There are situations when the purchase of mounted snow removal equipment for some reason impossible or unprofitable.
Therefore it has to be made on one's own.
Businesses have much more power than ordinary people.
Therefore, the equipment can do more:
- powerful;
- complex.
We will tell you:
- How make it yourself various options for mounted snow removal equipment;
- about everyone pros and cons of using such devices.
The use of homemade mounted snow removal equipment is not only numerous pros, but also extremely serious minuses.
The main advantage such snow blowers is a serious reduction in costs associated with:
- purchase;
- transportation.
After all, most details Can:
- remove from decommissioned equipment;
- You can buy it for pennies at a scrap metal collection point.
Another plus The point is that you can make non-standard equipment that is ideal for certain specific tasks.
The main disadvantage self-production of attachments are problems with the insurance company and the traffic police that arise after driving on public roads.
Indeed, in most cases, employees of these structures perceive the installation of any attachments as making changes to the design .
Therefore, after installing the unit the car must pass inspection, on which they will carefully check:
- correspondence new equipment designs cars;
- state himself car.
Often decisive factor, which leads to a ban on the operation of a municipal vehicle with homemade attachments, is the lack of various documents and certificates for the equipment.
Therefore, before installing homemade attachments, it is necessary probe the soil at the traffic police.
After all, the inspector can not only prohibit, but also suggest the right organization, where all documents will be completed correctly.
Self-production
Find ready-made drawings and the description for making one or another homemade mounted snow blower for a specific machine with your own hands is very difficult. After all, the unit is installed in some special way for each type of vehicle.
And also different mounting methods and location mounting holes.
Therefore, in most cases you have to:
- take drawings and methods for manufacturing a device for one machine and adapt it to another;
- draw up a drawing yourself, using a unit installed on another car as a sample.
In addition, the parts for which the drawing is drawn up are not always available.
Therefore you have to:
- draw up a new drawing;
- do it the old way, making changes as you go.
Should know three main conditions for self-production of good mounted snow removal devices are:
- availability of skilled and experienced masters;
- access to necessary equipment;
- good lawyers who will be able to obtain the necessary documents and legalize the units.
If you decide to make some kind of mounted snow removal equipment yourself, then make sure that all three conditions are met.
Can manufacture required equipment:
- from a not very suitable drawing;
- no drawing at all;
- looking at the finished unit.
But only such specialists, How:
- welders;
- turners;
- locksmiths;
- hydraulics.
Also make sure they have everything you need equipment.
Then talk to:
- traffic police officers;
- lawyers or companies involved in automotive technical expertise and legalization of various changes made to the design of the vehicle.
Perhaps, after counting all the costs, including payments to these companies or lawyers, you will decide that purchase a ready-made unit with all permissions:
- easier;
- cheaper.
Forums that can help
- description of a homemade blade for a small Chinese truck. By slightly increasing the size, it can be adapted to ZIL130, GAZ53 or KAMAZ4326.
- They tell you how to make an auger snow blower for a mini tractor. By increasing the size and installing a hydraulic motor, it can be used with any truck.
- car owner Oka describes making his own blade. By increasing the size and modifying the mount, it can be installed on a larger vehicle, for example, UAZ 469 or GAZ 66.
- describe the experience of manufacturing a blade from a steel pipe for the MTZ tractor.
Information from these forums will help you understand everything complexity of the process self-production of snow removal units.
There you will also find:
- photos;
- sketches;
- blueprints
various homemade products designed to deal with snow.
How to make your own dump
To create your own front plow for snow removal, you will be required:
- steel barrel (200 liters);
- steel corner with a shelf size of 10–15 millimeters;
- steel corner or square measuring 30 millimeters;
- corner or square with a cross section of 50 millimeters;
- 2 any hinges for a breaking frame;
- 3 small double-sided hydraulic cylinders;
- 2-3 any hinges (you can use garage hinges by drilling holes in them and inserting grease fittings);
- fitting;
- hoses;
- control panel and (if necessary) hydraulic pump;
- conveyor belt 20 millimeters thick;
- bolts and nuts of different sizes;
- riveter and rivets.
Put barrel and measure its circumference.
Divide the resulting value by 3, this will be the height of the blade.
Mark the barrel three vertical lines at the same distance.
Cut the barrel into three equal parts.
