You will need
- - voltmeter;
- - low-tin solder and zinc chloride;
- - graphite powder, iron filings, nitro varnish, epoxy;
- - silver filings and nitro glue;
- - solution of copper sulfate, cloth, long copper wire;
- - electrically conductive glue
Instructions
Look for damage to the heating filaments using a voltmeter. To do this, connect one contact of the device to the current-carrying busbar, and smoothly drive the other along the idle strip. Another method for finding a broken thread: turn on the heating on foggy glass. In this case, the entire glass will quickly sweat, except for the damaged area. This method is simpler than the previous one, but is not accurate and does not always work.
Regardless of the chosen repair method, first remove the varnish from the damaged area until a metallic sheen appears. It is more convenient to do this with bent wire. Degrease in any way. Having soldering skills, solder the damaged area with soft low-tin solder such as POS-18 or POSS-4-6. Use zinc chloride as a flux. If there is damage over an extended area, solder a thin copper or silver core from a suitable piece of wire.
To restore using another method, coat the damaged area with a mixture of graphite powder and a small amount of epoxy glue (resin). To make the work better, install a strong magnet on the back of the glass, and sprinkle small metal filings in place of the area to be restored. They will restore thread contact. After repair, treat the damaged area with nitro varnish. Remove the magnet after the varnish has completely dried. When applying sawdust, try to get it as accurately as possible onto the strip of conductor, and not onto the entire surface opposite the magnet. This will help make the repair site invisible.
For the third method, take silver filings. Prepare them by grinding off the contact alloy of the unnecessary power relay with a file. Pour sawdust into the fold of a sheet of paper and add a drop of nitro glue. Using the end of a knife, quickly roll the sawdust into a cylinder with a diameter of 1 mm and a length of 2-3 mm. Apply it to the damaged area and crush it, pressing the sawdust firmly. Remove any excess.
Another method is perfect for restoring a damaged area or the entire heating thread. Prepare a solution of copper sulfate consisting of 6 parts water, two parts powdered sulfate and one part battery electrolyte. Mix thoroughly. Take a thick, long copper wire that extends from the positive terminal of the battery to the glass with threads. Wrap a piece of fabric 1-2 cm wide and 10-15 cm long around the end of the wire and secure it in any way.
After connecting the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery, soak the wound cloth in the prepared solution. Begin vigorously rubbing the tear area for 1-2 minutes. In this case, copper will begin to deposit around the undamaged thread. A copper coating will look like patterns on frosted glass. When restoring the entire thread, start from the place where it is connected to the side live parts. This method is cheap, accessible, and has a high durability of the restored area. On the other hand, it is quite long.
To use a more modern restoration method, purchase a special electrically conductive glue. When purchasing, consult the seller. To restore the thread, use the stencil included with the product. Using a soft brush, apply glue through a stencil to the damaged area and dry for 10-15 minutes.
Good afternoon. Today we will talk about how to repair the heated rear window. Traditionally for our site, the article contains a lot of photos and videos and is a step-by-step troubleshooting algorithm.
How does glass heating work?
I think everyone remembers physics from high school. When electric current flows through a conductor, it heats up. It is on this principle that the heated rear window works.
If you look closely at the glass, you will see contacts and power supply wires on the sides.
When voltage is applied to these terminals, an electric current flows through the heating filaments and heats the glass, causing it to .
Accordingly, glass heating does not work in only two cases:
- heating threads are faulty
- no voltage at terminals
How to repair heating if one or more heating threads are faulty?
The error looks like this:
For repairs we will need:
- sandpaper with a number from 1500 to 2500, 1 sheet with any grit. It is needed to remove oxides and varnish from damaged threads.
- alcohol, preferably isopropyl (we will use it to wipe off dust from the glass and degrease damage)
- napkins, microfiber, cotton swabs or rags (for wiping).
- electrically conductive adhesive, it is not always available in stores, so if you are willing to wait, I recommend ordering it directly from China (we will use it to repair damaged threads).
