The UAZ-452 has received a variety of affectionate nicknames over the years of operation: “Loaf” and “Loaf” - for its external resemblance to a bread brick, “Tablet” - for reliable service in medical organizations.

It is noteworthy that its design and individual systems - transmission, body or wiring diagram of the UAZ 452 turned out to be quite durable. Perhaps this was the only car in those years capable of reaching the most remote places for humanitarian purposes.

The famous Bukhanka has become a multi-purpose vehicle for rural areas

Meet UAZ 452

The car was a cargo-passenger version of an off-road vehicle with a 4x4 wheel arrangement. The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant mastered production of the model back in 1965.

You can evaluate its capabilities by watching the following video:

The UAZ 452 is capable of transporting cargo weighing up to 700 kg in the back. In addition, it can tow a trailer weighing 850 kg. The vehicle became very popular not only in Russian off-road conditions, but was also successfully used in large cities in various capacities (pictured in the article).

In particular:

Like a traffic police car;
As a fire engine;
Ambulance car;
Grocery store;
Utility vehicle, etc.

Electronic components

Modern color wiring diagram of UAZ 452

The electrical wiring of the UAZ 452 was a simple single-wire circuit.

Structurally, it had the following solutions:

The role of the second wire was played by the metal body and the components and assemblies attached to it;
All electronic components and actuators had a “-” displayed on the housing. The cost of such a solution justified the imperfection of the scheme.

For reference: The instructions provided for regular checking of contacts. When oxidized, they should have been cleaned with sandpaper.

Power unit

The engine compartment is located directly inside the car, as this is due to its design.

Access to components and assemblies is also provided from the passenger compartment by removing the cover, which:

Provided protection for the driver and passengers from the penetration of exhaust gases;
Protected from dust and dirt;
Served as an additional heating element (passive - from heating).

The previously used engine from Pobeda was replaced with a more modern engine from the 21st Volga. This was facilitated by the launch of a production line at the Zavolzhsky Motor Plant in 1964.

Note! Despite some skepticism regarding the inconvenience of servicing a cabover car with your own hands, years of operation have proven that there are no difficulties.

Passive vehicle safety

The design of the "Baton" with a cabover layout also initially raised a number of questions regarding safety. However, a series of crash tests conducted back in 1971 at the Dmitrov test site proved that in most emergency situations the driver and passengers of the UAZ 452 have a chance to avoid injury.

A striking example of comprehensive testing of “Tablets”

Features of electrical equipment

For designers, a more difficult process in those years was to find high-quality components to equip the ignition and lighting systems.

This can be clearly seen from the filling of the cabin:

vehicle system controls;
control devices.

External lighting

Everything that could be obtained was used to ensure uninterrupted supplies to the factory conveyor.

In particular:

from the predecessor of the Bukhanka, the GAZ-69, the factory workers borrowed a foot-operated light switch;
From GAZ-24 headlights, etc.

Ignition system

Since the Volgov engine was installed on Loaves and Bukhanki, the UAZ 452 wiring for the ignition system was almost completely copied from it.

Finally

Many of us remember the legendary car.

Therefore, his appearance at the show dedicated to the Olympic Games was perceived as part of our glorious history of the development of the domestic automobile industry.

The loaf was awarded participation in the 2014 Olympics

The electrical equipment of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519 vehicles is made according to a single-wire circuit. The negative terminals of the sources and consumers of electricity are connected to the body and other components of the car, which act as a second wire. On-board DC network, with a nominal voltage of 12 Volts. Protection of electrical circuits is organized through a fuse box.

To switch the main circuits of the car, a combined ignition switch is used, consisting of a contact part and a mechanical anti-theft device with a lock. When the engine is not running, all consumers are powered by the battery, and after the engine is started - by alternating current with a built-in rectifier unit. When the generator is running, the battery is charged.

When the engine is idling, the generator rotor speed and, accordingly, the supplied current are insufficient to provide power to powerful consumers, such as headlights, windshield wipers, electric fans, and alarms. In this mode, the battery will be discharged.

Location and purpose of fuses for electrical circuits of the on-board network of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519.

To protect the vehicle's external lighting electrical circuits from overload, a bimetallic fuse 29.3722 or similar is used, which is installed under the instrument panel on the left. Three 10 Amp fuses are installed in the PR103 fuse box, mounted on the partition of the engine compartment. They protect:

No. 1 - circuits of control devices;
No. 2 - direction indicator circuits;
No. 3 - alarm and sound signal circuits.

Fuse No. 1 is located closer to the right side of the vehicle. The heater fan motor power circuit is protected by a fuse with a rated current of 6 Amps. The fuse is located on the wiring harness next to the heater switch. UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519 vehicles can be equipped with other additional fuses, depending on the configuration.

Checking the electrical circuits of the on-board network of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519 under voltage.

Live circuits are also checked with an ammeter. The voltmeter is connected in parallel to the device or circuit section being tested. Measurement range 0–15 or 0–25 Volts DC. The negative wire (probe) is connected to ground, the positive wire to consumers or current sources. By the voltage drop, you can determine a malfunction of the supply circuit - a break, oxidation of contacts, etc., as well as a short circuit in the consumer.

To check live circuits, you can also use a test lamp with a power of no more than 3–4 W, designed for a voltage of 12 Volts, for example the AMH12-3 lamp used in the instrument panel.

The ammeter must have an upper measurement limit of at least 10 Amps DC, as well as overload protection. We connect the ammeter in series with the device being tested. The plus of the device is connected to the current source, and the minus is connected to the consumer’s plus. If the current is less than required, then the electrical circuit is faulty, and if it is more, a short circuit has occurred in the consumer.

The designers of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant equipped the UAZ 31512 with electrical equipment. The UAZ 31512 electrical circuit diagram may be needed if necessary to repair the car. For ease of repair, the manufacturer installed wires with insulation of different colors on the car.

Electrical equipment UAZ 31512

The wiring diagram of the UAZ 31512 is made according to the single-wire principle. This means that consumers have a common negative contact, which is the car body.

The electrical equipment of a car consists of several systems:

Food;
Starting and power supply of the power unit;
Measuring instruments;
External and internal lighting;
Light signaling;
Autonomous heating;
Windshield cleaning;
Sound alarm.

IMPORTANT: To prevent fire due to short circuit or overload, electrical circuits are protected by fuses.

The vehicle's on-board voltage is 12 Volts. Power is supplied from a battery and a DC generator. They are connected in parallel to the circuit. The battery powers consumers when the engine is turned off. After the installation is started, the electrical equipment is powered by a generator.

