Cool buggy on OKI units
Drawings of this machine can be downloaded
Now about the car. As stated above, I work at a factory where I now know a great turner, where there are some machines and equipment. For our personal use, we bought an old 380 V semi-automatic and many other things. This is where the idea of a buggy came to mind. The desire and opportunity have appeared - cards in hand! I bought it on the occasion of OKU without a body.
Briefly about the first buggy. It took a month to build until it was in working order, in the evenings, until late. I hardly looked at the design; I was always tormented by the thought: will it work? And there’s a whole factory of overseers. Will I lose face? I had experience. The crappy advisers will laugh. I was in a hurry. As a result, the entire plant “flew” around the territory on a two-seater buggy. Everyone is as happy as children! Participated in the "Russian Winter". I made a victory lap on the ice where the races were held. Not in a buggy, of course. People with cameras did not get off my machine. As a result, the throttle cable was torn off, and then they called for a lap. In cold weather of minus 25 with wind, we urgently riveted the nut at the end of the cable and off we went.
In the spring, I took the car to the village, where the family had a blast all summer. All the relatives are delighted: barbecue, wine, racing - a complete blast!
Leto hatched the idea of a second car. I read the forum, looked at photos, made sketches. The emphasis is on design. Preferably less weight. Single seat, because I wanted more sportiness, but not for sports. In the end, approximately what I wanted appeared on paper. I figured out the dimensions for the components and for myself.
I started like the first bug on the first of September next year. (I’ll make a reservation right away that I didn’t take any photos during construction). To do this, I had to bomb the first one, with all due respect to her - and she drove and transported potatoes and firewood on a trailer from her mother-in-law. I also bought a broken OKU from a friend. The number somehow worked out. So there was something to pick from. I bought pipes, ordered a bunch of “ears” for the milling machine to attach the levers, so as not to bother myself. I started sculpting the frame using a pipe bender I made over the summer. The whole problem here was that there was no option on paper for attaching the upper arms. I decided to decide on the location later. Having completed almost the entire frame, I moved on to the front suspension. Based on the experience of the first bug, it was necessary to make the ground clearance higher. This had to be achieved by increasing the length of the levers, since with short levers, a break in the drives and steering rods would have been unacceptable. Well, the stability from the wide gauge has increased.
The length of the so-called salon was made as short and compact as possible, but not to the detriment of itself. And the width is absolutely fabulous - you don’t bump elbows, you get on (it’s just getting on, not getting on - it’s not a bus, however!) calmly. Here it was dictated by the fact that on the sides of the seat I wanted to place the battery, gear lever, electrics and, possibly, a tank.
There was no place for Baku and he moved behind the partition behind him. Because I was trying to achieve compactness, the rack in plans and in reality ended up in front of the axles of the front wheels. Accordingly, the swing arms are directed forward, for which the shackle fists swapped sides. The fists were converted to double levers. The rotary levers had to be bent in other directions.
The seat is homemade. The base is 1 mm metal, carefully lined with paralon, batting and leatherette by my beloved wife.
Well, in general, there are still a lot of problems and nerves frayed by the advisers, treated with more than one liter of beer. I am attaching photos that have already been posted earlier and new ones. If you have any questions, ask. If the computer works, I will answer. He's been bothering me for some reason lately.
Tests April 27
There was no time to go out on a serious trip this weekend. Near the house, a hundred-meter area was quickly stormed (I couldn’t stand the heat). So far the sensations are awesome: the suspension flows around the bumps, it seems like it’s about to throw you up, but you barely feel it. It starts off fun, corners normally, and the brakes are excellent! Life will show later. By the way, after installing the wings, after a few kilometers the brake hose on the front wore out. With the wheels fully turned, it touched the fender brackets. I redid it by adding one more hose from the classics. Now they look away from the caliper, rather than up. That's all for now.
Tests May 3
I drove through the nearby fields on the 99th over the weekend - everything was plowed and sown. But I’ll find a place to break away. And time and weather still don’t allow us to have a full blast. It's a little cold here... Again, a test drive near the house. I squeezed out everything possible at a short distance - the neighbors' eyes popped out, there was enough foolishness!