Repair procedure:
We carefully inspect the faulty heating filaments and look for damage; they usually look like this:
We carefully clean the damaged areas with sandpaper, trying not to touch the glass; we clean only the heating filaments themselves, and then next to the damage. If you rub the glass itself with sandpaper, it will become matte, but it will not come out, since heating threads are not applied to it.
We wipe the cleaned surfaces with alcohol using a cotton swab. At the same time, we will remove sandpaper dust and degrease the surface.
Carefully apply electrically conductive glue to the damaged areas. In order to apply the glue directly and not in a spot, it is better to use electrical tape or masking tape. As shown in the video at the end of the article.
Apply electrically conductive glue with a brush.
We wait for the glue to dry, check, make sure that everything works and enjoy the money saved...
What if the heating does not work at all?
If the heating does not work at all, there are two options. Or all the heating threads are faulty (this is unlikely, even on cars that are 30-40 years old, only one or two heating threads heat up)... Or the wiring is faulty.
A person without special education can only check 3 things:
The location of these items can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual.
If, after checking using the replacement method, your heating still does not work, it is better to contact an electrician at a service station. service.
How to repair the heating if the windows are tinted?
I don’t want to upset you, but most likely the answer is no! Since to apply electrically conductive glue, you will have to remove the tint locally (locally) in any case. I'm not sure if it's possible to cut a piece of tint from just a damaged thread. In any case, you will end up with an unsightly hole in the tint...
Therefore, if you need to repair one or more heating filaments on tinted glass, the tint, unfortunately, will have to be removed.
Conclusion.
As you can see, repairing heated glass is not difficult, of course, with due care and desire.
Obviously, the simplest option is not to repair the threads, but to replace the glass, but think about how, because if the buyer sees glass from different years of production, then at least they will tell you that the car was broken.
That's all for me today. I hope that you have no questions about how to repair the heated rear window. If you have any questions, or if you want to add to the article, write comments.
It started getting colder outside and more and more often in the morning the first thing I have to do is press the heated rear window button. But HORROR, you turn on the heating and find that not all the threads are heating. What to do? Replacing glass is not a cheap pleasure; the only option is to do the repairs yourself. Commonly recommended repair methods
According to those who tried, the heating threads of the rear window leave much to be desired - the ineffectiveness of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of branded mixtures.
And then, on the Internet, I came across an interesting repair technology; reviews from those who tried it were more than enthusiastic:
Description of technology.
The reagents needed are copper sulfate - better known as copper sulfate (used in crop production and construction), and sulfuric acid - an electrolyte from a battery is quite suitable. From the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass.
Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bundle, a tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long are quite suitable. A strip of fabric half its width should be wound around the end of the rod - you should get something like a tassel. You need to put a thread bandage on top to prevent the fabric from unwinding.
Electrolyte preparation - not to be confused with acca electrolyte - is also not difficult. Add a couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate to half a glass of water and stir until dissolved. If it doesn’t dissolve completely, don’t worry, don’t pay attention. To the resulting solution you need to add 0.2-0.3% concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% battery electrolyte - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte per half glass.
Well, the actual process. Both terminals of the glass are connected to ground (if the glass is installed in a car and at least one heating thread is intact, nothing needs to be done), and the positive of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag.
We wet the positive electrode in the solution and begin to actively and continuously rub the area where the thread breaks for 3-5 minutes. A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. If the thread is slightly damaged, the gap is completely covered with copper; for large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be tinned with a non-overheated soldering iron and a jumper made of thin wire should be soldered.
There is no need to limit the current, because after a few seconds the anode is passivated and limits the flow
current. We should not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid - such a concentration is not dangerous for the skin, but
Holes appear on the clothes after a week or two (Therefore, I do not recommend carrying out the process without removing the glass, although this is quite possible.
- A couple more ways......
1st method:
– on fogged glass, turn on the heating and at the place of the break the glass quickly fogs up with a spot, while the entire thread with the break does not fog up.
2nd method:
– to detect a break in the rear window defogger conductor, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window defroster.
