The Priora does not start, the starter turns. The starter turns, but the Priora does not start? Is this a familiar problem? We know how to solve

Lada Priora is a popular Russian car, which, since its appearance, has been actively popularized among car enthusiasts in our country.

It is also important that the manufacturers carefully worked out all the technical and functional qualities in order to obtain the reliability and durability of the machine.

But, as practice shows, even the highest quality cars can encounter technical breakdowns during use. If we consider the main breakdowns of the Lada Priora, then it is worth noting the lack of ignition, which makes it impossible to start the engine.

Many owners have encountered such breakdowns and malfunctions of their car, so a detailed consideration of the reasons for their occurrence and how to eliminate them is required.

Main reasons and ways to solve them

Lada Priora 16 valves is a car created on the basis of innovative technologies borrowed from foreign concerns, so the technical side provides different functionality. Another important property is that all parts are original, so if necessary, the consumer can easily carry out repair work.

The reasons why a car does not start may differ depending on external influences, namely the lack of starting torque in cold weather, due to technical problems, and so on.

Starter failures and their solutions

If the starter does not turn and the car engine does not start, then the following breakdowns and ways to eliminate them can be identified.

Suspected malfunction	Diagnostic method	Elimination method
No battery charge	The rated voltage at the battery terminals without load must be at least 12V. If the engine does not start, a characteristic clicking and crackling sound is created.	Charging the battery or replacing it completely.
Terminals are oxidized or loosely installed	When starting the engine, the rated voltage drops several times more than at the battery terminal. When the system operates, a characteristic cracking noise is created.	You can clean the contacts and treat them with special means to restore the accuracy of the connection.
Engine wedge	Check the rotation level of the crankshaft and generator system pulley.	Restore the operation of the engine, pump or generator system.
Starter malfunction	Carry out a technical inspection of the starter.	Repair it or replace it with a new one.
Faulty starter circuit	When turning the starting key to position “II”, the starter traction relay does not operate. The voltage supply level is checked.	Replace the starter relay, wires or ignition key depending on the location of the damage.
	When starting with the key in position “II”, the relay does not operate, but the required voltage is supplied. The relay is removed and inspected for damage.	The traction relay is replaced, since in most cases they cannot be repaired.
Oxidation of contacts or incorrect operation of the “mass”	When the starter starts, a characteristic click is created, and the starter armature does not rotate, which leads to jamming of the entire system. The contacts leading to the starter and the ground terminals are checked.	All terminals must be lifted, the contacts must be cleaned of oxidation and, if necessary, the damaged section of the wiring must be replaced.
System break in traction relay	When starting the engine, a characteristic cracking sound is created, and the voltage from the battery is provided at a normal level.	The traction relay is being replaced.
Towing the clutch at idle	When the starter is turned on, the armature rotates, but the flywheel remains stationary.	The clutch or the entire starter is replaced if it is impossible to carry out repairs.

As a rule, a detailed examination of the starter system and related structures provides an opportunity to identify the problem and efficiently eliminate it. Sometimes the malfunction is a combination of several breakdowns, for example, the battery is discharged and the terminals have come loose. Therefore, it is important to pay close attention to all the details.

The starter works, but the engine does not start

If the starter turns for a long time, but the engine does not start, or the car does not start well without gas, then in this case we can talk about the presence of malfunctions on the part of the motor or in the circuit leading to the starter. And sometimes the reasons are more primitive: lack of fuel, battery discharge, broken connections or their deviation from the established places. Careful consideration of the causes of such a malfunction, methods of diagnosis and elimination allows you to achieve the goal in terms of restoring functionality.

