Driving to the site after a week of snowfall... Anyone who has experienced this will understand what I mean. Finding myself in such a situation, I found an unexpected way out.
There was an old one standing on my site, made from what I had, and there were several metal corners and sheets of 12 mm plywood. And after some calculations and measurements, the first version of the snow plow was born (photo 1).
Its design is extremely simple, the main thing in it is the wedge-shaped shape and weight. The wedge is needed so that the car does not drift from side to side on a narrow road, and the weight is needed so that it does not block additional fasteners and structures. The principle of operation is simple: you attach it to the car and off you go, installation on the car takes no more than 5 minutes.
Ideally, such a scraper requires an SUV with a frame, but for an ordinary passenger car, I think, this design can be used, the main thing is to find where it is safe to mount it. I attached it to two eyelets for towing (photo 2), but I also considered attaching it to the engine protection as an option, especially since most cars have it.
At the top under the hood there is a chain that is attached to the hood latch. This lifting mechanism for the structure is activated when turning or if you need to drive back. Of course, the system can be supplemented, but technically it is more difficult; True, you will be able to control the snow plow directly from the inside of the car.
During operation, the design was modified several times (lowered for greater stability). I also additionally installed vertical posts with spacers to increase rigidity.
However, after several clearings, piles of snow appear along the edges of the road, interfering with cleaning. The design had to be supplemented with “ears” made from the remains of the laminate, attaching them at a slight angle. The cleaning efficiency immediately increased, the road can be cleaned much wider and cleaner.
Probably many will think: why is all this? The answer is simple. Having spent about 2 hours making the structure, now I spend 30 minutes clearing a completely snow-covered road (which is about 800 m). Everyone chooses for themselves - regularly pay for the services of a tractor driver to clear the road, shelling out 3-4 thousand rubles, or buy a snow plow made at the factory for 80-100 thousand rubles. or, having spent about 5-6 thousand rubles, enjoy the work done!
Also, continuing the topic, we read how to equip your car with a special attachment
There are situations when the purchase of mounted snow removal equipment for some reason impossible or unprofitable.
Therefore it has to be made on one's own.
Businesses have much more power than ordinary people.
Therefore, the equipment can do more:
- powerful;
- complex.
We will tell you:
- How make it yourself various options for mounted snow removal equipment;
- about everyone pros and cons of using such devices.
The use of homemade mounted snow removal equipment is not only numerous pros, but also extremely serious minuses.
The main advantage such snow blowers is a serious reduction in costs associated with:
- purchase;
- transportation.
After all, most details Can:
- remove from decommissioned equipment;
- You can buy it for pennies at a scrap metal collection point.
Another plus The point is that you can make non-standard equipment that is ideal for certain specific tasks.
The main disadvantage self-production of attachments are problems with the insurance company and the traffic police that arise after driving on public roads.
Indeed, in most cases, employees of these structures perceive the installation of any attachments as making changes to the design .
Therefore, after installing the unit the car must pass inspection, on which they will carefully check:
- correspondence new equipment designs cars;
- state himself car.
Often decisive factor, which leads to a ban on the operation of a municipal vehicle with homemade attachments, is the lack of various documents and certificates for the equipment.
Therefore, before installing homemade attachments, it is necessary probe the soil at the traffic police.
After all, the inspector can not only prohibit, but also suggest the right organization, where all documents will be completed correctly.
Self-production
Find ready-made drawings and the description for making one or another homemade mounted snow blower for a specific machine with your own hands is very difficult. After all, the unit is installed in some special way for each type of vehicle.
And also different mounting methods and location mounting holes.
Therefore, in most cases you have to:
- take drawings and methods for manufacturing a device for one machine and adapt it to another;
- draw up a drawing yourself, using a unit installed on another car as a sample.
In addition, the parts for which the drawing is drawn up are not always available.
Therefore you have to:
- draw up a new drawing;
- do it the old way, making changes as you go.
Should know three main conditions for self-production of good mounted snow removal devices are:
- availability of skilled and experienced masters;
- access to necessary equipment;
- good lawyers who will be able to obtain the necessary documents and legalize the units.
If you decide to make some kind of mounted snow removal equipment yourself, then make sure that all three conditions are met.
Can manufacture required equipment:
- from a not very suitable drawing;
- no drawing at all;
- looking at the finished unit.
But only such specialists, How:
- welders;
- turners;
- locksmiths;
- hydraulics.
Also make sure they have everything you need equipment.
Then talk to:
- traffic police officers;
- lawyers or companies involved in automotive technical expertise and legalization of various changes made to the design of the vehicle.
Perhaps, after counting all the costs, including payments to these companies or lawyers, you will decide that purchase a ready-made unit with all permissions:
- easier;
- cheaper.