– connect one voltmeter probe to the ground of the car, and wrap the second probe in foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
– connect the voltmeter probe to the center of each conductor of the rear window defroster. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of about 5 V, then the heater conductor is working. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break in the heater conductor.
– to locate the break point in the heater conductor, connect one voltmeter probe to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the heater conductor from the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter drops from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.
3rd method:
- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better yet mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second probe to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and move it along the threads of the heater, monitor the readings of the kilometer, the megohmmeter at the point of break, the needle will twitch.
– it is better to use an analog ohmmeter (with an arrow).
– works if there is a break in one place...
Direct thread repair:
In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (preferably with a bent steel wire or paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease it.
1st method (conductive paste):
– You can restore a broken rear window heater conductor using conductive paste.
– before starting repairs, turn off the rear window heating and allow time for the glass to cool.
– Using caution, strip the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
– use adhesive tape to mark the area to be repaired.
– Apply conductive paste approximately 20mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
– After drying the electrically conductive paste for 24 hours, you can use the rear window defroster.
You can dry it at a high temperature, then you can use heating earlier.
2nd method (electrolytic coating):
– from the reagents you need copper sulfate – better known as copper sulfate (used in crop production and
construction), and sulfuric acid - the electrolyte from the battery is quite suitable.
- from a tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass. Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bundle are quite suitable) tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long.
– wrap a strip of fabric half its width around the end of the rod – you should get something like a tassel.
You need to put a thread bandage on top to prevent the fabric from unwinding.
– preparing the electrolyte – not to be confused with the battery electrolyte – is also not difficult. Pour a couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate into half a glass of water and stir until dissolved; if it doesn’t dissolve completely, don’t worry, don’t pay attention.
To the resulting solution you need to add 0.2-0.3% concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% battery electrolyte - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for this half glass.
– the process itself.
Both terminals of the glass are connected to ground (if the glass is installed in a car and at least one heating thread is intact, nothing needs to be done), and the positive of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag. We wet the positive electrode in the solution and begin to actively and continuously rub the area where the thread broke for 3-5 minutes.
A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. In case of slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely covered with copper; in case of large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be tinned with a non-overheated soldering iron and a jumper made of thin wire should be soldered.
There is no need to limit the current, because After a few seconds, the anode becomes passivated and limits the flow of current. Don't forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!
3rd method (paint with chips):
– take a copper-brass block (graphite will also do) and start making shavings with a small file.
– paint (can be red, to match the color of the threads) is mixed with shavings, the proportion is approximately 50/50. You should get a dough-like mixture.
– the heating is turned on and paint is applied to the thread, having first made a stencil from electrical tape or adhesive tape. IN
During the process of applying paint, a hissing sound appeared from the point of contact, then it disappeared, but the thread warmed up.
- done. Literally after a minute the composition hardens.
4th method (magnet and glue):
– prepare very fine iron filings, a small magnet (from the speaker) and transparent glue (such as BF-2) or nitro varnish.
– apply a magnet from the outside above the break point, then sprinkle sawdust on the side of the conductor, gently moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break point (this will be noticeable by heating the strip - unless of course the break is in one place, otherwise more magnets will be needed).
– apply a drop of glue to the sawdust with a small squirrel brush and let the glue (varnish) dry.
– then remove the magnet and use a blade to remove excess sawdust. You can reapply another layer of glue (varnish).
- enough for several years.
5th method (special adhesives):
– special adhesives for restoring heating filaments, some made in Russia
– reviews are contradictory, some like it, some don’t
– instructions for use are included with the glue
– It is recommended to add a little iodine to the glue. In this case, the glue turns out red and matches the color of the other threads
6th method (soldering):
– damaged areas can be soldered with soft low-tin solder POS-18 or POSS-4-6, using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged, it is better to solder a thin copper or silver core from the wire.
7th method (sawdust and glue):
– silver filings (for example, an alloy ground off with a file from the contact of an unusable power relay) should be poured into the fold of a piece of paper, and a drop of nitro glue should be added there. Quickly roll a cylinder 2…3 mm long and 1 mm in diameter with the tip of a knife and apply it to the damaged area. Then crush it to tightly compress the sawdust and remove excess.
