there was no oil there. Then they opened it and where the gears of the 1st shaft were, it was like a knife. And the block gear is exactly the one that connects to the first one, which was covered on one side. And we found a box with the whole body of a burnt-out UAZ that had only been driving for 2 months from the showroom. And they opened this box and took out the 1st shaft and gear block. Everything was assembled on site and the box was placed. 1) The sound there has decreased by 80%. 2) the speed on the 4th is inserted tightly)) 3) it is inserted into the rear spruce and when you release the revolution it immediately throws out. I have such a problem. Do you have a video of a complete overhaul or any advice?
From the video, just what I posted in the reports. But I can’t give advice. Because I didn’t twist your box with my hands 😉
Thank you for a very good report, the conclusion when reading is clear... If the daimos box breaks, buy a new box)))
And so I was looking for where there are the ones that can be brought under the hood. I found it only from you, thank you.
Hello, where can I buy a 3.4 gear shift fork from Daimos? Patriot 2005.
REPAIR of UAZ gearboxes of all models (ADS, DAIMOS)
manual gearbox
installation | sale | replacement of UAZ manual transmission of all modifications
clutch replacement
Moscow city
Artem 8 965 126 13 83 Vadim 8 925 675 78 75
Disassembly and troubleshooting of your gearbox is carried out within 2 hours in your presence.
The cost of disassembly and assembly is 5,000 rubles. + spare parts due to wear.
Removing and installing the box on a car /during repairs/ – 7,000 rubles.
Warranty 3 months or 60,000 km. mileage
New UAZ gearbox
We have a fund restored UAZ gearboxes. If the car owner wishes, we can replace the faulty one with ours from the exchange fund, which is often more economically feasible.
Prices for additional work when repairing a UAZ gearbox:
Job title
Sum
Comprehensive troubleshooting (disassembly and assembly without repair)
Oil change and diagnostics
Replacing the clutch (as a separate job)
Removing and installing a manual gearbox as a separate job - without repair
Replacing the clutch with the gearbox removed
An example of assembly and disassembly of a UAZ ADS gearbox
The owner of the car noticed a harsh noise that appeared when driving on the highway in fifth gear. During disassembly, the following was discovered and must be replaced: a damaged intermediate shaft, a set of bearings, a fifth gear fork, oil seals, and an inter-body gasket. Example in the photos below:
The second example is about the UAZ ADS gearbox - the owner also complained about a harsh noise when driving in fifth gear. When disassembling the gearbox, a broken fifth gear tooth was discovered (the intermediate shaft is intact). Plus, the bearing shaft bearings and oil seals must be replaced. We wash the inside of the housing with nefras (industrial solvent) to remove steel chips and old oil.
UAZ gearbox diagram
gearbox assembly
UAZ gearbox housing
UAZ transmission gears
UAZ gear selector forks
UAZ gearbox cover
UAZ gearbox transfer case assembled
UAZ transfer gearbox gears
UAZ transfer case shaft gear
UAZ transfer case gear selection
Gearbox UAZ 3151 (after refurbishment).
Replacement of bearings and gearbox seals.
Specifics of UAZ gearboxes: typical faults and repair features
Functional differences between ADS and Dymos gearboxes
Technical features of the UAZ BUKHANKA gearbox
Advantages and features of the UAZ FERMER gearbox
Specifics of the transfer case of modern UAZ modifications
Photo report of disassembly and repair of UAZ HUNTER gearbox
The car came in for repairs due to loud noise coming from the manual transmission. As a result of disassembling the box, a defect in the bearings on the gearbox shafts was revealed. We change bearings and gearbox seals. We wash the gearbox housing with nefras to remove inclusions of steel chips and old oil. Photos below.
1. Remove the clutch release bearing fork 5 and the bearing
2. Remove the cover of the gear shift mechanism and lever assembly.
3. Remove the reverse lamp switch.
4. Remove the rod head pin using a thin cylindrical tool.
Unscrew bolt 1 of the reverse intermediate gear axis on the gearbox housing.
5. Remove the flange bolts and use a magnet to remove the springs and plungers.
6. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the input shaft bearing cover.
7. Remove bearing 1 of the input shaft, having first removed the spring retaining ring 2.
8. Remove the front gearbox housing by unscrewing the mounting bolts (shown by arrows)
9. Remove the retaining ring 4 of the secondary shaft bearing, retaining ring 1, protective ring 2, and two retaining half-rings 3
10. Unscrew bolt 1 of the reverse intermediate gear axle on the rear gearbox housing and remove the axle.
11. Using a thin cylindrical tool, press down the shift fork locking pins.
Remove the shift rods.
