On front-wheel drive cars there is such a part in the drive as a CV joint - it ensures the transmission of torque from the transmission to the drive wheels. Car enthusiasts call this part a “grenade”. There are two CV joints in the car. These are external and internal. Let's talk about the external grenade.
Device
For those who just got behind the wheel and purchased a front-wheel drive car, this information will be very useful. Often, beginners are practically unfamiliar with the structure of the car and cannot correctly diagnose problems. Let's try to fill this gap. The outer CV joint, or CV joint, is mounted on the axle shaft. The element is a shaft with retaining rings that hold the hinges. CV joints operate in harsh conditions and are equipped with boots for protection and durability.
The outer joint is connected to the front wheel through a spline connection. It is held to the wheel by a hub nut. At the other end of the axle shaft there is an internal joint, which is mounted on the gearbox and engages with the differential.
As for the CV joint itself, most front-wheel drive cars use the so-called “Retseppa” joint, or six-ball joint. It has an outer and inner race with grooves in which the balls move. The device also has a separator. A hinge of this type performs well even at very high speeds and the wheels are turned as much as possible in any direction.
There is another type of CV joint. It is often installed on Japanese and European cars. This is the so-called tripod. A part in the form of a three-rayed star is fixedly installed in its body, on which rollers are mounted. The joint receives torque through a fork with spherical channels in which the rollers move. This design is good from all sides, but the only drawback is the small angle of change in the axis of rotation. But the very possibility of axial movement allows the tripod to be used as a constant velocity joint.
The inner CV joint operates when the rotation angle of one of the drive wheels is from 10 to 30 degrees. The outer grenade is also turned at the same angle when moving straight. When the driver turns the steering wheel and the car turns, the angle of the outer joint increases up to 60 degrees. When a car moves over uneven surfaces, the distance from the outer CV joint to the inner one changes almost constantly. The axle shaft, located between the two hinges, is fixed so that when the distances change, the shaft moves inward or outward. Axle shafts, where on one side there is a “Rtseppa” hinge, and on the other there is a tripod, are expensive to manufacture. Therefore, on budget models, “Rtseppa” hinges are installed on both sides of the axle shaft.
Typical faults
It is believed that the external grenade is a very reliable and durable element in the entire machine. The service life of CV joints can very significantly exceed the service life of all other elements under normal operating conditions. There are no serious problems with the hinges. Usually all malfunctions are associated with a violation of their normal operation.
As we know, inside the hinge there are balls and channels for them. Under the influence of dust, dirt, water, the channels and balls wear out intensively. The CV joint is protected by a rubber boot, fixed to the axle shaft using special clamps.
Any malfunctions are associated with defects in the boot and the entry of sand, dirt, and water into the unit. This leads to corrosion and intense wear. In this case, replacement will help. The price of a grenade varies. For example, for a “ten” it costs about 1100-1300 rubles.
Signs of trouble
If the grenade (CV joint) is faulty, then this can be determined by the characteristic crunch when driving on the wheels turned out. The crunch will not occur when you turn the steering wheel itself, but during the process of turning the car in one direction or the other. The sound can also be heard when starting to move, especially during sudden starts.
Causes of malfunctions
So, it often happens that there is a defective, defective VAZ external grenade on sale (usually made in China). It's all about the low quality of the metal. You can also highlight the violation of installation rules during the replacement process. The CV joint will quickly become unusable if there is insufficient or complete absence of lubricant. Lubricant may leak from the unit if the boot is damaged while the machine is moving.
Often, careless driving on bad roads leads to failure of joints. CV joints do not like impacts and bad bumpy roads. And finally, we can highlight natural wear and tear, when the hinge “dies” on its own due to age.
Diagnostics
First you need to try to determine whether the outer grenade is crunchy. The car must be stationary. Take turns pulling the axle shaft on each side. If there is a knock, then there is play in the grenade. This hinge needs to be changed. Another method will require dismantling and disassembling the unit - the fault can be identified this way.
Next, the car should move on a flat road. To find out which joint has failed, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, and then to the left. If there is a crunch after turning to the right, it means that the outer grenade needs to be replaced with the right one. If it crunches after turning left, then you need to change the left one.
Repair
First you need to get to the grenade. To do this, you need to remove the wheel bolts and the hub nut. Then the wheel is removed completely, and then the hub nut is unscrewed. Next, the retaining ring is removed from the shaft. Then - the brake caliper. Next, unscrew the drive mounting bolts and press out the ball joint. Now you can completely remove the hub and gain direct access to the external grenade. It is removed and disassembled.