Conclusions:
When braking by the engine, it turns into a turn very sharply and confidently - + in this seat with such a suspension, I didn’t knock out any vertebrae (neither my wife nor I). In a potato field with a height difference of up to 15-20 cm (every 70 cm..."If you want to be advanced, this is a square nest") at 2 speeds! - +
after these races the suspension is in perfect order - +
a split gear adjusted on the camshaft for an earlier opening of the valves, which accordingly reduces the torque to lower speeds (but reducing the maximum power) does its job - you leave the place cheerfully - +
When the pedal is to the floor, steering control is uncertain. Moreover, the higher the speed, the more this effect manifests itself (I attribute it to the peculiarity of rear-wheel drive buggies with a rear engine) - -
After I gave one salabon a ride not so long ago, when in first gear (as if there were no more!) I squeezed as much as my foot could out of the engine, it looks like it’s time to change the head gasket. Presses into the expander.
I’m also inclined to think that it was not for nothing that they didn’t put the eight carb on the OKU. I can't fully configure it. There's an immediate problem with singles - I'm not the first. This is half the trouble. Adjusted it, but with a rich mixture. And in the transition between low and high speeds there are dips. I'll try to work some magic with the jets later, after replacing the gasket. It may be useful for someone in the future: start with what has been proven, and then try to improve. I liked the carb 08 because, according to my own (and not only my) feelings, the engine became more lively. Got enough adrenaline. My wife understands, but he twists his finger to his temple - he’s crazy..."Why are you driving like that?"
Should I write this, or is it not interesting?
You can see how long the machine has been running by dates and photos :)
If you decide to make a buggy with your own hands, you should know that there are two types of drawings: sports (racing) and tourist. When assembling the structure, do not forget that certain proportions must be observed; the parts must correspond to each other in size, weight, load, etc. A machine assembled by yourself should be light (about 300 kg).
The racing model must have a reinforced pipe frame. A reliable frame is required to protect the driver in the event of a collision or rollover at difficult distances. This car is made as a single-seater. A tourist buggy fits into a body and has two seats.
What tool do we need?
Before you start assembling at home, you need to prepare everything you need. You will need a set of tools for your work:
Welding(for initial setting of frame elements and final welding of pipes). Remember! When welding, metal tension occurs. Therefore, make sure that the frame does not move.
Bulgarian(the pipes will need to be cut and the edges aligned for welding work).
Pipe bender(they vary in price and in the amount of work they can perform: manual, manual hydraulic, electro-hydraulic, electric). The pipes will have to be bent in different places, according to the drawing.
Attention!When buying a pipe bender, ask what diameter and thickness of pipes it can work with, what the maximum bending angle is and the accuracy of the bending angle.
Drill.
Bars and cuttings of boards(for lifting or fixing various elements during construction).
Milling machine.
Metal crown.
Frame material:
Pipes(approximately 50 m of pipe, diameter 40 mm, wall thickness 3 mm). Pipes can be suture or seamless.
What do we take as a basis?
You can assemble a buggy yourself, using the supporting frame of a motorcycle, Oka, Zaporozhets, Niva or VAZ as a basis. You need a body, frame, wheels, fuel tank, engine, brake system, shock absorber, exhaust pipe, air filter, steering wheel (can be taken from a racing kart), seat (preferably equipped with a headrest). This is not a complete list of everything you need.
A homemade buggy model will not have a hood, trunk, or doors. Your windshield will be replaced by a fine metal mesh.
Attention! The engine and fuel tank are separated from the driver's seat by a partition made of fire-resistant material. A fire extinguisher is attached to the right side of the driver (one pipe is directed towards the engine, the second towards the driver). Fire protection must be activated from both sides (from two levers).
Buggy from a motorcycle
If we take an old IZH or Ural motorcycle as a basis, the assembly can result in a compact buggy weighing 300 kg, which can travel off-road at a speed of 80 km/h. To assemble a buggy, you will need a motorcycle engine (although this is a somewhat noisy option) and parts from a small car.