Power supply and start of the power unit

The engine is started by an electric starter. It is an electric motor. The starter is equipped with a retractor relay. It is used to turn on the device and engage the drive gear with the motor flywheel. The starter is turned on remotely using the ignition switch.

Electrical supply is necessary for the normal operation of the internal combustion engine. This includes:

High voltage coil;
Distributor;
Spark plug;
Idle speed solenoid valve;
Forced idle switch;
Idle speed control unit;
Switch.

Warning lamps and measuring instruments

On the front panel of the car there is a block of instruments and warning lamps. It is necessary to control the operation of machine components and mechanisms. Installed on the panel:

Pointer gauge for fuel level in the tank. Readings are taken from a sensor installed in the left or right tank;
Coolant temperature gauge. Indicates the temperature in the engine cooling system;
Oil pressure gauge in the lubrication system of the power unit;
Voltmeter. Serves to determine the voltage in the on-board network;
Emergency lamps for oil pressure and fluid in the brake system;
Warning lamps for direction indicators, parking brake system, low beam headlights, exceeding the permissible coolant temperature.

External and internal lighting

The car is equipped with external and internal lighting. It is necessary to use the machine at night. The exterior lighting scheme includes low/high beam headlights, side lights, and license plate lights. External lighting is controlled by a combination switch.

Internal lighting is made in the form of a interior lamp and a lamp for illuminating the engine compartment. The interior lighting is controlled by a switch mounted on the front panel. You can also read about.

REFERENCE: Interior lighting includes instrument lighting. The brightness of the backlight is controlled by the combination outdoor lighting switch.

Light signaling

The electrical circuit of the UAZ 31512 includes a light signaling system. This includes direction indicators, brake signals, and a car reversing light. Connection diagram for turn signals on a UAZ 31512 with a RS 950 relay. It is used simultaneously for turn signals and activating the hazard warning lights.

The light signaling is controlled by the following elements:

Turn switch;
Stop light button;
Reversing light switch;

Heater and horn

UAZ 31512 is equipped with an autonomous heater. The circulation of hot air in the cabin is carried out by a fan. The fan motor is started by a switch mounted on the panel. The fan motor has two rotor speeds.

The machine is equipped with a sound signal. It is necessary for the safe use of a car on public roads. Under the influence of electric current, the signal membrane begins to vibrate, producing sound. The signal is controlled by a button located on the steering wheel.

Glass cleaning

The windshield of a UAZ 31512 car is cleaned with electrically driven brushes. The wiper motor has two modes. The windshield wiper system includes an electric washer motor. The system is controlled by a combination switch.

ATTENTION: The electrical diagram includes a socket for connecting trailer wiring.

From the above it follows that the UAZ 31512 equipment consists of several electrical circuits. The wiring is made with multi-colored wires. This makes the repair procedure easier if there is a color scheme.

Electrical equipment of UAZ cars

Electrical circuit diagrams

Instrumentation and alarms

Generator

Lamps, headlights, lanterns

Connecting additional consumers

UAZ Patriot (UAZ-3163)

Vector electrical equipment diagrams 316X: (schemes sent by Viktor Gudkov)

Electrical circuit diagrams for cars Attention! - very large size, about 1.7 MB each circuit, sent by Maxim Smirnov):

Electrical circuit diagrams for cars (size 415K), (453K), sent by [Sergey AS])
Engine control system diagram (242K) UMZ-4213, UMZ-420, ZMZ-409, sent by [Sergey AS])

UAZ-3151 (31512, 31514, 31519)

UAZ-3159 (Bars)

Lamps used on UAZ vehicles

Lamps	Lamp type	Power, W
Headlights: high and low beam	A12-45x40	45x40
Turning lights (3962* / 3151*)	A12-50x40 / A12-45x40	50x40 / 45x40
Front lights
- side light	A12-5	5
- direction indicators	A12-21-3	25
Rear lights
- side light	A12-5	5
- direction indicators	A12-21-3	25
- brake signal	A12-21-3	25
Turn signal repeaters (on all vehicles except 3303*)	A12-5	5
Reversing light	A12-21-3	25
License plate light	A12-5	5
Special sign lighting lamp (3962*)	A12-21-3	25
Light under the hood (315*)	A12-21-3	25
Cabin lighting	A12-1	2,1
portable lamp	A12-21-3	25
Instrument lighting Controlling the high beam headlights Emergency oil pressure control Monitoring emergency overheating of coolant Controlling the inclusion of direction indicators Brake emergency indicator Parking brake indicator	A12-1	2,1
Control of alarm activation	A12-1.1 (A12-0.2?)	1,1 (0,8?)

Which lamps should you buy?

By the way, I hope the lamps are not Taiwan or the Emirates? And then I once bought (I was young, green) these - beautiful, 100/90, super-duper, and then I measured the current with a tester and it turned out that they were 55/60, and they also shine crookedly. But the German ones (Narva, Philips) are a thing - they shine great and the quality is excellent - you change the lamp, but you don’t need to adjust the headlights - everything remains exactly in its place. [Chief]

As an expert in this matter, I can say with confidence that you should not skimp on light bulbs.
All automotive halogen incandescent lamps are divided into three main categories:
1st (cheap) - these are light bulbs made from g%#a, i.e. bulb made of ordinary glass, low-quality spiral metal, poor soldering.
2nd (expensive) - these are high-quality lamps, i.e. quartz glass bulb, high-quality spiral metal without foreign impurities, neat stamping and soldering of the base.
3rd (counterfeits) - these are light bulbs made from materials of the first category, but carefully, and sold at prices slightly lower than the second.

The vast majority of car headlights are designed for 55 or 60/55 watt lamps. The use of any other higher power is not advisable, since the heating increase of such a lamp much exceeds the increase in illumination, which by the way is very small. Modern lamps use other methods to increase luminous flux.

I have the latest ones in both cars, PHILIPS VISION PLUS +50%. In Niva, the light bulbs have survived countless baths (when switched on, of course) and four or five sets of headlights, I don’t remember exactly how many. In UAZ they are already experiencing their second set of headlights. Both the light bulbs work and are not going to die yet.

