How long does it take to change the timing belt and which one is better on the Lada Granta? Specifics of the timing belt on the Lada Granta How to change the timing belt of the Granta 8 valve

Starting with the VAZ-2108 model, the Volzhsky Automobile Plant switched to using a belt drive for the gas distribution mechanism, and continues to use it on modern models, including the Lada Granta.

This type of drive has a number of advantages over a chain drive, including:

  • no need for lubrication, which makes it possible to move the timing drive to the outside of the engine;
  • quiet operation and simpler replacement process.

But the belt runs much less than the chain. Therefore, the basis for long-term and problem-free operation of the power plant is timely checking the condition of the belt and replacing it.

Replacement frequency

The manufacturer's technical documentation states that the timing belt on the Lada Granta must be replaced every 60 thousand kilometers.

But here it is worth noting that this is a limit value and it is better to replace it before reaching such a mileage, approximately 50 thousand km, but there are cases when the drive requires replacement at 40, or even 30 thousand km, it all depends on the quality of the belt and its working conditions.

In any case, it is better to periodically check the condition of the drive (recommended every 15 thousand km) and if signs of wear are detected, replace it immediately.

If this is not done, then it may break, which is fraught with serious consequences - the engine pistons will collide with open valves, leading to their damage and subsequent expensive repairs.

Design features of the drive of different motors

To understand how maintenance work is performed on the timing drive, let’s first consider its design.

So, the gas distribution mechanism is driven from the crankshaft. In this case, the valve timing in the engine cylinders has 4 cycles and they are performed in two full revolutions of the crankshaft.

But 2 of these cycles occur with the valves closed, so the camshaft must ensure only one closing and opening of the valves during all 4 cycles.

Therefore, for two revolutions of the crankshaft, only one revolution of the camshaft is made. Moreover, this is achieved quite simply - due to the different diameters of the drive toothed pulleys.

The belt has a toothed working surface, which prevents it from slipping on the pulleys. In addition to transmitting force from the crankshaft, the belt performs another function - it drives the cooling system pump.

In this case, the drive must be constantly tensioned to prevent the teeth from jumping on the pulleys, which is why a tension roller is included in its design.

This is the entire drive structure, that is, it includes only two toothed pulleys (crankshaft and camshaft), a pump gear, a tension roller and the belt itself.

All this is located on the side of the engine, not inside. But to prevent the ingress of dirt and technical fluids that could harm the belt, all elements are covered with protective shields.

But this describes the design of a gas distribution mechanism with 8 valves, which is driven by only one camshaft.

But some Lada Granta models are equipped with engines with a 16-valve timing mechanism and two camshafts. But because of this, the drive design does not change much.

Unlike the 8-valve, there is not one, but camshafts and, accordingly, two toothed pulleys, and another roller has been added to the design - a bypass roller, also known as a support roller. That's where all the differences ended.

Checking condition and tension

As already noted, so that a belt break does not lead to serious problems, it is necessary to periodically check its condition and tension.

Checking the condition of the belt is quite simple and you can do it yourself.

To do this, you need to unscrew and remove the protective drive covers, jack up the front right wheel, engage a higher gear and spin the wheel.

The engaged gear will ensure rotation of the crankshaft and timing drive through the gearbox.

When rotating, you must carefully inspect the belt. If any defects or signs of wear are noticed on it - torn teeth, peeling of rubber from threads, cracks, significant abrasions, then the belt must be changed regardless of the mileage.

Additionally, when checking the condition of the drive, its tension should also be assessed.

Although the Grant uses a roller with automatic tension, you cannot rely on the fact that it works normally and it is better to check the tension, especially since it is very simple to do.

The belt must be taken with two fingers in the middle of the area opposite the tension roller, that is, on the span between the shaft pulleys and turned clockwise.

Moreover, if even with significant force it is impossible to twist it at an angle greater than 90 degrees, then the belt is tensioned normally. If it twists at a larger angle, then it is necessary to adjust its tension.

What you need to replace the belt

So, to perform the work you will need the following tools and devices:

  1. A set of open-end and ring wrenches of the most common sizes;
  2. Set of hexagons;
  3. Powerful screwdriver or mounting blade, pry bar;
  4. A special wrench for tightening the tension roller or at least pliers for removing the locking rings;
  5. Marker;
  6. Rags.

