Today we will talk about how to make a real ATV out of a motorcycle, walk-behind tractor or moped with your own hands. We will also consider drawings, diagrams and methods for assembling a homemade ATV from scrap materials in the garage
From a motorcycle like the "Ural" - this is a large, bulky, heavy and "gluttonous" beast, has an excellent four-stroke engine with reverse gear and costs "penny". For this reason, it is much cheaper and more fun for enthusiasts to create their own designs of these SUVs.
Before you start assembling, you need to make a detailed list of the units and parts that will be needed to create your own brainchild, develop a work plan and a design drawing.
It is logical that first of all it is necessary to find the “heart” of the future ATV - the power unit. Absolutely anything will do, from a regular walk-behind tractor to a six-liter V12 - there are such precedents. In most cases, motorcycle engines are used - they are economical and small-sized.
To use high gear ratios under normal operating conditions, a Minsk or Ural engine will be sufficient.
In summer, the issue of overheating arises, so you should choose air-cooled models. Another good option is Soviet-made boxer engines, the undeniable advantage of which is powerful traction and a completely unpretentious cardan drive.
There are two most common rear suspension solutions for ATVs.
Gear-cardan system. The design turns out to be as lightweight and simple as possible, but there is no differential, which, in principle, can be sacrificed for the sake of the previously mentioned advantages.
Using a road bridge. The design turns out to be extremely heavy, and if there is no desire to have an ATV with a car base, it is necessary to shorten the bridge, which is a very non-trivial task. The only advantage worth highlighting is the presence of a differential, which is useful when driving on highways.
There are huge possibilities for front suspension and steering. ATV suspension arms carry significantly less load than automobile ones; accordingly, they can be made independently, using available means. The best option is to create a suspension based on the existing Ural motorcycle.
Ideally, remove the frame from the donor motorcycle and add the necessary elements - this eliminates a number of problems, but the design may turn out to be unnecessarily complex.
Having prepared the necessary tools, donor vehicles and freed up time, you can begin to create your own ATV:
We assemble the frame (frame). We connect the prepared metal beams, according to the drawing, to each other using spot welding. We check the structure and carry out full welding. Alternatively, you can simply remake the frame from the donor motorcycle - it will turn out no worse.
We install the engine. It can be placed both at the rear and at the front - the main thing is to secure it firmly with bolts to the bottom of the frame.
We mount the drive and transmission on the rear wheels. The drive does not need to be created independently - it is transferred together with the engine from the donor vehicle and installed on the frame. Again, it is necessary to properly secure the drive and transmission to the frame to prevent play.
We also install the steering from the motorcycle. Along with the steering wheel, the fuel tank also “migrates” to the ATV. In general, if you imagine the design, it will look like this: 3/4 of the ATV is the same Ural or another motorcycle, 1/4 is a homemade frame and suspension. .
We install wheels from a small-sized vehicle (Oka or ZAZ-968). The rear wheels can go to the ATV together with the rear axle of the car, or they can be attached as follows: we take ready-made axles with disks, after which we attach a gearbox to the rear one for drive. and install wheels on the rims
We assemble a single drive with a gearbox on the rear axle and an engine (again, it will be easier if it is completely rearranged from the donor vehicle). We do this as follows: we stretch the chain from the engine to the gearbox and secure it, after which we check the functionality. Ultimately, we fix the entire structure on the frame.
The front suspension is independent - this is more profitable in terms of time and money, since an all-wheel drive ATV requires significant modification of this unit by a professional turner, welder and electrician, which will take a lot of time. As an option, we purchase ready-made factory components for ATVs.
Thanks to its reliable, time-tested design, excellent power and traction, the Ural motorcycle is the most popular donor for homemade ATVs.
Frame.