Suspected malfunction	Diagnostic method	Elimination method
Lack of fuel in the tank	On the instrument panel, the fuel gauge shows zero marks.	Fill the gas tank.
	Lack of rated voltage without battery load, which creates a characteristic crackling sound.	You just need to charge the battery or, if it is completely faulty, replace it with a new one.
Terminals are oxidized or loosely fastened	Lack of proper voltage and the appearance of an extraneous crackling sound when trying to start the engine.	The terminals and wires are cleaned and treated with technical lubricants to prevent short circuits.
Violation of the phase of the gas distribution element	You need to carefully check the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulley system.	The shafts are installed in the correct position.
Failure in the ignition system	The system is checked for the presence of a spark, from which the engine starts.	The ignition circuits and systems are checked, and the necessary elements in the system are completely replaced.
The fuse overheats and the main relay in the system does not function properly	Check the relay and fuse for damage.	The cause of the fuse blown is eliminated. And if necessary, replace the relay or the fuse itself.
	The pressure in the fuel system is checked for deviations from the norm and the condition of the fuel system.	The filter is cleaned, the fuel pressure is adjusted and the fuel pump is replaced if necessary.
Malfunctioning injectors and circuits	1). It happens that the fuel pump turns and pumps fuel, but the car does not start. Using an ohmmeter, the quality of the injector windings is checked. Circuits are also diagnosed for breaks.	1). Injectors or chain parts are completely replaced.
	2). The fuel pump does not pump.	2). The fuel pump is checked for damage and functionality.

As a rule, owners of a Lada Priora, both cold and hot, most often encounter a break or damage to the system leading from the starter to the engine, so the engine does not seize and does not start. This will eliminate the problem without spreading it in the form of breakdown of additional elements.

Reasons for starting and subsequent engine shutdown

It often happens that the engine starts and then stalls after a few seconds, so it is important to highlight the main causes of such a malfunction:

1. The connections of the electrical coils, which are responsible for quickly starting the engine, become loose or damaged.
2. There is no proper pressure in the fuel system.
3. Leaky connections in the line also cause engine malfunction.

Automotive experts recommend regular vehicle maintenance to avoid future breakdowns. But if it was not possible to prevent the occurrence of malfunctions, then in this case it is recommended to contact highly qualified specialists at a service station who will be able to restore the functionality of the car.

Your technical equipment must be impeccable - after all, the time you have is the same money that, we hope, you also have. Don't lose either one or the other. If a missing tie out of nowhere or a pant leg burnt by an iron can cause a business meeting to be disrupted, what can we say about a car that doesn’t want to start an hour before the scheduled negotiations.

Early in the morning, freshly shaved and full of great plans (child – to school, wife – to the hairdresser, and yourself – to forge a penny), you jump into the car, “key to start” and... What the hell... One more time. More... Nervous manipulations with the key and pedals do not bring success. The day is ruined from the very beginning. Plans and mood are down the drain.

Calm down. There is no need to rush under the hood in an English suit and, smearing the oily dirt with a tie, try to make a diagnosis. You probably won't be able to cure it in 5 minutes. Take another car, and leave the treatment of your sick friend until the evening. And it’s better to entrust it to doctors with a good reputation, especially if you have an expensive car and you are not a specialist. It will be cheaper this way. Well, if your friend is well known to you and you consider yourself a healer, well, try it yourself, if you’re not too lazy to get dirty or there’s no other way out.

The diagnosis must be made calmly

Mentally examine the symptoms. First, does the starter turn? And if so, how cheerful? You already know the answer - remember what happened the first time you tried to start the car. If you don't remember, try again.

If the starter does not turn at all and does not even click the traction relay when the ignition is turned on, then it is either faulty (you can close the hood and follow the advice given above: “Take another car...”), or there is a problem with the battery - it has turned off or died. Only in rare models can the starter power circuit be protected by a fuse - about 300 amperes - it is not difficult to find, especially if you know in advance where it is located. If the battery is to blame, then, as a rule, all electrical equipment does not work. The simplest and easiest case is that one of the terminals has come off or is dirty, but the battery is fine. Tighten the terminals on it and on the starter (if equipped). If it turns out that the battery is completely dead (forgot to turn off the headlights at night), you can still leave. But with outside help. Here, as they say, options are possible. You can try to start from a push, from a hill or from a tow. Don’t try to get around the pitfalls: a car with an automatic transmission or electronic fuel injection (if it has an electric fuel pump) will not be able to start using these methods. I'll have to light a cigarette at my neighbor's. However, for some machines this can lead to damage to the computer (read the instructions for the machine). If the starter turns on, but is sluggish (this happens in the summer, in winter this is a subject for a separate discussion), most likely the battery is almost completely discharged. This will be visible by weak headlights or weak signal. In this case, the above options for outside assistance come into play.