Naturally, you will need a new belt of the appropriate size, as well as a new tension pulley, since it must be replaced along with the belt. Having prepared all this, you can start disassembling.

Disassembly

The sequence of work is as follows:

Features of disassembling a 16-valve engine

As for the 16-valve engine, the sequential disassembly is completely identical to that described, with the exception of one point - installing the marks. Since this engine uses two camshafts, the marks must be aligned on both, and do not forget about the marks on the flywheel.

Also, during disassembly, in addition to the tension roller, you will also have to dismantle the bypass roller, since it also needs to be replaced.

After removing the belt, you should also check the play of the bearings on the pump. If it is significant, then it is better to replace it immediately. Otherwise, it may quickly fail after replacing the belt and the need to re-disassemble the drive, since the pump is replaced only after dismantling the drive.

Note that after removing the belt, it is important to ensure that you do not accidentally turn one of the shafts while installing a new one.

Assembly, testing

The drive assembly is performed in the reverse order, but with certain nuances observed. First, we put the tension roller in place and tighten the bolt securing it, but do not tighten it.

In a 16-valve engine, before putting on the belt, we put both rollers in place, but unlike the tensioner, the bypass roller can be tightened immediately.

The belt is worn from bottom to top. That is, first the belt teeth are installed on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then it is put on the pump, then wound by the rollers, and only then put on the camshaft pulley.

After installing the belt, tension it. To do this, a special wrench or pliers are installed in special holes in the outer race of the tension roller, after which it is turned clockwise until the cutout on this race aligns with the rectangular notch on the inner sleeve.

Holding the roller in this position, tighten the bolt securing it.

Having finished tightening, we install the lower protective cover, washer and generator drive pulley in place. After this, we check that the work was completed correctly.

To do this, first check that all the marks match, then turn the crankshaft several turns, after which we align all the marks again. If they converge, the replacement work has been completed correctly and you can continue assembly. Here we note that a slight deviation on any marks is allowed, but not more than a couple of millimeters.

When checking the alignment of the marks on a 16-valve engine, more attention must be paid to this action, since there are two camshafts, and a mismatch of marks on any of them can lead to significant interruptions in the operation of the engine.

Replacing the timing belt of Lada Granta 8 valves is required once every 75 thousand kilometers. If you ignore the scheduled replacement of the belt, tension roller and sometimes the pump (coolant pump), you may end up with serious repairs to the Lada Granta engine. After all, a broken timing belt almost always leads to damage to valves, valve seats and even pistons. Therefore, the timing drive must be treated very carefully. Every 15 thousand it is necessary to inspect the belt for breaks, cracks, peeling or oiling.

The advice applies to VAZ, 11186 and 21116 engines. All of them are 8-valve and are installed in Grant cars. Let's consider replacement steps.

First, remember a simple rule: the 11183 engine cannot bend its valves, so you can rotate the crankshaft and camshaft pulley separately. For motors 11186 and 21116 this would be unacceptable!

Detailed timing drive diagram of Lada Granta

1 - crankshaft toothed pulley 2 - coolant pump gear pulley 3 - tension roller 4 - rear protective cover 5 - camshaft toothed pulley 6 - timing belt A- tide on the rear protective cover IN- mark on the camshaft pulley WITH- mark on the oil pump cover D- mark on the crankshaft pulley. Before carrying out any work, disconnect the battery terminal (key 10), as well as the DPKV sensor. But first you need to remove the protective cover.

To remove protection you need: 11186/21116 – using a “5mm internal hexagon”, unscrew the 4 bolts on the top part, which is then removed. And the lower part is also dismantled; 11183 – use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the 3 fastening bolts. It will not be difficult to cope with what is said above.

The crankshaft position sensor (CPS) is disconnected from the connector (see photo). Then the fastening screw is unscrewed with a “10” wrench. The sensor itself must be removed.

Installation of all shafts according to marks

First check that the gear is in neutral. There is a rubber cover on the crankcase body closer to the clutch assembly. It needs to be removed.

The point is to achieve alignment of the marks on the flywheel and in the scale slot. When this is done, fix the flywheel with a screwdriver.

Of course, it is easier to perform such an operation with two people. Know that the desired position of the shaft corresponds to the alignment of marks A-B and C-D (see figure).

The crankshaft itself must be rotated to the right using a 17 or 19 key (motor 11183). The meaning of this is illustrated in the photo.

