I want to tell you how my friend and I made an electric scooter. Patient: Honda dio 34 with an internal combustion engine running thanks to swearing and someone's mother. A small digression - I made the scooter for my grandfather who lives in the village, the idea to remake it came a long time ago, as gasoline and spare parts for the scooter are very difficult to get. All spare parts were bought at Alik, with the exception of the engine, it turned out to be cheaper in Ukraine than from narrow-eyed friends.
Patient before alteration
Motor Qs motor 48v 2000w
We started by making a pendulum, for this we took an ordinary 40x20 profile pipe, two sales blocks and a pipe of suitable diameter, everything was cut out with a hacksaw (of course there are no grinders) they were made without drawings, everything was in place
We missed 3 times with the shock absorber, first the low rider came out, the second time the ground clearance was like that of a Range Rover, and the third time it could barely stand on its leg, but ok:D
Next, when the engine is in place, it’s up to the electronics and the battery - here’s more details, in this Honda the tank is in the floor, which means the battery should be shoved there too, assembly from Chinese 3300 (real 3100) 13s 11p cans
Yes yes, you can't solder
First fitting
since the battery is in the floor and all the shit will fly from the front wheel, it needs a housing, what should it be made from in the village, that’s right, from wood 😅 or rather from plywood from a TV
A shelf for the battery is also made from a tire.
I wanted to keep the instrument panel in its original form and not embed voltmeters and the like. Therefore, it was decided to convert the fuel level indicator into a charge level indicator; for this, an arduino, a microservo, a voltage divider and some simple code were used
Oh yes, the on-board network, for the on-board network a converter was used from the same site, which I successfully burned after confusing the input with the output, and fried it in a frying pan to pick out the compound and repair it (successfully) :)
Another half day of cutting into the wiring and throwing out unnecessary modules and here it is, ready
The charging port is in the hatch where the gas tank was, the charging is 5 ampere, according to the characteristics, the range is about 70 km, the terrain is mountainous, it pulls very vigorously, the maximum speed is 70 km/h, it takes off from a standstill, grandfather is happy))
Electric scooter. The engine is a Ford generator. DIY electric scooter test drive, assembler of these creations Vitaly Bogachev. The interesting thing about this craft is that the person took a factory gasoline scooter and made an electric one from improvised means. Of course, not everyone has the opportunity to use a machine, especially a CNC one. But as an experience as a visual application, Vitaly Bogachev’s homemade assembly may be useful for someone.
In addition to the fact that the electric motor was converted from a generator, its fasteners and rear wheel suspension also underwent modifications, namely the welding of brackets for the wheel. This means that a welder is also needed for such a construction.
At first, I also thought about converting a gas scooter to an electric one, but after I realized that I couldn’t do without an angle grinder, a welder and good metal, I immediately abandoned this idea. The thing is that such equipment is not cheap and you need to know how to cook it, it is much cheaper to find a used electric scooter and much cheaper.
But there are so many people and so many opinions, maybe someone has similar equipment, then why not. And experience is always valuable.
Well, a couple of videos on this topic:
Electric scooter. The engine is a Ford generator. DIY electric scooter test drive, assembler of these creations Vitaly Bogachev. The interesting thing about this craft is that the person took a factory gasoline scooter and made an electric one from improvised means. Of course, not everyone has the opportunity to use a machine, especially a CNC one. But as an experience as a visual application, Vitaly Bogachev’s homemade assembly may be useful for someone.
In addition to the fact that the electric motor was converted from a generator, its fasteners and rear wheel suspension also underwent modifications, namely the welding of brackets for the wheel. This means that a welder is also needed for such a construction.
At first, I also thought about converting a gas scooter to an electric one, but after I realized that I couldn’t do without an angle grinder, a welder and good metal, I immediately abandoned this idea. The thing is that such equipment is not cheap and you need to know how to cook it, it is much cheaper to find a used electric scooter and much cheaper.
But there are so many people and so many opinions, maybe someone has similar equipment, then why not. And experience is always valuable.
Well, a couple of videos on this topic:
Today you can often see electric vehicles on local roads. At the same time, we are not talking about cars, which include, for example, Tesla or other similar models, but exclusively about full-fledged modern two or three-wheeled vehicles that can provide significant assistance in the field of movement on city streets and off-road conditions in particular.