If the starter turns briskly, but the engine does not respond to attempts to start it, feel free to exclude everything related to the battery from further considerations. Blame the ignition or fuel supply system, you can’t go wrong. When diagnosing and treating each of them, a systematic approach is required. It’s better to start with the ignition - problems happen there more often. Especially in wet weather.

From a spark it will ignite...

So, we need to look for a spark. Your car may be equipped with a classic (simple) contact ignition system, a rather complex electronic contactless one, or some combination. In any case, the system consists of three parts. Part one is low-voltage (breaker contacts in a classic system or a special sensor in an electronic one, plus a box with electronic filling that forms a spark). Part two is a step-up transformer, called an ignition coil in the world. Part three is high voltage (mechanical or electronic distributor and wires through which high voltage current is supplied to the spark plugs). And of course, the candles themselves. The inspection of this entire enterprise must be carried out in stages and it is better to start from the end.

Stage one. High voltage part of the system. Check to see if there is a spark on the center wire - this is the one that connects the coil to the distributor. The tip of the wire must be removed from the distributor cap, brought closer to any part that has good contact with the body of the car (it doesn’t matter whether it is painted or not), and secured so that there is a gap of 5–7 mm between the tip and the selected part.

If your car has an electronic ignition, the wire must be fastened especially securely - if it falls on ground, the electronics will instantly die. For the same reason, you should not scratch the wire across the body. We also do not recommend holding it with your hand, not even with your own - it will give you a serious electric shock.

Stage two. Crank the engine with the starter. At the same time, watch what happens at the tip of the wire. There are two options. More favorable - there is a spark. Powerful, accompanied by a loud click. This significantly narrows the field of further searches.

The first step is to remove the distributor cap. It may be damp and dirty underneath. Along such a “conductor” the spark readily jumps anywhere, just not where it needs to be. Wipe, clean and dry. At the same time, it is not harmful to clean the distributor contacts, for example, with fine sandpaper. Inspect the so-called "runner". If you find a dark trace of electrical breakdown on it or on the distributor cap, the part will have to be replaced.

Carefully check the wires going from the distributor to the spark plugs. Wires and their tips must be dry and clean. If, in your opinion, everything is in order with them, you can put the cover back in place, restore the connections and try to start the engine. If the malfunction was hidden under the cover, the engine will start or, in the worst case, at least start sneezing. The symptom is also favorable - you are on the right track. True, you will have to turn out, clean and dry the spark plugs - in an attempt to start the engine, you filled them with gasoline. If the engine does not even sneeze, the spark plugs will still have to be turned out, cleaned and checked. It's easier if you have a spare set.

If you have already reached the stage of turning out the spark plugs, you can quite effectively (and impressively) check the entire ignition system as a whole. Having connected high-voltage wires to the turned-out candles, collect the candles in a bunch, like carrots, and wrap the bare soft wire directly along their threaded part. Make sure the wire makes contact with each spark plug but does not touch the center electrodes. Connect the free end of the wire to ground. Having placed the bunch of candles in a place convenient for observation from the passenger compartment, turn the engine with the starter. In this case, cheerful sparks should jump between the electrodes of the spark plugs in turn (in accordance with the order of operation of the cylinders). If so, then the entire ignition system is fine. The sound of the engine will be very unusual - do not be alarmed, because it is spinning with the spark plugs turned out. Don't twist for too long. It’s worse if at the second stage of testing there is another option: there is no spark between the central wire and the “housing”. This means that the problem is not in high-voltage circuits. Further searches will be more difficult, evaluate your time and desire. If both are available, proceed to the third stage. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition coil. This is easy to do with a tester, and if you don’t have one, you can use an under-hood light bulb. True, you will need a couple of wires to connect it to the coil. In a classic ignition system, you need to connect a light bulb between ground and the input of the primary winding.

