A squeaky bucket for the lower middle class.
32,000 km, it seemed that there was something to tell the unlucky thoughtful future buyer of this car. For me, this was the first car bought in a store from a dealer for mega-money, with official maintenance during operation, mandatory CASCO, which I had never done before. That is, for the first time, not counting the UAZs and Muscovites in my distant childhood, the Volga and a long row of right-hand drive used Toyotas (Kaldina, Corona, Hayes, Cresta, Vista), Nissan March, Honda Accord, Honda S-MX, to a new car from the store.
Having driven quite a lot in a year, the usual number of kilometers for all my cars, I discovered pros and cons, which I will share.
I went for a test drive, the dealer allows me to drive far, so you can understand. So, drive as long as possible on the test. And more than once.
Show off. Shopping in a store is cool, and you should probably do it at least once. If you just forget that the money is not yours, but the bank's. And you have to pay him regularly 22,000 a month. And there is still 550,000 left to pay, which is unpleasant to realize.
The warranty is very good, but it should be noted that before this, not a single Japanese car in my service was lost so often - either maintenance or breakdown.
CASCO is expensive, about 55,000 per year, but it pays for itself in the case of this particular car - the door was painted, another door and threshold were painted (12,000, 78,000 (here the door was changed, so it’s expensive)), the cracked windshield was replaced (about 30,000). Advice - when you apply for CASCO, find out how many times you can report damage without calling the traffic police; for some companies, twice a year, which is more profitable.
A shiny car from a store does not shine for a long time; after several washes, it is evenly covered with scratches from rags when wiping the car. This car is poorly painted, in some places the varnish on the lights bulges, if you get out carelessly and the belt buckle hits the door, dents and chips form easily.
I liked this unit while driving - the ride is soft, the engine is powerful, the acceleration on the highway when overtaking is confident. I don’t recommend a two-liter engine - it’s barely enough. Consumption is a very important indicator for me, in the summer with the air conditioner it constantly consumes 12.5 according to the computer, in the winter with constant warm-ups - 14.2 liters. I drive around the city, but I don’t sit in traffic jams for a long time. Long ends around the city every day, so the average consumption is acceptable. The owner of a 2-liter one complained about the consumption of 25 liters, but it drives little and heats up more, in my opinion.
The tires are standard - just throw them away, I really didn’t like them, they brake poorly, squeal when cornering, they’re kind of hard. Changed it. Well, and, of course, new for winter. Each set is 25-28,000.
The noise insulation is so-so, it makes noise both from the wheel arches and from the wind, which makes me want to soundproof it further.
The interior is very creaky, just a very creaky back door, the rear sofa is knocking, the front panel is creaking, the tape recorder is creaking. The dealer tried to fix it, but couldn't. And bodybuilders and alarm installers.
The interior is fabric, the fabric in the driver's seat has already turned white.
The driver's seat is comfortable, but I could not sit completely comfortably, my personal characteristics are evident.
There is no legroom for rear passengers and it is uncomfortable to sit down. The sofa doesn't move.
There is a lot of space in the trunk, but I don’t use it - just a sled and a stroller. Once I was transporting a washing machine; I could fit another one.
The sound from the speakers is below average. The radio antenna picks up well. Bluetooth connects well.
The roof lights are an unnecessary option, but they somehow harmonize the awkward appearance of the car. Luke isn't there and I'm glad he's not. Unnecessary option.
Headlight washer - turned off, unnecessary useless nonsense, only wastes water, does not wash anything. The fact that there is no water level indicator in the tank is inconvenient.
The suspension - along with the rattling tailgate - is the biggest drawback. I only drive around the city. The roads, of course, are bad, not so much potholes as uneven surfaces into which the car dives, straining all its weak rubber bands and bearings. At 20,000 they died, knocking, both sliding bearings of the front struts were replaced under warranty. At 30,000 the silent blocks creaked in the front and, it seems, in the rear. The dealer is not very happy, go with him, show him, and he says - I don’t hear anything. Then, apparently, the links started knocking. I'll go for diagnostics. The problem with this dealer service is that they try to prove to you that everything is in order, they diagnose it in your absence, in the workshop. If the car is not under warranty - you bought the part, changed it, this process does not exist - prove that you have something knocking there. And the car, you know, came to the appointment, the tooth hurt and stopped.