The most popular form of transport today is the electric scooter.
Homemade electric scooter
Speaking about how to make an electric scooter with your own hands, such a procedure initially implies the presence of a minimum basic kit that needs to be upgraded.
It is for this reason that the process of making an electric scooter with your own hands entails the need to first select the optimal model of equipment that requires processing.
The do-it-yourself electric scooter circuit is as follows:
- Initially, you need to decide which electric motor is perfect for your personal needs, and which controller to use. It is these parameters that will need to be based on.
- At the next stage, to make a homemade electric scooter from a starter, you need to attach the components to the frame and suspension (motor, battery, etc.), after which you need to connect everything together.
- At the final stage, you need to charge the battery from a 220V network and check the quality of all connections.
Important: only after making sure that the assembly was completed without flaws can you begin testing.
Selecting an electric motor
When assembling an electric moped with your own hands, you should pay special attention to the selection of an engine with a battery, since the final result, in particular the maximum speed and mileage, depends on this.
Selecting an electric motor
When selecting your battery, you need to consider the following features:
- The most expensive model is considered to be lithium phosphate, the advantage of which is its low weight. This would be a great option for yourself;
- The optimal place for installation on your device is considered to be under the frame, where the controller and alarm will also be placed (installed on your equipment if desired).
Many people start assembling their electric scooter by looking at numerous pictures and images. However, experts do not recommend doing this, since a person must keep a unique idea in his head, otherwise there is a high probability of missing something.
When developing your scooter, it is worth remembering the need for welding work. As a rule, this also plays an important role when choosing a battery.
If your development plan does not involve independent work, you should initially consult with a specialist.
Despite the significant costs of welding, your scooter will quickly pay for itself.
Battery selection
Scooter assembly and welding work
To assemble your electric scooter, you cannot do without welding.
Among the features are:
- They often use a profile pipe with dimensions of 20x20x2 mm as a frame for their scooter;
- an engine mount is a must-have for your scooter;
- for the purpose of installing the control system, irf3205 transistors are used;
- if necessary, carrying out turning work.
Important: do not forget to install a chain tensioner on your electric scooter, without which it will be impossible to start.
Homemade electric scooter safety
There are a few things to keep in mind when making your electric scooter:
- there is no risk to life - safety is at a high level;
- the costs are significant. There is a need to pay not only for the engine, but also for an expensive controller.
The only negative point is considered to be the likelihood of not moving if your electric scooter was assembled incorrectly. That is why you need to treat this with full responsibility.
Hi all! I want to share with you a story about how to make it yourself electric motorcycle
This project started with a moped found on the side of the road. Although it was not in working order, the frame was normal. Deciding to use all the parts and combine them with a mountain bike to build a powerful electric motorcycle. I decided to use a mountain bike with 20 inch wheels, all because the wheel size and low profile tires meet the requirements of a small internal combustion engine motorcycle.
Step 1: Materials Needed
- Razor Pocket moped (frame, seat, brake lever);
- mountain bike (wheels and tires, brakes, freewheel, gear lever, derailleur, front fork, chain, handlebars, stand, handles);
- Electric motor 48 V 1000 W;
- Sprocket for motor (11 teeth);
- Controller 48V 30A;
- 4 sealed lead-acid batteries 12V 9Ah;
- Charger 48V 2.5A;
- Speedometer;
- Additional 7 tooth sprocket;
- Additional bicycle chain;
- Throttle handle;
- Start switch;
- 12V headlight kit;
- PVC pipe 16 cm long;
- Vinyl fabric dimensions 51*36 cm;
- Steering wheel mirror;
- 60 cm piece of corner (to extend the rear axle and support the seat);
- Threaded steel rod 120 cm long and 0.95 cm in diameter (rear axle support);
- Sheet aluminum dimensions 300*36 cm;
- 1 can of aerosol glue;
- Stain;
- 3 cans of paint/primer;
- A lot of wood (boards, 0.3 cm thick plywood for panels);
- Roll of window insulating foam;
- Electrical connectors for batteries and ignition controller;
- A can of polyurethane;
- Lots of wood screws and mounting hardware;
- 6 m 12 core electrical cable;
- 1 can of cleaning product.
