The familiar GAZ 69 served for the benefit of the people for a long time. This is a bit of an all-terrain vehicle that needed a change. The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant began preparing the release of a new car, which replaced this all-terrain vehicle.

History of the creation of bridges on the UAZ

Front and rear UAZ axle

The task was serious and difficult, but they still began to solve it. The main customer for such transport was the Ministry of Defense. The military wanted to have a vehicle that could be lightweight, off-road, dynamic, and capable of moving where only a tank could do it. But at the same time, it should be inexpensive, easy to use, technologically advanced, and have simple repairs. There was also a need for such cars in the national economy, due to the fact that the roads left much to be desired.

The designers created two bridges: civil and military. They are installed on UAZ-produced vehicles.

Civil bridges are called “collective farm” bridges. Fixed on such vehicles as “loaf”, “tadpole”, “goat”, long and classic, “farmer”.

The military bridge is a geared, two-stage, U-shaped bridge. They are installed on some samples of “goats” with an indicator of 0.3X. The new “goats” (316*) are equipped with axles of the “spicer”, “leopard” (3159*) and 316* type with a raised track - elongated military ones, geared with extended stockings.

Distinctive features of UAZ with military bridges

The military bridge has final drives. This makes it possible to increase the vehicle's ground clearance. They are reliable, since the main pair has larger teeth, but their quantitative composition is smaller than that of civilian bridges.

This is what military bridges look like

The purpose of military bridges is that they are able to move effortlessly through mud and deep ruts. Therefore, the additional ground clearance of the military bridge of 8 cm made it possible for such vehicles to move off-road. The increased torque in off-road conditions was also a huge plus and help. The speed of such a vehicle, especially on the highway, is reduced, and a vehicle with a military bridge will not be able to accelerate more than 90 km/h. The UAZ is not intended for road racing; it exists for driving on broken roads.

There are myths created by car enthusiasts themselves regarding noise, coasting, speed limits, and consumption of military bridges:

1. A UAZ vehicle can move at a fairly high speed if its axle parts are of high quality assembly and the main connections are well secured.
2. Only a faulty front or rear axle of a car can make noise, regardless of whether it is military or not.
3. Military bridges have excellent run-up. Regardless of its type, only a non-working one can have difficulty with the coast.
4. Military personnel can be much more economical than collective farm bridges. Consumption is entirely determined by the high-quality operation of the engine and the serviceability of the bridge.

The diametric steering rod is straight and short, it is located from one wheel to the other. This detail of the military man cannot be replaced by the draft from the collective farmer. You can buy a “warrior” without automatic traction on the front axle.

A rod purchased separately must be attached before rolling in the axle so that the hubs do not move apart later.

Our automotive industry produces two types of steering bipods: the first in Yekaterinburg, the second in Nizhny Novgorod. This spare part is installed in the left steering knuckle.

The bipod is made of solid metal, by milling, without welding elements. If a new bipod is installed, you don’t need to think that the steering forces will change, they remain optimal. During the installation process, the bipod is cleaned, lubricated and fasteners are tightened in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions for adjusting UAZ vehicles.

Features of brake shields and subtleties

When the front axle requires repairs, you need to pay attention to the brake shields.

The front and rear shields of military and civilian bridges are different from each other. Military ones can be installed on collective farm bridges, and the latter can only be modified.

Distinctive features of shields:

1. The closest mounting hole of the collective farmer is located exactly under the brake cylinder; the brake assembly of the military bridge does not have such accuracy and is located between the holes. The brake disc will move a little to the side and down; when pumping, a particle of air remains in the corner of the cylinder, and difficulties will arise.
2. Landing hole. Their dimensions on the bridges are the same, but the landing is slightly different; in this case, the collective farm bridge will rest against the sides of the axle.
3. Stamping. The military bridge has a positive offset of 4 mm. The central plane is 4 mm lower than the outer side. If the “collective farm” is installed in place of the “warrior”, the brake drum will jam on the brake shield. In a UAZ car with a military bridge, the landing center will be lower than the outer side by the same 4 mm.

The clearance of the improved UAZ has increased significantly

Many car enthusiasts dream of such an SUV. But to buy it, be it new or used, you need to pay attention to such subtleties as:

• year of production, color version, mileage, price;
• technical condition of the car body: corrosion, use of anticorrosive;
• car roof inspection. which will help you find out whether it is factory made or remade with your own hands;
• bridge category: gearbox, “collective farmer” or “spicer”;
• the amount of fuel and oil consumption for the engine;
• suspension type: leaf spring, spring;
• power steering;
• the seller’s opinion about the condition of his car;
• car tuning;
• issue with license plates, chassis and engine license plates;
• the presence of other UAZ car owners with a military bridge;
• PTS - registration at the place of residence;
• admissibility of deregistration/registration.

All this information can be obtained by calling the car owner who is going to sell the car.

The right choice when purchasing

Inspection of UAZ cars with military bridges in the parking lot when making a choice to purchase a used car.

A large number of faults can be eliminated without any effort or consequences - spare parts for such vehicles can always be found at dismantling yards, in car shops and markets. When checking, the engine should start and there should be no blue or black exhaust from the pipe. Listening to the engine in different operating modes, paying attention to noises and squeaks is a must. You need to look for oil leaks under the engine - it should be dry under the car.

A thorough diagnosis is required before purchasing

The lubrication system is checked using a dipstick; the oil cannot contain additives or formations. The top-up level is maximum.

The cooling system is checked by fixing the liquid in the conservator. The appearance of the radiator and engine must be free of smudges and stains. The temperature of the motor is kept at a constant level.

To evaluate the generator, you need to press the gas pedal at idle. Based on the indicators, you can judge the mileage of the car. If the mileage is long, more than 80,000 km, then it is simply necessary to check the compression. It is advisable to perform this procedure when the engine is shaking or pulling poorly. You can compare readings using the operating instructions.

The corrosiveness of the body plays a huge role for the driver who has decided to purchase a UAZ with military axles.

Connections to the floor, swivel brackets, windshield frames, plastic suspension, space under the pedals, sills where small debris and condensation accumulate, rear light body skirt - all this can be found when buying a used UAZ car.

Steering device - check for play and jamming on site. There can be no noise or squeaks when changing gears; the gearbox must allow you to engage gears without them falling out.

The pivots should be without play; to check, you need to rock the front wheels by the top.

Checking the brakes is to ensure that when you press the pedal they work in a certain mode; the car should not skid to the side.

Cardan play may appear when it rotates. Otherwise there can be no play. Anyone can buy a UAZ, but not everyone will understand how to repair it and what spare parts are needed for this.

general information

Front axle

CV joint

Pivot unit

Clutches "ELMO", "STELM", "Rus", etc.

Rear axle

• Rear axle design and repair (Timken)

Interwheel locks

Hubs

Tuning of bridges. Refinement of UAZ bridges. Non-standard bridges on UAZ

Other information about bridges

A military bridge differs from a regular bridge by the presence of final drives. Due to the presence of gearboxes, the bridge is raised relative to the wheel axis by 4 cm, which increases the vehicle's ground clearance (the distance from the ground to the bottom point of the bridge). That’s why military bridges are called “U-shaped” (the bridge is like the crossbar of a letter, with wheels attached to the right and left of the letter). The torque does not fall entirely on the main pair (as on civil bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and the gearboxes. Due to this, the main pair is smaller in size (the military axle housing “hangs” 4 cm less than the civilian axle). The main pair has fewer teeth and they are larger - this increases the reliability of military bridges compared to civilian ones. The gear ratio of military axles is 5.38 (=2.77*1.94 - the gear ratios of the main and final drives, respectively) - more high-torque, but less "high-speed" than that of conventional axles.
The rear driveshaft for military axles is 1 cm shorter than for civilian ones! What is the gear ratio of civil bridges?

Until July 1989, civil axles were equipped with a main pair with a gear ratio of 5.125 (41 teeth), now - with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), i.e., more “fast” but less “powerful”. You can find both in stores. You will most likely have to replace the “new” with the “old” main pair when installing very large wheels. It is recommended to replace the main pairs only as a complete set (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be turned on exclusively in mud, snow, sand, etc., so as not to damage the transfer case or spoil the tires.

How to determine the gear ratio?