Then cut off the cover from each element on both sides using pliers fold all the edges at a distance of 3–5 mm to make them safe.
From the corner 10–15 millimeters make amplifiers, in shape corresponding to the trimmings of the barrel. To do this, cut one of the sides of the corner in 1 centimeter increments. Carefully bend the cut corner so that it takes the shape of a barrel. Then weld the cuts.
If the width of one barrel trim is not enough for a dump, then make it from several. In this case adjacent sheets should overlap at a distance of 20–25 cm so that they can be strengthened with amplifiers.
Place the amplifiers like this:
- 2 at the edges;
- the rest are at a distance of 20–25 centimeters from each other.
Connect the amplifiers to the barrel scraps with rivets, the pitch between the rivets is 3–5 centimeters. Cut a piece of conveyor belt 5 centimeters wide and use bolts to attach it to the bottom of the blade.
Don't use rivets, because they will not be able to hold the tape effectively.
At a distance of 5 centimeters from the bottom of the blade, weld a 50 mm square or corner along the entire structure and cut off another similar corner. This will be a rotary joint that changes the angle of the blade.
Install hinges between them.
If you use door hinges with grease fittings, then place them so that they need to be pulled in different directions to separate.
Weld the same corner or square on top.
Then weld an extension to it - a piece of the same corner 30–40 centimeters long, installed perpendicularly.
Weld braces that will strengthen the extension cord. Then install a hydraulic cylinder between the lower and upper (located after the hinges) corner. He will adjust the tilt of the device.
Do lifting and turning system devices in different directions using:
- swivel joints;
- corners of different sizes;
- hydraulic cylinders.
Attach the entire structure to the car frame. Do not attach the blade to the bumper, a strong load will tear it off and damage your creation.
Connect to hydraulic cylinders:
- fittings;
- hoses.
Then route the hoses into the cabin and install the control panel there.
His can be removed from any decommissioned equipment equipped with various hydraulic devices.
Connect the hydraulics to the truck's hydraulic pump or connect a separate hydraulic pump to the PTO.
It is not advisable to connect the hydraulic pump directly to the engine. using belt or chain drive. In this case, you will not be able to disable it if necessary.
Make sure that:
- all homemade construction assembled correctly;
- nothing anywhere not mixed up And doesn't dangle.
Check the condition of the entire hydraulic system, first when switched off, then when:
- wound up motor;
- connected hydraulic pump.
If there are no leaks anywhere, check the operation of the control panel.
After making sure that everything is working correctly, test the snow removal unit in real conditions by clearing some area of snow.
Conclusion
The use of homemade mounted snow removal devices where there are no conflicts with:
- traffic police officers;
- insurance companies,
seriously reduces costs to fight the snow.
After all, the cost of these devices, assembled from what was removed from decommissioned equipment or found at metal collection points, is tens of times lower than that of units sold in stores.
Yes, and high-quality homemade attachments are in no way inferior to those you can buy in a store By:
- productivity;
- reliability.
In this video you can see how a Niva works with a snow blade:
In contact with
An SUV for the owner of a suburban area, taking into account the quality of the roads, is an excellent help, and sometimes even a necessity. Under the hood of such a unit there are almost a hundred, and sometimes more, workhorses, which, coupled with the impressive weight and driving characteristics, becomes a serious argument in the fight against off-road conditions.
Why not use this power to improve the traffic situation in your local area during the winter? Manufacturers have long been concerned with suitable attachments, producing snow plows for UAZ and other SUV models popular in our country. Why not save money and make your own model of the blade, given that homemade versions turn out no worse, and sometimes even better than factory ones?
Factory option
There is no need to reinvent the wheel; it is much easier to find out how to make a dump for a UAZ from the manufacturers. It will most likely not be possible to completely copy factory suspended plows, but it is quite possible to take some models as a basis. In addition, a detailed study of proven options will allow you to avoid many mistakes when designing and manufacturing your own snow shovel.
- Blade dimensions. The minimum blade width on sale is 1900 mm, this is understandable; the wheels are located at a distance of up to 1.8 m on the outside of different models. The blade should cover this distance with a margin even in an inclined position; a width of 2-2.1 m would be ideal.
- Rotary mechanism. Different models provide finger fixation in the center or the use of additional rods. With such a blade size, it is better to use additional reinforcement.