Yes, I would like to add that it is always better to buy such light bulbs as a set! And unfortunately, there are fakes on them too... :-(
As far as I know, the “native” PHILIPS VISION PLUS was never released in a transparent plastic container! Only in cardboard boxes (set of 2 pieces) or in a blister on cardboard (pieces).
Konstantin Martyanov March 2004 (http://www.auto.ru/wwwboards/uaz/0686/212047.shtml) How to improve standard lighting without using additional lighting. headlights

You can install halogen optics. (For cars that do not have it - (U) alphabet) For halogen headlights, the optics must be indexed H4. If H2, then the reflector will burn out over time. I installed H4 optics, 90/130 lamps and supplied power to the lamps through a relay. The foot switch will not work, it will burn out quickly, and there will be losses on all sorts of connections. And then I used a thick wire to drag the power supply to the relays (two relays hang on the front wall near the left headlight), from the relay a wire to power the lamp (the closest one from one relay, the farthest one from the other) and used the old standard native wires as command wires for the relay. The light is beautiful, it shines far away, only occasionally the plastic housing of the contacts leading to the lamp melts. Well, once every six months, not more often.

After several experiments I came to the conclusion that increasing the power of the lamps is not the solution. Increases heat and load on the generator
I now have headlights with H4 optics and 100/90 lamps, but after installing additional headlights with optics from WWII (Hella), I realized that domestic headlights are not very good. I installed two low beam headlights from a BMW 5 Series in an E12 body (model of the 70s) - the result exceeded all expectations: the low beam with 55W lamps is several times better than the standard 90W used one.
With the same energy consumption, Hell headlights provide 2 times more light output than ours.
Also, in my opinion, headlights from Volkswagen cars of the Golf family or the Transporter family may be suitable.
In addition, imported headlights have flat glass, which simplifies the task of removing and installing them behind the kengurin.

I came to buy light bulbs and chose not the most expensive and not the cheapest. I paid, I take it, I open it and look - one is frankly crooked, the other is not crooked, but there is also something wrong in it. I notice something with my eye, but I can’t explain it. I ask the seller to find direct ones. I have nothing to do, and neither does the seller, he is well-fed and kind... As a result, we don’t find direct light bulbs at a price of up to 30 rubles (inexpensive store). However, we don’t find them at a price “up to 50”. Either the spiral is crooked, or something else. So what if the light bulb says “made in Germany” - it doesn’t mean anything at all. I looked at this whole bunch, and was tempted by normal German lamps for 85 rubles. per piece - you pick it up and see that this product may not be made in Germany (so what does it say that “made in germany” - no one can guarantee this anyway).
In the evening I went to install it. I installed it, drove off into the pitch darkness, and then I realized why you had to adjust/unadjust the headlights before - they still blinded oncoming people. IT IS IMPORTANT HOW THE BULB GIVES A BEAM. Even without adjustments, just after changing the light bulbs, it was clear that the mark on the ground had become significantly “closer” to the car, even along the boundaries and uniform. In 5 minutes everything was adjusted according to the book, I drove around the area, then lowered the beam a little more to the level where the light line begins “where the earth comes out” from under the hood.
Yes, I installed the usual 60/55 bulbs - and they will last longer and will not heat up like more powerful ones...

I’ve had Phillips blue vision for the second year now, I’m very pleased... They seem to dazzle people they meet less (from the observations of acquaintances), they give a kind of white-blue light, very different from the standard one for the better...

In terms of endurance, the best I found from halogens is Tungsram 90/100 (Hungarian, I think), quite cheap. I have had them since 1999. I have had about 2 weeks of driving experience with them (including in the Rostov region in the rain and at night for about 8 hours) with optics completely smashed by a stone. The light bulb is still alive, I just wiped off the dirt with a rag :-))) It is better to install special optics for H4 (Zhiguli one is suitable), without any adapters. I also installed headlight bulbs there: on the one hand, it’s impressive :-))), on the other hand, when driving in light rain and fog (when headlights are not particularly needed), the optics warm up, preventing condensation from settling inside them.

Do not get carried away with lamps with a power of more than 55\60 W. The following reasons:

The use of lamps of higher power is prohibited in Europe on public roads and serious companies do not produce such lamps. Accordingly, there is no need to talk about any quality (of lighting, first of all).
90% - that the power of such a lamp (90\100 or more watts) does not actually correspond to the declared one.
Due to the poor quality of workmanship, such lamps illuminate anything - flying helicopters, stars, blind oncoming drivers, but not the road. Although it may seem that the headlights are shining brighter.
In addition, the visibility of objects for the human eye in the yellow spectrum is higher than in the blue spectrum, because it (yellow) is closer to natural sunlight. This is about the question of “painted” xenon

What cars are the headlights suitable for the UAZ?

The diameter and seats of the headlights are unified:
Zhiguli (2101), Moskvich M408, IZH412, Niva, UAZ, GAZ 24-2410, ZAZ968, GAZ, ZIL, Kamaz trucks, PAZ buses, LIAZ, LAZ, Kavz.
You just need to remember that there are optics designed for halogen lamps and those not designed for them. Also, some headlights have holes for headlights.
And Gasoline indicator switch

I have a fuel level sensor switch under my seat (I put it there so as not to pull the wires under the instrument panel) Trip computer for UAZ

For carburetor models, you will have to install a fuel consumption sensor and a speed sensor (usually this is a pulse counter, which is placed in the gap of the speedometer shaft)

Fuel consumption sensor

Trip computer

The tachometer (from the six) looks ideal next to (to the right) the speedometer. The connection is standard - everything is written there on the body of the tach. One - on the coil (either low-voltage end). One - +12V. One is mass. One is the taha backlight. For fun, you can connect the parking brake light. The generator failure lamps will remain, but this cannot be connected without a relay. And the carb air damper open (closed) light. The last three are not connected to me, I don’t want to mess around with them yet. The hole was drilled with a 2.5 mm drill along a circumference 3 mm smaller than the diameter of the tach's circumference, then finished with a round file. The holes must first be punched. Do not press the drill too hard! Otherwise, the panel will wrap on the last holes.

I wanted to use the Gazelle, because the six only uses 1/3 of the scale - the speed is not the same. And you can put it on the left side of the panel instead of the gear shift plates. Moreover, the pointer one is more visual than the digital one and has less inertia. [Mikhail and Punto]

I installed a tachometer 35.3813 (from Gazelle) (unframed). I took the housing from an old speedometer, cut the tachometer scale to the diameter of the speedometer scale (the numbers were cut off a little, but the readings were readable). It is important to keep the transparent light guide ring (from the speedometer) to illuminate the scale; without it, the scale will not be visible at night. The installation location can be seen in the photo. Connection diagram.