The alternator belt needs to be removed The alternator belt blocks access to the timing drive parts. You will have to loosen the fastening and remove this belt.

Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the lower mounting bolt. Then unscrew the upper fastening nut and remove the bolt. The generator casing is pressed against the engine and the structure is secured with wire. The belt can now be removed. Installation of the alternator belt is carried out in the following sequence: 1 . Secure the generator; 2 . Throw the belt over the pulleys, as shown in the photo;

3 . Having engaged 5th gear, roll the car back.

Please be aware that reusing the alternator belt is a last resort. It would be better to buy a new part.

Replacing the timing belt

Make sure the engine flywheel has been correctly installed and secured (see above). Then, using a “17” or “19” wrench (ICE 11183), unscrew the screw holding the generator drive pulley. The pulley itself and the protective washer are then removed.

The pulley should not interfere

Now you need to weaken the downforce in the tension roller: 11186/21116 - using a “15” round key, unscrew the fastening bolt 2-3 turns. The roller will “release” the belt automatically;

Automation will work to weaken

11183 – use a 17mm wrench to loosen the fastening nut. Then the roller itself is rotated clockwise. All that remains is to replace it: a new part is installed in place of the old timing belt, and that’s it. Installation of the remaining parts is carried out in the reverse order.

Basic replacement operation

To increase downforce, the outer roller assembly is rotated counterclockwise. For engines 11186/21116, an additional requirement must be met: the two rectangular marks must coincide.

Mandatory requirement for motors 11186/21116

Upon completion of installation, marks A-B and C-D should also match. The drawing for them is given above.

Tightening torques

To perform installation correctly, you need a wrench with a force regulator. The value on it is set depending on the type of part: Tension roller mounting screw (11186/21116) – 17-27 N*m; Roller fastening nut (11183) – 30–36 N*m; Generator pulley fastening – 105–110 N*m. First, the tension is adjusted on the roller, and then the fastening nut or bolt is tightened. Parts from the VAZ catalog Let's immediately look at the list of VAZ components and special tools: Tensioner roller for internal combustion engine 11183 - 2108-1006120, nut for it - 00001-0021647-21; Timing belt (11183) – 2108-1006040-10; Automatic tension roller – 21116-1006226; Timing belt (11186/21116) – 21116-1006040; Key for automatic roller – 67.7812.9573-01; Key for roller VAZ-11183 – 67.7834.9525. The tension roller of the "2108" family has two slots on one side. These slots should look “up”, that is, away from the engine.

The slots were made for special tools. It is designated by the numbers “67.7834.9525” (see list). And for automatic rollers, the key is designated differently - “67.7812.9573”. What it looks like is shown below.

The automatic roller can also be adjusted

It remains to list how the mounting bolts, washers, and so on are designated: Three bolts for the VAZ-11183 cover - 00001-0009024-11, washers - 00001-0026406-01; Timing drive cover (11183) – 21080-1006146-10; Bolts for VAZ-21116 covers – 2108-1003286-00, spring washers – 00001-0011977-73; Top cover – 21116-1006226-00, bottom cover – 21116-1006218-00. We hope no questions arise here. Imported analogues To replace the “2108-1006040-10” belts, different components are suitable: GATES – 5521 or 5521XS; BOSCH – 1 987 949 095; DAYCO – 94089; CONTITECH – CT527; Finwhale - 2108-1006040. The timing belt “21116-1006040” can be replaced with another part: GATES – 5670XS; CONTITECH – CT1164; QUARTZ (Germany) – QZ-5670XS. Usually the choice is made in favor of GATES products. The letters "XS" in its catalog mean "reinforced."

Attention! Components from GATES (England) are most often counterfeited! From the photo you can understand what the main difference is. Beware of fakes.

Video on replacing the timing belt Grants

The popular VAZ 21116 (11186) engine is also installed on the Lada Granta. This engine doesn’t have enough stars in the sky, but it’s nice because you can easily carry out its maintenance and repairs with your own hands in a garage. He has several problems, however, they can be solved with careful and timely care. Replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve Granta with your own hands will not cause any problems if you change the belt according to technology, not forgetting about choosing a high-quality belt.