Attention! Do not reuse locking pins.
12. To remove the secondary shaft assembly, intermediate shaft assembly and rods from the rear gearbox housing, heat the rear wall of the housing in the area of the double bearing using an electric heater.
Note:
To simplify dismantling, secure the output shaft, intermediate shaft and gear shift shaft with a rope or belt and hang it up;
Heat the rear wall of the crankcase at 400°C for about 4 minutes.
Attention! To avoid damaging the bearing, do not use a press or hammer to remove it.
13. After heating, dismantle the shafts by lightly hitting the rear housing with a rubber hammer
Problem: when driving, if you quickly put it in 3rd gear, you can hear (and feel on the handle) a noticeable crunch. If you stick it in slowly and carefully, there will be no crunching. Moreover, the harder you push the lever, the stronger the crunch. And the slower, the greater the likelihood of perfect gear engagement.
Diagnosis: The synchronizer has worn out. To replace, you need to take off both boxes and disassemble.
(I’ll replace the noisy shaft bearing in one go)
for support we use a wide cable and hoist
Removing the transfer case, as it turned out, is not at all difficult, even without a hole, unscrew the bolts, pull and it falls,
you need to put something soft on the floor because it’s impossible to hold 40 kg in a twisted state under the car
It’s even easier to remove the box because it hangs on chains and can be carefully lowered
box dymos
Razdatka UAZ
I will lower the transfer case to 3.3 but later, so I took it apart to see the number of splines on the shaft, since there are options for 12 and 18 splines, a lowering kit is made for the option with 18 splines
Pulling the shaft bearing together is a test of nerves. At the beginning I tried to weld something
then to the bearing and tighten it, but the welding broke. My recipe is this: take two long bolts, file the heads with a grinder on the sides to make an oval, break the cage in the bearing, put the boots in the bearing and wedge them. then press it out with a puller
.jpg)
I haven’t removed the stars on the shaft in the box itself yet, I just bought a three-legged puller today, so to be continued, criticism and advice are very welcome since I am the first to repair the box myself. No repair experience yet.
We continue the repair, to press out the gears I used a three-legged puller (bought for 600 rubles). I sorted everything out in about half an hour, it turned out to be simple
4th gear synchronizer, thickness 3mm exactly
3rd gear synchronizer, apparently worn 2.85 mm
perhaps this 0.15 is enough for a bad inclusion
The 2nd and 3rd gear synchronizer needs to be replaced. To my surprise, this detail was not found in our city. I went online and I know of only 3 spare parts stores that 100% don’t sell uazobaza.ru, bazashop.ru and 3160.ru. They don’t have these parts! I searched with Yandex, (I can do this) those stores that it shows did not inspire confidence, simply the phone number and address were not indicated, I’m afraid of scammers. Here's an example: www.uazlyuks.ru/index.php…t/product&product_id=1630 The site was actually made in the ukoz designer, I can make one myself in a day.
In short, the question is simple: who ordered spare parts online and in which store? Give me the link, and I’ll look for the synchronization there myself. There have already been incidents. Thank you in advance.
The UAZ Patriot 3163 and UAZ Hunter are equipped with a five-speed manual South Korean Daimos (DYMOS) gearbox. The gearbox is highly reliable and has a long service life. The service life of the Daimos gearbox with proper maintenance is about 300,000 km. The gearbox housing is “sharpened” for mounting on ZMZ-405, ZMZ-406, ZMZ-409 and ZMZ-514 diesel engines. As for repairing the gearbox, it is quite difficult to carry out due to the lack of spare parts. The positive aspects of using the DYMOS gearbox include the clear movement of the gear shift knob, the classic algorithm, minimal physical effort of gear shifting and high selectivity.
The gear ratios of the box are quite well balanced. The first gear of the gearbox is the most “traction”. DYMOS copes with its main direct tasks “excellently”. The noise of the gearbox is significantly reduced compared to the Arzamasovskaya one. Due to the presence of 5th gear, comfort when driving on the highway has increased. Different oils are used in the gearbox and transfer case. Do not use oils in the gearbox that are not recommended by the manufacturer.