At the third stage, as usual, two options are also possible: voltage is either supplied to the coil or not. If it is supplied, the coil is to blame - a breakdown or short circuit, which, however, happens extremely rarely. The coil will have to be changed. More often there is poor contact in the attachment of the wires to the coil. Or the same wet mud, through which the spark flows to an unknown destination. Sometimes the coil is polished to a shine, but underneath there remains an invisible, very narrow strip of dirt - a good conductor.

If at the third stage you are convinced that voltage is not supplied to the coil, the electronics or contacts and unreliable connections in the low-voltage part of the ignition system are to blame. You can’t handle electronics (the switch and, less often, the sensor in the distributor housing) - you need special equipment to diagnose them. You can only tug on the sensor connector on the distributor body - maybe it will help. If you have a car with a classic contact ignition system, you can look further.

Remove the cover from the distributor and inspect the contacts of the breaker - they may oxidize, especially if the car has been standing still for some time. The contacts must be carefully cleaned with fine sandpaper or a special needle file.

Twitch the cleaned contacts so that they either close or open. The voltage on them is only 12 volts, so you can pull without fear. If cleaning does not help and voltage is still not supplied to the coil, we once again advise you to stop trying to resuscitate the car for a while, since further difficulties will begin.

If voltage appears (the light blinks when the contacts are pulled), restore everything that was loosened and disassembled, start the car and, perhaps, it will still have time to go about its business. If it doesn’t start, but is at least sneezing, turn out the spark plugs and... (see above).

Don't press to the floor - it won't help

It may also happen that the entire ignition system has been checked, everything is fine, but the engine, even if you crack it, still won’t start. This means that there are problems with another of the previously mentioned systems - the power supply system, i.e. e. supplying fuel to the engine.

If you have a car with fuel injection (injection supply system), do not touch it (the system). You can only come to the conclusion that it was she who broke: there is a spark, the fuel is suitable - that means it’s her, my dear. Treatment only in a hospital. At home and among artisans, repairing it is useless and even harmful.

In a conventional carburetor engine, the fuel system is simpler - a tank, a fuel pump, a set of pipelines and a carburetor. Here you can dig deeper yourself. The first step is to make sure that gasoline is entering the carburetor. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor and press the manual fuel pump lever. If a fairly powerful stream of gasoline starts flowing, everything is fine, it’s time to move on to the carburetor. It happens that gasoline is supplied to the carburetor regularly, but for some reason it does not flow into it. If you have the time and desire, remove the air filter, then ask someone to press the accelerator pedal sharply. Or you can sharply pull the throttle cable yourself. At the same time, look into the carburetor from above (the air damper is open, otherwise you won’t see anything): if a trickle of gasoline does not appear in the first diffuser, it means that there is no gasoline in the float chamber. It is not there because the valve needle is stuck or (this happens not very often) the fuel filter in the carburetor is completely clogged - it is located in front of the float chamber. Or the jets are clogged. The filter is cleaned by blowing, however, if you do not have the necessary skills, it is better not to mess with the carburetor internals at all, deal with a stuck needle valve, clogged jets and other subtleties - let the specialists do this.

If there is a stream in the diffuser, pay attention to the carburetor starting device - it quite often fails. On foreign cars, starting around the 70s, automatic air damper control is used. The device, without your participation, depending on the engine temperature, closes or opens the damper as needed, enriching the mixture when starting the engine. If this automation works, you can try manual manipulation of the air damper, but there are a lot of options and there are no universal tips. Before starting any manipulations, connect and secure the previously disconnected fuel hose. You don't have to install the air filter yet. If it starts, let the engine warm up and God bless you (after returning the air filter to its place).. If, when checking the fuel supply with a fuel pump, it turns out that gasoline does not come out of the hose or the stream is very thin, the cause must be sought in clogged pipelines, a fine fuel filter or the gas tank itself - you can easily demonstrate your skill by pumping the gas line with a tire pump in the direction opposite to the movement of gasoline, i.e. e. from the carburetor to the tank. Booming, gurgling sounds should be heard in the tank.