The rear Barsovsky bridge differs from an ordinary military one in only two details:
stockings - taken from the Kolkhoen bridge;
axle shaft - original spare part. Which is better - conventional or geared axles - and why?

This question first arose when cars with gear axles appeared on the market. Disputes about “which bridges are better” arise regularly at the conference. All frequently cited arguments are summarized here.
Advantages of military bridges compared to civilian ones:
- ground clearance 30 cm (versus 22 cm for civil bridges); According to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when Y-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With identical wheels, the difference is only 6 cm. (gain on the gearboxes is 40 mm. Gain on the dimensions of the differential housing is 20 mm. Total: 60 mm.)
- more “torque” (torque) - for transporting heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to uniform load distribution between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for “escorting a tank column” and (unlike civilian ones! - see from the magazine “Behind the Wheel”) approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

Advantages of civilian bridges compared to military ones:
- less weight (more comfortable ride and (physically) easier repairs);
- fewer parts - easier and cheaper repairs;
- installation of serially produced ones is possible;
- it is possible to install a spring suspension (see also note);
- at the same speed, the engine is less “spinned” due to the lower gear ratio;
- less noisy (since the final drives of military bridges are straight-toothed, and they make more noise);
- more accessible and cheaper spare parts. parts;
- gasoline consumption, all other things being equal, is less;
- fewer lubrication points - easier maintenance and less oil required.

Note for long military bridges:
- only spring suspension is installed on them (for comparison of spring and spring suspensions, see);
- stability improves;
- increased cross-country ability;
- spare parts are not available.

Guys, I only agree with you 50%. These 8 cm do not give such a big advantage. It all depends on the gasket between the steering wheel and the seat! Example. Yesterday we went fishing in 2 UAZ vehicles. One 31514-10 +, the other 31514-031 + 8 cm ground clearance (military). It was necessary to drive a section of the road through virgin soil for about 150 meters. We walked in two different tracks purely to satisfy our own curiosity - what is better - diffs or 8 cm of clearance. It turned out that the diffs are cooler!!! I pulled him out of snow captivity twice! The road (if I may say so) is dense, spring snow. We didn’t measure the depth (that’s not what we were going for), but it’s already sank! So, alas, 8 cm doesn’t give much! [Valera]

I haven’t noticed any difference yet (except for the smaller landing on the civilian one). But I think that the warriors are not fools - since they install such bridges, then they are better when driving off-road. But for driving on the highway at high speeds, simple ones should be better, because warriors don’t drive fast and their bridges are designed specifically for slow driving... The difference is noticeable in critical situations, for example, two weeks ago, when approaching the dacha, the road consisted of wet sticky snow - the “goat” sat down with his whole belly, but this was with civilians bridges. I figured that he lacked those... centimeters... that make a military man superior to the common man. Last winter, on an old “goat” with military bridges, I didn’t even think about the road. And there are many such examples - what can you feel about the cross-country ability of a car that... is higher - naturally better...

Civil bridges. Recently I went into the forest and had to wade through such a rut that the car simply lay on its bridges. She drove, leaving behind two furrows from the gearboxes. Apparently it was only clinging to the edges of the wheels. I think that with military bridges it will be much easier. At least, if I have to change bridges, I will change them to military ones. True, the military has one big disadvantage - the design. Complex mechanics made by Soviet hands are UNRELIABLE.

Military bridges... are indeed designed for difficult conditions, but the consumption is higher, noisier and more complex. However, there is a pattern - all police UAZs are equipped only with civilian axles (consumption and dynamics are important on asphalt, only the YA-245 is equipped), in the Ministry of Defense only military axles (only YA-192 tires).
The operation of a UAZ in the Moscow Region is a horror without beginning or end. As a rule, at 50 thousand, the final drive transmissions begin to leak. There are no more problems, after 100 thousand, the car, as a rule, is sold to the national economy and... they drive it for another 10 years, without really worrying about what’s going on with the bridges.

If you sit on bridges, then blocking is unlikely to help (unless you dig deeper). There is no doubt that they are useful, but not in these situations. By the way, according to my observations (the last 4 years of active hunting in winter, spring and autumn), UAZ vehicles with collective farm bridges usually lose the ability to move precisely because of landing on bridges. I remember only one case when blocking could really help - while moving through a frozen large puddle, a UAZ broke the ice and fell through with its right wheels (it didn’t land on the bridges). As a result: the left wheels lather on the ice, and the right wheels, reaching the hard ground at the bottom of the puddle, stand motionless. Well, I still took the UAZ with military bridges. In hunting grounds, rarely does anyone drive on virgin soil (almost never). Basically, people drive along “roads” - sort of clearings in the forest, or well-worn “roads” through fields. In such conditions, the main obstacle becomes deep tractor RUTTS, especially in lowlands, swamps and streams, or fallen trees, or stumps, etc. That is, the characteristics of “rowing” with all wheels at the same time become less important than ground clearance. In practical conditions, if I have one (or two along the side/diagonal) wheels slipping, then it will be easier for me to put something under them (branches, twigs, etc.) than to hang up a UAZ sitting on the bridges and slipping with all four locked wheels.

A year ago I replaced civilian bridges with military ones, conclusions:
1. There is no noticeable difference in noise between military and civilian bridges.
2. With a properly adjusted machine, fuel consumption should not increase by more than 1-1.5 liters (for military use).
3. About engine torsion. At least half of the UAZ owners on collective farm bridges have GP 5.125. For the military - 5.38. In total, we get a torsion of less than 5%! At 3000 rpm it's only 150 rpm. Funny! But at the same time, as it should be according to the state, the Y-192 is larger in diameter than 245 or 357 by 3%. That is, in the “standard” version the difference in torsion is less than 2%! (although “standard” options are not so often seen in the city (Ya-192)).

About cross-country ability. It is practically impossible to pull off a UAZ that sits well on both gearboxes of collective farm bridges with another similar UAZ (even if it sits on Goodrich - we passed it several times). On military bridges, the crankcase is made in the shape of a ski, so the car can move on them, leaving a furrow from the crankcase up to 3 cm deep.

Well, in conclusion, military bridges are much more reliable than collective farm bridges. And the design is more thoughtful, and the manufacturing is a couple of percent better quality. [Radomirych]

When installing locks in civilian axles and wheels >= 33" it is necessary to frequently change axle shafts, CV joints or main pairs. These locks are designed not for UAZ, but for armored personnel carriers... In addition, this lock is not intended for use as a cross-axle differential and the function of the latter to put it mildly, does not perform very well, which can lead to dire consequences in terms of [un]controllability. Military axles radically improve the situation with breakability, but there are no blockages for them (but there is more clearance). Nevertheless, the entire progressive jeeper community is gradually switching to military ones bridges, including those who some time ago were irreconcilable supporters of blocking. [_sergey_]

I recently carried out the operation of repressing bridges. Now I have gear axles with locks. The wheels are huge and the gearboxes simply relieved the load. He did this by pressing stockings out of the military and civil bridges and, accordingly, inserting military stockings into civilian ones.[Slava] What is needed to replace “civilian” bridges with “military” ones?

1. Plates for rear axle ladders.
2. For the front bridges, the lower cups for the stepladders are the same. But you need to thoroughly clean it from dirt. There is a recess there that is not used in civilian bridges and gets clogged with dirt, but in military bridges it works.
3. Stepladders gr.i military. the bridges are the same

Report on replacing civil bridges with military ones:

First of all, I want to immediately ask the person who wrote that you only need to shorten the rear universal joint by 10 mm and find plates under the rear axle stepladders to confess and in this case I will not hit him too much!!!
There were plenty of hemorrhoids.

1. The front brake pipes on military ones are original, they come with a tee.
2. plates for stepladders are not available for sale as a class. I had to weld square rods to my relatives.
3. After installing the stepladders on the springs, it turned out that they were too long, because... the spring has only seven leaves. We had to make 20 mm bushings for the nuts from a suitable tube, otherwise there would not be enough threads.
4. The cut brake hoses completely refuse to unscrew from the tubes; all sorts of fluids did not help. When heating the connection with a gas torch, I miraculously dodged a piece of hose that flew out of the flaring like a bullet. Lucky!! :-)))
5. Because The bridges were purchased without brakes, i.e. old cylinders, drums were lying around in a bag and some were even used, but we had to assemble everything from scratch. The drums are machined, the cylinders are polished and the boots are sealed, the pads are glued from the Volga - again labor costs and unnecessary boots.
6. All springs were forged and all bushings were replaced.
7. Yes, and I had to change the speedometer gear - I didn’t get around to it.
8. In the kit they gave me a transverse rod - I installed it, it is straight, without bending under the civilian differential.