Dymos gearbox ratios
| I Transfer | II Transfer | III Transfer | VI Transfer | V Transfer | R Transfer |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4,155 | 2,265 | 1,428 | 1,00 | 0,88 | 3,827 |
Daimos gearbox device
1 - front gearbox housing; 2 - input shaft bearing cover; 3 - primary shaft; 4 - fastening bolt; 5 - rear input shaft bearing; 6 - ring gear; 7 - double-cone synchronizer for 3rd and 4th gears; 8 – hub and synchronizer clutch for 3rd and 4th gears; 9 - clamp; 10 - ball bearing; 11 - gear 3rd gear; 12 - neutral position indicator switch; 13 - control mechanism head bolt; 14 - head of the control mechanism rod; 15 - control lever assembly; 16 - control shaft assembly; 17 - reverse gear fuse bracket assembly; 18 - reverse gear of the secondary shaft; 19 - double-cone reverse synchronizer; 20 - sealing cover; 21 - 5th gear synchronizer ring; 22 - clutch and hub of the 5th gear and reverse synchronizer; 23 - gear 5 of the secondary shaft transmission; 24 - rear gearbox housing; 25 - snap ring of the rear bearing of the secondary shaft; 26 - adjusting ring of the input shaft bearing cover; 27 - adjusting ring for the intermediate shaft bearing; 28 - front tapered roller bearing of the intermediate shaft; 29 - gear 2 of the secondary shaft; 30 - three-cone synchronizer for 1st and 2nd gears; 31 - hub and synchronizer clutch for 1st and 2nd gears; 32 - gear 1 of the secondary shaft transmission; 33 - reverse intermediate gear shaft; 34 - reverse intermediate gear; 35 - flange bolt for fastening the reverse intermediate gear axis; 36 - intermediate shaft; 37 - rear tapered roller bearing of the intermediate shaft; 38 - double angular contact ball bearing of the secondary shaft; 39 - bearing seal; 40 – protective ring; 41 - retaining half ring; 42 - retaining ring; 43 - secondary shaft
1 - primary shaft; 2 - gear ring of the input shaft; 3 - front needle bearing of the secondary shaft; 4 – inner ring of the 4th gear synchronizer; 5 - blocking ring of the 4th gear double-cone synchronizer; 6 – retaining ring of the synchronizer hub for 3rd and 4th gears; 7 - outer ring of the 4th gear synchronizer; 8 - clutch for shifting 3rd and 4th gears; 9 - synchronizer hub for 3rd and 4th gears; 10 - synchronizer block; 11 – synchronizer spring; 12 - synchronizer block ball; 13 - outer ring of the 3rd gear synchronizer; 14 – double-cone blocking ring for 3rd gear synchronizer; 15 - inner ring of the 3rd gear synchronizer; 16 - ring gear of 3rd gear; 17 - gear 3rd gear; 18 - needle bearing of 3rd gear gear; 19 - 3rd gear bearing bushing; 20 – 2nd gear needle bearing; 21 - gear 2nd gear; 22 - ring gear 2nd gear; 23 - inner ring of the 2nd gear synchronizer; 24 - blocking ring of the three-cone synchronizer for 2nd gear; 25 - outer ring of the 2nd gear synchronizer; 26 – retaining ring of the synchronizer hub of 1st and 2nd gears; 27 - clutch for shifting 1st and 2nd gears; 28 – synchronizer hub for 1st and 2nd gears; 29 - outer ring of the 1st gear synchronizer; 30 - blocking ring of the three-cone synchronizer of 1st gear; 31 - inner ring of the 1st gear synchronizer; 32 - 1st gear gear; 33 – 1st gear needle bearing; 34 - secondary shaft; 35 - reverse gear needle bearing; 36 - reverse gear; 37 - inner ring of reverse synchronizer; 38 - double-cone locking ring for reverse synchronizer; 39 - reverse synchronizer outer ring; 40 - synchronizer hub for reverse and 5th gear; 41 - synchronizer block (5th gear/reverse); 42 - ball of cracker; 43 - synchronizer clutch for reverse and 5th gear; 44 - retaining ring of the reverse and 5th gear synchronizer hub; 45 - outer ring of the 5th gear synchronizer; 46 - 5th gear ring gear; 47 - 5th gear gear; 48 - 5th gear needle bearing; 49 - thrust washer; 50 - rear double ball bearing; 51 - retaining ring; 52 – retaining half ring; 53 - protective ring; 54 - snap ring
READ ALSO ON THE SITEWeak valve springs in an engine can cause a variety of reliability and performance problems. Each valve in the cylinder head has at least one spring. The valve spring puts pressure on the valve holder to keep the valve... If some devices on your VAZ 2112 car have stopped working, fuses or relays may be to blame. At the very least, the first thing you need to do is check them, and then draw some conclusions regarding the malfunctions. Correct diagnosis... Distributorless ignition systems have been around for almost a decade and have eliminated much of the maintenance that used to be associated with the ignition system. No distributor means there is no cap or rotor to replace, and no... |
The UAZ Patriot manual transmission is designed to transmit torque and change the speed of the vehicle. The transmission design includes an additional transfer gearbox with a reduction gear, distributing the power flow between the drive axles. Depending on the year of manufacture of the car, a domestically produced dispensing unit or a unit developed by the Korean company Dymos is used.