With a fine fuel filter everything is simple. Although on almost all modern models it is made in a transparent case, the degree of its contamination cannot be visually determined. A dirty filter will allow the engine to start, but will not allow it to drive normally. If it's completely clogged, you won't be able to start the engine. The most effective check: remove the filter and, if you don’t have a new one, temporarily replace it with a suitable tube, for example, the housing of a ballpoint pen, preferably transparent - you can see how gasoline flows. Do not try to clean the filter - the sealed (or sealed) housing cannot be disassembled.

If you come to the conclusion that your car’s fuel pump is not working and you don’t have a spare one at hand – “Take another car...”.

We left a rare, but most unpleasant diagnosis for last. If the starter is working normally, you have already spent a lot of time and made sure that the ignition and power are in perfect order, but the car, nevertheless, does not start - it is worth inspecting the camshaft drive belt. However, decide for yourself, this check can be carried out at the beginning, especially if the engine has already passed more than 60 thousand. The difficulty is that you will have to remove or at least partially bend the upper part of the plastic casing covering the belt. Perhaps the teeth of the belt were cut off - belts, like people, lose teeth from old age. In this case, the camshaft does not rotate and the engine will not work. It is clear that a toothless belt requires replacement (those who have a car with a chain camshaft drive do not face this problem). The procedure for replacing the belt is not complicated, but it is troublesome. Carried out in a hospital. It’s good if everything is limited to replacing only the belt, and not bent valves or the entire cylinder head - this also happens.

Fewer parasites

It is worth saying a few words about the battery. Since it is maintenance-free on most modern cars, there is no point in providing operating instructions here. We will give just a few additional tips on how to keep your battery viable longer. Don't get carried away with stuffing your car with additional energy consumers. The fact that a certain reserve is provided in the energy balance of the car, allowing two or three “freeloaders” to connect, does not mean that you can hang six horns and ten fog lights on the car - have a sense of proportion. In addition, if you connect unintended connections yourself, there is a high probability of damage to the insulation. And in general, as practice shows, any, even the most qualified, surgical intervention in the electrical wiring of a car sooner or later makes itself felt. Troubles.

If your battery is dying, try not to rev the engine during numerous stops in the city. Nothing abuses the battery more than frequent use of the starter.

And lastly (this applies not only to the battery, but to all electrical equipment in general). Remember: all terminals, contacts, wire tips must be dry and clean and fit well to their “destination points”. Dirty, oily insulation breaks through sooner or later, and burning and oxidation of any contact surface can serve as the only (and sufficient) reason for the failure of the ignition system. Or a fire.

We can stop here. Meticulous car enthusiasts have undoubtedly noticed some of the superficiality of our advice. We admit that we deliberately do not want to go deeper into the jungle. Not to provoke you into self-medication - it does not lead to good. Understanding the nature of pain in the lower abdomen on the right does not mean that you yourself should remove your appendix. But you must accurately describe the symptoms of appendicitis to your doctor. Helps the treatment a lot.

20.03.2014

Words "Winter" And "Does not start"always stand nearby, because this time of year is a good test of the technical condition of the car.

This is on the one hand. On the other hand, winter helps some drivers get rid of greed and stop buying gasoline for their car at a ridiculous and low price - as in our case with the Lada Priora car.

In the photo the car is already in the process of being repaired.

First, the car went to our electricians and electronics engineers; for some reason people always think that if the car doesn’t start, then the electronics are primarily to blame. But as it turned out, these deep and complex technical areas had nothing to do with it: our colleagues, after carrying out their checks, measured the compression and waved to us (we work in the same workshop):
- Guys, this is your car, there is no compression!

By the way, it’s very convenient when mechanics, electricians, and electronics engineers work in the same repair bay: if something doesn’t work out for us or if we have any questions, we go to them. If they have questions about the mechanical part, they turn to us.

We started checking. There is no compression in the first and fourth cylinders. And then lunch time came - we had lunch, and then decided to try again to start the engine. And then, lo and behold, the car started right away. With “half a kick”, as they say. We looked at each other and didn’t understand anything yet; the further you go, the more interesting it gets? There was no compression, but the car sat a little warm and it started. And compression appeared like out of a fairy tale.

The partner asked:
-Have you come across this?
I shrugged:
- It’s not clear yet, but there are some thoughts.