Forums that can help
- description of a homemade blade for a small Chinese truck. By slightly increasing the size, it can be adapted to ZIL130, GAZ53 or KAMAZ4326.
- They tell you how to make an auger snow blower for a mini tractor. By increasing the size and installing a hydraulic motor, it can be used with any truck.
- car owner Oka describes making his own blade. By increasing the size and modifying the mount, it can be installed on a larger vehicle, for example, UAZ 469 or GAZ 66.
- describe the experience of manufacturing a blade from a steel pipe for the MTZ tractor.
Information from these forums will help you understand everything complexity of the process self-production of snow removal units.
There you will also find:
- photos;
- sketches;
- blueprints
various homemade products designed to deal with snow.
How to make your own dump
To create your own front plow for snow removal, you will be required:
- steel barrel (200 liters);
- steel corner with a shelf size of 10–15 millimeters;
- steel corner or square measuring 30 millimeters;
- corner or square with a cross section of 50 millimeters;
- 2 any hinges for a breaking frame;
- 3 small double-sided hydraulic cylinders;
- 2-3 any hinges (you can use garage hinges by drilling holes in them and inserting grease fittings);
- fitting;
- hoses;
- control panel and (if necessary) hydraulic pump;
- conveyor belt 20 millimeters thick;
- bolts and nuts of different sizes;
- riveter and rivets.
Put barrel and measure its circumference.
Divide the resulting value by 3, this will be the height of the blade.
Mark the barrel three vertical lines at the same distance.
Cut the barrel into three equal parts.
Then cut off the cover from each element on both sides using pliers fold all the edges at a distance of 3–5 mm to make them safe.
From the corner 10–15 millimeters make amplifiers, in shape corresponding to the trimmings of the barrel. To do this, cut one of the sides of the corner in 1 centimeter increments. Carefully bend the cut corner so that it takes the shape of a barrel. Then weld the cuts.
If the width of one barrel trim is not enough for a dump, then make it from several. In this case adjacent sheets should overlap at a distance of 20–25 cm so that they can be strengthened with amplifiers.
Place the amplifiers like this:
- 2 at the edges;
- the rest are at a distance of 20–25 centimeters from each other.
Connect the amplifiers to the barrel scraps with rivets, the pitch between the rivets is 3–5 centimeters. Cut a piece of conveyor belt 5 centimeters wide and use bolts to attach it to the bottom of the blade.
Don't use rivets, because they will not be able to hold the tape effectively.
At a distance of 5 centimeters from the bottom of the blade, weld a 50 mm square or corner along the entire structure and cut off another similar corner. This will be a rotary joint that changes the angle of the blade.
Install hinges between them.
If you use door hinges with grease fittings, then place them so that they need to be pulled in different directions to separate.
Weld the same corner or square on top.
Then weld an extension to it - a piece of the same corner 30–40 centimeters long, installed perpendicularly.
Weld braces that will strengthen the extension cord. Then install a hydraulic cylinder between the lower and upper (located after the hinges) corner. He will adjust the tilt of the device.
Do lifting and turning system devices in different directions using:
- swivel joints;
- corners of different sizes;
- hydraulic cylinders.
Attach the entire structure to the car frame. Do not attach the blade to the bumper, a strong load will tear it off and damage your creation.
Connect to hydraulic cylinders:
- fittings;
- hoses.
Then route the hoses into the cabin and install the control panel there.
His can be removed from any decommissioned equipment equipped with various hydraulic devices.
Connect the hydraulics to the truck's hydraulic pump or connect a separate hydraulic pump to the PTO.
It is not advisable to connect the hydraulic pump directly to the engine. using belt or chain drive. In this case, you will not be able to disable it if necessary.
Make sure that:
- all homemade construction assembled correctly;
- nothing anywhere not mixed up And doesn't dangle.
Check the condition of the entire hydraulic system, first when switched off, then when:
- wound up motor;
- connected hydraulic pump.
If there are no leaks anywhere, check the operation of the control panel.
After making sure that everything is working correctly, test the snow removal unit in real conditions by clearing some area of snow.
Conclusion
The use of homemade mounted snow removal devices where there are no conflicts with:
- traffic police officers;
- insurance companies,
seriously reduces costs to fight the snow.
After all, the cost of these devices, assembled from what was removed from decommissioned equipment or found at metal collection points, is tens of times lower than that of units sold in stores.
Yes, and high-quality homemade attachments are in no way inferior to those you can buy in a store By:
- productivity;
- reliability.