ATV frame specification:
Material: 2.5 x 2.5 square profile
Total length: 130 cm
Overall height: 74 cm (seating level)
Overall height: 84 cm (handlebar level)
Wheelbase: 105 cm
Distance between axles: 70.5 cm
Axis tilt: 14 degrees
Track (distance from the outer edge of the tire to the outer edge of the other): front: 105 cm; rear: 112 cm
Ground clearance: 7 inches (with 16-inch rear wheels)
Materials:
Square profile:
2.5x2.5 square profile - 9.75 meters
Pipes:
1.22 meters – 1 x .065 (inches)
1.22 meters – 3/4 x .065
0.3048 meters – 3/4 x .125
0.915 meters – 5/8 x .125
0.61 meters – 1/2 x .083 T6 aluminum tube
Rental:
0.61 meters - 1 x 3/16 (inches)
0.915 meters – 1 1/4 x 1/4
0.61 meters – 5 x 1/8 (plate for mounting engine and suspension)
You will also need spring shock absorbers for the rear and front suspensions.
Engine for ATV:
Now you need to securely mount the engine to the frame. The engine is best used from a moped. Once bolted to the frame, connect the motor shaft to the gear on the rear axle with a simple chain drive. After this, route all engine controls to the handlebars and secure the pedals and levers to your frame.
It is best and easiest to make parts of an ATV body kit or body from fiberglass. After manufacturing on wooden or plasticine blanks, the elements of the aerodynamic body kit are adjusted relative to each other, sanded and then painted in the desired color, after which they are attached to the ATV frame. Ideas, as well as some ready-made elements, for example from a broken car (of course, if you have them in stock), external body kit options can be taken from any production models.
Important:
Remember that in order to operate an ATV on public roads, you will need to register it with the State Traffic Safety Inspectorate, where it is necessary to register any vehicles with an engine of more than 50 cc and a maximum design speed of more than 50 km/h. Therefore, we recommend not using engines with a volume of more than fifty cubic centimeters.
The ATV frame is welded using round pipes, angles and square profiles. It is advisable to use elements of various mopeds and motorcycles, because it is there that pipes with high strength are used. Never use water pipes. They do not have the necessary strength and can crack at any time. Then we weld the mounting brackets and secure the engine to the frame. It is better to make your first ATV from a moped engine
Even your children will like it, who will simply be delighted with it. The fact is that children's gasoline-powered ATVs are a great toy for every child. After all, it does not develop enormous speeds, but the guys will have more than enough emotions from overcoming rough terrain. Next, we connect the engine shaft to the rear axle gear using a chain.
We install the ATV control mechanisms on the steering column, and attach the pedals and levers to the frame. The power and ignition system is taken from the same moped model from which we took the engine. Over time, they can be improved and finalized within reasonable limits, of course. You can choose a motorcycle fuel tank of the appropriate size. Do not forget also the point that in the question of how to make an ATV, you need to carefully work through each stage. Therefore, installing a battery on such a machine is simply necessary.
You also need parts to assemble the ATV:
1 - rims from a scooter tourist or ant
2 - tires for a walk-behind tractor 10 inches and wider 4.5 or 5.0
3 - profile pipe 15*15. 17*17. 20*20. 25*25.
4 - bearing 306 – 12 pieces
5 - external CV joint VAZ 2109-08 16 pieces of which 4 are new, 4 are used, but working, and 8 can be killed (for any hundred in scrap metal) and 8 anthers.
6 - engine from a moped of at least 150 cc. for example, a Viper Storm in a place with wiring with an ignition switch wheel and a silencer
7 - reinforced ant scooter gearbox (all shafts on bearings)
8 - four drive sprockets with 21 teeth and two new chains
9 - ball joints with Renault 21 on any disassembly shaft and a penny
10 - reaction rod of the rear axle (short) with 2101, 6 pieces needed
11 - a bunch of different bolts, cutting wheels and electrodes, well, that’s all along the way
12 - Yamaha Aprio scooter shock absorbers - 4 pcs from Honda Lead 2 pcs and another 8 dead shock absorbers from any Japanese mopeds (we will cut off the ears from them)
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In winter, it is easy to convert an ATV by replacing the rear wheels with pneumatic ones and installing a steering ski in front; the car thus turns into a snowmobile, and the transformation takes less than an hour. The use of available materials in the manufacture of an all-terrain vehicle and the simplicity of the design may well ensure the repeatability of the machine even in a home workshop.
