Oil for Skoda Rapid 1.6 mpi. We serve Skoda Rapid: Czech salad

Skoda Rapid engine oil changes are provided every 15,000 km or every scheduled maintenance. However, often, many motorists change the engine oil more often - every 8-10 thousand km, and this is correct. The more often the oil is changed, the better for the engine.

Which engine oil to choose for a 1.6 liter engine

For the 1.4-liter 122-horsepower TSI gasoline engine, 1.2-liter TSI gasoline engines in versions with 86 or 105 horses and for the 1.6-liter 105-horsepower TDI diesel engine, VW long Life III 5W-30 synthetic oil is used.

For a more powerful 1.6-liter naturally-aspirated engine with 105 horsepower and a 1.2-liter naturally-aspirated engine with 75 horsepower, VW Special Plus 5W-40 oil is poured into them.

From the factory with Volkswagen motor oil with approval 502 or 504. When changing the oil during scheduled maintenance, the service may offer you other options for motor oils.

Motor oils for Skoda Rapid

• Mobil1 ESP 5W-30
• Addinol Giga Light MV 0530 LL 5W-30
• Xado 504/507 5W-30
• NGN Emerald 5W-30
• Orlenoil Platinum Maxexpert V 5W-30
• Lotos Quazar LLIII 5W-30
• Motul Specific 504/507 5W-30
• Fuchs Titan GT1 PRO C-3 5W-30
• Elf Solaris LLX SAE 5W-30
• Total QUARTZ INEO Long Life 5W-30
• Valvoline SynPower Xtreme XL-III C3 5W-30
• Shell Helix Ultra ECT 5W-30
• Shell Helix Ultra Professional AV-L 5W-30
• Neste City Pro W LongLife III SAE 5W-30
• Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30
• Gulf Oil Gulf Formula GVX 5W-30
• Eurol Syntence Longlife 5W-30
• Castrol Castrol Edge 5W-30LL
• BP Visco 7000 Longlife III 5W-30
• Aral SuperTronic LongLife III 5W-30
• Redline Euro Series 5W-30

Engine oil filling volumes for Skoda Rapid

• 1.2 (CGPC) - 2.8 l
• 1.2 TSI (CBZA, CBZB) - 3.9 liters
• 1.4 aspirated - 3.2 l
• 1.4 TSI turbo (CAXA) - 3.6 l
• 1.6 (CFNA) - 4.5 liters
• 1.8 TSi - 4.6 l

Engine oil life

The service life and resource of engine oil are affected by frequent use around the city, idle time in traffic jams, when the engine is idling, in which case the oil service life is reduced.

Water causes severe damage to motor oils.

When water enters it in a ratio of 0.2%, it begins to quickly decompose the additives existing in it. Further, when the engine operates with such oil, the tubes and channels of the engine become clogged with thick deposits. In the future, this leads to breakdowns of parts in the engine!

Checking the condition of the engine oil

Checking the quality of engine oil in an engine is quite easy. We take out the dipstick and drop a drop of oil on a white sheet of paper. We wait 15 minutes and analyze. The drop of oil should be at least 3 cm in diameter.

The “Rapid” model produced by the Czech company Skoda entered the market relatively recently. This is an inexpensive car that fully justifies its cost. The car attracts consumers with its appearance, high level of comfort, reliability and decent technical characteristics, taking into account the price tag for such a car.

The car does not stand out as something bright; it can hardly be called unique. But for all its ordinariness, the car provides a good operating experience. "Rapid" is inexpensive to maintain and allows you to do many jobs yourself.

A car owner can change the engine oil in a Skoda Rapid with his own hands, without encountering complex or difficult stages of work. The designers have provided convenient access to the drain and fill holes; replacing the filter also does not pose any problems. This allows you to save money on service stations after the warranty period ends.

Replacement frequency

The Skoda Rapid is well adapted to Russian operating conditions. But this does not allow, in most cases, to replace consumables with the frequency indicated in the official manual for the car.

The manufacturer believes that with moderate use, the engine oil can be changed every 15 thousand kilometers. In practice, actual figures differ from those indicated.

The shortening of the period between is due to several factors:

• untimely topping up of oil;
• refueling at low-quality gas stations;
• poor condition of roads;
• sudden temperature changes;
• climate;
• aggressive driving style;
• exceeding the recommended speed;
• regular driving under load (full trunk or trailer);
• use of low-quality consumables and spare parts, etc.