In this video you can see how a Niva works with a snow blade:
In contact with
The question of how to make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands arises before almost all owners of land plots with the onset of winter. Specialized and online stores offer many devices for snow removal. However, not everyone has the opportunity to buy a walk-behind tractor with a factory-made blade. A good, high-quality factory-made snow plow has an impressive price. You can save on an expensive purchase if you show creativity and make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. For such work there is no need to purchase special equipment. You can make a homemade blade for a walk-behind tractor from what you have on hand.
Tools and materials
You can install a snow blade on the frame of any motorized cultivator that has a power of more than 4 hp. and weight not less than 50 kg. The heavier the unit, the better it will cope with the consequences of a snow storm. It is best to equip the domestic Neva walk-behind tractor with a shovel. This equipment has high performance characteristics and is adapted to work in the most severe weather conditions with maximum load.
A shovel for a walk-behind tractor is made with your own hands using the following devices:
- roulette;
- welding machine;
- grinder with discs for cutting and grinding metal;
- electric drill;
- set of wrenches;
- screwdriver;
- paint, paint brush.
After preparing the tool for work, it is necessary to decide on the material from which the shovel blade for the Neva walk-behind tractor will be made. You can make a shovel from various metal products that have a sufficient margin of safety.
The blade for the Neva walk-behind tractor can be assembled from the following materials:
Snowy winter is a problem in most regions of Russia. If in cities this problem concerns municipal and road organizations equipped with special equipment, then in private houses the owners are left alone with the snow. Why not use a popular assistant among property owners, usually used only in the summer? In this sense, walk-behind tractors are universal; the main thing is to know how to make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands.
Purchase or manual assembly?
Snow plows in stores are quite expensive, in addition, there are special designs that use a walk-behind tractor drive for effective snow removal. If you do not have the necessary metalworking skills, it is safer to purchase a factory-made snow removal attachment.
However, if you have a welding machine, drill, material and free time, you can seriously save on purchasing this attachment. In addition, a do-it-yourself walk-behind tractor blade can be modified and repaired at any time, and the reliability of such products is often higher.
Experience of professionals
There is no need to reinvent the wheel; an approximate design for manufacturing equipment for snow removal can be borrowed from manufacturers, for example, use a drawing of a blade for a walk-behind tractor at the Vsevolozhsk RMZ. Of course, the design can be simplified or strengthened, depending on the model of the walk-behind tractor; most importantly, do not count on a large working width of the shovel blade with a weak or too light unit.
Design
The main parts of the structure are:
- A blade shovel or knife is a working part that interacts with snow. Can be made from various materials. A metal plate with a thickness of 3 mm or more is suitable. Remember that the lower part can cling to the road surface and must be additionally reinforced with a strip of metal on the working side and stiffening ribs on the reverse.
- Rotary mechanism. It is often much more convenient to use a blade turned at 30º, so as not to push the entire snow mass in front of you, but to throw it away from the direction of movement. This reduces the load on the walk-behind tractor and allows you to move the snow in the right direction. The blade rotation and locking mechanism will require a plate at least 10mm thick, a strong pivot bolt at the main attachment point and a pin connection to secure the straight or oblique position of the blade.
- The connection point and attachment to the walk-behind tractor can be different for each model. To make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, you should not pay attention to the versatility of the attachment; it is better to take care of the reliability of fixing the blade on your walk-behind tractor.
Tools
Without special tools, metal processing can become quite difficult. The following tools and equipment should be prepared in the craftsman’s workshop:
- Welding machine. Handicraftsmen often use small transformer or inverter devices that allow them to carry out work mobile. Remember safety precautions when working with welding.
- Angle grinder, popularly called an angle grinder. Remember to protect flammable materials from sparks, which can fly up to fifteen meters during operation.
- A drill or hammer drill with a set of metal drills of different diameters. Holes for bolt and pin connections will be required.
- Clips and clamps can be useful when working without an assistant.
Materials
To make a blade for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, the master has no restrictions on the selection of material; the list below shows only recommended parts, as well as possible replacements:
- A metal plate with a thickness of at least 3 mm for the manufacture of the working part of the blade. The dimensions depend on the planned parameters of the attachment, which, in turn, directly depend on the power of the walk-behind tractor. An old 200-liter metal barrel can serve as an excellent material, for which you need to cut it into 3 parts lengthwise and weld two of them along the perimeter for rigidity. When cutting the barrel lengthwise, take precautions so that the sheet of metal does not unexpectedly jump to the side. The third part can be cut for other parts of the blade.
- Metal stiffeners can be made from a variety of materials, for example, from the remains of a 3 mm plate or angles and reinforcement.
- The metal plate of the rotating mechanism must be at least 8 mm thick, since it is the most vulnerable point.
- A square pipe 40 x 40 mm will be needed to make the clutch assembly, which can be made adjustable using holes and bolts.
- Wide dumps may require additional reinforcement from a pipe or angle.