If there are signs of wear on the hinge elements, the grenade is completely replaced. However, this won’t really hurt your pocket. For example, the price of a grenade at a VAZ is on average 1,200 rubles. If there is wear only on the balls, then they are sold separately in auto stores at low prices. The most important thing is to choose the right size balls. If the separator is worn out, the hinge can be repaired by replacing the separator or repositioning the CV joint grenade.
In the first option, it is enough to purchase a repair kit for repairs or select a suitable separator at one of the disassembly sites. The main thing is that the wear of the new part is less. The second method is to swap the CV joints from the right and left axle shafts to the other side. The fact is that the separator has uneven wear. In a different direction of rotation, unworn parts will work.
Replacement
Not everyone knows how to change a CV joint. In fact, it changes quite simply. To replace the removed one, install a new unit on the axle shaft, fill it with lubricant and reassemble it in the reverse order.
Inner CV joint of VAZ 2110 or constant velocity joint , or popularly “grenade”, is an integral part of the transmission of a front-wheel drive car.
Its main role is the continuous transmission of rotation from the gearbox to the wheels at different angles. Despite the same principle of operation of all CV joints, they differ in design features for different car models. In addition, different operating conditions cause differences in the design of the external and internal CV joints.
The CV joint performs an important function in a car; it consists of seven parts:
- Retaining ring.
- Balloons.
- Separator.
- The boot, which is indicated in the technical manual as a bellows cover.
- Frame.
- Drive shaft.
- Inner ring.
The VAZ 2110 drive unit is responsible for transmitting torque to the wheel from the gearbox. The CV joint allows the front wheel pair to make turns by normalizing the changing angle between the axle shafts. The machine has two grenades: the external one transmits rotation to the hub, and the internal one is needed to transmit rotation from the gearbox to the shaft.
Where is the inner CV joint of the VAZ 2110 located?
It’s easiest to see it from below the car, by the way, and you’ll have to remove it by crawling under the bottom, although you can do without it (For example, you can put planks under the front wheels and lift the front part with two jacks, provided that both jacks stand on these planks, thereby in front of will be higher, this is especially convenient if the car is tall), but it’s still better to put the car on a lift and replace the CV joint you need with a new one, but we’ll immediately explain to you what outer and inner CV joints mean so that you understand this and are no longer confused (It’s just that in the article we will often talk about them and so that you can immediately understand what kind of CV joint we are talking about), so the outer one is the one that faces the car wheel and is inserted into the hub (Both outer ones are indicated by green arrows), and the inner one is the one that is inserted into the box (They are indicated by yellow arrows) and there are four total CV joints in front-wheel drive cars, two of them are located on the left side and go to the left wheel, and the other two are on the right and go to the right wheel, but here are the drives on which CV joints Only two are installed and both of them are indicated by blue arrows in the photo.
The location of the internal and external CV joints of the VAZ 2110 is indicated by arrows
Diagnostics and troubleshooting of the internal CV joint of the VAZ 2110
If you constantly pay attention and monitor the internal CV joint, it will easily last 150-200 thousand km. Otherwise, malfunctions may appear within the first hundred thousand km.
The main enemies of any hinge mechanisms are dust and dirt, which act as an abrasive and accelerate the wear of the grenade. As soon as the car owner misses the damage to the elastic cover and drives for some time without replacing it, the same dirt will get inside, which sooner or later will do its job, even if you change the boot.
There are other reasons leading to malfunction and replacement of elements:
- there is not enough lubrication in the mechanism or its quality leaves much to be desired;
- driving too aggressively on bad roads, constantly creating extreme loads on the CV joints;
- factory defect in the parts of the unit.
Conclusion: most of the causes can be foreseen and prevented through prevention, postponing the replacement of grenades indefinitely.
If during operation of the VAZ 2110 the following signs of malfunction appear, then it is necessary to carry out additional diagnostics:
- while driving around a turn, a characteristic crunching sound is heard from the front of the car, as if steel balls are touching the body during operation;
- the same thing, only instead of a crunch, a knock is heard, it may disappear when moving in a straight line;
- A constant crunching sound that does not disappear when driving in a straight line indicates wear on the internal grenade.
Remember that after such noise appears on one side or both, you cannot immediately delay repairs. Otherwise, a faulty CV joint can cause a lot of trouble right on the move.
To make sure the grenade is broken, you can check it in 2 ways:
- Choose a flat area so that there is enough space for the Niva to turn. Make several circles around it clockwise and counterclockwise, turning the steering wheel all the way. Listen carefully to the sounds that arise. If they sound like a crunching sound, proceed to part 2 of the diagnosis.
- Place the machine over the inspection hole and check for play in all 4 units manually by rocking and turning the axle shaft in different directions. A worn joint will immediately make itself known.