To implement this idea, I used the 2nd method - electrolytic coating.
Here was the gap:
it was visible to the naked eye, but just in case, I rang this place with a tester... Then I made a device with which copper ions will be applied:
it is done very simply... I took 3 copper wires from a 2.5mm copper wire, soldered them together, put a heat shrink tube on them, stripped the copper, wrapped a rag about 3 cm wide, secured it all with zip ties....
on the other hand, I soldered a plug-in contact so that this device could be connected instead of heating. Next, copper sulfate began to play, fortunately there were old supplies, and I took a little acid from the battery with a syringe... (Copper sulfate can be bought at a store that sells fertilizers). The result was this liquid:
Then everything is according to the instructions.... I lowered the electrode into the glass, disconnected the positive wire from the glass heating, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - thus “+” appeared on the electrode...
There is a “-” sign on the heating strips. I just moved over the place where there was a gap and saw how a coating of copper was forming... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches... To be on the safe side, I also soldered this place, fortunately after such a copper plating procedure everything is soldered with a bang!
In the end, everything worked out and everything works!
Car windows should not only perform protective functions, but also ensure driving safety. To maintain a view of the road, various additional devices are installed on the glass. For example, a special heating system is installed on the rear window, which prevents it from freezing and helps to quickly clear it of snow and ice in the cold season, as well as from fogging.
First, let's figure out what a car's rear window heating system is. This is a special mesh made of high resistance material that conducts current. It is applied to the glass from inside the car on the rear window.
Important!At night, the applied mesh slightly changes the view from the rear view window. Metal threads reflect the headlights of cars driving behind, creating glare. This distracts you a little from the road and can cause an accident.
The heating system may differ slightly on different cars, but in principle it is approximately the same for all models. It includes the following key elements:
heating element of the rear window heating system;
Indicator lamp that signals the system is turned on;
System switch;
Ignition switch;
Mounting block.
The system is brought into operation only when the ignition is turned on. To turn on the system, you must press the corresponding button. Power is supplied to it through a special relay. After switching on, another relay is activated - heating, connecting the heating element. As soon as it starts working, the heating indicator light turns on.
The heating element itself can be designed in different ways. But, as a rule, it is made in the form of a mesh of thin nickel threads. They are connected to the conductive busbars, which are located on the sides of the glass. Each of the buses on one side receives a voltage current of 12 V, and on the other is shorted to ground.
The threads themselves are attached to the glass with special glue. Sometimes the glass is first coated with a coating, say, aluminum, and a mesh is attached on top with glue and covered with a translucent film.
What spare parts and tools need to be prepared to install heating?
As can be seen from the diagram of the heating system structure, it is quite simple to equip a homemade rear window heating. For this case you will need:
the rear window itself;
Electric heating threads;
Approximately 5 meters of blue wire and 7 meters of red;
Switch/switch;
Pads;
Relay (4 contacts 30 A);
Heat shrink;
Ring-shaped union contacts for bolt and stud;
Terminals (“mother”, “father”).
To install the system, you will need the following tools: insulating tape; pliers; pliers; screwdriver.
Important! The filaments are quite thin, so they are susceptible to mechanical damage. You must work with them extremely carefully so as not to damage them during the installation stage. Any external influences after installation can also lead to the thread breaking.
Heater installation steps
The question of how to connect the heated rear window is solved in two stages, especially if the work is carried out in the cold season. First you need to collect the blanks. You can even do this at home, and only after that go to the garage and install the assembled system in your car.
Collection of workpieces
This is the shortest stage. First, we take the pads, and if wiring is installed on them, remove them. Having crimped the wires with the “mother” contacts, we folded a new block. After this, you need to fold the relay by crimping the ring connector. We make a wire that will be used to connect the heating to the body.
Installing heating in a car
Now you can begin the actual installation. To do this, remove the dashboard and pads. Be sure to remember their location so that you can install them in the same order later. To prevent a short circuit, you must remove the battery terminals in advance.