Oka is a good donor for a buggy
Oka is a very profitable donor for a buggy. The Oka engine is liquid cooled and therefore protected from overheating, the hubs are light in weight, and the steering rack has a sufficient margin of safety. The brake system and shock absorbers from Oka are suitable for your buggy.
Attention!When dismantling the car into parts for the buggy, do not forget to keep the certificate of deregistration.
The Oka seat is suitable only for extreme sports enthusiasts (it is too hard). It is best to look for a disassembled seat with good lateral support. At the same time, we must not forget about the headrest - it protects your cervical vertebrae during off-road driving. Buggy based on the Oka is characterized by high cross-country ability.
“Zaporozhets” for buggy, ready-made version
If we take the Zaporozhets as a basis, then this will be a ready-made rear-engine model. The engine needs to be mounted backwards (this will improve its cooling and evenly distribute the weight along the axles). The differential will have to be reversed (switching the right and left sides). Rework the gear shift drive (since the gearbox rod rotates towards the rear bumper from the driver - and this complicates the rocker system).
Make a buggy from a VAZ
If you are afraid of problems with electronics, then it is better to use a carburetor VAZ as a basis. The engine, like all buggies, is mounted behind the driver. The rear wheels are driven by front axle shafts and VAZ hubs. The axle shafts are attached to a cut-off bridge from a VAZ 2106.
The axles on the rear axle are fixed without the ability to turn. And the front ones are like on a car. The differential is blocked (for uniform transmission to the axles). If you take the front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, the rigidity of the rear suspension will increase. The upper part of the buggy frame will need to be welded from seamless water pipes (section 30 - 50 mm).
Buggy based on Niva
If you are going to use a buggy as transport for fishing or in the forest, then you can take the Niva as a basis. On the basis of the Niva, you can build an all-wheel drive buggy. Both front suspensions from Niva are used as suspension (the entire front suspension assembly weighs 130 kg). UAZ tires are installed on overcooked Niva wheels. To increase travel, you can lengthen the suspension arms as much as possible (the track can increase to 1550 mm).
Choosing a suspension
Independent suspension is a great option for a buggy. The levers are suitable for longitudinal and transverse (you can take the front suspension from Japanese cars). This is a triangular lever: one side of it is attached across the car through one silent block, and the second serves as a jib that takes on the load. On sports buggies it is recommended to install a suspension with one trailing arm. This option is the simplest and easiest. With such a suspension, body roll will be minimized, and the weight of the car will be evenly distributed.
Good to know! If you plan to drive a buggy on public roads, you will have to install headlights, a bumper, and direction indicators (everything is the same as on a regular car, so as not to violate traffic rules).
In an independent candle-type suspension, the elastic element is a spring that moves along vertical guides at the ends of the bridge beam. If the driving wheels of the buggy have independent suspension, then the universal joint is used to transmit torque from the main gear to the wheels. The most commonly used cardan is with two joints. On simpler designs, one universal joint is installed in the axle shafts.
Front
The front suspension of the buggy is best done in the form of the letter “A” on long wishbones. It is this design that gives large wheel travel and allows you to change the angle of the spring with the shock absorber (thus adjusting the stiffness of the suspension).
When assembling the pendulum arm, pay attention to the material and quality of the welds, because this part will be subject to very heavy loads. Calculate the levers for the maximum width of the base of the letter “A” (this will extend the life of the silent blocks). The width of the lever should not interfere with the rotation of the wheel. The disadvantage of the design is that the travel of the lower ball joint pin in its socket is limited (up or down, it will not be in the place where we would like).
Rear
For the rear suspension of the buggy, we select a trailing arm, which keeps the wheel from moving (the wheel sits rigidly on the cardan). However, there is one flaw: the wheel camber changes for the worse.
To achieve stability in motion, variable values of the wheel inclination angle are needed. Levers will allow movement in two planes. If there is such a suspension on the rear axle, then the front suspension can be anything. If in such a suspension the swing axis of the lever passes through the center of the axle shaft cardan, then there is no need to install a second cardan at the wheel hub.