There are many reasons that can negatively affect the condition of the engine oil and the loss of its physical and chemical properties. Therefore, the Rapid car owner is obliged to regularly check the level and condition of the motor fluid, add it in a timely manner or completely change it.

According to the manual, the period between replacements is 15 thousand kilometers, but the actual interval is usually at the level of 8 - 12 thousand km. It all depends on the operating conditions and the owner’s attitude towards his car.

Level and condition

A standard oil dipstick is used to check the current level or volume of oil in the crankcase. It is located in the oil filler neck in the engine compartment.

It needs to be removed, wiped dry with a lint-free cloth, returned to its place and taken out again. A trace of an oil film remains on the dipstick in the area of ​​the minimum and maximum level marks (“Min” and “Max”).

The Skoda Rapid owner's task is to maintain the oil level between the two marks on the dipstick. This indicates that it is poured into the engine. When the level drops below the “Min” mark, it is imperative to add oil to the crankcase.

It also happens that due to inexperience or accident, they fill in too much. It is also impossible to leave an excessive amount of lubricant, otherwise problems with the engine will arise and leaks will begin. You will have to drain some of the oil from the crankcase.

To check the condition of the fluid, you can drain it from the crankcase if the time for scheduled maintenance is approaching, or use the same dipstick. Many people also use a syringe with a long hose, which they insert into the oil filler neck and extract a small amount of lubricant.

By appearance, you can give an approximate assessment of the current condition of the lubricant. It is better to compare the sample with fresh, similar oil. If the lubricant from the engine is dark, traces of soot, chips or dirt are visible in it, this indicates severe wear and the need for urgent replacement. Typically, the liquid becomes like this after prolonged use without changing the lubricant.

The manufacturer recommends filling Skoda Rapid car engines with oils with tolerances 502 or 504. In terms of viscosity class, this corresponds to the following options:

• 5W30;
• 5W40;

Here you can only use synthetic oil, so don’t even think about any mineral compounds or semi-synthetics.

When the car is still running on factory engine oil, it is important to know exactly what kind of working fluid is used there. This depends on the engine installed on the Rapid.

A total of 2 oils from the manufacturer are used. These are Volkswagen's own brand fluids.

The first oil is called VW LongLife III and has a viscosity of 5W30. It is poured into the following motors:

• 1.4-liter petrol TSI with 122 horsepower;
• 1.2-liter TSI petrol engine in two versions with 86 and 105 horsepower;
• TDI engine with a volume of 1.6 liters and a power of 105 horsepower.

The second version of Special Plus lubricant with viscosity parameters 5W40 is poured from the factory into the following power units:

• 1.6-liter naturally aspirated gasoline engine with a power of 105 horsepower;
• 1.2-liter naturally aspirated engine with 75 horsepower.

The list of acceptable manufacturers whose products comply with the standards and requirements for Skoda Rapid engines includes:

• Shell;
• Castrol;
• Kixx;
• Motul;
• Valvoline;
• Mobil;
• Rosneft;
• Lukoil, etc.

The Skoda company gives quite a lot of freedom of choice, since many compounds from different manufacturers are suitable for the engines installed on the Rapid.

But saving on engine lubricant is strongly not recommended, since the characteristics and physical and chemical properties declared by the manufacturer may simply not correspond to reality. This will entail a reduction in the period between changing the working fluid, failure of components and more serious breakdowns of power units.

Tools and materials

To carry out the Skoda Rapid procedure yourself, you must first collect the necessary materials and a small set of tools.

The Czech automaker does not place high demands on the level of skills of people servicing their cars in garage conditions. The design is quite simple and understandable, which allows you to change the oil and other consumables yourself without any problems.

The tools you will need to take are:

Necessary materials and consumables include:

• new oil filter in accordance with the installed engine;
• new oil;
• new drain plug;
• drain plug seal;
• empty container for draining old lubricant;
• rags;
• Personal protective equipment to avoid getting burned by hot oil.

As you complete the work, you may encounter additional tasks, so the list of tools and materials may expand.

Amount of oil to be filled

Before buying oil, you need to decide not only its characteristics, but also the required volume. Considering how many Skoda Rapids there are, you will be able to accurately purchase the right amount of fluid to replace and top up between services.

Additionally, consider the need to flush the engine with oil. Experts do not recommend using special additives for this, since after their use they partially remain in the system, react with the lubricant and can provoke undesirable phenomena.