Step 2: Required Tools
- Electric drill;
- Band-saw;
- Metal scissors;
- Soldering iron;
- Various hammers, screwdrivers and wrenches;
- Chain tension adjuster;
- Staple gun;
Step 3: Disassembly and installation of the plug
The scooter frame was in excellent shape with no rust or damage. For donor a new one was purchased bike. All parts were dismantled and labeled. Since the scooter frame uses large diameter pipes (for the front fork), I had to modify the fastening system in order to be able to install the front fork from a bicycle. Luckily everything fit very tightly, so a little J-B Weld ( contact welding) and a few studs will ensure the new fork works well. 
Step 4: Extend the rear axle
Let's use steel corners and threaded rod to create a longer rear axle that can accommodate the rear wheel. All these operations are necessary in order to make the project at home without additional tools, I needed to make everything without welding. The metal structure turned out to be excellent. It was easy to mount it to the frame and install mounting hardware for other parts.
Step 5: Build the body and casing
I know, I know, it's all made of wood. Initially, the idea was to design the frame entirely from steel and aluminum, but once it was decided to use a Razor frame and avoid welding, the plan changed on its own. Steel was used for all structural elements, and the cosmetic structure is created from wood. This saved me a lot of time and prevented me from adding weight to the bike. Essentially, the wooden structure is mounted on the chassis so that the bike is strong. There are quite a few attachment points on the Razor frame where plastic scooter panels were installed, so I needed to create a design that would utilize the remaining attachments.
Protective casing And headlight were created using a piece of PVC pipe with a diameter 15.5 – 16 cm cut in half. Cut the corners in the pipe using a large band saw. We make holes in the casing for batteries and wires; the cover was installed on hinges. We cut sections of facing plywood to create grooves.
Step 6: Mode/Form Body Panels
Initially, it was problematic to decide how to cover the body. I didn’t want to use wood, so while spending time in construction stores, I came across a roll sheet aluminum(usually it is used for roofing). Aluminum was quite thin and cheap, ideal for the project.
Began creating panels With sheet Whatman paper. After all the shapes and curves were formed, I repeated the design on aluminum, and then cut everything out using tin snips. Then wrap aluminum panel around the frame. The finishing process took a long time. And finally, cutting out all the panels and bending them, drill holes for mounting screws. I wanted the body to look like vintage aircraft panels, so I drilled parallel rows of holes along the edges of each piece of aluminum.
Step 7: Paint
Once the panels were installed and drilled, I removed them along with the front fork and rear support. Having painted the entire frame, panels and tank in glossy black. This was the best color to hide the unsightly seams between the panels. Was used 3 coats of paint and 2 coats of clear coat. Paint the wood dashboard cherry and coat it with high-gloss polyurethane. Once everything is dry, reassemble the motorcycle by adding insulation in the casing. We change the seat upholstery from the original white to caramel. Installed lights, stand, engine and running boards. Also installed a speedometer.
Step 8: Wiring, Transmission Housing
At first solder electrical connectors for all wires. Then connecting 4 batteries sequentially With 30A controller. All because I used it 48V system with 12V lights and because I didn't want to buy a DC/DC converter, I connected the lights to a series of up to two batteries. They draw so little current that it doesn't affect power while riding. In the future, if I change the batteries to a lithium battery, the design will have to be modified. The 48V lithium battery will help increase your mileage.
The engine that was purchased, according to the advertisement, produced 3000 rpm, but for the project there was a need increase gear ratio. If the engine didn't spin 6 times faster than the wheel in first gear, there would be a risk of burning it out. At the same time, I still wanted to use the ability to freewheel and change gears. It was decided install a second freewheel on the frame. Thus, the engine went from 11 teeth to 34 gear teeth, which then went to 14 teeth, and then to the rear wheel.
Mechanical losses are high, but the system will not allow high torque and deformation at low speed to make irreparable changes to the motorcycle system, and also makes it possible to change gears. For the starter, drill a hole in the dashboard.
After all this the motorcycle was ready.
Step 9: Finishing the Project
Since completion the bike has developed some flaws that need to be replaced, but as it stands the bike runs very well. The riding position is quite low, the seat height is from 66 cm, but can be adjusted by changing the length of the rear threaded support rod.
The motorcycle can develop speed order 40 km/h in first gear on level ground, maximum speed 64 km/h. Driving range 16 km. It weighs about 45 kg.
Thank you all for your attention. Successful to everyone homemade!