Determine where you will have the switch and relay. Connect the power, run the wires to the fuses under the dashboard. Find a 16A fuse and connect the positive wire that comes from the relay to it. The wire from the switch with the “+” sign must be connected to an 8 A fuse. We secure all these wires to a common bundle of wires. Carefully remove the switch from the dashboard and, after connecting the block, insert it back.
The final stage is running the wires to the glass that will be heated. The wire with the “+” sign is laid where it is convenient for the driver. Practice shows that its most convenient location is together with the main wiring bundle.
Now you need to form a “mother” and insulate the wire with tape. After this, you need to connect the negative heating wire to the strut housing and the body. Then you can reinstall the panel, floor mats and connect the battery.
During installation, the question often arises of how to glue the heated rear window terminal. It is ideal to solder it with rosin or acid. But this job requires some skills. If they are not there, then the part can be glued with a special conductive glue. Typically, it consists of silver filings with a hardener and epoxy glue.
Did you know?You can make conductive glue on silver yourself. To do this, mix 1% formalin solution with silver nitrate in equal parts, then add five drops of 5% ammonia to the mixture. The resulting black silver precipitate must be removed using distilled water and a filter. The mixture is dried at a temperature of 105–150°C, where filtered powder is then added.
Before installing the terminal to the foil strip, the strip is sanded and tinned on all sides. Having soldered the terminal to it, coat the other side with glue and press it to the desired place on the glass so that all excess glue comes out. This guarantees good contact. The glue dries within 24 hours. It is not recommended to use a heater at this time.
How to check if the heating is installed correctly
After installing the system, the next question is how to check if the rear window heating is working? To find out how successful all the manipulations described above were, you need to turn on the ignition, then the heating and wait about 5-10 minutes. Then inspect the glass to ensure the system is operating efficiently.
If the installation was not very successful, individual threads may not heat up. In winter, this can be noticeable due to ice that does not melt. In the warm season, you can check the rear window heating filaments with a tester. It can be used to determine the integrity of the thread. If it turns out that there are breaks in it, it must be replaced.
Did you know? Most often, an ohmmeter is used as a tester. But today this unit is becoming a thing of the past, and instead a more universal device is used - a multimeter.
If the system does not work completely, that is, not a single thread heats up, the problems may be as follows:
fuse malfunction;
Switch malfunction;
The tips are poorly connected;
Fault in the wires;
The contact of the glass heating element is not connected.
As you can see, the question of how to heat the rear window is easily resolved. First you need to assemble the entire system, and then connect it in the correct sequence to the rear window. The process is quite simple and every car enthusiast can handle it.
At any time of the year, the driver needs a properly working car. And sometimes some details are considered not so important, but according to the law of meanness, they will be needed in difficult times. One of the troubles that can happen to a driver on the road is damage to the rear window heating system. Both in winter during cold weather and in summer during rainy weather, this function of the car must be performed in full. Otherwise, moisture will enter the cabin, and visibility will be reduced to the limit, as a result, the driver will be forced to repair the rear window heater of the car.
Heating system and functions
The heater operates using electricity. It is known that the windshield is affected by warm air currents; the rear glass requires special heating elements. It's no secret that the inside of the rear window is equipped with metal tracks that have high resistance to electric current. When current flows through the ribbons, heat is released and, accordingly, heating occurs. The result is obvious: clear, dry, heated glass.
The main function of this structural element is to combat icing, humidity and fogging. As soon as the system starts working, after a short period of time the glass is clean and transparent. In addition, this function allows you to avoid drying out the air inside the car.
Damage to the heating system
As a rule, the driver notices damage in this part of the car only when the rear window constantly sweats and does not get rid of ice. After turning on the heater, ideally after a couple of minutes it should be transparent and clean, but if this does not happen, it means that damage has occurred or the functioning is defective. Among the damage to the system, the following should be highlighted:
- Slow defogging of glass. If visibility does not improve after a few minutes of heating operation, then the operation is impaired. The reason may lie in the weak contact of the circuit connector.