It is optimal to flush the engine with the same oil that you pour into the engine when changing the working fluid. The only downside is that you will have to spend more money on this procedure, since you need to buy more lubricant.

The filling volume is directly related to the power unit installed on the Rapid:

• 1.2-liter MPI engines require 2.8 liters of lubricant;
• the 1.2-liter TSI variation needs 3.9 liters;
• The 1.4 liter TSI engine needs 3.6 liters. motor oil;
• a regular naturally aspirated 1.4-liter engine requires 3.2 liters of working fluid;
• if there is a 1.6-liter MPI under the hood, prepare at least 3.8 liters of fluid;
• 1.6 TDI is filled with 4.3 liters;
• A modern 1.8-liter TSI engine requires filling 4.6 liters of oil.

Look at the technical specifications of your Skoda Rapid to find out exactly what type of power unit is installed on it. This will make it easier for you to purchase the right quantity. The oil volume in each engine is different, so when operating a Skoda Rapid liftback or station wagon, you need to have an idea of ​​the most significant figures associated with the car.

To change the lubricant in the engine, you will need an inspection hole, the specified set of tools and some materials. There is nothing complicated in the work, but try to strictly follow the established recommendations and adhere to basic safety rules.

Replacement procedure

Changing the working fluid in Skoda Rapid engines is carried out in approximately the same way, since the arrangement of components on each engine is almost identical. This is a universal manual suitable for owners of a Czech car, regardless of the power unit installed on it.

Try to follow the instructions, rely on the official Rapid operation manual. If problems arise, it is better to seek help from specialists.

1. First warm up the engine to operating temperature. This will give the oil the desired fluidity. Stop the engine, open the hood and unscrew the oil filler neck. It is usually located on the left.
2. Go under the car. Some cars have a crankcase guard that needs to be unscrewed. This will provide access to the drain hole. If you do not have protection, you can skip this point.
3. Place an empty container under the pallet where the waste will be drained. If you plan to reuse oils (draining is carried out as part of some kind of repair), then take a clean container.
   
4. Carefully unscrew the cap so that the hot oil does not get on your skin. Leave the oil to drain temporarily, as this will take about 10 - 20 minutes exactly. For now, move on to the oil filter.
5. On Rapids, the filter is installed in the engine compartment in front of the engine itself. To dismantle it, use a special key. Scroll it a little, but do not remove it completely. First, the remaining oil must drain from the filter.
6. Meanwhile, all the oil should have left the crankcase. Go back under the car and get a new plug or seal with you. Reinstall the plug, having first cleaned the seat from dirt. You need to tighten it with a torque wrench, setting the torque to 35 Nm. Sometimes it is not possible to buy just the seal, because it is sold together with the plug. This is an inexpensive part.
7. Return to the filter. Place a rag around it to prevent oil from getting on the engine components and generator. Remove the filter completely. It cannot be restored, so do not try to clean it. Just buy a new filter.
8. Pour some oil from a canister with new lubricant into the filter housing. You need to fill it to about 30% of the volume. The O-ring is also lubricated with oil, after which the filter is installed in its rightful place.
   
9. The filter is tightened by hand. If your hand slips or you cannot grasp the housing comfortably, take a cup wrench and tighten the filter to a torque of about 20 Nm, but not more than 22 Nm.
10. Pour fresh lubricant into the engine through the oil filler neck. Wait 10 minutes for all the liquid to drain. It is not necessary to fill the entire volume at once, since some of the old lubricant still remains in the system, which does not allow adding the entire amount in accordance with the specifications of the motor. Otherwise you will have to drain the excess.
    
11. Bring the level to normal, then close the lid and start the engine. Make sure there are no leaks anywhere. After about 2 - 3 minutes, the oil pressure sensor lamp on the dashboard should go out. When this happens, turn off the engine and wait 3 to 4 minutes. If the level drops, add the missing amount of fluid.
12. If the car has a high mileage and the engine is worn out, then you can flush it. To do this, repeat the oil change procedure 2 - 3 times, but at intervals of 300 - 500 kilometers. It is not necessary to change the filter every time. This can be done during the first and last change of working fluid in the engine.

The procedure for independently changing engine oil on Skoda Rapid cars cannot be called complicated. Each stage is accessible even to beginners who do not have much experience in servicing machines with their own hands.