My friend suggested making a buggy, a real one in the right way smile.gif After thinking a little, I agreed to his provocation. My friend purchased 99.9% of the parts for the buggy, and I helped with welding, ideas, tools, space and, most importantly, company (I can’t do all this alone)
So here is the uprooted motor with gearbox. The heart so to speak...
Start. This means, as usual, the soul demanded rational decisions, so the buggy from the Soviet magazine “Modelist Constructor” was taken as a basis, it was called AB-82, and had most of the spare parts from the world’s kindest motorized vehicle, ZAZ 968, i.e. Zaporozhets.
For some time we found tools, did a mega-cleanout in the garage and looked for a donor. Tools (the most necessary) were found. You can work in the garage (cleaned up, made the lights, etc.) Purchased a ZAZ 968, red rear-engine coupe.
So we chased the ghost around the city, it drives around, it’s alive. They cut it up in the garage (there is no photo of the cut-up, apparently we were very carried away by the process)
We arrived at the garage, cleaned up, made the lights, it seemed like decent, more or less working conditions... We bought ordinary iron profiles (profile pipe) at a metal depot and started sculpting with a welding machine, which means... Art
The art grew, first the bottom was welded, then the drawings were 90% followed. The frame was made a little larger than in the drawings.
Somewhere along the way, a rear suspension appeared. These are original Zaporozhye levers with hubs, and on original “ears”, carefully removed from the donor body in advance. The opportunity arose to move into my garage, which we did. We worked hard to create light, order and beauty; nothing comes for free.
As it was
How did it happen?
Pay attention to the high-tech technology of painting walls (we thought about making them lighter, like beauty and light is reflected) The technology is like this, one paints chaotically in one place, the second in another, the paint suddenly runs out (sellers are such sellers... they promised that for the whole garage 10 layers is enough for a bucket... but really...) and that’s the end of the event))
The front control arms and suspension were made.
The lever pipes are rods from the rear suspension of a classic VAZ. With silent blocks.
The ears on the frame for silents are homemade from 2mm metal.
The ball mounts on the bottom are a piece of the VAZ front arm.
Ball vase of course.
On top there is a relay tip of a vase instead of a ball one.
The bushing for adjusting the camber is welded into the upper arm (the bushing was made by a turner)
The turner also made a spacer for the upper ball joint (they have different cones)
Initially, IZHP 4 shock absorbers were installed, but this is too weak an option.
Later they changed it.
So far there are some tires to roll around.
The suspension, it must be said, was not welded from scratch. The kinematics of the levers are measured in such a way that the contact patch of the tire with the road is always maximum. Checking the suspension travel. This is already a very interesting moment when the structure can already be rolled somehow! Joy like 7 year old children.
Fiery heart, engine i.e. Let's try it on. The engine and gearbox mounts remain factory, with minor modifications.
A general photo with a suspension and a homemade bucket made of 0.8 metal according to drawings from our wonderful Internet (what would we do without it?!)
Again, erotic fantasies on themes with a roof... Design and engineering (from the word engineer or fig?))
Time has passed. We chose how beautiful it would be.
Space gravitsap. The shot in between is meaningless and cool.
By the way, here's a closer look at the motor mounts. Just in case)
We started making pedals, fastening tanks and cylinders. Alas, there are no high-quality photos of the process left, either covered with writing or in between, like here. But the main thing is there is gas)) The steering rack is also fixed offhand. This moment is adjusted for a long time so that the balls in the steering rack are in a certain place relative to the suspension mounting lines. In short, so that you steer the car, and not it steers you over the bumps. Steering rack OKA (1111) VAZ 2107 steering joints, very comfortable and for safety + VAZ classic steering ends.