We wanted to see the picture inside the cylinders with a videoscope, but it didn’t work out. Conducted other checks. Since we’ve been working with Sergei for a long time (he’s my partner), we didn’t explain much to each other:
- Does it look like gasoline?
- Yes, there seems to be such a problem...

That’s why we decided to remove the “head” and see what and how.

Are you surprised? What does “gasoline” and “remove the head” have to do with it, that is, the cylinder head?

You know, we have come across, and even quite recently, cars in which the problem of winter non-starting in the morning was gasoline: KIA Rio 2011. Fresh, as they say. The only problem is: “it won’t start.” It was the beginning of 2013 and then the frosts were not very severe, but they were enough to prevent the car from starting in the morning.

The client told us wonderful things: our car service was already the fourth in a row. In the first, he was given a starter - and changed. At the second car service they found a fault in the fuel pump and also replaced it. The client didn’t talk about the third one, he just waved his hand.

And what’s most amazing is that after replacing the starter, fuel pump and something else, the car started up so cheerfully, the specialists smiled contentedly and saw the client off, warming the money they received in their hands. And then the car sat on the street overnight, froze until the morning and then the usual: “It won’t start.”

We checked the compression of this Kia - there is no compression. Then they also looked at each other: “Gasoline?”, “Yes, it looks like that...”.

But we tried to make do with little expense: we put the engine on intensive flushing and this helped - the car began to start with half a kick.

Well, here, on this Lada Priora, after an examination, we decided that the disease had gone too far, it needed to be treated surgically - remove the “head” and have a look.

Removed. We looked. We pulled out the valves - we could barely pull them out, because they could barely move in the guides. They actually “torn out” the valves, helping themselves with kind Russian words.

We put everything back together, started the engine - it started as soon as it saw the key. Everything is fine. They took it out into the cold, and the frost got worse that day; in the evening they started it up and the start-up was normal again. The car was given to the client. He rode for several hours, then called: “Heaven and earth! - he said - I hardly press the pedal, it goes by itself!

Well, we didn’t celebrate the victory - there was a reason: when the client came to pick up the car, we told him that “we definitely need to change the gasoline in the tank. Necessarily!". To which the client was very surprised, became agitated and categorically refused to do this. That’s why we didn’t celebrate the victory, we waited and... in the morning we waited: the client called and said in a depressed voice: “The same thing again.”

Of course, this is not our fault at all - we strongly recommended that the client replace the gasoline in the tank, but he refused. It's hard to say why. The euphoria of a machine running again, maybe...

But they hoped for the best: in the morning, when the client brought the car, they measured the compression again. Not happy: there is no compression in any of the cylinders. Complete zero. But we didn’t lose hope yet, we hoped that the problem was not too big, this could happen due to low-quality fuel, water in the tank, plus frost. Hence the ice and wedge on the valves. They put it in a warm place, hoping that if it was water, it would warm up.

But no luck, it didn’t warm up, so I had to start all over again: removing the head, studying the problem, which turned out to be much more serious than it was: all the intake valves were bent, and the third valve soured to such an extent that it got stuck in the guide and had to be torn out along with guide.

These are the parts of the valve drive mechanism: 1 – valve; 2 – guide sleeve; 3 – retaining ring; 4 – oil deflector cap; 5 – spring support washer; 6 – internal spring; 7 – outer spring; 8 – spring plate; 9 – crackers; 10 – adjusting washer; 11 – pusher.

Valve guides have two functions: to remove heat from the valves and to calibrate the valve seat.

What we got: valve 1 was firmly glued into guide sleeve 2 and would not come out without it. This is what we had to “rip out” - together. The story of completely disassembling and putting the cylinder head in order repeated itself.

Everything new was replaced and installed.

Now it's time to show the cause of the problem: the valve at close range, where deposits are clearly visible. The valve only worked for 3 hours since it is new.

The cause of all troubles and troubles is visible on the valve - deposits. And this is a already washed valve, they cleaned it for an experiment to understand what kind of composition was inside that old gasoline.