This is how the work has been done.
P/S If I had known that everything would have to be drained, I would have thought ten times. And now it's too late. We need to sell the gr/bridges, at least get back the money spent.

Total cost for me (July 2002):
4500 rubles bridges
2000 basic spare parts for the interior
1000 to a mechanic for overhauling final drives
1000 - if not more for small things.
Total: 8,500 rubles and two weeks of Kama Sutra in the evenings and weekends.
It remains to collect some snot.
I drove it a little, it doesn’t seem to be making any noise, but I’m not completely convinced of this yet, but I want to calm my soul - the diffs weren’t touched and that’s why I’m worried. The fact that traction was added and the sprung mass was also immediately noticeable! As for the rest, let's see further What are locking differentials?

In the "original" UAZ has non-blocking interwheel differentials in the rear and front axles (both civilian and military). Therefore, when turning, as expected, the wheels on one side (inner relative to the center of the turn) spin slower than the wheels on the other side (outer). In the extreme case, if one of the wheels of the bridge does not experience any resistance (for example, it is suspended by a jack or spinning in liquid mud), then the other wheel is motionless. This is the disadvantage of off-road differentials - if, for example, the car gets into the mud with its right side, no matter how much the right wheels knead the mud, the left ones remain motionless and the car stands still. To avoid this, cross-axle differentials are made lockable (hard or partially). Hard blocking can be forced(lockers) or automatic(self-locking, cam differentials).
Lockers are usually controlled by pneumatics. Lockers work simply - there is a cylinder with a fork, which moves such a crown crap, which actually blocks.
Automatic locking of the cam differential occurs when the halves of the differential housing are rotated relative to each other (by one turn?), i.e., when one of the wheels slips. Such a differential is locked both when turning forward and backward, and is automatically unlocked when the wheel speeds are equalized (to a certain value?). For features of controlling a machine with automatic locks, see.
Partially locked ones are limited slip differentials (LSD), they have a row of discs inside (similar to a clutch), special oil is poured in, which helps the discs brake... but there is nothing solid there.

And according to the actual principle of operation... With such self-blocks, at least 60% goes to the lagging wheel in any situation. In some modes - up to 70-75 (maximum). But the self-block doesn’t care what resistance it overcomes (that is, what causes this resistance to wheel spinning). It is able to cover a torque difference of up to 70-30 = 40% of the traction force with any combination of resistance (friction in the contact patch of the tire with the road, braking with the service brake or the moment of inertia of a spinning wheel). Therefore, if this very difference in the moment of resistance is not enough to turn a stationary wheel (that is, it exceeds this same 40%)... carefully press the brake. At first, the moment on the stationary wheel will simply increase, then it will begin to turn (if the engine has enough power), and then, if the difference becomes less than 60-40 = 20%, the differential will generally force both wheels to slip synchronously, like a rigidly locked one (it’s simply " will bite" with such a big general moment). That is, there is “one hundred percent blocking” (though at what cost...). Or you can simply accelerate sharply - the moment of inertia of the suspended wheel will play the same role. And people are still surprised why, when cornering on soft ground, a sharp supply of gas can cause a “sharp change in the behavior of the car” with cam differentials (when the self-block simply jams). You need to be more careful with these devices :))...

See the principle of operation of the cam differential on the UAZAVTOTEKHOSSHIVNIE website

From a letter from Technoservice:

The differentials discussed below are installed only in the so-called. "civil" bridges. This is due to design features. Currently, we (Technoservice) have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and with cones. They differ in the principle of operation. The first one works quite harshly, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The operation of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max.
The first differential can only be installed in the rear axle, because Wheel locking is not allowed on the front steering axle.
The second differential can be installed in the front axle. (Grigory Serjantov) What cross-axle differentials can be installed on a UAZ? Are there a lot of changes?

Yesterday I received very incomplete information from the city of Gorky (Nizhny Novgorod) that self-locking differentials for military bridges still exist in nature!!! The fact is that this summer I asked my friend’s father-in-law (he lives in Gorky) to look for information about self-locking differentials specifically for military bridges. And yesterday they told me that he finally found a guy who has such diffs on army bridges! In short, I think it's worth intensifying the search! Happy hunting everyone!!!

There are locks on military bridges! But this is homemade (although you can get the drawings... theoretically - because they may not give it, but for money, I think, they will install the locks themselves. The principle is the same as for the BTR-60. In general, if you really need it and there is money (I didn’t ask, but it’s probably an order of magnitude more than for the armored personnel carriers... [Kolka]

Locks in military bridges - machine guns - bridge with installation of 6 - 7 tr. (early August 2000), rigid pneumatics with control from the dashboard 8 - 9 tr. Automatic machines are also 100% locked - but when turning they turn off completely. Machine guns for military bridges - the bridge is constantly tightly blocked. When turning when overtaking a wheel, the pin snaps out and the bridge becomes completely free until the wheel lags. Pin back - diagonal away. The old differentials are being remade in the case of an automatic transmission. The entire bridge is redone in the event of an airlock. Locks "under license" from special equipment of the USSR. Friend's license. He will also bet. [Chief] Reviews about locking in gear axles

Since until recently I had not found any reviews on the network about the actual use of self-locking differentials for geared axles, except for an article in 4x4 magazine, I decided to spend some time and describe my own feelings from their operation. So, in contrast to the Moscow-made 4x4 self-blocks described in the magazine, for which the clearly deranged manufacturer asked $600 apiece (after which the desire to deal with his products disappeared - let him heal his head), I purchased Nizhny Novgorod products that have absolutely the same principle of operation as the Moscow ones, but the prices are more reasonable (for example, you can buy them in an off-shop for $370). I installed self-blocks on both bridges and went to test them at the 3rd stage of the Partizan Trophy. The complexity of the tracks was very high (for those interested, photos from the track -), and the conclusions from use were approximately the following:

1. Self-blocks do not work at all with heavy diagonal hanging. That is, there really was not a single time when the rotation of one wheel on the bridge was visually visible while the car was stationary. Moreover, the use of 100% blocking would most likely help the car move. “Turning up the gas”, as described in the example by the 4x4 magazine, was not possible to solve this situation: I drove boggers and this advice would have buried me deep and for a long time;-)) It is not clear whether to take this fact into account, but 100% blocking no one promised, the manufacturer promises only 70%, although I would doubt this figure (by 70% they will work only with a very strong difference in rotation speeds. If you do not allow severe wheel slipping, then they hardly work or work very little - that is, without a visible effect).
2. Steerability has noticeably worsened when the steering wheel is turned as far as possible. The turning radius has doubled. Tested on soft ground in a dense forest ;-)) To navigate the turn with a minimum radius, I had to slow down. As it turned out, this is a panacea for this glitch: at low speed the radius is the same.
3. Cross-country ability in deep ruts has improved significantly (this plus is also noted by the 4x4 magazine). The difference is huge, those places in the rut where we got on the bridges a month ago were now easy to pass, and even if we got on the bridges (1-2 times during the whole time) then in that place the rut was very broken and it would have been the last time I wouldn’t even venture into this place, but would instead drive around the forest.
4. There is no sound of operation (perhaps I didn’t hear it, 2 hours after the start the muffler was torn off;-)))). So it’s not at all clear whether it was a regular diff or a self-locking one =)))

In short, the conclusions from here are as follows: we continue to drive on self-blocks, but only if it suddenly turns out that they quickly fall apart. So far, two days of ultra-heavy duty operation has not revealed any lack of durability. There is no tangible superiority of self-blocks over conventional diffs and most likely there will not be. Therefore, counting on a serious increase in cross-country ability is, by and large, naive;-))) I will definitely share how my further experience turns out. =)) [Alexander Filatkin (sanders@msk)]

Self-blocks, for which the manufacturer asked $600, are, firstly, with installation, and secondly, they differ in that they were modified specifically for UAZ. As for the ones you use, these are actually Quaiffs from Moskvich, which, while of the same high quality, have a slightly lower blocking coefficient (different screw angle). The manufacturer is not a factory, but a fairly small enterprise, and could reduce prices provided there is a sufficiently large number of sales (in their words).
You can “turn up the throttle”, or you don’t have to turn it up - simply turn on a higher gear - the difference in the angular speeds of rotation of the axle shafts will increase, and accordingly, more torque will be transferred to the frozen wheel. Or you can just “touch” the brake pedal a little - with correctly adjusted brakes the effect will be the same, although for a UAZ with drum brakes this is hardly achievable))
So “self-blocks” and “self-blocks” are different, and you shouldn’t generalize right away. I personally tested them, and I have exactly these in my jeep. So far I'm satisfied. Another thing is that I personally would prefer Detroit Locker, which simply works much better, both than LSD self-blocks, and than all sorts of “forced” ones. [Ivan Evdokimov (MONSTR4X4), author of the article “The military is blocked”].