There are quite a few tales about what will happen if the timing belt breaks while the engine is running. Unfortunately, regarding the VAZ 21116 engine, most of them are not far from the truth. For this engine, a broken camshaft drive belt is more than critical. The meeting between pistons and valves, as a rule, does not end very well: bent valves, torn connecting rods, punctured cylinder blocks and torn pistons - all this can really happen if the timing belt is not replaced on time.

Bent valves in the block head

For the engine to serve for a long time and reliably, it is simply enough Once every 10-15 thousand mileage, inspect the drive belt camshaft and if alarming symptoms are detected, do not be lazy and change it immediately. Signs that the strap is asking to be retired are clear even to a teapot:

  1. Cracks, cuts, nicks, and other mechanical damage are clearly visible on the surface of the belt.
  2. The teeth may be damaged or even cut off.
  3. The belt has traces of contact with operating fluids - oils, gasoline, antifreeze, brake fluid. But before changing the belt, you need to find and eliminate the cause of fluid leakage.
  4. Delamination of rubber material.
  5. Belt stretch.

Consequently, replacing a belt under normal conditions, when all other units and systems work well and do not cause complaints, is carried out through every 40-50 thousand km, and checking the condition of the belt no less frequently than once every 10-15 thousand km. In this case, the VAZ 21116 engine will cover its service life of 180-200 thousand before overhaul without any problems.

The same applies to engines with an 8-valve head VAZ 11186, which are absolutely identical to the VAZ 21116, but have a cylinder-piston group from Federal Mogul.

Which belt is better to buy for a Grant and for which engine?

The company's belts are installed from the factory on all VAZ engines. Gates. The replacement kit on 8-valve heads has a catalog number K015670XS. We have dwelt in some detail on the topic of choosing the best timing belts for VAZ and VAZ engines, so there is no point in repeating ourselves. There you can also find out how to distinguish a fake from a good quality kit for replacing a timing belt, as well as all the necessary part numbers to search on local sites selling VAZ spare parts.


The Italian-Chinese brand Trialli with article number GD 790 received good reviews from owners

More good belts. Which one fits the 8-valve Granta?

As for our Granta, the difficulty in choosing belts for an eight-valve engine is that an ancient but reliable eight-valve engine was installed on old cars and on cars in the Norma configuration VAZ 11183, analogue of VAZ 21083. This engine is good because the valves in it do not bend if the belt breaks. You need to buy it for it belt with catalog number 2108-1006040-10 , and tension roller 2108-1006120.


New Gates belt

For the other two Grant engines with an 8-valve block preparation (these are engines VAZ 11186 and VAZ 21116) we buy the following replacement parts:

  • camshaft drive belt 21116-1006040 ;
  • tension roller 21116-1006226 ;
  • If you wish, you can buy a special key for the convenience of adjusting the belt tension 67.7812.9573-01 .

Belt from Continental

Of course, for this motor there are analogues from other manufacturers and there are quite a lot of them. Most Popular:

  • GATES – 5670XS, like the original, but in its original box;
  • Trialli GD 790, Italian brand, Chinese assembly;
  • CONTITECH – CT1164, an excellent belt from Continental, if not a fake;
  • QUARTZ with catalog number QZ-5670XS, German belts of good quality;
  • INA 530053610, one of the highest quality and most expensive kits;
  • DAYCO KTB944, a good Italian kit;
  • Set manufactured by BOSCH 1987 948 286.

It is important that the belt corresponds to the geometric parameters - belt length 1305 mm, number of teeth 113, belt width 17 mm.

Changing the timing belt on a Grant with your own hands

When we check the condition of the belt or are going to change it, it is necessary that the engine cools down after the trip. The optimal temperature for replacement is about 20 degrees. According to AvtoVAZ, replacement is critically necessary at the 75th thousand mileage, but, according to drivers, it is necessary to change more often. To replace, we need a standard set of tools and a special key for tightening the roller.

If you have all this, let's get to work.

Timing drive diagram: 1 – crankshaft toothed pulley; 2 – toothed pulley of the coolant pump; 3 – tension roller; 4 – rear protective cover; 5 – camshaft toothed pulley; 6 – toothed belt; A – boss on the rear protective cover; B – mark on the camshaft pulley; C – mark on the oil pump cover; D – mark on the crankshaft pulley.

Use a 5mm hex to unscrew the four screws securing the front upper timing cover.

Remove the cover.