The Patriot uses a 5-speed gearbox equipped with synchronizers for forward gears. The unit is connected to the engine using a clutch housing; a single-disc dry friction clutch with a hydraulic drive is used to transmit torque from the engine. The selection of speeds is carried out by a lever mounted on the transmission housing cover; the handle is brought out through a hole in the floor of the body into the passenger compartment. At the end of the lever there is a plastic tip on which a speed selection diagram is printed.
On cars assembled before 2005, there are 2 types of boxes:
- unit assembled in Ulyanovsk (overdrive gear ratio 0.82);
- Automatic transmission unit developed by the Arzamas Machine-Building Plant (article 31606-1700010, overdrive gear ratio 0.86).
Ulyanovsk boxes were used on the machines of the first batches, then the plant began to use the Arzamas unit, characterized by an original gear switching scheme. To engage reverse gear, you must move the lever to the position opposite the 1st forward speed, and the 4th gear for forward movement is moved to the place of the standard reverse speed placement.
This arrangement ensures accelerated switching of the direction of movement when overcoming off-road conditions using the rocking method. The safety interlock has been removed from the reverse speed activation circuit, which reduces the time required to select the direction of movement. The transmission was not highly reliable and efficient, which is why it was replaced by the Korean Daimos gearbox in 2005.
A brief sequence of disassembling the automatic transmission unit from the UAZ Patriot:
- Remove the box from the car, and then rinse or wipe the crankcase from dust and oil stains.
- Remove the gear selector mechanism from the side of the housing, and then unscrew the plug with the overdrive spring retainer.
- Remove the rings holding the rear bearing of the secondary shaft from the seat. Unscrew the 5th speed housing mounting bolts to allow the axle support to be removed.
- Remove the left-hand threaded bolt holding the rear intermediate shaft support, and then remove the overdrive gear along with the needle bearing.
- Unscrew the overspeed fork fixing screw to remove the drive rod and clutch.
- Using a puller, remove the secondary shaft bearing together with the 5th stage driven gear. The puller is also used to remove the overspeed synchronizer hub from the intermediate axle.
- Remove the front cover and remove the snap ring holding the input shaft bearing.
- Remove the intermediate shaft bearing caps, then remove the axle and reverse gear. To dismantle the gear, a bolt is inserted into a threaded hole drilled in the end plane of the shaft.
- Using a screw puller, remove the bearings mounted on the input and intermediate shafts.
- Push the intermediate shaft forward to remove the front roller bearing.
- Remove the primary and secondary shaft assemblies from the gearbox housing. Then remove the retaining ring, which will allow you to remove the intermediate axle.
Used since 2005, the Dymos gearbox is equipped with 3 shafts with gears, some of which move along splines to change gears. There is an oil bath in the lower part of the housing; lubricant is supplied to the rubbing parts due to the rotation of gears that scatter the liquid throughout the crankcase. The box has an overdrive 5th speed with a gear ratio of 0.88, which allows you to reduce engine speed and fuel consumption when driving on the highway.
The box is distinguished by the use of a classic step selection scheme. To engage reverse gear, the fuse must be turned off. The unit has increased shift clarity, but does not tolerate loads well (for example, during long-term driving in severe off-road conditions). An additional advantage of the gearbox is reduced noise during operation, an improvement achieved through additional mechanical processing of the tooth surfaces.
The disadvantages of the unit include destruction of the rear oil seal during operation, which causes the seal of the crankcase to be compromised. Transmission oil begins to flow into the cavity of the transfer gearbox. Gears and rolling bearings in the main box, working in conditions of lack of lubrication, begin to wear out. The resulting metal dust falls on the contacting surfaces, accelerating wear of the elements.