The main thing here is to adhere to general safety rules, use oil that strictly complies with the manufacturer’s requirements and do not deviate from the instructions. If you do everything according to the recommendations, then the engine will work efficiently, efficiently and will easily survive the period between changing consumables, including oil.

Skoda Rapid is a budget liftback built on the latest generation Skoda Fabia platform. This model is considered the most popular Skoda car in Russia, largely due to its affordable price, sporty handling and quality materials. But like any mechanism, a car needs to be serviced in a timely manner. At first glance, this is problematic to do in the absence of a guarantee. But on the other hand, you can’t do it without self-service. At least, we are talking about basic procedures that every Skoda Rapid owner can perform - for example, pouring new oil into the engine. But it’s much more difficult to choose the right liquid, and this question worries even experienced Rapid owners. In this article we will look at what you need to pay attention to when choosing high-quality engine oil for the Skoda Rapid.

To begin with, let's highlight the main engine range of the Skoda Rapid:

• 1.2 l, 105 l. With. petrol
• 1.4 l, 125 l. With. petrol
• 1.6, 90 l. p.s., diesel
• 1.6, 90-110 l. pp., gasoline

Let's consider suitable motor oils for these engines:

1. Total Quartz 9000 Energy 0W30– synthetic oil with high wear resistance and cleaning properties. This fluid will protect engine components in any weather, regardless of driving style and road quality. The product in question complies with international standards ACEA A3/B4, and also has VW approval 502.00/505.00. This oil is recommended for gasoline engines - both atmospheric and gasoline. The high fluidity of the oil allows it to quickly penetrate even the most difficult places in the engine. Total Quartz 9000 Energy 0W30 is perfectly adapted to low temperatures and is suitable for car use all year round.
2. Total Quartz 9000 5W40 – this lubricant will be a good choice for Skoda Rapid with 1.6 and 1.4 liter petrol engines. The lubricant complies with the VW 502.00 standard and is a synthetic type oil. Due to its high thermal and oxidative stability, the Total Quartz 9000 5W40 product provides its properties over significant mileage, right up to the end of the vehicle's life.
3. Total Quartz INEO Long Life 5W30 – another optimal option for Skoda Rapid. This oil has the highest level of quality, as it complies with ACEA C3 and VW 504.00/507.00 standards. This type of lubricant is designed for a long replacement interval, and thereby ensures ease of use. The stable properties of the oil remain active for tens of thousands of kilometers and prevent the accumulation of deposits and metal shavings inside the engine. The lubricant of the same name contains a minimum amount of ash, phosphorus and sulfur, and thanks to this there will be no problems with the particulate filter in 1.4 and 1.6 diesel engines.

Video

Regular replacement of oil, coolant and lubrication of units and components is a mandatory procedure for any car. Skoda Rapid requires that consumables be of high quality and precisely selected. Otherwise, the service life of its parts will be reduced significantly.

To save money, many drivers prefer to perform this procedure themselves. This option is quite acceptable; it is not necessary to contact specialists. To change the oil, no knowledge or skills are required; it is enough to determine the volume and name of the consumable material that is used for a particular system. Mistakes are unacceptable, as they will lead to rapid wear of parts. As a result, the car will break down at the most inopportune moment.

There is a large list of liquids that are used for these purposes. They have the same purpose, but are used in different cases. When choosing a suitable lubrication option, it is necessary to take into account the vehicle’s mileage, wear of the units, when new oil was added, etc.

Skoda Rapid is a complex device. Its parts differ from each other in design and functional features. Therefore, the volume and names of liquids intended for lubrication are different. Which oils are suitable for which unit can be found in the table.

Refueling tanks for Skoda Rapid

Filling/lubrication point			Filling volume, l	Name of oil/liquid
Fuel tank			55	Unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of at least 95
Engine lubrication system	1.2 (CGPC)		2,8	Engine oil 0W40 A3/B4, 0W30 A3/B4 5W40, 5W40 A3/B4, Shell, Castrol or Motul.
	1.4 naturally aspirated
	1.4 TSI turbo (CAXA)
	1.6 (CFNA)
	1.2 TSI (CBZA, CBZB)
	1.8TSi
Cooling system			5,5	G12+ (magenta)
Manual Transmission			2	Transmission oil
Automatic transmission			7	Dexron®-VI MERCON® LV Automatic Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic brakes			0,9	DOT 4
Windshield washer reservoir		without headlight washer	5,4	Washer fluid with a freezing point not higher than - 40 ° C
		with headlight washer

Volume of oils and fuel liquids Skoda Rapid was last modified: October 2nd, 2018 by Administrator

The Rapid liftback is gaining popularity and is about to take first place in sales among its peers, overtaking the current leader - Octavia. To make the car attractive both in appearance, in terms of filling, and in price, the developers made a win-win move - they borrowed many solutions from other Volkswagen cars: the platform from the Polo Sedan, some components from the Fabia, and the appearance from the Octavia.