- Bolts and nuts with washers for fastening various components and parts. Pins for the adjustable part of the rotating mechanism.
You can make a blade for a walk-behind tractor from a gas cylinder, but remember the safety precautions when working with gas. The container must first be completely filled with water to eliminate any possibility of fire or explosion.
Making a dump
The figure shows a schematic diagram of a snow plow, based on the factory drawings at the beginning of the article. The design is simplified and assembly is suitable for medium and light walk-behind tractors. Ultra-light machines and motor cultivators do not have sufficient power for effective snow removal work. The dimensions of the blade depend on the wheelbase of the walk-behind tractor, its power and the size of materials available. When making a blade more than 1 m wide, be sure to provide structural reinforcement.
What to do if the snow is compacted and there is a lot of it, so much so that even a Niva cannot pass? Well, or do you need to lead a squad of underpowered cars along an unclean road? The snow needs to be cleared. It would be ideal to build a snow blower driven by a crankshaft pulley, but this is a rather complex design, and to begin with, a simple snow blade.
I decided to take a 4-mm aluminum sheet as a basis, because it needed to be able to be operated on by one medium-sized male. In the sense of installing it on the Niva - removing it from the Niva. The sheet was bent with approximately the same radius as on ZIL snowplows, thick rubber bands were screwed at the bottom with a corner, and the sheet itself was reinforced with a bent corner along the radius. The design of the fastener is also made of corner braces, providing the necessary tilt of the blade and angle relative to the axis of the vehicle. This structure is bolted to the towing eyes. The top mount is a special bracket screwed to the bumper. It has holes for the upper head of the shock absorber, which is responsible for the height position of the blade. When hitting a bump, the shock absorber compresses and allows the blade to rise. When the snow moves, the stiffness of the shock absorber is sufficient to fix the blade in the lower position. The shock absorber bracket has 3 pairs of holes for adjusting the lower position of the blade.
To be honest, I was not sure that 4 mm aluminum could withstand the loads of moving snow. However, the testing of the blade happened to coincide with a thaw, and the snow was wet and heavy, and the blade coped with it perfectly.
I present to your attention my design of a snow plow, which I have been using for more than 10 years. The blade blade is made of 40mm angle steel, initially covered with an inch board. The knife is connected to the car through a frame made of a 1" pipe (originally it was smaller) - basically, what it is, with jumpers and braces from the same corner. The mounting eyes are made from old towing eyes from NIVA.
The knife is mounted on the frame with an inclination towards the car, so that the snow being shoveled out increases the clamping force. Initially, a board in the form of a ski was attached to the bottom of the knife, but with it the snow was compacted more strongly and removed less easily, so after a while, when the yard was clean, the problem arose of closing the gate.
The blade is attached to the vehicle's towing eyes using one long F18 steel rod with threaded ends for nuts. To secure the blade in the raised position, use a hook (or two) made from a piece of reinforcement. On one hook - moving backwards, maneuvers, on two - a trip to the garage (~2 km one way along the road). To lift the blade into the transport position, handles were welded, but as practice has shown, it was not entirely successful. Lifting the blade by the upper edge of the knife turned out to be much more convenient.
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During operation, an absolutely necessary condition is the manufacture of new towing eyes for the vehicle! The first year I used the blade, I crushed the front side members with the standard lugs. Reinforcing the eyes with an angle 40 had no effect. Currently, eyes are installed, made from angle 75, 200-220 mm long (the length of the free part of the spar). Spacers are welded into the bumper pipes to prevent them from being deformed by the fastening bolts and from breaking the spar nut.
The main condition for successful work is the absence of “snowdrops” - curbs, frozen bricks, bottles, etc. . (I can’t say how it is with a MONSTER ROAD, but my blade doesn’t want to rise on such obstacles!) When hitting such an obstacle, the frame pipes are deformed (bent), and the number and force of impacts determine the frequency of repair of the blade
I EMPHASIZE: it is the blade, not the car!
By the way, a compacted snowdrift can easily be moved with a blow. I usually move it in ~15 - 20cm sections from one of the edges. At the same time, the blade and the car feel quite satisfactory. Over the entire period of operation, the blade was seriously repaired - 1 time, and on minor issues - 4 times, the car - 1 time! (I dented the side members and tore off the spar locking nut - before making homemade eyes and installing spacers in the bumper pipes). Moreover, 90% of the damage occurred due to impacts with curbs when clearing the path from the house to the roadway.
I am currently considering installing a fuse in the frame in the form of a plate with a loop and a key, so that in the event of a strong impact the key will break and not bend the frame pipes.
Of course, it’s better to carry such a structure far with two people, but dragging it 5 - 10 m and attaching it to a car is no problem.