Damaged parts begin to make noise during operation, problems appear with switching gears, and gears may switch off spontaneously.
Causes of transfer case failure
The main reasons for the failure of the gear transfer case on the Patriot:
- Natural wear of parts, leading to the destruction of gears or bearings. To restore standard operating conditions, it is necessary to remove the unit and check the condition of the parts; damaged components must be replaced. When installing gears, parts should be selected according to the gap, which reduces operating noise.
- The use of tires of different diameters on the front and rear axles on the car leads to difficulty changing gears. The cause of the defect may be damage to the gears, jamming of the spline joint or parts of the stage selection mechanism.
- Worn gears and bearings lead to spontaneous shutdown of speeds. The defect occurs due to breakage of the lock of the selected gear or bending of the parts of the shift mechanism.
- Wear of gaskets or mechanical damage to the crankcase or covers lead to lubricant leakage from the housing. Oil can ooze through the rubber seals of the shafts, which over time lose their elasticity and dry out.
Dymos transfer gearboxes use a chain drive and an electric shift drive. During prolonged movement with increased load, the chain is stretched and destroyed, which leads to the appearance of extraneous noise. If problems occur with electronic components, an error notification appears on the screen in the instrument cluster.
To clarify the reason for the message, computer diagnostics are performed.
During operation, the box does not require adjustment, but the driver must periodically check the oil level in the crankcase. Do not operate the unit if foam or water is detected in the lubricating fluid. The contaminated oil is drained through the standard hole, and then fresh lubricant is poured into the crankcase (in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements). If oil leaks are detected, it is necessary to disassemble the unit and replace gaskets or damaged covers or mounting screws.
Difficulty switching gears indicates wear on the synchronizers or damage to the shift forks. Spontaneous loss of speed when driving occurs due to a broken clutch or due to wear of bearings or gears. To reduce the impact of wear products, it is necessary to perform a routine oil change every 60 thousand km.
The drained fluid is checked for the presence of metallic inclusions that enter the lubricant as a result of the destruction of gearbox parts.
To remove the Dymos unit with your own hands, you will need to follow these steps:
- Drain the oil from the crankcases of the main gearbox and the transfer gearbox, and then disconnect the flange connection of the front axle drive driveshaft.
- Unscrew the bolts securing the intermediate support of the rear propeller shaft. The drives from the axles are not disconnected; the pipes are moved away from the box and attached with wire to the frame or suspension elements.
- Disconnect the speed sensor connector and then remove the catalytic converter along with the protective shield.
- After dismantling the clutch drive and the intermediate drive of the parking brake, it is necessary to remove the fastening of the exhaust pipe. Then a jack with a board is placed under the engine crankcase, which allows you to remove the rear box mount.
- Remove the cross member located under the box. Then the unit should be lowered down, which allows you to separate the control levers of the main box and the transfer gearbox.
- Remove the reverse gear indicator plug, and then unscrew the bolts connecting the box to the engine crankcase. The transmission assembly must be pulled back and moved down.
Dymos box disassembly algorithm
The transfer gearbox is attached to the gearbox housing using 2 nuts and 2 bolts. Then the gear selection mechanism is removed, which is additionally fixed with sealant. There is a bolt inside the niche that can be unscrewed with a spanner. To remove the rear cover, you need to unscrew the screws located around the perimeter of the crankcase. On the side of the box there is a bolt holding the intermediate shaft with the reverse gear, which must be unscrewed. The second shaft mounting bolt is partially unscrewed.
On the left side of the box housing there is a plug, under which there is a spring with a ball. After removing the plug, it is necessary to unscrew the screws securing the input shaft journal (located on the side where the clutch mechanism is installed). Remove the retaining ring and pull out the ball bearing using a puller, which will allow you to divide the box housing into 2 halves. Then the previously loosened bolt securing the reverse gear axis is unscrewed, which allows the part to be removed.
Using a thin screwdriver or awl, knock out the pins that hold the shift rods in place. Hang the crankcase cover with gears by the secondary shaft, and then heat the bearing seat with a torch. After heating the local area of the housing to 400°C, the metal crankcase is knocked off the supports. Then the shafts are disassembled one by one, which makes it possible to determine the degree of wear of the parts. After installing new elements, assembly is carried out in the reverse order; during installation, the position of the parts is taken into account and the tightening torque is observed.