- Fastening to the car. This unit provides the ability to lift the shovel vertically and sometimes protect the steering rods.
- Lifting mechanism. From the simplest leg for lifting the blade when moving backwards to winch mechanisms with manual or electrical control.
- To cushion the UAZ blades when colliding with serious obstacles, you can make it movable and equip it with springs.
Design
Much depends on the availability of materials and technical skills. It is more reliable and easier to make a blade without a rotating mechanism, thus saving a little on materials and significantly reducing the production time, but this will reduce its scope. On the other hand, the rotating mechanism can become the most vulnerable point of the structure; its design requires a certain margin of safety to be provided at the fixation points. The working surface of the blade also requires reinforcement; it is important to monitor the weight of individual parts. It is desirable that the blade can be mounted and dismounted by one person.
To protect the surface being cleaned, a rubber strip should be used, the fastening of which should be detachable so that the rubber can be replaced as it wears out. Where the blade is attached to the vehicle, it is worth considering a possible sharp collision of the blade with an obstacle. Mounting points should not be located in front of important parts of the vehicle.
Material selection
At this stage, the choice always remains with the performer; you can only advise or suggest where it is easiest to find suitable parts. Two-hundred-liter barrels have proven themselves well as material for a dump shovel, but given the planned dimensions, 2 barrels or additional reinforcement of the structure will be required. Square or rectangular pipes can be used as guides and reinforcing ribs; it is also possible to use a rolled angle, thin channel or I-beams.
For jumpers that regulate the angle of the blade, you can use lanyards or pipes of different diameters with holes for fixing fingers. When using a winch to control the lifting of the blade, additional material will be required to arrange a platform for the winch itself and a block system if necessary.
Homemade dumps for UAZ online
On the Internet you can find many examples where handicraftsmen demonstrate the assembled blade for a UAZ with their own hands. The drawings of talented craftsmen are very diverse, some offer simplified versions, others use various modifications, sometimes made more successfully than factory products.
Main stages and nodes
Where to start working in order to implement the planned dump on the UAZ with your own hands? The drawings must be made taking into account the model of the SUV, and there should always be some margin in size so that possible shortcomings can be corrected on the spot. The first step is to equip the place where the structure is attached to the car. These can be either simple fixed brackets or a whole platform like a “kenguryatnik” to accommodate not only a blade, but also a winch with a block system. The platform can be made either permanently or as a removable structure, which is preferable since it does not spoil the appearance of the car.
Next, you can start making the most massive part of the dump - the working shovel. It is best to choose the dimensions from the above: 2 x 0.6-0.8 m. A blade that is too large will clear snow better, but will be inconvenient during installation and transportation. At the next stage, it is better to fix the blade in a working vertical position and thus attach the remaining elements to it. It must be remembered that even simple dumps on a UAZ without a rotating mechanism must be movable vertically, otherwise the vehicle can be seriously damaged during operation. The last step is to manufacture the control and rotating elements and attach them to the structure.
Lifting mechanisms
You can see options where a manual drum winch is used as a lifting mechanism, and it is controlled by a person located on the front platform. This is not very safe; it would be better to raise and lower such dumps on the UAZ after the vehicle has completely stopped.
Using electric winches is much more convenient and safer, but not everyone is willing to spend money on such equipment. The most budget-friendly option would be a special stand that is activated when the car is reversed, and to constantly hold the blade in the upper position during transportation, you can use a lanyard.
Conclusion
The master is afraid of the work, they say. A do-it-yourself or factory-assembled UAZ blade will help you use your SUV not only as a means of transportation, but also as a faithful assistant in the household.
The harsh winter is such that owners of private houses often have to deal with snow removal. To solve the snow problem they use various devices, shovels, etc. Manually removing snow from a large area has become a rare case with the current level of technology development. And really, why waste long hours and effort on clearing snowdrifts and debris from your yard, if you can make a homemade blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands.
Homemade blade for walk-behind tractor do it yourself drawings
Snow plows, easily mounted on all types of equipment, significantly speed up and facilitate the process of clearing snow. Any snow blower blade for a walk-behind tractor contains three main parts - a snow shovel, a device for adjusting the angle of rotation of the shovel, and a fastening unit that secures the shovel to the frame of the tractor.
There are several designs of ready-made blades that are included in attachment kits, but such a “grader” can be made with a homemade blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, the drawings are given below.