They washed it, but they didn’t wash it, if you handle it with your hands, your fingers stick like good glue and then it’s difficult to wash your fingers even with gasoline. When it was warm, this compound on the valves became a little plastic and allowed the valves to move in the guides. And as soon as the temperature dropped lower, the deposits solidified and, better than cosmic superglue, tightly clamped the valve stem into the guide.

What's next? The fuel tank will most likely have to be replaced, because it is unlikely that it will be possible to wash it of that old gasoline. Well, the fuel lines will have to be washed very thoroughly and more than once. Or change?

Our client refueled in the Moscow region. “What kind of gas station is this?” we asked and heard in response that “at that gas station there are very good discounts on gasoline: when you buy a card for regular service, the discount per liter can reach about 60 kopecks.”

Truly: “the miser pays twice.”

Trusov A.M.
© Legion-Avtodata

Trusov Andrey Mikhailovich
Elektrostal (Moscow region), Mira Avenue, 27-a

Auto repair center "Good Hands"

Problems with starting the engine of a Lada Priora car arise in the event of a malfunction of one or more elements of the car’s ignition system. The reason for their appearance is that the spark required to ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders does not occur. There are many reasons for such a malfunction, but they are all conditionally divided into two large classes - the car does not start when the starter is working correctly, or there are problems with the starter.

1 Problems with starting the engine - the main causes of failure

Lada Priora is a budget Russian small-class car, developed by AvtoVAZ. The car was intended to replace the models of the LADA 110 family, and its variations were created on the basis of VAZ-2110 cars. In each modification of the Priora (and today there are a sedan, an extended sedan, a hatchback, a station wagon, a coupe) you can see something from the models VAZ 2109, VAZ 2114, VAZ 2115, VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106 and others. This concerns not only the appearance and structure of the machines, but also problems with their operation.

The LADA Priora car often experiences problems with starting the engine: the injector or carburetor does not work correctly, the starter does not turn well, or even worse, it does not turn at all. The car, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s already hot or cold, creaks, clicks, makes a grinding noise, it doesn’t get a spark, the entire operation of the ignition system has stalled. This is especially true in cold weather.

There are plenty of reasons for this, but they all have a solution. In most cases, the preliminary diagnosis of a breakdown can be performed by the car owner himself, but for some operations certain tools and an electrical tester will be needed.

If the starter turns, but the engine still does not start, the cause of such a breakdown may lie in a decrease in the charge on the battery or its discharge to such values ​​that there is still enough power to operate the starter, but there is no longer enough power to fully start the engine. Checking this is quite simple: listen carefully to the sounds coming from under the hood when the power unit starts. If there is a slight crackling sound, this is evidence that the battery requires charging or replacement.

The second common reason for the engine not starting when the starter is spinning is corrosion, which occurs as a result of moist air or water getting under the hood and damaging the parts that take part in the operation. As a result, their contacts become weaker and voltage is not supplied to the necessary components. To rule out this reason, you should carefully examine:

• starter;
• candles;
• battery terminals;
• all connections in the circuit.

Particular attention should be paidthe presence or absence of condensation under the hood.

If corrosion is detected, it is necessary to replace or clean the oxidized element, and if we are talking about battery terminals, it would not be superfluous to additionally coat them with technical petroleum jelly.

2 Pay attention to electrical wiring

The correct position and connection of wires in the system are also important. Often the wire “comes off”, which causes ignition problems. The fix is ​​simple: you need to connect it back and, in general, check that all connections are correct and that they correspond to the electrical circuit of the car.

The ignition system itself, either as a whole or its individual elements, is also subject to breakdown; it must be checked using a tester. Another common cause of problems with starting the power unit is irregularities in the fuel supply, the culprits of which may be the relay and fuse of the fuel pump. This is diagnosed by the absence of sounds from the pump, and the correct solution is to replace it.

3 Checking the operation of other systems

If the initial check does not reveal any malfunctions, the battery has a sufficient charge, but the Lada Priora still does not start when the starter is spinning, proceed to checking other control systems. In particular, failure can be caused by a faulty ECU or sensors - coolant or crankshaft position. Such problems can only be corrected at a service station.