But the funniest thing about this car is the crunching noise in the drive trains. Which they are not going to fix! It's because of the frost! And you will drive like this until it gets warmer. And we have winter from November to April. A crunch when accelerating, when one of the wheels in a straight line loosens the load on it a little, on a bump there, and you hear a distinct loud grinding sound. The dealer tore it apart, lubricated it with new grease, said that I was in a good big company and was not going to change it. The most unpleasant part is this crunch.
By the way, it starts well in winter, -32 in the morning it started from the key fob without warming up at night.
THAT. One of those unnecessary expensive things when buying a new car. An oil change usually costs around 8000. With filters. The last maintenance cost 18,000, the front pads were worn out, the spark plugs must be changed, they are very expensive. In normal life you will spend twice as much. Maintenance every 10,000. Severe operating conditions. But I agree with this statement. Although in the same city KIA has 15,000 miles between maintenance.
Good afternoon. In today's article we will talk about the weaknesses of the Nissan X-Trail of various modifications. Traditionally for our site, the article will contain a lot of photos and videos.
History of the model.
Nissan X-Trail has been produced since 2001 by Nissan in Japan, Canada, Russia and the UK. During its production, the car went through 3 generations, each of which had a different platform, and went through several minor restylings. Since the platforms are different, each generation will have its own weaknesses, and we will consider them separately.
Separately, I would like to emphasize that the Nissan X-trail, of any generation, is not an SUV; it is an ordinary parquet and its place is on the asphalt!
The main drive for this car is front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive is activated automatically when one of the wheels slips and, by and large, is a driver assistance system. T.N. rigid locking of the center differential, connects the rear axle with a multi-plate friction clutch, and operates at speeds of up to 30 km/h, after which the system switches to automatic mode.
In general, the car outperforms the Subaru Forester, Toyota RAV4, Honda SRV in cross-country ability, but is hopelessly behind the Land Rover Freedlander (this is due to the reduction gear in the transmission).
First generation Nissan X-Trail (Nissan X-Trail T30).
The first generation of the car is based on the modernized Nissan FF-S platform; previously Nissan Almeria and Nissan Primera cars were produced on this platform. Produced from 2002 to 2007. A distinctive feature of the car is the inconvenient location of the instruments (in the center of the panel).
X-Trail T30 is available with 2.0 liter petrol engines. (140 hp), and 2.5 l. (165 hp), as well as with a 2.2 liter diesel engine. (114 hp)
If you come across an export X-Trail from Japan, it is somewhat more interesting - the 2.0-liter gasoline engine in naturally aspirated version develops 150 hp. 150 hp and 280 hp with turbocharging.
In 2003, the first generation was restyled, with bumpers and interior trim changed, and engine power slightly increased.
In the case of Russia, the optimal choice seems to be a manual car with a 2.5 liter engine. Its fuel consumption is almost the same as version 2.0 (and in the urban cycle it will often be lower), and the transport tax remains at an acceptable level. Spare parts are also common.
Diesel is more economical than gasoline versions, but has problems with maintenance; there are few diesel specialists.
(3rd generation) is based on the modular CMF platform, which is a modern variation of the Nissan C platform. Most of the car’s body elements are made of high-strength steel, which significantly reduces the total weight of the structure. The curb weight of the crossover, depending on the modification, varies in the range of 1525-1675 kg.
The Russian specification of the Nissan X-Trail provides for the presence of three power units: two naturally aspirated gasoline engines with a volume of 2.0 and 2.5 liters (144 and 171 hp, respectively), as well as a 1.6 dCi turbocharged diesel engine with an output of 130 hp. (320 Nm). Both gasoline engines were installed on the previous generation (X-Trail T31), but during the crossover update they were modernized, resulting in a slight increase in power. The engine can be paired with either a 6-speed manual transmission or an XTronic CVT, which emulates seven ranges. Along with the front-wheel drive layout, all-wheel drive with an intelligent All Mode 4×4-i all-wheel drive system is provided.
The all-terrain vehicle's suspension is a design with front MacPherson struts and a rear multi-link, and each modification has its own chassis settings. The basic trunk volume of the car is limited to 497 liters (with five seats), the maximum – 1585 liters (configuration with two front passengers and folded rear seatbacks).