A blade shovel is an element of attachments used in conjunction with a walk-behind tractor. With its help, you can mechanize such common work on the land as garbage collection, snow removal in winter, as well as leveling the surface of the earth and moving it from one place to another. 
Dumping shovels have various modifications, but in general they are characterized by the general principle of operation and design. As a rule, they have several typical working positions. Typically these are the following three provisions:
- forward
- to the left (with a slope of 30 degrees)
- to the right (with a slope of 30 degrees)
Working with a blade for a walk-behind tractor
Before starting work, the shovel blade of the walk-behind tractor is manually rotated left and right at an angle of up to 30 degrees. The position adjustment operation is completed by setting the desired angle and securing the blade in the selected position with cotter pins.
The width of the blade shovel for a walk-behind tractor is usually one meter (some models may have a different value) with a metal thickness of the bucket from 2 to 3 mm. In the factory, dump shovels are made from high-quality steel.
Blade for walk-behind tractor device and equipment
Shovels for walk-behind tractors can be equipped with metal blade attachments, which are convenient for leveling the ground, as well as rubber attachments designed for removing snow.
Since there is a wide selection of modifications of shovel dumps, when choosing such an attachment, be sure to make sure that the device can be installed on an existing walk-behind tractor.
Manufacturers do not equip walk-behind shovels with spring damping mechanisms, since due to the low speed of movement, special protection against contact with an uneven ground surface is not required. The walk-behind tractor does not need lifting and turning devices, which significantly reduces the total cost of the snow removal kit.
When equipping your walk-behind tractor with accessories for snow removal, buy special metal lugs. Replacing pneumatic wheels with such “shoes” significantly improves the quality of snow removal.
Prices for mounted shovels and dumps for walk-behind tractors are low and range from 4,000 to 6,000 rubles.
How to make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands
Making a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands is not at all difficult if you have an angle grinder, a drill and a welding machine in your household.
Here is one of the simple options for such a product for owners of walk-behind tractors. You won’t have to search for a suitable metal for a long time, since you can use a regular two-hundred-liter steel barrel for this.
Carefully cut it into thirds and you will have three curved segments for the shovel. By welding two of them along the contour, we get a product with a metal thickness of three millimeters, which is quite enough to ensure the rigidity of the blade.
The lower part of the blade is reinforced with a knife. To do this, you will need a steel strip 5 mm thick and a length equal to the blade grip. Holes with a diameter of 5-6 mm are drilled in the knife in increments of 10-12 cm to secure the rubber safety strip.
The design of fastening the blade to the walk-behind tractor is quite simple and can easily be implemented in a home workshop. In this case, a square pipe 40x40 mm is welded to the blade, welded from two segments of the barrel, approximately in the middle of its height for reinforcement. Then a semicircle made of thick steel is welded to the pipe in the middle, in which there are three holes necessary to fix the angles of rotation of the blade shovel.
After this, an L-shaped holder is welded from the same pipe, one end of which is inserted into a hole in a semicircle, and the other is bolted to the walk-behind tractor frame. To adjust the lifting height of the shovel, bolts A and B are used. They are screwed into holes in a section of square pipe, which is welded to the coupling device and put on an L-shaped holder.
Do-it-yourself shovel blade for walk-behind tractor
The size of our shovel blade for a walk-behind tractor will be 850x220x450mm. The blade itself is made of steel sheet 2-3 mm thick. The racks located inside are made of sheet metal 3-4 mm thick and serve as stiffeners.
Holes are drilled into them locally for attaching the blade to the rods, taking into account the strictly vertical position of the blade in relation to the front of the walk-behind tractor.
- 1 – dump sheet (tin);
- 2 – 4 pcs stand (stiffening ribs);
- 3 – bottom sheet of the dump (tin);
- 4 – knife;
- 5 – linkage mounting eye.
The bracket for securing the blade is installed on the legs of the walk-behind tractor, to which the base of the front folding support of the walk-behind tractor is attached, and the same M10 bolts are used. Rods 520 mm long are attached to the brackets with M8 bolts and wing nuts, which are attached to the blade stiffeners.