Among the main causes of ignition problems is a broken timing belt. And a significant cut of its teeth can lead to expensive repairs, so this element must be replaced immediately after a malfunction is detected. The car does not start due to problems with the crankshaft, individual parts of the cylinder-piston group, generator, and coolant pump.

And if such a situation arose in severe frost conditions, it is possible that the engine oil in the car simply froze. To continue operating the machine, it is necessary to completely change the oil to the one recommended by the manufacturer, which will definitely work in the given climatic conditions.

Often the problem is caused by a dirty fuel filter or damaged fuel line. In this case, you should thoroughly clean the filter, and if this is not enough, replace it or other elements of the unit through which gasoline will be supplied to the engine. The culprit of the breakdown may also be a blown fuse or relay of the control system or idle speed regulator. If installing a new fuse is usually not difficult for the car owner, then sensors that control idle speed and other more complex components are usually replaced by service station technicians.

4 If the starter does not turn

This is a separate class of breakdowns that can occur when:

• complete absence of voltage supplied to the starter - the battery is completely discharged or its terminals are seriously dirty;
• wedge of the engine or attachments;
• malfunction of the starter itself (its drive gear or flywheel ring teeth are damaged, there is a break or short circuit in its armature winding, a breakdown of the traction relay).

Another cause is often a slipping freewheel.

Moreover, it is necessary to contact a service station if an independent check does not help to identify the root cause of the malfunction - the auto repair shop will conduct a thorough and complete diagnosis of not only the ignition system, but also all other components of the car.

The starter turns, but the Priora does not start? Is this a familiar problem? We know how to solve

Ladies and gentlemen, have you had the following problem? Many fans of the domestic automobile industry have encountered a similar phenomenon more than once. In particular, this can be said about the happy owners of the Lada Priora.

Actually it's quite common problem, which needs to be solved very quickly. If the first signs of a malfunction appear, then it is unknown how the car will behave the next time the engine is started.

The starter turns, but the Priora does not start - this is one of the most pressing issues. A person may begin to panic when such trouble occurs, but in fact there is no need to despair. In some cases, the reasons may be quite insignificant. Knowing what can lead to this kind of problem, you can protect yourself from it or easily eliminate it if it occurs.

Main reasons

So, a man finds himself in an unpleasant situation when the starter of his Priora spins, but the engine does not start. There could be a whole bunch of reasons for this. It’s worth talking about them in more detail.

• • 1. Fuse blown. In this case, you will need to check its integrity. To do this, you can use a special indicator in the form of a screwdriver or a tester. If these tools are not at hand, you will have to wait for help from passing drivers;

• • 2. Oxide terminals on the battery or it is simply discharged. This seemingly typical car malfunction can serve as another reason. , then he will be able to turn the starter, but there will not be enough charge for the engine. It is worth checking the device to rule out this possibility;

• • 3. Defective ignition switch;

• • 4. Corrosion. It can appear on any electrical part of the Priora. First of all, it is worth checking the starter itself, because it is always open to the flow of moist air, and this is the main cause of oxidation;

• • 5. . This can also be checked by calling. For these purposes you will need a tester. If this part is faulty, it must be replaced.

• • 6. Condensation accumulation under the hood of the Priora;

• • 7. Fuel system problems. This is very common in this kind of trouble. There are a whole bunch of devices that are responsible for the smooth operation of the system. It is not always possible to fix the problem yourself, so it is better to turn to professionals;

• • 8. . And this problem can arise for every car enthusiast. In this case, it is imperative to use a candle holder and then check their performance. Sometimes just wiping them is enough, but sometimes they may need to be replaced. It is better to carry them in the trunk for this occasion;

• 9. Engine overheating. This is another nuisance that can lead to the car's operation being suspended. There could be many reasons for this. For example, it may simply happen. There are many tubes coming out of it, so each of them may be faulty. , which is responsible for starting the engine, can also make it impossible to start it.

  There's only one piece of advice here— immediate replacement of the unit. There is so-called internal overheating, which is much worse than external overheating. While all sensors will definitely report the second option, the second option is practically indeterminable. You need to immediately contact the service for help.