We hang the right front wheel and engage fifth gear in the gearbox. By rotating the wheel clockwise, we turn the engine crankshaft and inspect the timing belt. With normal belt tension...

...cutout 1 of the outer disk of the tension roller must coincide with the rectangular protrusion 2 of its inner sleeve.

The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and separation of fabric from rubber. The reverse side of the belt should not have wear, exposing the cord threads, or signs of burning. There should be no delamination or fraying on the end surfaces of the belt. If defects are found on the belt or there is a significant discrepancy between the belt tension control elements (see photo above), the belt must be replaced. You should also replace the belt with a new one if traces of engine oil are found on it (before installing a new belt, the cause of oil getting on the belt must be eliminated) or when replacing the coolant pump.

Attention! Failure of the timing belt (breakage and cutting of teeth) can lead to valves sticking into the pistons due to mismatch of the rotation angles of the crankshaft and camshaft and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs.

We replace the timing belt in accordance with the maintenance regulations every 75 thousand km or if defects are detected on the belt.

To avoid damaging the crankshaft position sensor, it must be removed.

With the ignition off, release the clamp of the wiring harness block and disconnect the block from the sensor connector.

Use a 10mm socket to unscrew the sensor mounting bolt.

We remove the sensor from the oil pump cover boss hole and put it in a place where there are no steel filings that could subsequently disrupt the operation of the sensor.

Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the engine valve timing - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke.

Using the “17” head, turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the generator drive pulley...

...until mark 1 on the camshaft sprocket aligns with boss 2 on the rear timing cover.

To ensure that the crankshaft is in the correct position, remove the rubber plug for the inspection window at the top of the clutch housing.

Mark 2 on the flywheel should be located opposite the slot 1 of the scale on the upper cover of the clutch housing.

Before removing the generator drive pulley bolt...

...we ask an assistant to secure the crankshaft from turning by inserting a screwdriver through the window in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth.

Using a 17mm socket, unscrew the bolt securing the generator drive pulley...

...remove the pulley...

...and the puck.

Use a 5mm hex to unscrew the three screws securing the front lower timing cover

Remove the cover.

Using a 15mm spanner, loosen the tension roller mounting bolt.

At the same time, the tension roller will rotate and the belt tension will weaken. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.

Remove the belt from the engine compartment.

Attention! After removing the timing belt, do not rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to avoid the pistons sticking into the valves.

Marking of the timing belt (width 17 mm, number of teeth 113).

The production of a domestic modification of the Lada Granta has been carried out for several years. The car has gained significant credibility due to its acceptable quality and level of performance, as well as the presence of several different configuration versions.

Today we’ll figure out when to change the timing belt, as well as which timing belt is better.

Some general provisions about the belt

The timing belt in any engine serves to ensure timely intake of the prepared mixture and release of exhaust gases. The composition of this node implies the presence of the following elements:

  • camshaft and crankshaft;
  • the valves themselves with seals, springs, guide bushings and other parts.

Which timing belt is better? The belt mechanism is positioned separately in this mechanism, acting as a connecting link between the camshaft (or two) and the crankshaft. It is the belt drive that is able to ensure synchronization in the functioning of the elements included in the timing kit.

Finding this important element on the engine will not take much effort. To do this, you just need to open the hood of the Lada Granta and you will see it covered with a special casing. This protection prevents contamination and the entry of foreign objects and dirt.

The design of the belt mechanism includes a rubber base and a working inner surface made in the form of teeth with a certain pitch size.

What is the AvtoVAZ factory regulation regarding replacement?

Cars of the Lada Granta model line are equipped with different versions of the power unit. Some of them are not without problems in the event of an unpleasant break in the belt drive. This is caused by a collision of pistons with valves, as a result of which the latter are bent and the engine requires repair.

The possibility of bending (if a break occurs) is not available on the “11183-50” version of the motor, which is equipped with the standard equipment.

Another important question: when to change the timing belt? To eliminate this unpleasant situation, the manufacturer deliberately regulates the periodic period of mandatory replacement of the specified “consumables”. The answer to the question of how long it takes to change the timing belt from the manufacturer is after 15 thousand kilometers. This requirement applies to both 8-valve engines and their 16-valve modifications.

Even despite the fact that the “21116” modification is equipped with a motor with an imported head, if the belt breaks, a similar sad fate awaits it.