The fuel consumption of the Nissan X-Trail T32 with a 2.0 engine is 7.1-11.2 liters, depending on the modification and driving mode. An all-wheel drive crossover with a 2.5 engine burns on average about 8.3 liters of fuel. The diesel X-Trail is the most economical - consumption of no more than 5.3 liters of diesel fuel per 100 km in a mixed driving cycle.
Technical characteristics of Nissan X-Trail T32 – summary table:
| Parameter | X-Trail 1.6 dCi 130 hp | X-Trail 2.0 144 hp | X-Trail 2.5 171 hp | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Engine | |||||
| engine's type | diesel | petrol | |||
| Supercharging | There is | No | |||
| Number of cylinders | 4 | ||||
| Number of valves per cylinder | 4 | ||||
| Volume, cubic cm. | 1598 | 1997 | 2488 | ||
| Power, hp (at rpm) | 130 (4000) | 144 (6000) | 171 (6000) | ||
| 320 (1750) | 200 (4400) | 233 (4000) | |||
| Transmission | |||||
| Drive unit | 4WD | 2WD | 2WD | 4WD | 4WD |
| Transmission | 6 manual transmission | 6 manual transmission | Xtronic CVT | Xtronic CVT | Xtronic CVT |
| Suspension | |||||
| Front suspension type | independent MacPherson type | ||||
| Rear suspension type | independent multi-link | ||||
| Brake system | |||||
| Front brakes | ventilated disc | ||||
| Rear brakes | disk | ||||
| Steering | |||||
| Amplifier type | electric | ||||
| Tires | |||||
| Tire size | 225/65 R17, 225/60 R18 | ||||
| Disc size | 17×7.0J, 18×7.0J | ||||
| Fuel | |||||
| Fuel type | DT | AI-95 | |||
| Tank volume, l | 60 | ||||
| Fuel consumption | |||||
| Urban cycle, l/100 km | 6.2 | 11.2 | 9.0 | 9.4 | 11.3 |
| Extra-urban cycle, l/100 km | 4.8 | 6.6 | 6.1 | 6.4 | 6.6 |
| Combined cycle, l/100 km | 5.3 | 8.3 | 7.1 | 7.5 | 8.3 |
| dimensions | |||||
| Number of seats | 5 | ||||
| Length, mm | 4640 | ||||
| Width, mm | 1820 | ||||
| Height, mm | 1710 (1715 with roof rails) | ||||
| Wheelbase, mm | 2705 | ||||
| Front wheel track, mm | 1575 | ||||
| Rear wheel track, mm | 1575 | ||||
| Front overhang, mm | 940 | ||||
| Rear overhang, mm | 995 | ||||
| Trunk volume, l | 497 | ||||
| Trunk volume max, l | 1585 | ||||
| Ground clearance (clearance), mm | 210 | ||||
| Weight | |||||
| Curb, kg | 1675 | 1525 | 1555 | 1642 | 1659 |
| Full, kg | 2130 | 1930 | 1990 | 2060 | 2070 |
| Dynamic characteristics | |||||
| Maximum speed, km/h | 186 | 183 | 183 | 180 | 190 |
| Acceleration time to 100 km/h, s | 11.0 | 11.1 | 11.7 | 12.1 | 10.5 |
Engines Nissan X-Trail T32
1.6 dCi R9M 130 hp
The new Energy dCi 130 turbodiesel with the factory index R9M was developed by Renault-Nissan for subsequent installation on its models. The production of the power unit was launched in 2011 in France. The engine belongs to a new generation of engines that are characterized by efficiency, high torque and low carbon dioxide emissions. The power unit is equipped with a Start/Stop system, a variable geometry compressor, an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system with a cold cycle, and Direct Injection. The R9M cylinder block is made of cast iron, the cylinder head is made of aluminum, and the pistons are coated with graphite.
The maximum torque of 320 Nm is achieved at 1750 rpm, while 80% of the peak torque is available at 1500 rpm. The engine meets the requirements of the Euro-5 standard, but is also prepared for the transition to Euro-6. The motor is also installed on cars, and.