- If it turns out that the boot is damaged or water is leaking from it, then the CV joint in this place has probably become unusable.
Now let's talk in more detail about play in ball joints. The play resulting from wear of the support will also negatively affect the condition of the CV joint. And if, while driving at speed, the ball joint pin is torn out of the mount, the inner CV joint may even be broken. By the way, all the main blows of fate are taken by external grenades. And this is due to the fact that they are connected through the hub to the wheel. It is from the wheel that the constant velocity joint receives powerful blows and shocks. And water and dirt from under the wheels get faster and more onto the outer CV joints. Therefore, in order to damage the CV joint that connects to the box, you need to try. The exception is the situation when the ball joint pin is pulled out.
Inner CV joint VAZ 2110 - step-by-step do-it-yourself replacement instructions
Before you begin work on replacing the internal CV joint of the VAZ 2110 yourself, you need to prepare everything.
To do this, you need to secure the car, turn on 4th gear, and tighten the handbrake. Secure the rear wheels with wheel chocks. If they are not available, use bars of a similar shape. Remove the protective cap, unscrew the hub nut using an “arm” (extension) - a pipe or a pry bar. After the hub nut is removed, unscrew the wheel mounting bolts.
Let's move on to step-by-step instructions:
- Using a jack, hang up the wheel on which the CV joint is supposed to be replaced.
- Unscrew the bolts to remove the thrust washer of the hub nut.
- Remove the 2 bolts that secure the lower ball joint of the steering knuckle.
- If the CV joint is being replaced on the right, turn the steering wheel as far as possible to the left, and if on the left, then to the right.
- Pull out the steering knuckle and strut. Remove the splined end of the outer CV joint from the hub.
Using a pry bar, remove the inner joint from the gearbox. - Fix the drive shaft in a vice, remove the clamps from the outer and inner CV joints. Turn the anthers inside out. If they are torn or cut somewhere, you can simply cut them off with a knife.
- Remove the VAZ 2110 CV joint from the shaft. You can use a hammer and a wooden or bronze adapter.
- Assembly is performed in reverse order. At the same time, install a new hub nut. Upon completion of the tightening, you need to touch its edge to avoid unwinding.
- When installing the inner CV joint, a plastic plug is placed on the end of the shaft.
- Before installing the VAZ 2110 CV joint, you need to make sure that a sufficient amount of lubricant is applied. Place a retaining ring on the inner CV joint.
- After the drive is placed in the box, place it in the side gear so that it is completely locked. This can be done by lightly tapping the surface of the wooden adapter with a hammer along the entire perimeter of the shaft axis.
Careful disassembly of unfamiliar components and assemblies is the key to trouble-free assembly. In practice, it is not always possible to keep track of all the subtleties and nuances. Fortunately, it cannot be called an overly complex assembly, therefore, after reading our article and watching the attached videos, you will know how to assemble the internal CV joint.
Kinds
In modern cars, only 2 types of designs are used for internal CV joints.
Rzeppa
As an example, let's take the internal velocity joint of the VW Transporter T4. In order to assemble a ball CV joint, you need:
- fix the drive shaft in a vice;
- put a boot with a metal shield on the shaft;
- install a limiting ring;
- the housing with the separator and inner race can be assembled separately. It is necessary to put the separator on the holder and place it inside the housing. Then, turning out the cage and separator, insert one ball at a time. The video shows the assembly process of a CV joint fixed in a vice. Initially, a race, separator and housing are put on the drive shaft. Then, as in the previous case, balls are inserted into the grooves one by one.
Tripod
It is much easier to assemble a tripod-type CV joint. All you need is:
- install the boot on the drive shaft in advance;
- place a hinge with rollers on the slots;
- fix the hinge by installing a retaining ring (there is a groove for it on the drive shaft);
- generously lubricate all rubbing pairs;
- install the housing;
- fix the anthers;
- manually develop the mechanism by making several turns in different directions.
For a visual representation, we suggest watching a video of the assembly of the outer and inner CV joints.
Important points when replacing
Useful tips that will not only help you assemble the inner CV joint correctly, but also extend the life of the joints and angular velocities in general.
It is most convenient to compress and release retaining rings using special pliers. Without them, assembly and disassembly may require more time and nerves.
Hello, dear car enthusiasts! Front drive wheels provide car owners with many bonuses in the form of: more obedient wheels, increased maneuverability, stability on slippery roads and other delights.
In return, the machine, namely its chassis coupled with the drive, will require additional attention. The front wheels are able to pull the car only thanks to the presence of a shaft connecting the hub to the variable gearbox.
However, that's not all. It would be impossible to transmit rotation from the transmission to the wheels without special devices installed at the ends of the shaft - CV joints.