BTR-60s are no longer produced, but nevertheless blocking is carried out in the city of Arzamas, Nizhny Novgorod region, in Kurgan?
! ...The search circle for the differential narrows to the high-speed fences. I don’t know whether the warrant officers responsible for the safety of materiel accept credit cards, traveler’s checks or postal orders, but it is not human habit to refuse cash.
! Self-locking differentials (from BTR-60) are often available in the village of Vyezdnoye (southern exit from Arzamas) at the GAZ-UAZ store... They only deliver a few pieces at a time. How to find a store? We leave Arzamas (to the south), cross the railway and after 70 meters on the left (opposite the church) there will be a store (the same one). Opening hours: 8-17, Saturday 8-14, Sunday - closed. There is no phone number in the store. The owner's phone number is (8-247) 9-08-86 (call in the evening, ask Valera). [MISHA from Nizhny]
! Inter-wheel locks from armored personnel carriers are available. Ready for installation on a UAZ vehicle. [email protected]. Tell us how to install self-locking differentials from the BTR-60 in civilian bridges.

Everything is done very simply! You remove the axle from the car, after draining the oil and unscrewing the brake hoses. Pull out the axle shafts. Then the bridge needs to be cut in half. To get to the diff box, you pull out the old diff, remove the bearings and the main pair gear from it (gather all the gaskets and bolts in a pile - you will need them later). In the new diff, you need to drill out the holes from 10 mm to 12 mm (if they are not drilled out). After these operations, you can start assembling - put the gear in place (fortunately nothing else is required for this), adjust the differential bearings (the book describes in detail the process of adjusting the differential box bearings) and put everything back in its original place! ALL!!! It is installed in the front axle in the same sequence! Good luck with the blocking!!! [Valera]

I think everyone has already guessed that installing differentials in the rear axle is much easier :), so I started with it:
1) the cardan is unscrewed from the bridge;
2) the oil is drained (although you won’t drain it anyway :));
3) unscrew the brake hoses and tighten the flexible hoses so that they do not flow;
4) the stepladders are unscrewed, but not completely, so that the bridge still holds a little;
5) the shock absorbers are unscrewed;
6) wheels are removed;
7) is hung over the frame of the UAZ and the stepladders are unscrewed completely - the bridge is removed;
8) unscrew and remove the axle shafts;
9) the bridge splits in half. Attention: it is better not to tear the axle gearbox gasket!!! I tore mine, but it doesn’t exist in stores, even in South Port! Although you can cut it out of thick Whatman paper, as I did. By the way, axle shaft gaskets are also not a common occurrence... Here you have reached the diff and are looking forward to the main pair... It turns out that there are two types (in addition to the number of teeth) - some with 10 mm holes, and some with 12 mm threaded holes, that's if you for you, the thread in the main pair is worse, because you will have to sweat a little and drill 12 mm holes in the new diff (and for this you need to have a good 12 mm metal drill, or better yet several pieces and preferably self-sharpening ones, if there are any ). Everything was OK in my rear axle, but I had to drill in the front axle, so everything came down to the lack of such a drill: (and the metal turned out to be painfully hard...);
10) next you need to suffer with the bearings: remove both (7510), for this you simply need a puller!!! Without it we shot for 40 minutes, with it for 13 seconds :), but we have to shoot oh so many times (when adjusting);
11) then the process from the book: put on chap. a pair, and do not fill the bearings completely, but leave a gap of 3-3.5 mm, assemble the bridge together with the gasket, tighten the bolts of the gearbox, disassemble it again and see what is left of the gap (for one and the other bearing) add to With this figure 0.1, divide the resulting number in half and insert the rings in front of the bearings to this thickness. Then you just assemble everything to the end!
Valera said this only briefly, but about the front axle they wrote: “you do everything the same”... The first difficulty: unscrewing the brake hoses, for some reason they are more stubborn at the front and quickly tend to break off (not only on my UAZ ). The second difficulty is my unfamiliarity with the UAZ :)) I tried to unscrew the axle shafts in the same way as at the rear, but then I realized that not everything is so simple and this is the front axle... In general, I immediately halved the axle (previously, of course, it having removed :) and unscrewed the steering rods in two places) and then did everything the same as with the rear one, only together with the axle shafts...
In the end, you put everything in its place, pump the brakes, pour oil into the axles and into the DIRT!!! :-)) Question for Valera and the others: how wrong was I when I didn’t pull out anything in the front axle (half shafts), but adjusted the bearings just like that?.. [Kolka]

I finished installing a self-locking differential in the rear axle. Before I forget:

1. I immediately polished the stepladders. To unscrew rusted brake pipes, you need to warm them up with a blowtorch or something else and cool them several times, after which they are unscrewed while hot. Having broken one tube, I flared it again, which turned out to be not so difficult.
2. Gaskets between the halves of the axle housing are sold without problems, so you can tear the old one.
3. It is better to drill 12 holes in the differential with a special multi-point tool - a countersink, then drill with a drill to 12.1-12.2 if the holes do not match. If you immediately drill with a drill, due to its beating, you get an uneven approach, and the hole moves to the side. Because I couldn’t find a countersink, so I went in (to a depth of about 2 mm) with a reamer of 12, but sharpened the ends like a drill. It is impossible to go deeper because... the reamer cuts sideways and the hole slides to the side again. Next, I drilled more with a regular 12mm drill. The result was holes that exactly matched the threads in the driven gear (I sharpened a couple to the side with a file). You can achieve a more accurate match of the holes by turning the gear on the differential.
4. The old bolts securing the differential to the gear are short, because... the diff is thicker. After a long search, we selected GAZ-53 cardan bolts with the letter X. They are longer and have a 17mm head. The uncut part of the thread just corresponds to the thickness of the differential, so that after screwing the bolts all the way, there remains about 1 mm of thread to the driven gear. The bolts must be shortened with a grinder, because if they stick out on the other side of the gear, they will touch the support seat of the rear bearing of the drive gear. Additionally, I applied thread glue to the bolts.
5. Pay attention to the differential support bearings. Almost always, cavities appear on the rollers - the bearing needs to be replaced. Because of them, the bridge howls at speed. On the advice of the conference, I knocked out the outer ring of the bearing by welding a strip of iron across it and knocking on the outside with the axle shaft. It turned out very easy. Cook carefully in two batches so as not to overheat the cast iron nest.
6. It’s better to buy a good bearing puller for 300-500 rubles than to buy disposable Zhiguli ones for 100 - 200. I barely had enough of it.
7. It is better to make special stands for the bridge halves. Very convenient for repeated assembly and disassembly. Adjusting the bearing tension itself did not cause any problems. The gap - the required thickness of the shims can be measured with ordinary feeler gauges.
8. The nuts that tighten the halves of the bridge can be replaced with nuts securing the rocker arm axle. These ones break down at once, and those are taller.
9. The differential rotation force is 5 kg on the flange. The force of the drive gear is 1.5 kg. Total - 6.5 kg. Significantly decreased after adding oil and driving for a short period of time. The crankcase gets a little warm.
10. In s.b. diff, it is better to pour special oil for high-friction differentials with an LS additive. Like Castrol LS90 or BP Limslip 90. Because. I didn’t find anything like that in Yaroslavl, so I filled it with simple BP 80w90, but if I find it, I’ll replace it.
11. Tighten the wheel bearings frequently. If this is not done, the inner rings of the bearings begin to rotate on the axle and the axle wears out.