The MTS frame is made of round pipes, square profiles and angles. Its feature is detachable connections that allow you to remove the steering column assembly when installing the engine, as well as the front axle beam. Each of the connectors consists of a conventional “plumbing” coupling, a drive and a lock nut.
To tension the chain connecting the engine to the gearbox, the motor frame (part of the frame of the Minsk motorcycle) moves; the axle of the rear wheels with bearings also has the ability to move in the longitudinal direction, which allows you to adjust the tension of the second chain connecting the gearbox to the rear axle. The front and rear fenders are removable (they are absent in the snowmobile version). The joining of frame elements was carried out by electric welding.
The engine of the motor vehicle is from a Minsk motorcycle; I have no comments on its operation. It is, of course, possible to install more powerful engines - from the Voskhod motorcycle or the Tula scooter; you just need to adjust the frame dimensions for them. The choice of the “Minsk” engine was due to its efficiency and low weight. Its power turned out to be quite sufficient for traveling on a snowmobile with a passenger; it is also possible to tow a skier or sled. The starting properties of the engine are quite satisfactory both in summer and winter.
The directional control of the summer version of the motor vehicle is provided by turning the front wheels using two rods; for the winter version there is a lever and a rod connecting it to the ski fork. The latter is borrowed from a moped. The front axle is from the SZD motorized stroller, although somewhat reduced: sections of its beams are cut out and the central parts (with the torsion bar mounting bolt) are welded to the peripheral ones (with the bushings of the suspension arms). In the winter version, the levers, steering knuckles, rods and torsion bars are dismantled.
The steering wheel is from a Tourist scooter; it fits perfectly with the steering shaft with an M10 bolt. The controls are standard, motorcycle ones. The brake lever is connected by a cable to brake pads mounted on the gearbox.
Gearbox. Its basis was the rear wheel hub of the Tula-200 scooter, to which a sprocket was welded on the brake drum side. The rear axle is driven by a chain with a pitch of 19 mm. The transmission brake allows you to significantly simplify the design of the rear axle. The sprocket is fixed on the axle with an M14 bolt; the hubs of the running wheels are fastened in the same way, as shown in the drawings. As the base of the gearbox, you can use not only the wheel hub of the “Tourist”, but also other motor vehicles.
The axle of the drive wheels is a rod with a diameter of 30 mm; its ends are machined to Ø25 mm, and turned hubs are put on these places. The wheels are used from a motorized stroller measuring 5.00X10.0. Winter wheels are of the usual design for pneumatic tires on low-pressure tires: with plywood disks, aluminum supports and inner tube fastening with belts. The axle bearings are double-row; they have conical inserts with nuts that secure the axle well and do not require high precision machining.
More information about ATVs can be found at this link:
Optional equipment. This includes front and rear trunks, headlights, turn signals and brake lights; their attachment points are shown in the figures.
The design of the all-terrain vehicle is simple; it can be made in literally a few days in a fairly primitive workshop - of course, if all the component parts are available. And the possibilities for using such a machine are the widest: as a winch when plowing a vegetable garden, to drive a circular saw, like a simple garden tractor (excellent cross-country ability on arable land, so cultivation, hilling, etc. is possible). In addition, you can increase cross-country ability by installing twin rear wheels. You can also mount a reverse gearbox from a SZA motorized stroller, in which the differential is replaced by a shaft, and then the all-terrain vehicle will receive reverse gear. There is no wear of the tires due to the lack of a differential, and this does not affect handling.
How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has mastered welding and turning. The effort and time spent are paid off not only by large savings, but also by the result obtained - an exclusive, original model of a quadric that no one else has.
Features of assembling a homemade vehicle highly depend on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by the craftsman.
6 best options for a base (“donor”) for those who have set the goal of how to make an ATV.
- Motorcycle "Ural".
- Motorcycle "Izh".
- Motor scooter "Ant".
- Another motor scooter (scooter).
- Car "Niva".
- Oka car.
Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.
In addition to the parts (components) for the quadric, its creator will need:
- assembly “shop” - a fairly spacious garage equipped with good heating and lighting will be useful in this capacity;
- a set of equipment and tools;
- blueprints.