- this is, today, the only way to transmit rotational motion between axle shafts located at an angle to each other.
In this regard, any self-respecting car enthusiast should know how to remove and disassemble the CV joint, diagnose, maintain and repair it.
How to remove a CV joint yourself without the help of a car service
Despite the apparent complexity of the front-wheel drive design of a car, regardless of its make and model, the design of this unit is quite simple and similar in all cars.
In order to produce, it is enough to have a garage with an inspection hole or an overpass to facilitate access to the lower part of the car, as well as a set of standard tools.
As a rule, experienced car enthusiasts manage their work without any special devices, but if there is a desire to speed up repair work, you can purchase a CV joint puller.
Considering that each drive wheel has two hinges, repair work can be carried out depending on the following types of failure:
- removal of the internal CV joint and its repair;
- removing the outer CV joint;
- Removal and repair includes a shaft and two joints.
How to remove the inner CV joint in the garage
Repairing an internal CV joint is an event that is quite rare, but it is necessary to have the skills to handle this mechanism, because for its long life it is necessary to carry out preventive measures and lubrication.
Before describing the technology that includes removing the internal CV joint, it should be noted that in this case, an inspection hole will be simply necessary, because the joint cage is bolted (6-8 pieces) directly to the differential gears, and this is the lowest point of the transmission.
After all the fastening bolts have been unscrewed, the steering wheel should be turned to free the spline joints from moving freely. Using a pry bar, the CV joint is very easily removed from the mounting socket. Removing it from the shaft is also easy; to do this, you just need to unfasten the retaining ring and the boot clamps.
A strong recommendation to all car enthusiasts: you should not remove the CV joint from the shaft under the car and, especially, do not disassemble it. It is much more convenient and rational to remove the shaft with two CV joints at the same time, and then perform all the manipulations on the workbench with a vice.
How to remove the outer CV joint yourself
The outer CV joint, which is installed directly at the hub, although more accessible, will require more time and effort to remove. Here you will have to almost completely disassemble the front suspension.
The wheel is removed, the hub nut is unscrewed and the lock washer is removed. After unscrewing the lower ball joint, the moving strut allows you to remove the CV joint axle shaft.
Repairing CV joints can be associated with certain difficulties. The first is the inability to remove the axle shafts or shaft from the splined joint. There are several options for getting out of the situation. First you need to take a wooden or brass spacer and try to knock out the axle shaft.
If nothing could be done at this stage, you will need a CV joint puller. One of the most common and simple pullers is made in the form of a horseshoe, which is attached to the axle shaft, and the thrust bolts remove the CV joint when rotating.
It is not difficult to disassemble the CV joint itself; for this you need:
- apply marks on the holder and body for reassembly in the same position;
- tilt the shaft with the holder at the end as much as possible to one side;
- Remove the ball from the holder on the opposite side and perform the procedure with all the balls in turn.
There is an opinion among some experts that it is enough to simply wash the CV joint with diesel fuel and “fill it in” with lubricant again without disassembling it.
In this case, there is a high probability that fragments of old retaining rings or other debris will remain inside. If the CV joint has already been removed, then it is better to disassemble it, wash it, reassemble it and lubricate it.
Installation of the CV joint after replacement or maintenance is carried out in the reverse order of removal.
Hi all! I had an idea to make corkscrews like this and I implemented it. Not just any corkscrews, but corkscrews from the separator of a car CV joint. Actually, it acts as a handle here.
I won’t describe what a CV joint is, but the car won’t run without it. Don't remove it from your car. Better ask your neighbor)). But seriously, many workshops give away such things because... they are no longer needed.
The CV joint is disassembled, its guts are taken out and forward for cleaning. Somehow it reminds me of fish now)). The separator itself migrated into the corkscrew in almost its original form.
Now the corkscrew spiral. She is forged. Made from so-called spring steel. To put it simply, we heat the spring in the forge. Then we make a straight line out of it and cut a piece of the required length. Next, we form this segment into a spiral for a corkscrew.
The penultimate stage is welding. We weld together the separator and the spiral. Cleaning and sanding again.
The final step, almost like the icing on the cake, is the wine stopper! We drive it into the handle of the corkscrew, and it’s ready!
In other photographs, the corkscrew is made using the same technology, but the handle is a piece of a blast hole. All sorts of parts fall off from cars...
For me personally, the most difficult thing in this whole process is twisting the spiral in the right direction. This is the problem. I can't count how many times I've turned it the wrong way!
P.S. Each of the corkscrews is fully functional, because I think it is stupid to make a corkscrew that is not able to cope with its duties. Checked :-).
Sasha Novikov,
workshop of A. Novikov.