In the front, because 1) it is connected only when the ratchets are screwed in - the life of the differential, axle shafts, etc. increases. (On rides in St. Petersburg I heard a story about a UAZ with self-locking differentials in both axles and about replacing axle shafts every ~400- 500 km. The last ones were simply cut off...);
2) the load on it is greater (on a moderately loaded car), therefore, it has more traction with the ground.

I have it only on the front axle because: 1 The resource of these diffs is very limited 2 Such a diff, like the front axle, is only needed off-road 3 Does not interfere with normal movement on a normal road 4 The front wheels are controlled and in combination with locking the result is noticeable. [nickel]

On my LandRover 110, both axles have ARB Loker with forced pneumatic activation from electric power. compressor. So: they each turn on with their own button, but without first turning on the rear one, you cannot turn on the front one. This is the standard scheme. The idea of ​​the imperialists about installing locks first in the rear, and then in the front, in my opinion, is that they are turned on in difficult conditions, and it seems to them that the rear axle shafts (especially the reinforced ones) compared to the front ones will be in the mud and on tend to live longer. I don’t know how the axle shafts in the UAZ differ, but in the Def the rear one is much more powerful than the front one... Also, if there are self-locking differentials in front, there may be difficulties in steering on the road and with different wheel diameters - anything can happen in the mud.

From a letter from the company "Technoservice" Today we have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and cone. They differ in the principle of operation. The first one works quite harshly, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The operation of the second is much softer, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max. The first differential can only be installed in the rear axle, because Wheel locking is not allowed on the front steering axle. The second differential can be installed in the front axle. [sent by Grigory Serjantov] How does a car with self-locking differentials behave on the road?

On dry or wet asphalt I didn't feel any difference.
In winter, the car becomes completely different (than with simple ones): sharper or something, and strives to go along a large radius when turning.
More resistant to skids. Most likely not, perhaps better controlled in a skid.
All of the above are my personal observations on a specific machine with 2 locks. Please tell me, is it possible to install military axles from UAZ on the GAZ-69 without significant modifications?

Can! You will have to leave the original bipod of the steering column and the linkage from it to the right front wheel. If the shock absorbers are original (lever), then there will be no problems, but if you installed telescopic ones, you need to look at the location.
About GAZ-69, see also in the “Lyrics” section and on this website. What are “ELMO”, “STELM” couplings, etc.? Are they necessary?

Opinions AGAINST:

Disadvantage - poor protection against dirt, sand, etc. - if clogged, you have to switch it with pliers. May slip when moving backwards.
- It is necessary to take into account that in order for them to start working normally, you need to drive about 10 meters. And they may no longer exist. Practice has shown that in this case it is enough to twist the front driveshaft back and forth (but this is for those who want to dive, but you can do it this way, first engage the rear, release the clutch just a little, and then the third or fourth and the same Let go a little, it should be as if you were turning the cardan with your hand without much effort, after that you can safely storm the devil!
- It’s better to turn the original hub couplings with a wrench for a long time and tediously than to sort out the ELMO in the mud. [Penny]
- I threw out two sets of these couplings. I only drive the UAZ in mud, but as Ladoga showed, these clutches do not withstand mechanically. That year, the mounting bolts were cut off in an ordinary swamp. This year, in the mud, when the wheels slipped, it was torn all over from the inside. If you use the UAZ around the city and rarely, on weekends or holidays in the mud, then in my opinion it’s better to use regular ones. It's not scary to turn the key twice a week. But if it’s always mud, or asphalt, or something like that, not particularly muddy, then alloy switches are more convenient, but still less reliable.
- If the car is stuck and is slipping with the rear wheels, then if you turn on the Elmy, and then immediately the front axle, then when the Elmy is slipping, the Elmy will start to turn on and you will hear “trrrrr”, the axle shaft cuts off the splines on the Elma and kirdyk, oh tractor ! Alternatively, you can hang the wheel and twist it with your hands until it locks. Then do the same on the other side. The truth is inconvenient and not always possible... But it will do in extreme cases If the car is completely paralyzed, then connecting the Elms is sometimes generally problematic, since in order to turn them on reliably, you still need to drive a little (2-3 m) without turning on the front axle. This is especially true in winter and if the Elms contain thick lubricant, which is not recommended to be filled. But whatever you say, there is no alternative, since you have to turn it on/off very often and the “standard” ratchet clutches, no matter how reliable they are, are still inconvenient. All of the above does not apply to sports cars, where they spend most of their lives in poop...[Grasping]

Opinions FOR:

I've had them since birth, no problems. There are also similar ones, but imported. They look neater... Put it in general. [Victor]
- Reliability of couplings. There were no questions with 33 wheels. After winter use (I didn’t turn it off), they soured to death. I disassembled it, cleaned it, poured it with liquid lubricant and went to Ladoga. Everything worked fine. But Deklomp broke off the coupling. About a stone. [OlegM]
- I’ve already done 19,000 km. and I don’t suffer with them. They say they pop out - I haven't encountered this. They turn on normally if you don’t swell the lithol in them. And you can make them airtight with your own hands. To me, it’s better this way than to oil it with a key every time. But if you can’t get out of the mud, then naturally the old ones are simpler and more reliable.

It is necessary to lubricate correctly:
There’s no need to stuff the coupling with lithol “just don’t play around with it”, and there’s no need, since there are no (well, that’s all) rubbing elements, I went through two types of couplings (different on the outside - identical on the inside) - and so there are no rubbing surfaces there.
My advice is this:
DO NOT score, otherwise they will not turn on.
Lubricate with a thin layer of grease until the parts are “greasy” level.
DO NOT lubricate with lithol - lithol is destroyed by moisture and becomes glue/putty/abrasive - anything, but not a lubricant.
You can lubricate it with fiol or even graphite grease.
If you have the money, buy waterproof lubricant.

To protect from salt on top, you can use scraps of plastic cocoa cans with screw-on lids. Our products, as well as those from Germany and Poland, are ideal in diameter. All sorts of Nestles are not good for us: either too narrow, or vice versa.

You can hang protective caps from one and a half liter plastic bottles on top and turn the clutch switch back and forth at least once every 2 weeks.

By the way, the covers on the couplings come out well from the steering boots from the bull, you just need to seal the hole with an elastic band, although if you go through the bushes, you can lose it, because it will tear off any... And it’s good to smear ShRB on top of the couplings. Excellent protection from water.

First is the switch seal. I had a standard plastic seal (with low interference, of course). You need to achieve a tight fit of the cuff along the inner diameter (for example, using electrical tape or fum tape to check it. Check how the cuff fits into the body - it should be a little tight, but it can be rotated by hand. Next, we assemble all the insides, not forgetting to put the lock nut on the switch screw (I have one there was no and the clutch “disassembled”). In general, I did not use lubricant in the clutch, but the transmission. Well, when assembling, do not forget about the sealant :-) [Chief] What can I do to prevent ELMO clutches from switching automatically?

Turned on the ELMO clutches to the 4x2 position. After a few kilometers, the arrow on the left wheel turned out to be about 4x4. Turned on 4x2 again. It happened again. Moreover, the faster you go, the faster it jumps. Clearly, this is a disease. I disassembled the coupling, looked - and did not understand anything. I called a friend, although he is not a UAZ driver, he is a very smart guy. After a couple of minutes he says, “Make a hole here.” The clutch design has a cup with three shaped recesses along the border of which, when switching 4x2-4x4, balls roll and remain in extreme positions. On the left clutch in the 4x2 position, the ball is located where shown in the figure and when moving it tends to move to the opposite corner. You just need to make a small recess under it for a clearer fixation. It helped me. [Anatoly Khokhryakov (HOHAN)]

The bridge is humming. What could it be?