I just bought a tachometer from a 3110 tidy, it’s so beautiful with backlit needles and numbers. When I tried a simple connection, nothing worked. After studying the documents and documents, everything fell into place. It connects like this: there are 3 contacts on the back of the tachometer, and 3 wires go to them: red (we connect it to the “+” of the ignition switch, I connected it to the “+” of the switch), blue (it goes to ground), and yellow (it must be connected through We connect a 62 kOhm resistor with a power of at least 1 W to the “short circuit” contact of the switch or to the ignition coil to the contact that is connected to the switch). Everything is working. Yes, device index 449.3813. [Hippo 4x4]

Digital Multitronics, for example, is the simplest option (only 3 wires): Power from the key (panel) and a wire to an additional resistance (in the instructions, see the "Volga" section)
It burned out a couple of times (either from an unstable power supply, or the design was like that) - it was replaced under warranty. Then the electricians made a fuse in it (on a pin) and wound a coil (?) - additional resistance. While it's working...
A very useful thing - now the MAIN DEVICE. [Beard U]

Installation took 15 minutes. There is no need to drill anything. Attached with Velcro. The installation location must be carefully selected. If you degrease it well, then you won’t be able to tear it off with any force. I awkwardly glued the same one on 8. Then, when I pulled it off, I broke the body of the device. Velcro is power! [Faun]
Photograph of a digital tachometer mounted on the steering wheel housing. [Chief]

It measures engine speed (dual range: when it goes beyond 1500, the readings are coarsened so that the numbers don’t flicker), the air temperature in the cabin (or outside, if the sensor is thrown outside), shows the time, the temperature can be remembered and recorded in memory, i.e. it remembers the maximum and sets the minimum temperature per day and sets the time (it will be convenient in winter to see what happened to the UAZ at night). The brightness level is adjustable to three positions so it is not annoying at night.

Electronic tachometers periodically “die”.
Perhaps this is due to the high voltage wires (more precisely, with the distributed resistance of them): my electronic tachometer wanted to work only with "relatives" wires that were originally on my long Goat.
Other sets of wires for UAZ, including
1) silicone,
2) black oak with a thick copper core,
3) red ones are almost similar to the “native” ones, but harder, with a thin copper vein
caused periodic glitches in the readings, which ultimately resulted in the device freezing.

Basically nothing good:
The clock/alarm clock is inconvenient, it shows the speed correctly only at a temperature not lower than +5 C, then it starts to glitch, the numbers jump... in general it’s better than 2106

It only makes sense if you need to know the established speeds. It is very slow, while on it 2000 it can actually go from 0 to 3500. You need a switch... Econometer for UAZ

The thing is necessary and useful, but it is not a device, but an indicator, i.e. it shows exactly the vacuum in the intake manifold. You can’t always tell what’s happening by pressing the pedal, but when driving with an econometer on a highway in the green zone, you can very well control the amount of gasoline escaping. Guaranteed to be sold in the South Port, also in the yellow truck spare parts store on the Moscow Ring Road. A trip computer costs an order of magnitude more, and it also needs to be installed. It helped me very well... but it’s not the device that saves gas, but you think, and the indicator only shows with an error of 20-30 percent, but that’s quite enough. (from UAZ-Hunter to regular UAZ)

Electronic speedometer AR 20.3802 (two-line display:
the top line is the total mileage (6 digits, insignificant zeros are displayed), the bottom line is a resettable daily trip counter), speed sensor AR 68.3843 (six-pulse, non-passing, M22 thread, Kozmodemyanovsky connector). Manufactured by RAR (Riga).

There was only one difficulty during installation - the complete lack of information about both the speedometer and the Hunter's electrical circuit. The search yielded no results. It was also not possible to find the original harness with connectors. I had to use the method of scientific poking. Everything is clear with the sensor: red – power (+12 V) (after the ignition switch), blue – signal, black – ground. (I simply cut off the connector). The speedometer connector looks like this (contact numbering is conventional):

The purpose of the pins was established:
1. Earth.
2. Power supply (+12 V). (After the ignition switch). (When voltage is applied, the liquid crystal digital display turns on. When voltage is removed, the distance traveled is saved).
3. Signal from the sensor. (To the blue wire of the sensor).
4. Night lighting (for instrument lighting).
5. 12 volt output to power the speed sensor.
6. High beam indicator (the symbol in the center of the scale lights up).
7. Nothing happens. (Probably not used).
Due to the lack of a mating part of the connector, I connected it with single wires with soldered tips (“mothers”) from audio equipment. Everything is working. Doesn't make noise. The arrow doesn't jump. The error is minimal. And at night it’s absolutely beautiful.
October 2005
Why the red fuel level indicator light does not work and how to fix it

On UAZ goats, on fuel level sensors in tanks, there is no “extra” contact for the light bulb.

Installing a non-standard fuel level sensor will help correct this situation. For example, from GAZ-53, it is the same in size. I put it in the left tank, shortened the float rod to the UAZ by making a loop. I connected a reserve indicator lamp to the second output, and placed the lamp itself on the dashboard in the fuel level indicator (new model). When I run out of gas, I know about it immediately and don’t guess like before. How can I prevent the fuel gauge from twitching at the slightest bump in the road?

Parallel to the display meter, turn on a capacitance of about 500.0 uF at 16V - I guarantee it will not twitch. (+ to the gas tank sensor, just in case).

Or maybe the problem is a bad contact on the potentiometer slider located in the tank? Installation of alarm system on UAZ

The Alligator salesman recommended it to me. Well, I bought it with installation. At the service, the installers frowned, but since the money was paid, they installed it. We spent a long time fiddling with the wiring to the back door - the UAZ was naked, and the wire was pulled down below, in the frame. And then it turned out that the UAZ was too heavy for such an alarm. That is, if you increase the sensitivity, then any touch to the car near the sensor triggers the siren. And the spare wheel at the rear can be freely removed, and the sensor does not sense this. That's what happened one day...

You have to set the alarm either yourself or through connections! I set it through connections - so the masters cursed everything in the world! The metal is thick, the approaches are awkward and all that. According to them, it turns out that during the installation (correct and good, as for yourself) you can put 3-4 Lada cars on the UAZ! Hence the moral - they won’t give you a good job just like that from the street!
P.S. I have a Mongoose - I’m happy! It doesn’t work on its own, but when you penetrate or remove the rear wheel, it screams.

The UAZ-469 was equipped with a G250-E1 generator and a PP350 voltage regulator (201.3702). Now you can install:

The G250-E1 and G250-P2 generators differ from each other in the sizes of the drive pulleys; in addition, the G250-P2 generator has not one, but two “Sh” terminals.
A distinctive feature of the PP132-A regulator (2702.3702) is the presence of a three-position switch, with which you can change the range of the regulated voltage:

Is it possible to install a Volga generator from GAZ-31029(65A) on a UAZ(40A)?