Holes are drilled in the internal stiffening ribs (a stand 3-4 mm thick) to fasten the blade to the rods so that the blade is located in a vertical position in relation to the walk-behind tractor. The blade is additionally fixed on the walk-behind tractor by means of two adjusting rods: in the non-working position, they make it possible to unload the brackets. A knife measuring 3x100x850 mm is bolted to the lower part of the blade.
- 1 – dump;
- 2 – rod;
- 3 – bracket;
- 4 – traction.
The bottom of the dump is lined with tin to prevent it from being buried in the ground. The width (depth) of the bottom can be made smaller than shown in the drawing. With a blade height of 450mm and a depth of 220mm, it looks more like a bucket.
Taking these recommendations as a basis and experimenting with sizes will help you make a shovel blade for different walk-behind tractors: Neva, Salyut, etc. Then snow removal with a walk-behind tractor will become an easy and enjoyable task for you.
Homemade knife blade for walk-behind tractor drawing
Do-it-yourself plow on a walk-behind tractor video collection
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Driving to the site after a week of snowfall... Anyone who has experienced this will understand what I mean. Finding myself in such a situation, I found an unexpected way out.
There was an old one standing on my site, made from what I had, and there were several metal corners and sheets of 12 mm plywood. And after some calculations and measurements, the first version of the snow plow was born (photo 1).
Its design is extremely simple, the main thing in it is the wedge-shaped shape and weight. The wedge is needed so that the car does not drift from side to side on a narrow road, and the weight is needed so that it does not block additional fasteners and structures. The principle of operation is simple: you attach it to the car and off you go, installation on the car takes no more than 5 minutes.
Ideally, such a scraper requires an SUV with a frame, but for an ordinary passenger car, I think, this design can be used, the main thing is to find where it is safe to mount it. I attached it to two eyelets for towing (photo 2), but I also considered attaching it to the engine protection as an option, especially since most cars have it.
At the top under the hood there is a chain that is attached to the hood latch. This lifting mechanism for the structure is activated when turning or if you need to drive back. Of course, the system can be supplemented, but technically it is more difficult; True, you will be able to control the snow plow directly from the inside of the car.
During operation, the design was modified several times (lowered for greater stability). I also additionally installed vertical posts with spacers to increase rigidity.
However, after several clearings, piles of snow appear along the edges of the road, interfering with cleaning. The design had to be supplemented with “ears” made from the remains of the laminate, attaching them at a slight angle. The cleaning efficiency immediately increased, the road can be cleaned much wider and cleaner.
Probably many will think: why is all this? The answer is simple. Having spent about 2 hours making the structure, now I spend 30 minutes clearing a completely snow-covered road (which is about 800 m). Everyone chooses for themselves - regularly pay for the services of a tractor driver to clear the road, shelling out 3-4 thousand rubles, or buy a snow plow made at the factory for 80-100 thousand rubles. or, having spent about 5-6 thousand rubles, enjoy the work done!
Also, continuing the topic, we read how to equip your car with a special attachment
Each snow plow usually consists of three parts:
- Snow bucket
- Swivel mechanism
- Mounting unit
In addition, to prevent damage and deformation of the bucket and vehicle fastenings, spring-forward devices are installed. To protect the surface of the area from damage by the sharp edge of a snow shovel, rubber bands are mounted on it.
SUV blade
On almost any SUV, such as a Niva, UAZ, or a foreign car, it is possible to manually install a snow plow, which allows you to save space for storing such a device, as well as facilitate its installation due to its collapsible design.
The snow removal mechanism is controlled directly from the vehicle’s cabin thanks to an electric winch, which is usually included in the kit. You can also adjust the angle of rotation of the shovel based on the thickness and density of the snow cover that needs to be removed.
Snow plow for ATVs and walk-behind tractors
In order to choose the right blade-type mechanism, you need to clarify the model of the ATV itself and, based on this, select an installation kit, after which you select a subframe, a lifting device and a shovel.
There are two types of installation kits: front and center mount. The peculiarity of a snow blower, consisting of a suspended bucket and an ATV, is that their efficiency is high only when removing a small and soft layer of snow on the site.
The distinctive quality of the tandem moldboard shovel and walk-behind tractor is its affordable price, simplicity of design and high maneuverability. When using such a device, you do not have to worry about damaging the coating, since the operating speed is not as high as in previous cases. Eliminates frequent damage to the blade due to the absence of rotary and spring-return mechanisms.