If you are sure that it is the bridge that is humming, and not something else, then you need to cross it. For some reason, our people think that nothing can happen to the bridge :) - maybe, and so on. On my old UAZ, the axle hummed terribly - when I got tired of it - I took it apart and found a broken shank of the axle shaft at the entrance to the bearing in the final drive - I replaced the axle shaft, at the same time changed the main pair (since I had disassembled the axle), several bearings and all the seals - repair cost 10% of the cost of a new bridge - no hum, fuel consumption has sharply decreased, etc. So don’t do bullshit - move the bridge. By the way, I recommend rolling out the axle from under the car assembled, right on the wheels - I, like a fool, took it apart in one place - I got scared, then it dawned on me - I assembled it completely separately from the car, filled in oil, etc. and rolled it back - all that remains is to attach it springs, shock absorbers and brake pipes :).
The hum comes from the main drive of the front axle. This is fine. After the first 4 thousand and changing the oil in the transmission (I filled it with TAD-17), the noise became much quieter. In winter, on a snowy road with the front axle engaged, at a speed of 80-90 km/h there is only a slight whistle. My "Goat", unlike most, has caps of unknown purpose welded (or screwed) to the rear axle shafts (at the end). Does anyone know why they are needed and whether they are needed at all? The thing is, I want to put hubcaps on the rims, and because of these bulging cone caps, I'll have to cut an extra hole in the hubcaps. How can I tear them off? I tried to unscrew them, but nothing worked.

This is a design and ineradicable feature of military bridges. These caps transmit torque from the short axle shaft of the gearbox to the hub (it has splines inside). Most likely, you will have to make an extra hole. You can also change the bridges. I recently saw strange hubs on a “loaf”. The axles are ordinary, civilian ones, and the axle shaft flange is secured not with six, but with ten bolts (as on military ones). What could this be?

I bought these hubs a year ago. They differ from the previous ones only in the number of holes and are quite compatible with them (six-bolt axle shafts fit on them without modifications). On a normal hub and a normal axle shaft there should be absolutely no discrepancies. Of these 10 holes, 6 are exactly the same as the old ones. The remaining 4 were added in the middle between them, and 2 gaps were left so that the removable bolts of the axle shaft would rest there (there are 2 threaded holes in it so that it can be pressed out of the hub if it sticks. These holes should be directed to missing holes in the 10-hole hub). But no one sells or produces 6-hole hubs now. And why, if they should replace the 6-hole ones without alterations and adjustments? How to adjust the tightness of wheel bearings?

There is a trick in bearings - if you tighten the first nut to the normal tension of the bearing, then the second, when you start to tighten it, picks up the slack in the thread and pinches the bearing. I adjust by removing the brake drum so that the bare hub is and rotates in the bearings after locking easily and evenly, without biting, i.e. evenly. If the bearing is slightly overtightened, the rotation occurs in jerks, as if on sand; your fingers can feel it well.
Then I check with the wheel on - then the lever turns out to be large. October 2003 About CV joints according to the Willis system

We now have on sale front axle axle shafts (variable velocity joint) using the Willis system (American). They differ from our relatives in that instead of five small stupid balls there is one big one. There are grooves on it in two mutually perpendicular planes along the entire circumference. Two forks fit into this groove. Their advantages: they do not wear out at all (eternal system), in principle they cannot jam (which happens with relatives), a greater angle of rotation of the front wheels is possible. I've had them for five years now and they have proven themselves to be excellent! They cost less than their relatives. They are produced, it seems to me, in Vyksa (Nizhny Novgorod region) [MISHA from Nizhny]

As far as I understand, kinematically this is no different from a conventional universal joint. This means that it really has unequal angular speeds (which is worse than equal, like the original one) and that the wheel turning angle is LESS than that of the original CV joint. Now, if the grooves did not lie in planes, but had a more complex shape, then this would completely change the matter. In addition, the most loaded surfaces there have sliding friction, and not rolling friction, as in the native ones, this means that the lubricant is desirable, apparently hypoid (and not Litol)... Non-wear, for the same reason, is also doubtful. Another thing is that the relatives only need to wear out a little to jam, but these can apparently be worn out until the forks wear out. I have a book on the history of the domestic automotive industry, and there is a picture of a disk joint there. It is kinematically equivalent, in my opinion, to two gimbals combined at one point. I don’t remember exactly, but perhaps this particular design was called the “Willis-type hinge.” This is a constant velocity joint, if only because it is symmetrical. And the angle of rotation of its wheels is apparently greater... Signs that kingpins need adjustment/replacement

When driving over bumps, when bouncing, there are impacts on the steering wheel.

You hang the wheel higher with a jack, grab it from below the wheel (right near the ground) and begin to pull it towards you - away from you, i.e. along the axis of the bridge. If the play is small, then it’s normal, if it’s large, then you either need to deal with gaskets or change everything. How to unscrew a rusted gearbox plug? After three years of driving on salt, the plugs on the bridges were completely rusted. 2 mm sticks out - you can’t grab it, the hexagonal slot has become round. I defeated one plug using a sadistic method - I drilled it out and used taps to pick out the remains from the thread - it took 2.5 days. Tell me, is there a less bloody way?

I took a vice (their jaws were new, ribbed, made of hard alloy) and dived with them under the car. The stub of the cork was clamped very tightly, putting a pipe on the handle of the vice. After which I inserted a crowbar into the hole in the vice and pulled sharply, strongly. The plug moved 1/6 of a turn. Then it's a matter of technique.
You can also try to grab it first with pliers (the semicircular part with a good notch), and then clamp the pliers with a vice. In this way, I have more than once turned out broken bolts and studs.

Believe me, the surest thing is: welding a nut onto a cork - it just seems difficult - is actually the easiest thing.
During welding, the plug will heat up and become acidic. You can easily unscrew it with a simple head. The cork can be used further

These plugs are available for sale. They are the same for us and the Volga, so you can try to look in GAZ stores.
Our standard sequence of actions was as follows:
1) hammer the hexagon into 13 (and completely tear off the edges on the cork);
2) knock out the plug with a chisel counterclockwise (until it is flush with the bridge);
3) you weld a piece of iron (for example, a hexagon) and, trying to unscrew it, (you tear it off several times);
4) drill a 12-14 mm hole in the plug (from now on, if the plug is filled, you can plug it with a piece of wood :) and saw the remaining ring in half and take it out in parts... (Attention: The plugs have a tapered thread!)
I would like to unscrew the plug in the first stages The car "yaws" at high speed. Shock absorbers, wheels, steering are fine. What's the matter?

The symptom is very typical for a malfunction called “improper adjustment of wheel hub bearings” - increased play in them causes “yaw” of one or more wheels, which immediately affects directional stability. Apparently, you... constantly drive “over 100”, although the chassis of the car, and, in particular, the wheel hubs, are not entirely suitable for this. The UAZ has a HUGE unsprung mass and a very stiff suspension! I advise you to inspect the front wheels, there is probably either a lot of play or even destruction of the separators, although in the latter case you would have heard it even in an UAZ.
Tighten the bearings EXACTLY according to the instructions - and not “until the play you can feel by hand is eliminated”, even if the wheel rotates a little stiffly - check it later when the hub heats up. [Makhno]

I completely agree with Makhno about the hubs, but the kingpins, and especially the bushings, can also significantly affect directional stability. Theoretically, there could be such a situation: the kingpins could initially be placed in the steering knuckles without bushings (what doesn’t happen with us?) At first they worked without bushings due to the fact that they were well pressed to the steering knuckles. Having become worn out, the CV joints began to dangle. Hence the exchange rate instability.
You need to do what Makhno advises - hang out the front wheels, sway them in a vertical direction. If there is play, disassemble the hubs and tighten the bearings. If after this the play does not disappear, then work on the king pins. Wheel toe adjustment

Here is one simple way.
Find a stick, tube, etc. that fits the size (it should fit freely between the wheels with a gap of 5-30 mm). At worst, you can even use a thick branch of suitable length. Then you make marks from the inside of the tires (in the middle between the tread and the edge of the rim) and measure the distance between them using a stick and a ruler (you use it to measure the gap between the end of the stick and the sidewall. Then you roll the car so that the wheel makes 1/2 a revolution and do it again measurement. The difference in the ruler readings is the convergence. In this case, the gap in the front should be less than in the back.
Ideally, 2 tubes are used, one of which fits into the other with a small gap [Chief] How do I remove the right upper king pin cover (with steering arm)?