2.0 MR20DD 144 hp
The MR20DD petrol engine is a modernized MR20DE unit from the previous Ixtrail. During the update, the engine was equipped with a variable valve timing system on both camshafts, a variable-length intake manifold and direct injection. As a result, power increased from 141 to 144 hp, and torque increased from 196 to 200 Nm.
2.5 QR25DE 171 hp
The four-cylinder QR25DE engine is a real long-liver, as it appeared back in 1999 and was installed on the very first Nissan X-Trail. During its life, the unit was updated several times, receiving another portion of innovations by the time the third generation of Ixtrail debuted. The engine acquired a new cylinder head with holes for injectors (previously the injectors were installed on the manifold), a variable timing system on the intake and exhaust valves, and an intake tract with an adjustable length. All this, combined with an increase in the compression ratio from 9.6 to 10.0, gave a gain of 2 hp. (171 versus the previous 169 hp) At the same time, the peak engine torque has shifted from 4400 to 4000 rpm.
Technical characteristics of Nissan X-Trail T32 engines - table:
| Parameter | 1.6 dCi 130 hp | 2.0 144 hp | 2.5 171 hp |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine code | R9M | MR20DD | QR25DE |
| engine's type | diesel turbocharged | petrol without turbocharging | |
| Supply system | Common Rail direct injection, two camshafts (DOHC) | direct injection, dual camshafts (DOHC), dual variable valve timing | distributed injection, two camshafts (DOHC), dual variable valve timing system |
| Number of cylinders | 4 | ||
| Cylinder arrangement | in-line | ||
| Number of valves | 16 | ||
| Cylinder diameter, mm | 80.0 | 84.0 | 89 |
| Piston stroke, mm | 79.5 | 90.1 | 100 |
| Compression ratio | 15.4:1 | 11.2:1 | 10.0:1 |
| Working volume, cubic meters cm. | 1598 | 1997 | 2488 |
| Power, hp (at rpm) | 130 (4000) | 144 (6000) | 171 (6000) |
| Torque, N*m (at rpm) | 320 (1750) | 200 (4400) | 233 (4000) |
All-wheel drive Nissan X-Trail
The Nissan Xtrail crossover is initially a front-wheel drive car with a plug-in rear axle. The main component of the All Mode 4x4-i system is an electromagnetic clutch mounted in front of the rear differential. The all-wheel drive system can be controlled using a three-mode switch located on the central tunnel.
The “2WD” position allows the clutch to open, but in this mode the crossover still does not become exclusively front-wheel drive. If the electronics deem it necessary, part of the effort will be sent to the rear axle, but still the connection will be reluctant. The 4WD mode is suitable for almost any conditions, so it will most likely be used by the owner most often. In this case, the rear axle is connected automatically when the front wheels slip. The ratio of transmitted torque varies from 100:0 to 50:50.
In Lock mode, maximum current is applied to the clutch electromagnet, resulting in the clutch being completely locked. The force is distributed in a fixed proportion of 50:50, which is forcibly maintained when driving at speeds up to 40 km/h. Exceeding this speed limit leads to a transition to the “Auto” mode.
The all-wheel drive design does not provide for full locking front and rear differentials. Electronic imitation of inter-wheel locks is performed by braking the slipping wheel.
(factory index T31) was created on a platform called Nissan C. The car turned out to be very popular, which is not surprising: for a little over a million they offered a mid-size SUV with a huge trunk. But is it worth looking for the “cunning thing,” as its owners often call it, on the secondary market?
OFFICIAL VERSIONS
Most of the X-Trails that appeared on the Russian market were imported by official dealers. Until 2009, all the cars we sold were Japanese-made. Later they established production at the Nissan plant in St. Petersburg. It is gratifying that absolutely all modifications, both diesel and gasoline, were officially sold here. This is good, because there is a high chance of saving all service documentation. We also have right-hand drive versions, but mainly beyond the Urals.
DELICATE SKIN
The X‑Trail has a masculine appearance, but the paintwork on the body is surprisingly delicate. After a few years, the varnish begins to become cloudy and rubbed off - like all external chrome. And chips in the paint remain even after light blows from small stones. The worst thing is if they appear on a non-galvanized roof: the places of “combat contacts” quickly rust.
The main source of unpleasant sounds from outside is the rattling plastic panel under the wipers.