We’ll check how this “hybrid” fares with service. Let us remind you that we evaluate maintainability in points, which correspond to the total standard hours (according to the official grid) spent on certain operations.

REPLACING CANDLES AND OIL FILTER: THREE FROM A CASKET

Rapid for the Russian market is available with three petrol engines - naturally aspirated 1.2 and 1.6 and a turbo 1.4. They are well known from other models of the concern. All with a timing chain drive, which requires no maintenance.

The younger engine - a three-cylinder 1.2 - is found mainly in Fabias of the previous generation. The attachment belt is designed to last the entire life of the engine, but typically lasts 100,000–150,000 km. Its automatic tensioner roller is located next to the generator and has a stopper to secure it in the loose position. But using it to more easily replace the belt is extremely inconvenient; it’s better to forget about it altogether. To loosen the tensioner, use a 50mm Torx under the black plastic roller cover. It is easier to change the belt from above, but do not forget to sketch or photograph how it stood. Surprisingly, it can easily be placed incorrectly.

The individual ignition coils are hidden under a decorative plastic cover with four latches. Like most modern gasoline engines from the Volkswagen group, they sit tightly in the spark plug wells. To remove the coils, you need a special puller or a homemade equivalent, otherwise there is a high risk of damaging them. Another inconvenience: the connectors on them are upside down. For an inexperienced person, removing connectors without seeing the type of lock is problematic. And it is impossible to remove the coils along with them from the wells. For candles you need a “16” head. Replacement according to the regulations - every 60,000 km.

The air filter housing is located behind the battery, on the left. The top cover is secured with four self-tapping screws. The element replacement interval is 30,000 km.

The middle brother - the four-cylinder 1.6‑liter engine is well known from the Polo Sedan. Its belt tensioner roller is located more conveniently than that of the 1.2 engine. We loosen it with a key “17” counterclockwise and place any suitable stopper in a special hole when it goes beyond the tide on the block. The easiest way to do this, as well as change the belt itself, is from below.

The spark plug replacement algorithm is the same as on the 1.2 engine. The only difference is in the fastening of the decorative reel cover: two latches on the front and two guides on the back.

The air filter housing is located behind the engine. The top cover is secured with five self-tapping screws. For greater convenience, when replacing the filter, remove the ventilation hose from the valve cover. It is simply put on the fitting.

The 1.4 supercharged engine has the same attachment drive as the 1.6 engine. But replacing the spark plugs turned out to be more difficult. The cover is secured with four 30mm torx screws; access to the coil of the fourth cylinder is very limited. At a minimum, you need to dismantle the ventilation tube running directly above it. Then it all depends on sleight of hand - removing the connector from the coil is hindered by the pipe from the turbine to the throttle assembly. If the connector does not lend itself, it will have to be eliminated by unscrewing two “30” Torx screws on the turbine and squeezing a couple of large latches on the throttle. You need to remove all hoses and lines from the pipe, as well as the air flow sensor connector. When reassembling, it is important to lubricate the rubber sealing ring on the turbine, otherwise it can be torn. The air filter housing is located on the left. The top cover is secured with six 20mm Torx screws.

The engine does not affect the layout of the engine compartment. All engines have the same inconvenient oil filler neck. It has internal thresholds, so the lubricant must be poured very slowly so as not to overflow.

The oil filter for all units is located in front, above the generator. When replacing the filter, place a rag so as not to stain the components located underneath with oil. The 1.2 engine has a cartridge-type filter with a replaceable internal element. We unscrew its plastic body with a 36mm head. Other units have solid filters. For them we use pullers or improvised tools.

There is no drain plug for antifreeze. The fluid is designed for the entire service life of the motors. In case of forced draining, you will have to remove the lower radiator pipe.

Russian buyers are offered three transmissions to choose from: a five-speed manual, a six-speed automatic and a seven-speed DSG robot. Oil changes are regulated only for automatic transmissions - every 60,000 km. In other units it is filled in for the entire service life. But no one is immune from repairs that involve draining the oil.