This lever is very loaded, so “crackers” are installed on the studs, under the nuts of its fastening, in special holes - hardened conical inserts with a cut. It is they, when pressed with a nut from above, that are pressed around the stud rod and ensure reliable fastening of the lever. Over time, this whole thing becomes very rusty from the water that gets into it, and, indeed, if you didn’t assemble the assembly yourself, it can be quite difficult to remove the lever - the crackers seem to bite themselves between the body of the lever and the pin. There is NO NEED to heat this thing up. You need to remove the nuts, clean everything around them and find and clean out the cuts on the “crackers” - pour WD-40 or kerosene around the studs, wait two hours, periodically watering again. But then - knock with a hammer (500 g) on ​​the upper plane of the lever, from above. Put something on the stiletto heels so that they don't break off - you'll have a hard time turning them out later. Periodically tap on the sides, but lightly. [Makhno] Some tips for disassembling a military axle (to replace the CV joint)

To disassemble, you just need to unscrew the wheel and half of it.
And I would like to draw your attention: IT IS NECESSARY TO ASSEMBLE THE FINAL TRANSMISSION CASE WITH EITHER THE OLD GASKET OR WITH THE SAME THICKNESS AS IT WAS. This is important for rolled gears.
AND DO NOT UNLOCK UNLESS EXTREMELY NECESSARY the fastening of the small roller bearing housing (the 2 bolts are similar to cardan shafts) THE SAME REASON [Moose Postal] Homemade king pin remover

Take a piece of sheet steel, 100x150 and about 8-10 mm thick, drill an 11 mm hole in the center. AND THAT'S ALL! To this you also need an M10 bolt 80-10 mm long and a nut with a washer.
Procedure: remove the thrust plate, screw its bolts back, by hand, so that they protrude by 15 mm, put YOUR plate on top, screw a nut onto the bolt and, placing a washer, through the hole in the “puller”, screw it into the king pin. Now, if you hold the head of the bolt and rotate the nut, the king pin will EASILY come out. [Makhno]

We remove the axle, CV joint and expand it from the inside with something concrete or with a sledgehammer through a mandrel. Possibly together with bushings. But you still need to unscrew the bushings using a reamer...
(folk recipes) "Volgovskie" bridges

We... make combined bridges. The bridge housing is taken from Volga 24s and UAZ stockings are pressed in, and the main pairs are installed in different, but the most comfortable ones from Gaz-21 (9x41 teeth). Such bridges last longer and are more reliable; the UAZ does not lose power and becomes faster.

I remade the original bridge on my UAZ for a GAZ-24. The speed has become much higher, consumption is 11-12 liters. True, with a load of 600-800 kg it’s a little heavy

An unexpected revelation for me was that the oil seals, in particular the hub ones, are corroded (Zh8Eprst) by ordinary lithol in about a week. There is no working edge left at all, and the rest is smeared with black soot: (I concluded for myself that before installation, the seals need to be kept for a day or two in an environment similar to the one in which they will work (for example, in a mixture of Litol and TAD) and see what happens. How to get rid of leaks through axle hubs (provided that the breathers are in working order and the seals are in order - (U))

You need: red ABRO sealant, blue ABRO thread locker, solvent (white spirit, kerosene is fine, but gasoline is very undesirable!), if the hub cap bolts are very worn, then new bolts, and a few more rags. First, remove the covers, soak the bolts (even new ones) in solvent, wipe the cover and hub with rags and solvent, wait until dry. We take the sealant and smear a thin layer on the cover and the hub, then with a bare finger (aesthetes can wear rubber gloves or something else that fits:) smear the sealant so that it lies in a thin, even layer. Yes, it is advisable to jack up the wheel to make it easier to align the holes in the cover and the hub. We put the cover on, but not all the way, by turning the wheel we align the holes, take the bolts, wipe them clean, put a fixative on the threads, and tighten the bolts. Yes, GROVERS ARE NOT NEEDED AT ALL, it’s better without them. Then we tighten the bolts evenly and tighten them completely. The sealant should come out quite a bit; after it hardens, cut off the excess. You can’t drive right after this; it’s advisable not to put the wheel on the ground for an hour. That's all. The whole operation takes a maximum of half an hour per wheel. No leaks, no unscrewing, which is what I wish for you! [Novel aka Behemoth 4x4] Comparison of conventional ("civilian") bridges and "spicer" bridges

For "spicers":

On Hunter machines and on new machines of the 316x family, new-style kingpins and CV joints are installed. The new type of king pins are identified by healthy nuts on the king pin caps. See picture.

Authorship - Voldy.

Bridges (central part) MTZ-82 + final drives from T-40. "Native" self-locking interlocks from MTZ were installed in both bridges. Rubber 36"

Military bridges are called “U-shaped” (the bridge is like the crossbar of a letter, with wheels attached to the right and left of the letter). The torque does not fall entirely on the main pair (as on civil bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and the gearboxes. (see continuation)

Differences between military bridges and civilian ones.

A military bridge differs from a regular bridge by the presence of final drives. Due to the presence of gearboxes, the bridge is raised relative to the wheel axis by 4 cm, which increases the vehicle's ground clearance (the distance from the ground to the bottom point of the bridge). The main pair is smaller in size (the military axle housing “hangs” 4 cm less than the civilian axle). The main pair has fewer teeth and they are larger - this increases the reliability of military bridges compared to civilian ones. The gear ratio of military axles is 5.38 (=2.77*1.94 - the gear ratios of the main and final drives, respectively) - more high-torque, but less "high-speed" than that of conventional axles.
The rear driveshaft for military axles is 1 cm shorter than for civilian ones!

Advantages of military bridges compared to civilian ones:

Ground clearance 30 cm (versus 22 cm for civil bridges); According to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when Y-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With identical wheels, the difference is only 6 cm. (gain on the gearboxes is 40 mm. Gain on the dimensions of the differential housing is 20 mm. Total: 60 mm.)
- more “torque” (torque) - for transporting heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to uniform load distribution between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for “escorting a tank column” and approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

The military has a limited slip differential. Those. if you are stuck in the mud with one wheel of the axle or you are standing on ice with one half and one half is slipping and the other is not (this is how a regular differential works). To prevent this from happening, military bridges were invented. So military bridges are much better off-road.

GP gear ratio (total: GP 2.77 + final drives 1.94): 5.38
Ground clearance: 300 mm (with tires Ya-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
Track: 1453 mm

The UAZ brand car is a full-fledged SUV with a 4x4 wheel arrangement, which is equipped with a transfer case with a mechanical connection of the front drive wheels and a shift to a lower gear.

There is a claim that the transmission, or rather the wheel drive axles of a military-made vehicle, compares favorably with civilian ones; we can try to find out whether this is actually true.

Design Features

The design of the military bridge includes the use of additional final drives, which are installed for more optimal distribution of torque to both wheels for difficult road conditions. The presence of gearboxes, firstly, increases the vehicle’s ground clearance by 8 cm, which provides additional advantages when passing through deep ruts, wetlands, forests and other difficult conditions.

Secondly, due to the changed ratio of gear ratios, the UAZ equipped with military axles has better engine traction in lower gears. When front-wheel drive is connected and the lever is moved to the low gear position, such a unit can easily drive on almost any off-road terrain, and even drag a trailer weighing up to 2 tons, and this with an engine power of only 75 l/s, if you take a 469 UAZ up to 90 years of manufacture.

UAZ vehicles produced specifically for the defense industry were developed more carefully, taking into account all the nuances regarding the ratio of power and cross-country ability of the vehicle, its readiness for operation in harsh climates, an extended temperature range, and operation in the complete absence of road conditions. UAZ of some modifications was even developed to accompany tank columns. Therefore, special attention was paid to the transmission.

A vehicle equipped with military-style axles can be operated at very low or high temperature ranges with an almost complete absence of oil in the gearboxes. In this case, only a uniform hum will be heard in the UAZ emanating from the bridges, while the transmission of the civilian vehicle will already fail. But such operation is allowed only in extreme, forced cases; in all other cases, the military bridge, like all mechanisms, needs timely lubrication and must work as expected - in an oil bath.

The wheels of a vehicle with military-made axles are located below the central axis of the bridge, due to final drives, this increases cross-country ability in bad road conditions. The military axle driveline is one centimeter shorter.

Comfort

UAZ, of any modification, with civilian or military axles, is a car created for a special category of people - military, hunters, fishermen, special services workers who do not feel the need for additional options for comfort, such as increased sound insulation or leather interior. But there is a claim that UAZ on military bridges has a higher noise level - the bridges “hum.” This statement is erroneous; an axle of any type “makes noise” only in a faulty state, or when used incorrectly - when the oil level in the crankcase is insufficient, the main pair or hubs are worn out, the gearbox or transfer mechanism is faulty. With proper maintenance and operation, even an expert cannot distinguish a civilian bridge from a military one by sound.