You may also be interested in our specialist’s article, which talks about how to make.
Preparation for work, tools and equipment
First of all, you need to carefully consider when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycling in nature, transporting goods, etc. It is on this basis that you need to make a choice of a “donor” vehicle, deciding how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.
You can take ready-made drawings from the Internet, create them from scratch yourself, or combine both options and ready to remake them at your own discretion.
List of required tools:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- a set of keys;
- various small tools - calipers, hammer, knife, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
To make your own frame, you will also need equipment for bending pipes. If you don’t have one, you can rent it or outsource the necessary work to another craftsman. Only with remarkable skill can you bend the pipes manually by heating the bend with a gas cutter or torch.
Quad components:
- engine;
- frame;
- rear and front suspension;
- steering;
- brake system;
- cooling system;
- muffler;
- electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
- body, body kit
It is quite possible to make a muffler yourself. Everything else is to purchase used parts on the shadow market.
Parts selection
ATV frame
Depending on the “donor” and the design of the quad, you either have to make the frame yourself, or you can reconstruct a finished, used one.
The most important thing is that the engine is securely bolted to the bottom along the frame, which can be located either front or rear. The transmission and drive should also be firmly attached to the frame to avoid play.
The material used is ordinary water and gas pipes with a wall thickness of no more than 3 mm:
- for spars - 25 mm;
- for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.
The pipes are connected using spot welding, followed by solid welding. Ears for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - during the installation of units and components.
Reconstruction of an existing frame
To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the back part and build up the front. Then weld elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing a motorcycle frame, the seatposts should be moved back by 40 - 45 cm.
The front and rear luggage racks are cut out of a metal sheet and welded to the frame. Finally, the finished frame is painted; there is no need to varnish it.
Engine
The engine is suitable for a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some “Lefties” even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which in heavy devices reaches 15 “horses” - versus 11 hp. "Ant."
The engine of a scooter has the advantage of low fuel consumption; in addition, the scooter-based quad is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when stuck in mud and sand. But a quad to transport cargo and/or drive off-road requires a more powerful engine.
The engine power of the Izh-1, Izh-2 and Izh Jupiter is 24 hp, the old Ural is 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old Oka is 35 hp. , a three-cylinder car of a later release - 53.
To travel in hot weather, the ATV needs a cooled engine. Cooling was not installed on older motorcycles, so you will have to pick it up (for example, from a VAZ 2108 will do) and install it.
The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front one from a motorcycle.
2 rear suspension options:
- The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of a quad. The advantage is the presence of a differential. Disadvantage - the design will be heavier.
- Cardan-gear design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.
Please note: the quad all-terrain vehicle requires an independent suspension with high ground clearance.
The suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.
The front suspension strut must be tilted, otherwise the ATV may roll over.
The shock absorbers are suitable from Izha, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil shock absorbers with pumping, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.
Steering and chassis
The steering system of an ATV can be either based on a car - with a steering wheel, or with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle handlebars, levers and shafts at the top, car tie rods at the bottom. It is advisable to take the fuel tank along with the motorcycle handlebars.
A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A travel limiter must be installed at the bottom.
When making a quad on a car base, it is better to replace a gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.
The input shafts from the gearbox must be directed directly to the rear and front axles.
The wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs (“Oka” or “Niva”) and are shod with tires that correspond to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The brake system is selected depending on the wheels. The steering knuckles are also from Niva or Oka.
Four-wheel drive
If you choose a four-wheel drive vehicle, vehicle steering, differentials, and a manual transmission are required.
The existing frame will not fit in this case; a new one should be welded to suit the engine size.
The suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. On the front it is necessary to provide space for installing the gearbox.
Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. An alternative option is to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - it costs money.
Frame
Making the body is far from the easiest stage of the story, called: “how to assemble an ATV with your own hands.” Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass; it is easier to make a body kit from the second.
First, you need to draw, cut and construct a “blank” of the body from pieces of durable foam plastic, glued or fastened with polyurethane foam. Then apply several layers of fiberglass on it, coating each with epoxy resin and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the body to the frame. In conclusion, dry the body thoroughly, then prime, sand and paint.