The manual transmission is compatible with 1.2 and 1.6 engines. The engineers still took care of the ease of changing the oil: there are the usual filler and drain plugs. The filler hole also doubles as a control hole. The normal oil level is along its edge.

The hydromechanical automatic is only available for the 1.6 engine. It is installed on many models of the concern, and is most common on the Polo Sedan. The drain hole is both a control hole and a filler hole. A measuring tube for a “5” hexagon is screwed into it. The height of the tube corresponds to the normal oil level in a box heated to 35–40 degrees and a running engine. To drain the lubricant, completely unscrew the tube, then replace it and fill in the oil.

The service uses special containers and hoses for this, but you can get by with a regular syringe for boxes. You just need to make a tip for the hose under the hole with the tube. To be fair, I note that this inconvenient scheme is also used by other manufacturers.

The DSG box is only paired with the 1.4 turbo engine. Changing the oil in it is much easier than in a hydromechanical automatic: there is a regular drain plug at the bottom, and oil is poured in (in a volume of 1.9 liters) through the breather at the top.

To replace any technical fluids, you must remove the plastic crankcase protection, which does not have technological holes. It is secured with nine 25mm torx screws. Do not overtighten them, otherwise you will break the threads in the embedded elements.

REPLACING BATTERIES, FILTERS AND BRAKE FLUID: EVERYTHING EXCEPT

Replacing the battery is not difficult. The power fuse plate is secured to the positive terminal and battery housing with two large latches. Unfasten it from the battery and remove it along with the loose terminal. The battery itself is secured at the front with a metal plate with a “13” bolt.

The parking brake adjustment mechanism came from Fabia. Access to it depends on the equipment of the machine. On cars without an armrest, it is enough to remove the rectangular niche behind the lever. And if you have an armrest, you will have to suffer - it has hard-to-reach fastenings. Even after removing the armrest, you will have to partially dismantle and lift the center console a little and manage to get to the adjustment mechanism. There is no need to go there unless absolutely necessary.

The cabin filter is located in the front passenger's feet, on the left (as in Fabia and Polo Sedan). Replacement interval - 15,000 km.

The remote fuel filter is located to the right of the tank. Replacement interval - every 60,000 km. When removing it, servicemen do not relieve pressure in the fuel system. This does not affect the amount of gasoline spilled in any way. The filter has an installation direction arrow, but even without this it is impossible to install it incorrectly. It is secured to the body with a plastic clamp.

The design of the brake system depends on the motor. Cars with a 1.4 engine have all disc brakes. The front caliper is secured by two guides for a 7-point hexagon, and the pads do not have anti-creaking springs in the guides of the bracket. The rear caliper is tightened with two “13” bolts, and to replace the pads you need a “retractor” - the caliper piston can only be pressed in by rotation.

Rapids with a 1.6 engine have the same front brakes and drum brakes at the rear. To replace the rear pads, special tools are no longer needed.

Cars with a 1.2 engine have smaller front brake discs and, accordingly, all the elements are different. The front pads have anti-creaking springs, and the caliper is secured with two “12” bolts. The rear drums are the same as the versions with the 1.6 engine.

Changing brake fluid is easy - the fittings are conveniently located. It needs to be updated every two years.

Access to the lamps in the right headlight is free, but on the left everything again depends on the motor. On cars with 1.2 and 1.4 engines, the battery is moved a little forward, and this eats up some of the free space. Fortunately, the lamps and their sockets have simple fixation. If you really don't have enough room to maneuver, remove the battery. Removing the headlight is not an option - this cannot be done without dismantling the bumper.

We change the halogen lamps in the front foglights from the outside. First we remove the edging, and then the headlights themselves. To gain access to the bulbs in the rear light, it will have to be dismantled, which does not require any special skills.

RESULT

To correctly evaluate the Rapid, we excluded changing the oil in the DSG - after all, this is the second type of automatic transmission available for the car. In addition, the operation is less labor-intensive than in the case of its hydromechanical counterpart. Thus, Rapid scored 10.1 points. The most obvious shortcomings: the convoluted process of removing the ignition coils on all engines and the labor-intensive oil change in a six-speed automatic. But even with such shortcomings, the Skoda Rapid is one of the best people's cars in terms of do-it-yourself maintenance.

The editors would like to thank “AutoSpetsTsentr na Obruchev” (Moscow), the official dealer of Skoda, for their assistance in preparing the material.