Visual differences

The military bridge has a gearbox threaded connection on the left side in the direction of travel of the vehicle, the civilian one is right in the center. The military bridge stocking is longer on the right side and shorter on the left. In civilian construction, the stockings are visually identical. The ground clearance of a military vehicle is slightly different in height from that of a civilian vehicle.

Interchangeability

Military-style axles, like other transmission elements, can be installed on a civilian vehicle, and civilian axles are suitable only after special modification.

The cost of military bridges for a UAZ vehicle is on average 20 percent more expensive than for civilian ones. To order them, you should contact a specialized store.

Final drive bridge

or UAZ military bridge

U-shaped drive axles with final drive - installed on UAZ 3151 utility vehicles.

Installation of U-shaped drive axles (complete front and rear) on UAZ 31512 vehicles is possible with the simultaneous installation of cardan shafts of the UAZ 3151 vehicle. Installation of U-shaped axles with final drive on a family of cars with a carriage layout requires significant modification of the design of the bridges, bipod, bipod traction, car suspension, manufacturing driveshafts shortened by 10 mm, and cannot be done outside the factory (without its recommendations)

rice. 1 Rear axle with final drive:

1 — main gear housing cover; 2 - differential bearing; 3,13,49 - shims; 4 - sealing gasket; 5.7 - drive gear bearings; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - cuffs; 9 - flange; 10 — nut; 11 — dirt deflector; 12 — ring; 14 — spacer sleeve; 16 — main gear drive gear; 17 — satellite; 18 — right axle shaft; 19 — final drive housing; 20,29 — oil deflectors; 21 — axle bearing; 22,26,40 — retaining rings; 23 — sealing gasket of the final drive housing; 24 — final drive housing cover; 25 — bearing; 27 — brake shield; 28 — brake drum; 30 — wheel mounting bolt; 31 - axle; 32 — hub bearing; 33.41 — gaskets; 34 — lock washer; 35- drive flange; 36 — hub bearing nut; 37 — lock washer; 38 — bushing; 39 — final drive driven shaft; 43 — driven shaft bearing; 44 — final drive driven gear; 45 - special nut; 46.50 — drain plugs; 47 — final drive drive gear; 48 — right cup of the satellite box; 51 — final drive housing; 52 — axle gear washer; 53 — axle gear; 54 — satellite axis; 55 — driven gear of the main gear; 56 — left cup of the satellite box; 57 — left axle shaft

Axles with final drives (Fig. 1 and 2) are installed as a complete set (front and rear) on modifications of vehicles of the UAZ-31512 family with simultaneous replacement of the rear propeller shaft.

Maintenance of axles with final drives differs from that described above in the technology of replacing the lubricant in the hinges of the steering knuckles of the front axles, checking and replacing the oil in the final drive housings, as well as adjusting the position of the drive gear 16 of the main drive and its bearings 5 ​​and 7 (see Fig. 1 ).
After adjusting the side clearance, it is necessary to check the engagement of the main gear gears along the contact patch, as indicated in the section -Assembling and adjusting rear axle units- (p. 73).
After a mileage of 50,000 km, during the next maintenance, it is recommended to tighten the bolts securing the final drive driven gear 44 and the final drive driven gear 55, as well as the bolts securing the removable bearing housing 25 of the final drive.
The position of gear 16 is adjusted by selecting the adjusting ring 15 of the required thickness. When replacing the main gears and the large tapered bearing or only the main gears, measure the mounting height of the large tapered bearing 5 under an axial load of 2-2.5 kN (200-250 kgf) and, if it is less than 32.95 mm, by some value, then increase the thickness of the adjusting ring by the same amount compared to what was installed in the axle housing. When replacing only the large tapered bearing 5, so as not to disturb the position of the gear, measure the mounting height of the old and new bearings and, if the new bearing has a larger mounting height than the old one, then reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring 15, and if less, then increase it by differences in bearing heights.
Adjust the tension in bearings 5 ​​and 7 by selecting the adjusting ring 6 and tightening the nut 10. If this cannot be done, then change the number of spacers 13 and again by selecting the ring and tightening the nut, achieve such a preload of the bearings that there is no axial movement of the gear, and the gear rotates without great effort. Perform the check with a dynamometer with the rubber cuff 8 removed. If adjusted correctly, at the moment of turning the gear through the hole in the flange, the dynamometer should show 10-20 N (1-2 kgf) for run-in bearings and 25-35 N (2.5-3.5 kgf ) for new ones.

Replace the lubricant in the steering knuckle joints in the following order:

Rice. 2Knuckle of the front axle with final drive:

a-signal groove; I — right steering knuckle; II — left steering knuckle; III — wheel release clutch (for an alternative design, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 — oil seal; 2 — ball joint; 3 — steering knuckle hinge; 4 - gasket; 5 — grease nipple; 6 — kingpin; 7 — overlay; 8 — steering knuckle body; 9 — pin bushing; 10 - bearing; 11 — final drive driven shaft; 12 — hub; 13 - drive flange; 14 - coupling; 15 — locking ball; 16 — protective cap; 17 — coupling bolt; 18 - axle; 19 - lock nut; 20,23 - support washers; 21 — final drive drive gear; 22 — locking pin; 24 — rubber sealing ring; 25 — thrust washer; 26 — axle shaft casing; 27 — rotation limitation bolt; 28 — wheel rotation limiter; 29 — steering knuckle lever

1. Disconnect the flexible hose from the wheel cylinder of the brake mechanism and the tie rod ends from the levers, unscrew the bolts securing the ball joint sealing ring races and slide the ball joint seal ring races onto the ball joint neck (Fig. 2).
2. Unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the lever or the bolts securing the upper lining of the king pin and remove the lever or lining and the shims.
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the lower lining, remove the lining with adjusting shims.

Rice. 3 Kingpin puller

4. Use a puller (see Fig. 3) to remove the king pins from the steering knuckle housing and remove the housing assembly with the ball joint.
5. Carefully, without moving the forks apart (so that the balls do not jump out), remove the hinge assembly with bearings and gear from the steering knuckle housing. Without special need, you should not remove the hinge from the steering knuckle housing and disassemble it.
6. Remove used grease from the ball joint, joint and housing, rinse thoroughly with kerosene and apply fresh grease.
Perform assembly in the reverse order of disassembly, observing the requirements for adjusting the pins. When installing the flexible brake hose, be careful not to twist it. After assembly, bleed the brake drive system (see section “Service brake system”).

Disassemble the final drive in the following order:

1. After removing the hub with the brake drum (see section “Removing, disassembling and assembling hubs”), unscrew the clutch of the brake drive pipeline on the rear brake shield (on the front there is a tee of connecting tubes and a flexible hose) from the wheel cylinder, unscrew the nuts of the mounting studs axle and remove the spring washers, oil slinger, axle, axle gasket, spring spacer, brake assembly and brake shield gaskets.
2. Unscrew nut 45 (see Fig. 1) securing the bearing to the final drive driven shaft, unscrew the bolts securing the final drive housing cover, remove the cover assembled with the shaft, remove the cover gasket and press the shaft out of the cover.
Unlike the left final drive, shaft 39 and nut 45 of the right gear have a left-hand thread. The nut with a left-hand thread is marked with an annular groove, and the shaft is marked with a blind drilling with a diameter of 3 mm in the end of the splined end.
3. Unscrew the driven gear mounting bolts and remove the gear from shaft 39.
4. Mark the position of the roller bearing housing 25 on the final drive housing boss of the rear axle, unscrew the housing mounting bolts, and remove the bearing housing. Do not remove the front axle final drive roller bearing housing unless absolutely necessary. (For the further procedure for disassembling the final drive of the front axle, see above in the description of replacing the lubricant in the hinges of the steering knuckles.) Remove the retaining ring 22 of the ball bearing 21, the axle shaft 18 and the oil deflector 20 from the final drive housing.
5. Remove the roller bearing retaining ring 26, roller bearing 25, drive gear 47 and ball bearing from the axle shaft.