- The heater does not work when it is turned on. In this case, after pressing the indicator does not light up. This may be due to a faulty key or a blown fuse.
- Presence of horizontal streaks of fog on the glass. As a rule, such a malfunction can occur due to the breakage of the heating threads that are applied to the glass surface.
Slow defogging of glass
Whatever happens, the main thing is to make the correct repair of the heated rear window yourself or with the help of a specialist.
Troubleshooting and repair
It is believed that it is quite simple to determine damage to the heating system, and every driver can cope with the given task. Before starting work, it is recommended to count the threads applied to the glass, so that later it will be easier to remember which one is damaged. There are times when the gap cannot be seen: it is so small that one of the devices should be used. This could be a voltmeter or multimeter. In any case, in order to repair the rear window heating threads, you need to carefully examine the surface and identify damage.
There are several effective troubleshooting methods:
- Visual diagnostic method - in damaged areas, when the heating is on, the glass does not warm up and remains fogged up.
- Using a voltmeter - with the heater on, one probe should be placed on the “ground” of the machine, and the second, wrapped in foil, should be placed in the center of the thread. It is necessary to monitor the voltage; its value should not exceed 5 V. If the device shows 0 or 12 V, then there is a gap in this place.
- Using an ohmmeter, the device is turned on in “kilo-ohm” mode and connected to the opposite terminals of the heater. You should moisten the cotton wool and run it along the thread. In the place where the arrow will twitch, there is a gap.
Determining whether the rear window heating is faulty
You can repair the heater using a variety of methods, for example, purchase a special kit for repairing the rear window heating filaments.
You can repair the system using a repair kit, conductive paste and traditional methods. The main difference between all options is the materials that are used during work.
Repair materials
By purchasing a repair kit, the driver has the opportunity to repair a heating filament up to 10 cm. Materials used in such kits:
- template with threads;
- thermally active polymer resin in a cylinder.
Materials for repairing heated rear window
Work is carried out strictly with the heating system turned off. Having determined the location of the damage, it is necessary to remove the protective film from the template and attach it to the location found. The polymer material is applied using a brush and, after drying, repeated several times. After completing the work, the stencil is removed and it is advisable not to turn on the heater for 24 hours.
In the case of using conductive paste, you may only need a hair dryer, which speeds up the drying of the material.
The materials that are used in “folk” methods of repairing a heater are paint (glue) and shavings, metal for soldering the damaged area. As a rule, the paint is selected in accordance with the color of the threads and combined with shavings, maintaining a 1:1 ratio. To work, you will need a stencil on which to apply the mixture (with the device turned on). The advantage of this repair method is that there is no need to wait 24 hours for drying. The driver can immediately drive after completing the work. Zinc chloride is suitable for soldering.
How to restore heat with glue
Quite often, drivers use conductive glue to repair the heated rear window. The material is mixed with shavings, which are extracted with a file or a copper-brass bar. The proportion is 1:1. The result is a soft dough consistency. A stencil is made using electrical tape or adhesive tape, and the prepared mixture is applied to the damaged area. After the procedure, there is no need to wait for the materials to dry and you can immediately hit the road.
Adhesive for repairing heated rear window
What to do with contacts, and other methods
If the contacts in the heating system of this element of the car are damaged, then it is best to use the soldering method. This method is the most reliable and will help you forget about this problem for a long time. Zinc chloride is perfect for the job. It is recommended to use solder with a minimum tin content. After finishing work, the glass should be rinsed well with water to remove any remaining chemicals.
Heat recovery price
Repairing a heater is actually quite simple and inexpensive. Using the “paint + shavings” method, the driver will incur minimal costs by purchasing paint of the desired color (or using existing material) and preparing sawdust. If you purchase a repair kit, it will be much more expensive. The cost also depends on the manufacturer of the conductive adhesive. This can be a well-known and expensive company Keller or a cheaper manufacturer - Loctite. An alternative option would be glue from a Russian company.