We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next machine he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...
A year of work of 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, only minor (and I would say pleasant) modifications remained: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.
DIY Oka ATV
The power unit for my homemade ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooled. And if its power was often not enough for a car, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.The machine frame is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of side members: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. I bent the pipes on a pipe bender, “cold”. Eyes (pairs of ears) for attaching suspension arms and shock absorbers were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets were welded as components and assemblies were installed (in “place”).
All-terrain vehicle transmission- peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the Oka the engine is located transversely, while on an ATV it is installed lengthwise. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. It’s just that the power unit itself, interlocked with the clutch “basket” and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly VAZ models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be modified. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, I removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gear shift rod was also made different - extended, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be locked in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gear shift lever is on the left.
Interwheel gearboxes- from the rear axles of the VAZ “classic”, only their axle shafts along with the “stockings” were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are also used as hinges in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.
There are no low gears or differential locks.
Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at the lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in a shape resembling the letter “T”. At the edge of the “rack” there is a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the tie rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The bipod lugs are bent down slightly so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
ATV wheels- 15-inch, from a Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with the appropriate landing diameter dimensions 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel running diameter is about 660 mm.
The wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka"(rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front arms - from a VAZ-2109 car. Both had to be modified. I installed studs for Niva wheels in the hubs, and homemade swing arms in the front knuckles.
The muffler is homemade, two-section. To protect the body kit from temperature warping, I covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
DIY ATV body kit
ATV body kit with your own hands - fiberglass. I glued it in for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a square steel pipe with a cross-section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with your hands over your knee. The contour was welded to the frame using jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit) the “tacks” could be easily cut off. Then I bent “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I attached separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was made with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same polystyrene foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it cuts well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.
DIY ATV drawings
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DIY ATV frame drawings
The false tank is of complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic film, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry out inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw out the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.
Part of the Oka dashboard was used under the instrument panel. I secured it to the blank also using polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-porous, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I coated the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.
So, the blockhead is ready and to glue a high-quality product, it was required: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass fabric, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly advisable to wear breathing protection. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable they are. But, as you know, you can’t buy experience, so I gained it in the process of work.
I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. The whole idiot covered it with stripes carefully, without any omissions. It only took 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
I diluted the resin in 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before this, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases would lie on flat surfaces, and on uneven surfaces, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.
First, I thickly coated one area of the blockhead with epoxy resin, placed fiberglass on it and impregnated the top with resin again. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.
After covering the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to cover it with glass mat. The fiberglass mat I got was quite thick, and it turned out to be good for gaining the thickness of the product. But it does not hug uneven surfaces, so I used it only on flat (or slightly sloping) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. Just keep in mind that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate glass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, uneven surfaces were glued in several layers with cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day of break it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin cures completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even just one layer.
Since I needed the surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and I didn’t have enough experience, dips and holes still remained - I filled them with resin alone, and with pieces of fiberglass applied on others. There wasn't enough resin. I already bought more at the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more because it was already packaged, and all I had to do was mix the ingredients. And it dried faster than the one purchased from the company.
After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands while picking, he separated the product piece by piece without much effort from the blockhead.
Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work using “all” technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstakingly filling the recesses with putty and fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. Finally - metallic painting and varnish coating with a plasticizer.
The blockhead also carefully cut it off and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded “in place” mounts on the frame.
Finally, I welded front and rear luggage racks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kangaroo bars” that replaced the bumpers.
DIY ATV video
Today the cost of an IZh motorcycle is quite low. Garage kulibins are constantly posting new diagrams and videos on how. But when getting ready to assemble an all-terrain vehicle, you need to decide on the donor model, since several modifications have been released.
The production of the IZH motorcycle began in the late 20s of the 20th century. Then, in one year, the plant produced five models at once with serial numbers from 1 to 5. Moreover, they differed significantly from each other. The most popular models at that time were the IZH-1 and IZH-2 models, which were equipped with a 24 hp V-engine. With. and a volume of 1.2 liters. These were the first motorcycles with a crankshaft located along the body and a three-speed gearbox that spun the rear wheel. There was a muffler at the bottom of the frame. IZH-2 was equipped with an air fan and a drive to the sidecar wheel.