Yes, it installs without problems, only the RR needs a new one, because... The standard one is designed for a current of 3 A, but you need it for 5 A. So buy a Volgovsky RR. By the way, it is connected differently - the “+” from the short circuit goes to one brush and to the terminal without letters on the RR, and the “W” terminal of the RR is connected to the second brush. The RR itself is attached to ground.
It is worth changing the generator - it not only produces more current, but also produces it at lower HF speeds. [Chief] Volgovsky relay regulator

The Volgovsky RR, unlike the UAZ one, will also allow the installation of a 65 and 90 A generator.
If you don’t currently have an external RR, if I’m not mistaken, there are two wires going to it - one “+” from the ignition, the second wire to the generator brush. You place the RR on the body, connect the wire to the brush to the “W” terminal, and the positive wire to the terminal without a designation. It is better to buy a block for the terminals - mother 2.
Next, check the brush assembly. If two wires fit - ("+" from the ignition and the second from the PP) - then leave everything as it is. Perhaps one is suitable - from RR, then you will have to buy a Volgov brush assembly with two wires (there are two dads sticking out there). On one you hook the wire from the RR, on the other “+” from the ignition. It's better to wear a pad too. [Chief] 90 ampere generator for UAZ

When replacing the generator with a more powerful one, it is advisable to lay the wire from the generator to the battery directly and use a wire of a larger cross-section.

I put it on from Shishiga, I don’t remember the name. I had to slightly re-drill the lugs on the cylinder block, in general they can move apart (you loosen the nuts and move them), but only the rear one moves, I had to move the front one a little too, but now they are universal. And change the bolt to a longer one. The regulator was installed in the cabin, Volgovsky p/conductor.
The generator sealed:
The stator winding was filled with epoxy, carefully, in several passes. The horseshoe is also a thin layer, the temperature regime will not go away much, it is quite heat-conducting. The screws are in red sealant. It should definitely be vented. Thus, it is not possible to seal the excitation winding, i.e. When immersed in water, it apparently still won’t generate, but it shouldn’t fly out, although I haven’t tried it yet.

I stuffed myself with Gas 66. Yes, in appearance it looks like a small nuclear power plant. At first I thought it wouldn’t fit there. But it’s not a standard mount; it’s adjustable in width at the bottom. I needed to file it down a little. And I also had to cut off the half of the pulley :) it has two streams, otherwise it clings to the meat grinder. I've been riding for over a month now, all sorts of rides, Tver, chandelier winches, everything... it works without problems.

Problems of a 90-amp generator - diodes Having disassembled a glitchy 90-amp generator, I discovered that 3 out of 6 diodes had burned out. The new generator supplied (also 90 A) also raises doubts - there is an impression that at first it “powered” better (i.e., apparently one diode burned out). [Chief]

I took one for myself, for 90A, it was written that it was for GAZ-53 and UAZ. Before installing, I opened it and looked at it. Everything inside is ok (windings, brushes, bearings). I pulled out the diodes, tested them for current - 2 burned out

From GAZ-53 it is completely similar to UAZ. But, there are also 2 types of them, standard (65A) and 90A. The GAZ-53 generator does not have a tablet. Those. throw away the brushes with terminal "Ш" and put on the tablet.
By the way: generators from UAZ, Bychka, 53rd Lawn are all like brothers, both in size and quality

Generator 90A from Audi 100.
Alterations: The ear was drilled out for the UAZ bolt + the standard fastener was slightly altered with the addition of a bushing for the bolt. The point of reworking the fastening and making a bushing (several thick washers is possible) is to position the generator pulley with the pump pulley in the same plane.
By the way, 90 ampere generators from the Audi 100 come in 2 types. You need one with one large eye for the bolt (the other type has two small ears). But I still recommend going in search of a generator with your own UAZ in your hands. And there are different pulleys, but there is practically one like the UAZ one - take it. Here (Minsk) such a generator costs 25-30 USD. Why do you need to move the diode bridge into the cabin?

In severe conditions, the temperature under the hood will be 80-100 degrees. And semiconductors retain their performance up to a maximum of 70 degrees. Those. diode bridge, RR, if they are under the hood, they will simply stop working.

There is another reason: as far as I know, the diodes are glass, and having heated up to operating temperature, they maintain it while the generator is running, you (or me, or someone else: o)) drive into the water, they burst into water when immersed in it due to the difference temperatures and when leaving the ford, you get a dead generator. It is precisely for these reasons that I bring them into the salon.

Bus generator from LIAZ, type KATEK G-286 A, 14 V 80 A. Its “plus” is that it produces current from 500 rpm, but its dimensions, weight and landing... To install it, I had to make a new bracket from a thick iron strip using a grinder and welding. Now the fastening has gone down a little. A small pulley allows you to power the Carlsons at idle without draining the battery. Only one belt is missing in this situation. The picture shows two belts and a Gas 24-10 pulley on the crankshaft.

I saw from the PAZ it was at 120A. Same size. The whole alteration comes down to cutting out the fasteners from the corner with a grinder. Why do you need a more powerful generator to charge a powerful battery?

The car uses a constant voltage charging circuit for the battery.
If you install a more capacious battery, then it will take more current from you when charging. Therefore, the supply of current supplied by the generator should be greater. That is why it is recommended to install it with a larger battery - a more powerful generator.
The on-board network has a relay regulator whose task is to keep the voltage within certain limits. As the load increases, the relay-regulator increases the duration of control currents into the excitation winding of the generator and thereby forces the generator to deliver more current at a constant voltage.
This can continue until the load exceeds the generator maximum (in the first case it is 90A). If the maximum is exceeded, the relay regulator can no longer maintain the voltage, because There is nowhere to increase the current. Accordingly, the voltage will sags (fall). Well, of course, for a 100A generator the voltage drop will occur later - i.e. it can withstand 10A more load. That's all. And if the load is less than 100A, then it will behave exactly the same as 90A. [Professor] Isn’t it dangerous to install a generator with more power than the battery?
When I start the UAZ in the morning, all 85 Amps (from the generator) charge the battery (albeit briefly). At the same time, in any book on auto electrics it is written that you CANNOT charge the battery with a current greater than 1/10 of its capacity, that is, in my case, 6.5 A. And here is a thirteen-fold excess?

In short, auto. generator + (relay-regulator) is a voltage source - its task is to maintain a more or less stable voltage in the on-board network. After starting the engine, the current shown by the ammeter is determined by the “desire” of the generator to provide 13-14 V in the network, and the battery itself decides how much it needs, and takes it from the belly, with fright from the discharge that just happened to it. Its technical characteristics are included in the design and everything is provided for - 10 hour charge - 1/10 capacity, 20 hour and accelerated charge - 300% of the first (for imported ones up to 500).
“You CANNOT charge the battery with a current greater than 1/10 of its capacity” - I agree, but in the specifications for the battery there is a parameter "short-term" or "non-destructive" charging current. So 1/10 is constant charge.