The first descents from the hill, the steering wheel is on a stick with duct tape, there are no seats, there are no brakes, there is nothing... Don’t do this, it’s dangerous for everything)))) An ocean of joy, of course. The front wheels are normal, VAZ, the rear wheels are ZAZ (the VAZ is a temporary dummy for a photo, in reality only the ZAZ wheels are on the ZAZ hub)
Bottom. Because it's dangerous to ride without it. Sheet of metal, 0.8 in my opinion. Initially it was attached with self-tapping screws with a drill, but as practice has shown, they are not suitable for these purposes, they fall out from vibration, and are often cut off by the ground when jumping and so on. And then there’s the mystery of who will assemble them with wheels... Later, the bottom was welded with spots. By the way, from the start the project was cooked with electrodes. And with the move to a new home, the machine was created only with semi-automatic CO2 and 0.8mm wire. More convenient, faster, lighter, this type of welding has a lot of advantages.
After the first tests, hopes for compact, lightweight shock absorbers dissolved. We put two of these on each side, it got better, we rode them for a while, but not the same. By the way, out of the corner of your eye you can see that there is a throttle cable, clutch and brake reservoirs, brake pipes and a high-quality steering rack. These kinds of moments require a lot of thought and creativity, so we forgot about the photo. There is linoleum on the floor of the buggy)) It seems like it was temporarily cultivated.
Now 28-year-old car service worker Denis Kostomarkin is driving around the Tula off-road in a mini-SUV.
The idea to make a buggy with my own hands came to me when I read in Sloboda about motorcycle enthusiast Dmitry Sytin, who assembled an ATV himself,” says Denis Kostomarkin. - Even though I haven’t done such things before, I still work in the service industry, I can do a few things...
Denis was not in the mood for ATVs and tricycles - he preferred 4-wheelers with a roof. Denis bought an old Oka for 15 thousand rubles - and the conversion began!
“The Oka was in such a state that it was simply unrealistic to drive it,” says Denis Kostomarkin. - That same day I tousled her like a hot water bottle.
The subframe and “engine” from the car, as well as the suspension and gearbox, were used. In total, it took about six months to build the buggy, and the car enthusiast finished the work just the other day: and is already about to start a new job.
“Plans for the future are to sell the buggy for a hundred thousand,” Denis laughs. - Otherwise, my wife Julia won’t allow me to start a new job until I deal with the old one. There are also plans to make the Oka car something like a two-seater jeep, with good acoustics and without a roof. It will be something like a golf cart, like in foreign films.
Tula resident Denis Kostomarkin made his Oka buggy in just six months.
BODY assembled from pipes to which the lining was welded and painted.
COST: 5000 rub.
WHEELS"Dunlop" brands were removed from the ATV, the rims were cut for them, an additional strip of metal was inserted.
COST: 2000 rub.
AIR INTAKE serves to cool the engine, which is located behind the driver of the buggy.
SEAT driver was removed from the Oka car.
 | STEERING WHEEL The buggy was previously installed on the VAZ-2108 car. DASHBOARD- from a VAZ-2106 car. |
| TANK with a volume of 14 liters was borrowed from the Ant scooter. |
| ENGINE They took it from an Oka car, went through it, installed new pistons, rings, etc. COST: 6000 rub. |
| MUFFLER I got the Prosport brand for free, they welded a mesh into it to make it work quieter. |
| MIRRORS rear view taken from an old scooter. |
| FOG LIGHTS, for which the brackets are made, are borrowed from the Toyota Camry car. |
| SHOCK ABSORBERS We used to stand on a Ural motorcycle. COST: 2000 rub. |
OUR HELP
Buggy(English: buggy - convertible, light stroller). Initially - a sports carriage, a phaeton in equestrian sport. Now used to name an off-road vehicle for driving on sand. Buggies first appeared in the 50s of the last century in the USA.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE BUGGY
Engine power: 36 hp
Engine capacity: 630 cc cm
Maximum speed: 100 km/h
Fuel consumption per 100 km: 6 liters
Tank volume: 14 liters
Fuel consumed: A-92
Drive: rear
Ground clearance: 30 cm
Dear readers! Have you assembled a car from scrap materials, painted your car entirely, or done some cool exterior/interior tuning? Call and tell us about it by phone 23-55-99. Head of the section Sergey BIRYUK.