The interior is also not without its “crickets”. The main one is located in the cup holders of the lower part of the center console. Seat upholstery, whether fabric or leatherette, is not durable and after two years it wears out, losing its presentation. Usually by this time the steering wheel rim also peels off. But the heater is even more upsetting. After three years, its motor begins to whistle due to wear of the brush assembly and commutator, which promises a quick replacement of the assembled part (10,000 rubles).
Don’t be surprised if at one “wonderful” moment the audio system or cruise control stops responding to the buttons on the steering wheel - this means the cable has failed. If you can’t restore it, a new one will cost 10,700 rubles.
For cars with expensive trim levels, it would be a good idea to check the serviceability of the electric seat drives, especially the driver’s seat, otherwise you will have to fork out a couple of tens of thousands of rubles. The frame of the driver's seat creaks regardless of the configuration: the sounds of an old sofa are produced by many copies older than three years.
A rechargeable battery usually lasts no more than three to four years in our climate. There are no particular problems with the generator, and its breakdown is the exception rather than the rule.
FOLLOW YOUR HEART
The range of power units at X-Trail does not shine with variety - exclusively in-line “fours”. In the engine range, the 2.0-liter MR20DE (140 hp) and 2.5-liter QR25DE (169 hp) gasoline engines are adjacent to the two-liter M9R turbodiesel in two power options (150 or 173 hp) .
More than half of the cars on the market are equipped with two-liter gasoline engines - and they most often break down. Moreover, the owners of X-Trails manufactured in 2008 found themselves in a worse position: on some cars, the engines had a defective piston group and suffered from increased oil consumption. The piston was changed under warranty, so when choosing a 2008 car it would be a good idea to check the service history.
In addition, after 140,000-150,000 kilometers, some engines have piston rings and oil consumption exceeds a liter per thousand kilometers. Decarbonization does not always help, and then prepare 4,500 rubles for a set of piston rings and valve stem seals. Plus - what did you think? - five times more for work.
Be sure to inspect the engine from below. After 60,000–70,000 kilometers, the sealant, which acts as a pan gasket, begins to leak lubricant. Tightening the pan bolts often helps, but sometimes you have to reapply the sealant.
Motor oil is not the only liquid that the X‑Trail actively loses. If the antifreeze level regularly drops, check the expansion tank for leaks. Leaking at the junction of the upper and lower parts is a signature feature of the two-liter unit. Less commonly, fluid oozes from under the thermostat gasket. If the antifreeze runs out and no leaks are visible from the outside, things are bad. The MR20DE engine has thin walls of the spark plug wells, and it is enough to slightly overdo it when tightening it so that the threads crack and antifreeze begins to enter the combustion chamber. Therefore, make it a rule to tighten the spark plugs only with a torque wrench.
Otherwise, the two-liter unit is very similar to its older brother with the QR25DE index. If the car suddenly refuses to start (this usually happens after 120,000-130,000 kilometers), then it’s time to change the stretched timing chain (4,600 rubles).
Regardless of the engine type, the fuel gauge is lying. Fortunately, a clogged and, as a result, sticking fuel level sensor is replaced separately (5,600 rubles). But the fuel filter can be changed only as an assembly with a fuel pump (10,900 rubles). In order not to spend money on an expensive unit, for preventive maintenance, clean the filter mesh every 30,000-35,000 kilometers.
After 100,000–110,000 kilometers the valves will have to be adjusted. You heard right: the clearances for all engines are set the old fashioned way, by selecting the thickness of the pushers (adjusting washers are not provided). Not the most durable engine mounts require replacement up to 100,000 kilometers (6,500 rubles for the front and 2,400 rubles for the rear).
There are few diesel cars on our market - about 5% of the total volume. It's a pity! After all, the two-liter M9R turbodiesel has almost no weak points. Is it the return line of the fuel system... Its tubes often burst (5,400 rubles), and the O-rings begin to leak diesel fuel.
GIVE ME A BELT
The X‑Trail was equipped with a manual, automatic (6-speed) or CVT.
The traditional manual transmission is very durable. Perhaps its only ailment is that cars produced in 2010 had to change the clutch at 30,000-40,000 kilometers due to a defective disc.