The next few years there was no such mass production of motorcycles, but work was constantly being done to improve the internals and external design. Until 1946, the plant had accumulated a large number of drawings from Germany, as a result of which there was a significant jump in production. A couple of years after this, a new model IZH-350S appeared. It had a telescopic front suspension, the rear part received oil shock absorbers with springs. The engine had 14 horsepower.
In the mid-80s, they began to produce IZH-Jupiter-5. They were widely known and very popular at that time. This model was reliable and comfortable, although the engine power was slightly reduced. In addition, this motorcycle had an emergency start button.
Assembling an all-terrain vehicle from IZH
There are no fundamental differences between the IL-based models and other models. Initially, you need to draw up a drawing or find it on the Internet. This will allow you to clearly understand the plan for future work. After all, to assemble an ATV you need to have the skills of a welder, turner and designer.
ATV frame
To make an ATV, the Izhov frame needs to be slightly altered. To do this, you need to move the drains under the saddle by 4 cm, and remove the rear ones altogether. Then bevels should be made from them. You also need to get rid of the rear fork. The most important point in assembling an ATV is installing the engine on the frame.
After connecting the internal combustion engine, you should combine its shaft and the rear axle gear using a chain drive. Then you need to bring the power unit control unit to the steering wheel. Then proceed to install the pedals and levers on the frame.
ATV suspension
After this, you can begin to install the pendants. For it they use parts from VAZ or Oka. It is recommended to use used parts, as they will not be very rigid. The body kit can be taken from old cars or Izha. Many people like steering wheel controls from a car rather than a motorcycle. In this case, you need to purchase a mechanism for this.
Steering
If the ATV will be controlled by the steering wheel of a motorcycle, then for these purposes you can use parts from that Izh. The main point in any vehicle is the braking system. You can take it from your car - it will be more reliable. Wheels of different sizes will help improve the aesthetic appearance. To make the wings and skin of the ATV, you can use rolled sheets, which can later be painted.
Characteristics
Gasoline consumption and overall dimensions of the ATV depend on the selected donor model. Approximately the all-terrain vehicle converted from Izh will be 168 cm long, 1.03 cm high and 1.1 cm wide. The curb weight is approximately 190 kilograms, and fuel consumption ranges from 4 to 7 liters per 100 kilometers.
ATVs are becoming more and more popular due to their lightness, maneuverability, high cross-country ability and at the same time compactness. Indeed, an ATV is something between an all-terrain vehicle and a motorcycle. Just like an all-terrain vehicle, it has high cross-country ability; it can be used for traveling over rough terrain, off-road, in the mountains or forest, but at the same time, unlike a motorcycle, an ATV is more stable.
Homemade all-wheel drive ATVs are our answer to expensive equipment
An ATV is not cheap, and not everyone can afford it. But constructing a homemade 4x4 ATV is quite simple; you just need old parts from a car or motorcycle, a little imagination and a great desire. By the way, all-wheel drive ATVs are more popular because of their cross-country ability and cross-country ability.
Where to start to assemble an ATV with your own hands?
You can find many forums or conversion sites on the Internet that tell and explain step by step how to build, so finding information on this subject is not that difficult. It is much more difficult to parse drawings, especially if you do not have the necessary skills. But without drawings, it is impossible to build a homemade all-wheel drive ATV, in principle, like any other equipment. So if you dream of cutting through the terrain on a self-assembled ATV, you will have to deal with the drawings. Well, if you have a technical education and you know exactly how machine components work, you can build your own drawing to make unique equipment.
ATV transmission diagram:
Oka, ZAZ, Ural or Minsk are often used as the basis for ATVs, but those spare parts that you have lying around like trash in your garage are also suitable. Some spare parts will still have to be purchased, but it is still much more profitable to build than to purchase a ready-made one. And in the event of a breakdown, find spare parts for your team from VAZ, Ural, etc. an ATV will be much easier than using expensive imported equipment.