The manufacturer does not recommend independently carrying out the procedure for either checking the condition of the belt or replacing it. And therefore, when the time has come to change the timing belt, you should contact a service center. If it is revealed that the indicated operation was performed manually, there is a high probability that the owner will be deprived of the possibility of warranty service. For self-replacement, the manufacturer provides permission regarding:

  • cabin filter;
  • a similar element for the intake system.

However, many car owners still carry out the replacement on their own, but not all new drivers know how long it takes to change the timing belt, and also which timing belt is better than the rest.

Many Lada Granta owners, especially those equipped with 16-valve versions of power units, recommend not waiting for the coveted 60 thousand km mark. This is due to the possibility of using low-quality components, which can cause wear of the replaced elements after a mileage of 20 thousand km.

This fact encourages many “Grantavods” to resort to using products of good quality, and many of them, when asked which timing belt is better, answer that it is from the manufacturer “Gates”. But we note that there are counterfeits of spare parts of this brand, and therefore it is recommended to purchase items only from trusted suppliers.

If you set out to replace the component yourself, then you should not neglect some of the recommendations below. In particular, do not forget to observe the interval at which you change the timing belt.

After hanging the belt, its correct tension is required. This is done through the use of a specialized key. Some “figures” will object, they say, we can do without it. However, here it is very problematic to dare to guarantee a high-quality result.
The force applied to the belt branch (when rotated at a 90-degree angle), located between two shafts (well-known: camshaft and crankshaft), should not exceed 20 Nm, but it should not be less than 15 Nm. If there is no “fall” within the designated parameter range, this indicates incorrect belt tension. There is only one consequence - a new regulation!

What are the signs of a worn belt?

The indicated factors will allow you to accurately determine the moment when damage begins to appear on the Lada Granta belt, which will prevent its unexpected failure (break). When to change the timing belt, how can you tell if it is worn out?

  1. Primary signs include a significant degree of material wear. This fact can easily provoke the “consumables” to slip or break when the load on the engine is insignificant or in conditions of high atmospheric humidity.
  2. The appearance of wear is often caused by a violation of the correct position of the roller in relation to the pulley. This can be confirmed by increased heating of the bearing and fabric remnants of worn out cords sticking out to the sides, used to reinforce the rubber base of the belt.
  3. The next sign will be the presence of cracks and peeling. The greater the number of these defects, the higher the chance of an early belt break.
  4. If the back surface appears excessively hard, it can be revealed by the presence of shine. This factor, associated with loss of elasticity, indicates a loss of sufficient contact between the belt and the pulleys.
  5. During operation, the belt surface may lengthen, which can cause it to jump on the teeth of the shaft pulley. Replacing the belt in this case is straightforward.
  6. Failure of the roller is a direct evidence of incorrect positioning of the belt in relation to its working plane.

What are the expected consequences of a break?

As stated, no problems with the Lada Granta engine in the 8-valve version, or if the belt drive breaks, arise only in the version of the “11183-50” unit. The remaining engines are at risk of failure in the event of a designated unpleasant incident.
In view of this, a dispute arose among the “Grantavods” regarding the advantages of LADA Granta engines with 16 and 8 valves, and which unit has more of them. Your point of view will also be very interesting.

If the belt drive breaks, the camshaft stops in the position corresponding directly to the moment of failure. In contrast, the crankshaft is subject to continued rotation. This causes the pistons to hit the valves that were in the open position at a given moment. Then the latter bend, but sometimes a breakdown of the piston bottom occurs. Popularly called “fist of friendship”!

It is based on this fact that experts are inclined to recommend changing the timing kit before the period stated by the manufacturer for this action.

conclusions

Now you know how long to change the timing belt. Undoubtedly, a broken LADA Granta belt is a source of unprecedented problems. This circumstance does not mean that you need to remain inactive. Below are a few recommendations whose goal is to minimize this risk.

1. Be very careful when checking the belt for wear. This action is recommended to be carried out after 10-15 thousand km.

2. Do not neglect checking the condition of the seals. The defect manifests itself in the form of characteristic spots under the bottom of the car.

3. The flashing of the lamp that registers the oil pressure in the LADA Granta engine may indicate a problem. If this fact manifests itself, we urgently turn off the engine and take measures to find the source of the breakdown.

4. Use only original spare parts, although no one has canceled the procedure for monitoring their condition.