The Jatco JF613E six-speed automatic transmission is found exclusively in tandem with a diesel engine, and this unit is an infrequent guest on our market - although six out of ten diesel cars are equipped with an automatic transmission. But in terms of reliability, Japanese hydromechanics are almost as good as conventional “mechanics” - provided you change the oil every 50,000–60,000 kilometers. Of course, the solenoids in the valve body are not as reliable as those in Jimmy’s GA6l45R automatic (it is familiar not only to owners of American cars, but also to BMW fans). However, thanks to a competent management program, they live no less than the entire box as a whole.
The modifications with the Jatco JF011E variator must be considered the most costly to operate. Not only repairs cost a pretty penny, but also routine maintenance. For example, replacing the expensive Nissan CVT Fluid NS‑2 oil (every four years or 60,000 kilometers) and the oil filter will cost about 16,000 rubles including labor. A push belt, which requires replacement every 150,000 kilometers, will cost 20,000 rubles. But saving on maintenance can turn out to be even more expensive. If you miss changing the oil, wear debris will jam the oil pump pressure reducing valve (13,000 rubles) and the unit will be starved of oil. The belt will pull up the variator cones (52,000 rubles). Along with the cones, the valve block (45,000 rubles) and the stepper motor (6,800 rubles) will suffer. The failure of the latter is usually accompanied by freezing in one gear.
The propeller shaft joints and CV joints are reliable, just be sure to monitor the condition of the boots (5,600 rubles per set). And don’t forget that the X‑Trail is a SUV, not an all-terrain vehicle. Long forays into serious off-road conditions and frequent slipping can condemn the electromagnetic clutch for connecting the rear wheels (43,000 rubles).
LIGAMENT RUPTURE
The X-Trail suspension is similar to the Qashqai suspension in both design and problems. The weakest link is the support bearings (1000 rubles each). Dirt and sand that get into the bearing wear it out within 20,000–30,000 kilometers. But this applies to cars of the first three years of production. Later the unit was modified, extending the life of the bearings to 100,000 kilometers.
The struts (2,000 rubles per set) and anti-roll bar bushings (1,100 rubles) last a little longer than 40,000 kilometers. To replace the latter, you will have to remove the subframe, on which it would also be nice to change the silent blocks. For versions with a 2.5‑liter engine, they are not sold separately, but similar parts from the two-liter modification are suitable. Silent blocks and ball joints of the front lower arms (6,400 rubles each) last up to 80,000–100,000 kilometers. At this mileage, a series of wheel bearings come up, which are replaced only together with the hub (6,400 rubles each).
In the rear suspension, the most trouble is with the lower shock absorber bushings, especially in cars of the first years of production. After restyling in 2010, the bushings were modified, and the sore was left behind. Do they knock on the supports and plastic covers of the front shock absorbers? It is easier to come to terms with this feature than to try to eliminate it.
The steering rack is quite reliable and does not start knocking before 140,000-150,000 kilometers. When turning the steering wheel, the steering shaft cardan shafts (4,400 rubles) often make a sound and its rubber seals creak. Lubrication with a silicone compound has already become a ritual for X-Trail owners.
The braking system is also reliable. In some cars, the ABS unit failed - most often after storming fords and other mud baths.
Despite childhood illnesses, the X‑Trail T31 series has become a real bestseller among crossovers. The opportunity to get a lot of car for relatively little money is very tempting.
In terms of price, only the Mitsubishi Outlander is comparable to it. Korean competitors Kia Sorento and Hyundai Santa Fe are still 40,000-50,000 rubles more expensive.
X‑Trail loses less than 9% in value per year. And if you decide to buy it, it’s better to aim for the manual version with a 2.5-liter engine.
The ideal option is a diesel engine with a classic automatic transmission, but you won’t find such cars during the day. And the more affordable automatic version with a CVT, even in good condition, can require considerable operating costs.
A WORD TO THE SELLER
Artem MELNICHUK, director of used car sales salon
Not everything is clear with the sale. I can’t say that the X‑Trail is a slow-moving car. Buyers love it for its large trunk, spacious interior and good cross-country ability for a crossover. Cars with manual transmission sell out the fastest. The electromagnetic clutch and especially the variator alarm many: possible repairs will cost a tidy sum (although the variator does not necessarily require repairs).