There are devices that “smooth out” this short-term charge; they try to replace the voltage source with a current source.
7A at the beginning of work will provide approx. 13V, and after acc. will charge (quite quickly) and “refuse” to take so much, the voltage will begin to rise - up to the generator’s no-load voltage (approx. 18 V) to force the battery. "get drunk". I made a similar device, and studied the issue along the way.
Summary: if acc. if it’s good, it will last 6 years, but if it’s bad, greenhouse conditions won’t help it. How to check the generator?

The field winding can be checked without disassembling the generator - the resistance between the slip rings should be 2.5 ohms.
To check the diode bridge, the generator must be disassembled (although I believe that if the generator is 65 A, the likelihood of the diodes flying out is small). Nevertheless, they are checked this way: you take a light bulb with wires, hook one wire to the “+”, the other to the contact bolt of the winding (unhook the winding itself). You apply the “-” wire in turn to the positive and negative terminals of the block. In one case the lamp should light, in the other it should not. If the lamp on the bolt does not light up at all, the diode has burned out. If it lights up in any way, the diode is shorted. You check all three bolts in turn, then swap the wires going to + and - of the battery and check all three bolts again. [Chief] Thoughts on improving power supply

I want to create a circuit with two generators, but so that their circuits do not touch, and one of the generators does not work at all in its normal state, but is turned on only for additional load (chandelier, winch, etc.)..
I copied this diagram from an old German(?) jeep. That's exactly how it was done there: 2 generators on both sides of the engine. And it seems normal...

There are two aspects to the problem at hand - reliability and cost. Buy one powerful foreign-made generator, and put your own one in reserve. Technical problems have been solved, reliability - if something happens, we install the remaining spare original generator; in terms of money, I think the costs are at least comparable...[_BYKA]

I have plans for 2 fuse blocks - 1st (hood) - light relay (high and low), sound signals, carlosons. A thick wire from the battery goes to it, since there is a considerable current there. The control wires are thin, from the interior. All relay windings are protected by 1 common fuse. Relay contacts and consumers are each protected in their own way. There are already quite a lot of relays and fuses for this nuclear power plant. I planned to make it sealed and place it on the front panel of the engine compartment, since there are not particularly vital electronics there, but it will allow all the power wires to be short. Although you can go to the salon.
2nd box in the cabin. Everything else is in it - electrics for wipers and washers (rear and front), ignition systems, tidy, radio stations, music, turn signals/hazard lights, sockets, interior lighting, generator electrics (rectifier, RR), etc.

To prevent the battery from discharging to zero, I advise you to slightly alter the light circuit so that the headlights turn on only when the ignition is on. In this case, you would be left with dimensions that might not have time to completely discharge the battery. And for short-term illumination of picnic areas, you can use a finder headlight. 11.2001 [Chief] How to disassemble a bendix without damage?

Using a sharp screwdriver, carefully pry up the edge of the rolling and around and around! :-)) When the rolled body begins to move towards the gear, then to give the ribbed edges (due to bending with a screwdriver) the correct round shape, move one side onto the cylindrical part of the clutch body and straighten them with a hammer. You can do it differently (although it’s more tedious :-)) - cut the rolled edge into sectors (3-5 mm) and bend them. Reassemble in the reverse order using a hammer - carefully bend the edges of the folding, tapping them in a circle. [Chief] Bendix adjustment

Have you turned the starter shaft? It is eccentric and regulates the “reach” of the Bendix. This is checked this way - with the starter removed, apply a plus to the control terminal of the solenoid relay (do not attach the “+” to the power bolt, but connect the starter housing to ground). In this case, the bendix jumps out, but the armature does not spin. Bendix should not reach the thrust ring by 1-2 mm. From practice, even half-worn flywheel teeth are captured normally.
"Underproduction" of Bendix is quite common on new starters. Another opposite is "transition". In this case, the bendix rests against the crown, but the power contacts of the starter have not yet closed - and it does not spin. That is, when turned on, the starter makes a “click” and is silent. [Chief] Why did the starter turn slowly?

If the battery is serviceable, then one of the reasons may be a bad “ground” on the engine. Even if this is not the case, then it would still not be superfluous to perform the following operation:
I bought 8mm copper insulation with copper ears (80r). I didn’t want to crawl under the car in the mud, I screwed it to the place where it fit - one end to the rocker cover for fastening the bracket of some hose (vacuum regulator hose - (U)). The second end reached exactly the nearest bolt on the body - it turned out to be the top screw securing the coil. That's where I screwed it under the coil.
I immediately noticed the effect - the wire from the gene stopped heating up, the starter began to spin 2 times faster. I didn’t touch the old wickerwork at all - let it hang. Selecting the car wire cross-section

Nom. cross section, mm2	Current strength in a single wire, A under continuous load and at ambient temperature, o C
Nom. cross section, mm2	20	30	50	80
0,5	17,5	16,5	14,0	9,5
0,75	22,5	21,5	17,5	12,5
1,0	26,5	25,0	21,5	15,0
1,5	33,5	32,0	27,0	19,0
2,5	45,5	43,5	37,5	26,0
4,0	61,5	58,5	50,0	35,5
6,0	80,5	77,0	66,0	47,0
16,0	149,5	142,5	122,0	88,5

Note: when laying wires with a cross-section of 0.5 - 4.0 mm2 in bundles, the cross-section of which contains from two to seven wires along the route, the permissible current in the wire is 0.55 of the current in a single wire according to the table, and when the presence of 8-19 wires - 0.38 of the current in a single wire. [Lada FAQ] Is there a speedometer with “daily mileage” for UAZ?