Another great advantage of the car is that over the years its resale value decreases very slowly, if not at all. But if a car has an opaque service history, it is almost impossible to sell it at an affordable price.
WORD TO THE OWNER
Lev TIKHON, owner of the Nissan X‑Trail crossover (2011, 2.0 l, manual transmission, mileage 46,000 km)
This is already my second X‑Trail. The main criteria when choosing a car were a spacious interior, high ground clearance and low price.
The first X‑Trail, produced in 2007, lived with me for four years, during which I covered 200,000 kilometers. The biggest trouble happened at the 63rd thousand, when the rear gearbox fell apart. It was replaced under warranty, but I had to travel 250 kilometers to the dealer. Otherwise the car turned out to be very reliable. In addition to the gearbox, I only changed the support bearings and stabilizer links. And the clutch of the manual transmission was completely worn out after 200 thousand!
When it was time to change the car, there were no questions - just X‑Trail! Therefore, in 2011 I became the owner of an updated “cunning car”. Like the previous one, it has a two-liter engine and a manual transmission. Yes, and the equipment is the same. But the assembly is already Russian, and, in my opinion, it is worse than the Japanese one: they clearly saved on materials and some small details. But I still think the car is good, especially on long trips. The voyage to Greece only strengthened me in this opinion.
WORD TO THE TECHNICAL SPECIALIST
Stanislav OLYUSHIN, acceptance master at the Flagman-Auto technical center
Like most crossovers, the Nissan X‑Trail is a complex car and requires considerable maintenance costs. The biggest problem of a two-liter gasoline engine is the short life of the timing chain. I recommend changing it every 100,000 kilometers. For the work, excluding the cost of spare parts, you will have to pay about 12,000 rubles.
Diesel engines have problems with the rear circuit of the vacuum pump and the injection pump pressure reducing valve.
The suspension is too stiff, which affects its reliability. Stabilizer struts and ball joints last an average of 30,000-40,000 kilometers. But they won’t charge you much for suspension repairs. For example, a complete overhaul of the rear suspension will cost 7,000 rubles (excluding the cost of spare parts). Maintenance also cannot be called very expensive - on average 5,000–7,000 rubles, including all consumables.
The alternation of periods of frost and thaw, so characteristic of Central Russia, often becomes the reason that the rubber bands of windshield wipers often turn out to be frozen to it due to frost.
How can you avoid such problems?
In order to encounter this phenomenon as rarely as possible, car drivers use various methods. The most popular method is still raising their leashes and leaving them in this state for the entire time they are parked. Despite the fact that this makes it possible to ensure that the rubber bands do not freeze to the windshield, there is another negative point - stretching of the springs.
Reasons for windshield wipers freezing. The most likely cause is bad weather, with precipitation in the form of sleet or rain. When the air temperature is below freezing, snow falling on the car windshield causes ice to form. The consequence of this is the blocking of the glass wipers.
Methods of prevention. There are several options to prevent this situation from occurring.
Option 1. Treatment with silicone grease.
This method is one of the most inexpensive, but quite effective. Most drivers know that silicone has water-repellent properties. This means that its application can serve as a solution to the problem of windshield wipers icing up and the blades freezing to the windshield. The best choice would be a lubricant in the form of a spray with a dispenser, which will enable the fastest and highest quality treatment of the required areas.
Before using this product, you need to completely remove snow from the windshield and wipers and wipe them with anti-freeze. After this, a thin layer of the product should be applied to the rubber-coated part of the brush and spread over its entire length using a dry cloth.
Option 2. Installation of heating strips.
Another fairly effective option that falls into the budget category. It consists of small strips that should be stuck on the windshield in the place where the windshield wipers usually end. They work from the cigarette lighter in the cabin, and after they heat up, the ice crust will be removed in about 5 minutes.
Option 3. Isolating the brushes from the glass.
In the place where the wipers and glass come into contact, they must be wiped with a dry cloth. After this, specially prepared covers should be put on them. When you get ready to start your car in the morning, you just need to remove the covers from the wipers to prepare them for work.
Option 4. Using alcohol.
A fairly simple and effective method. It is necessary to dilute alcohol with water in a ratio of 2:1, and then spray the resulting liquid onto the windshield. This will prevent the rubber bands of the brushes from freezing to