Take it from the Volga - everything is one to one (speed and distance). I tried it myself. The speedometer gear ratios are the same, so it’s easy to get up from 2410. From 3110 it’s worse - you need a speed sensor for the box. [Chief] Improved speedometer backlight

It really annoyed me that I couldn’t see the speedometer in the dark...
But in general, it doesn’t hurt, but it’s not pleasant.
Disassembled. A design flaw is that the backlight bulb is located at the bottom and is covered by the speedometer mechanism. As a result, only the bottom is normally illuminated, which is of little interest to the odometer. At the top there is a high beam indicator lamp. There is an iron tube running from it inside so that only the hole on the dial glows, and there is a blue light filter on the tube.
The backlight lamp has a green light filter in the form of a cap. The whole thing is on rivets.
I thought that the illumination of the upper part of the speedometer was more important for me - where the scale is and threw out the high beam lamp and broke off the tube. I replaced the backlight lamp in place of the high beam lamps.
Now the speedometer backlight is just a fairy tale! I didn't even expect such a result :) Calibrating the coolant temperature gauge

On my UAZ I installed a variable resistance parallel to the temperature sensor in order to calibrate the temperature gauge. I did this because I was tired of his incorrect testimony. The resistance value is approximately 1 kOhm. You can calibrate it like this: take the sensor, immerse it in a mug of water (not completely), connect the wire from the machine and ground, heat the water with a boiler to a boil (100 degrees), use a trimmer to set the device to 100 degrees - and you can drive, controlling the real temperature . [Gogi] Electronic instrument cluster diagram AR 110.3801

I bought a panel for 3162 from RAR. http://www.shop.3160.ru/index.php?productID=3394

An excellent modern panel for the 3160 series. But I was looking for the circuit for a very long time, the RAR factory sent it away. In Ulyanovsk I found out that it is in the service book 3162, the book's circulation is only 500 copies! I finally found the scheme and would like it to be available to everyone. the copy is very bad:
Page 1 , Page 2

Lepisa Dmitry (December 2007)
How to remove optical elements (headlights) with a standard headlight?

No way. You need to remove the guard - the work takes 15-20 minutes, there should be no problems, only 6 bolts.

I bent the top wire down. But it can be broken...

These wires are not needed at all, they are a pain in the ass - you can’t wash them or take out their eyes. I cut them down. I often drive through the forest, on primers with gravel - there were no problems with the headlights. So, in my opinion, the delays are a sham.

By the way, the mounting bracket for the exhaust pipe of the muffler from 2141 is ideal for headlights on kengurin. Both rigid and in size. [Timosha] What kind of “hardware” is put on the headlights of military vehicles?

This is called the SMU light-camouflage device, supplied only for military equipment and put on it during battles, reduces the visibility of the vehicle from an airplane, an extremely necessary thing in everyday life (what if Aeroflot planes see you), is found only in military units, purchased from warrant officers at the established rate in foreign currency (liquid).

In addition to narrowing the light flux, the SMU has one more feature: you can insert light filter stands (like UV spectrum) into it, which, when combined with a binocular helmet-mounted night vision device (a rather ancient thing, like theater binoculars attached to a tank helmet), allows you to drive while hovering, although almost by touch. In normal life, adults don’t need to be a hundred years old; the headlights shine much better than what can be seen through this device. Where is it better to get the “+” to connect a chandelier, SV-ishka and other extras? consumers?

It is better to power the SV from the battery, the chandelier after the ignition switch. Everything is powered through the mandatory add-ons. fuses to protect the wires. It is better to install an additional fuse box. It is advisable to power powerful consumers through a relay, although IMHO it is better to install powerful (~20A) toggle switches. It’s also a good idea to kill the bimetallic one by scattering consumers throughout the same additional block. It is useful to introduce an ammeter into the torpedo; it will become clear whether the generator needs to be changed or not. What is the best way to connect additional energy consumers?

Necessarily through fuses - an axiom

1. It is highly desirable that the minuses of the power supply of each high-current consumer converge as a “star” at one point, and better - on the battery. Otherwise, if the ground contacts are poor and the points of its connection are far from the original one, ringing (interference) and interference in radio and sound amplification equipment are possible. The iron of a car body is not at all such a good and reliable conductor... The same, in principle, applies to the advantages of power supply, but mass is more important.
2. In the stores there are ready-made braided power wires for the battery, which have lamella taps (“male”) at the terminals of the battery for connecting additional consumers - they are wider than usual, they probably hold currents of up to 30 A. Such wires seem to be standard are on the new Volgas. [ATZ]

There is a cable clamp on sale (electric terminal block) - it hangs on a thick wire, connects a thinner one, which goes to some standard terminal block with bolts. All this is sold in industrial electrical shops. The negative terminal is generally just a non-insulated zero from the electrical panel, bolted to the iron, a kind of copper stick with holes and bolts, sometimes with at least 30 holes. Ammeter, its type, where it is better to connect

More often you come across 30/30 on sale (native UAZkin, and there are many places), there are 50/50, I got 100/100 from PAZ.
Connect: "-" of the device to the "+" battery, with a thick wire from the 10 square generator to the "+" of the device, from which we distribute it to consumers, including the ignition switch, accordingly, we tear off the thin wire from the starter altogether. We leave the thick one between the battery and the starter; there is nothing to measure there - the current is large, but only for a short time, so the starter misses the device!

To measure the charge-discharge current of the battery, you need to do this: connect the wire from the generator to the consumer wire (it comes from the + terminal of the starter, where the thick wire from the battery also fits), and from this connection, throw a wire through an ammeter to the battery. [Chief] The voltage in the network “floats” when the additional power is turned on. consumers

This occurs due to a voltage drop in the generator-regulator circuit. If you measure the voltage on the battery, it will fluctuate around 14-16 V. The cardinal solution is to connect the “+” terminal of the generator to the “+” terminal of the regulator through a relay that closes when the ignition is turned on. This will also avoid “overcharging” the generator due to overvoltage. Also check all contacts - including the “mass” ones... [Chief]

When I was fed up with a large drop in voltage in the power supply circuit of the excitation winding of the generator (1.5-2 V!) and, as a result, the battery boiling over, I supplied power to the relay-regulator directly from the “+” of the generator through a relay that closes when the ignition is turned on. After this, the voltage on the battery became stable at 13.9-14 V, but consumers began to receive less of it (this is also a consequence of the thin generator wire), having 12-12.5 V. Then I connected the “+” of the generator and the “+” of the battery with a 10 mm2 wire. The result is excellent - the voltage is stable 13.5! In this case, I cheated a little, achieving the same effect as you - I did not lay a backup of the standard generator-starter wire, but laid it to the battery (there is already a “thick-thick” line going to the starter!) [Chief]

Causes:
First: Belt tension.
Second: The diode bridge (horseshoe) was partially burned out. This is a replacement
Third: What I had. The bastardly thin wiring from the generator should pass all 65A. charging current, and mine was charred and half burned near the attachment to the generator. This was the reason. It is absolutely necessary to change it entirely. [Timosha] How to properly connect an electric winch? The mass does not turn off (it goes through the winch)

In general, the “minus” from the battery is also duplicated by a wire to the winch. When the ground switch is turned off, the ground will still be on the car body (closed through the winch). It was decided as follows: since the car was being prepared for a trophy in the TP2 category, an emergency mass switch from SPARCO was installed with the ability to turn off the engine when turned off. It has 2 jumperable power contacts (not one and a housing as on the standard one). One of them was connected to the minus battery, the other had two power wires: one - minus the winch, the other minus to ground. Thus, when the mass is turned off, the winch chain also breaks. The vehicle is completely de-energized... As an alternative to the expensive ($35) switch from SPARCO, you can install a two-pole ground switch with a powerful metal key, sold in truck spare parts stores. Price - 250 rub. In general, in my humble opinion, this device is not superfluous for a combat SUV... Since it greatly reduces the likelihood of a fire due to short-circuit wiring... What is the best way to wire the roof?

The wires go from the switch under the instrument panel under the dashboard, then along the rack, where there is a small triangle connecting the roof and the windshield frame, a hole is drilled through it along the trunk rack (I have a chandelier - an integral part of the trunk) - to the headlights. The door does not fray the wires. September 2003
Battery charging indicator

There is such a thing, a voltage regulator, called RN-4. So there is an indicator light there. When at low engine speeds there is not enough generator to power consumers, the light comes on. The same is true when there is no charging. In general, it lights up when electricity is being consumed. with battery. And goes out when sufficient power is supplied from the generator. Very comfortably. I have had RN-4 for 5 years and problems. did not have. Replacing the standard sound signal with a Volgovsky one We have two suitable wires, one of which, as far as I understand, is constantly energized, the second is apparently the control one, from the button on the steering wheel. On Volgovsky there is one terminal (although there are two snails)

Everything is quite simple - you need to plug in a 527 or universal relay. On the 527, you attach the “+” to the middle leg, to the outer one (which is closer) the wire from the signal button, and the remaining one you connect to the signals. On universal + you throw on 85 and 30, on 86 - a button, on 87 - signals.
For good sound, the signal must resonate - attach it not directly to the body, but through a 1.5-2 mm steel plate approximately 30 mm wide. [Chief] Speedometer adjustment

Inside the speedometer there is a coil spring with an adjuster. Use this regulator to increase (if the readings are too high) the “tension” of the spring. To do this you will have to disassemble the case. [Chief] Simplifying engine starting

Needed under the hood next to the extra. starter relay, put a small button that closes 2 terminals of this relay ("+" and the one to which the wire from the ignition switch comes). This will allow you to turn the engine with the starter when the ignition and generator are turned off. Some tips on the electrical remodeling procedure

I did everything in parts. The electrics are all homemade. To begin with, I threw out all the old wiring (kept it only for connectors, etc.) and started making my own from individual wires. I started with this scheme: http://akolubaev.narod.ru/myfiles/uazka/2.jpg. The wires were approximately 3mm in diameter (high currents are good for winter). Next, I fasten the wire, make a mark on the diagram, etc. When you connect everything according to this diagram, don’t be lazy, run your eyes over it just in case. If no errors are found, you can try to start. If everything is OK, we form the wiring into a harness. That is, you secure it with electrical tape in the places where the wires diverge (diverge). Next, all this equipment can be removed and thoroughly insulated. Next, I prepared diagrams for connecting devices and sensors, that is, I took the diagram for 31512 from the site and removed the extra wires in Paint (tedious, but reliable). Continue as I did before. Etc. As a result, the wiring turned out no worse than the standard one. It took a lot of time just to pick out the old connectors and fasteners. Finder headlight: which is better - the original UAZ one or Chinese handicrafts for 500-1000 e?

"Native" with modifications. You take your original headlight, with smooth glass. The glass is clamped by the petals on the reflector, you take the glass out. You need it. Next, in the store you buy a high beam headlight from 2106 (thin halogen). Carefully knock out the glass, you need a reflector. Don't scratch it. Glue the glass of the finder headlight there and insert it into the body. All! You have a halogen finder headlight with very good performance. [Alien, RoadHawk]

You can immediately look for a “native” one for halogen optics - (U). Reworking the battery mount

After another incident with the battery flying out of its place (tearing off the standard basket) and almost ending in a fire under the hood, I decided that it was necessary to do a more competent fastening of the battery. Since the car is used for sports, securing the battery is one of the main safety requirements. With these thoughts I came to our garage where Shura “Alien” is working on his 469 UAZ. Because Shura completely redesigned the face of his UAZ (mud flaps, fenders), then he already had to face the problem of installing the battery. This problem was solved by making a “basket” for the battery from a steel corner... His design looks like this:

Having figured out what was what, Shura quickly built a basket for me, taking into account its installation on 31512... It is secured in its regular place with three bolts. After that, I ran to the nearest store, where I bought two belts for fastening the expansion tank from a VAZ "classic".. Having slightly tinkered with the fasteners, these belts were installed on the wall of the engine compartment above the basket, like this:

According to my estimates, this design provides a fairly rigid fastening of the battery, but at the same time does not complicate its replacement...
Sergey Kirsanov
Luggage compartment lighting

I made the trunk lighting according to this scheme. The placement of the end and switch can be seen in photo 1, the lights - in photo 2. If there is no security guard, then decoupling diodes are not needed. It is possible without the end cap, then you can only turn it on manually (currently there are three positions: off, on manually, on automatically when the trunk is opened). [Anatoly Khokhryakov (HOHAN)]

I have a 1989 car, originally it had a contactless ignition system. Later it was converted to contact, which in principle I do not regret. And each has its own pros and cons. We’re not talking about them. I had to use the old-style UAZ 3303 wiring diagram, of course, with a carburetor.

The plant immediately warns about the possibility of making changes to the electrical circuit. Since the car is almost 30 years old, there are such changes. I will give several diagrams with contact and non-contact ignition systems for different UAZ vehicles. But since in those days there were no special differences, I consider them similar with some differences.

Electrical wiring diagram

The top picture shows a non-contact version of the car's electrical wiring in color; the bottom picture shows an older model.

Old style UAZ 3303 wiring diagram

The electrical circuit of the UAZ 3303 generator shown separately is shown above.

The circuit having an ignition system with contacts is taken from 469. There is a radio receiver on the circuit, this is interesting.

Electrical circuit of UAZ 469 similar to 3303 with contact ignition system

In conclusion, I present another one from an onboard UAZ 33036 that is newer, but not yet fuel-injected.

What military ranks were there in the Tsarist Army of Russia?

Osho Chakra Singing (Sounds of the Chakras, Chakra Sounds Meditation) Mantras for the chakras

Meditation on sound in space

Test your level of awareness

UAZ wiring diagram: features of modifications with multifunctional control. For reference for a novice auto electrician: UAZ wiring diagram UAZ ignition wiring diagram