Electric fan UAZ (optional) carburetor engine with installation kit "Autogur73". Installation of electric fans on UAZ Electric fan on UAZ

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Article: 3151-1308008-10

Product dimensions in packaging (mm): 430x95x526
Weight, kg: 3.25

Specifications

Voltage, V - 12

Current consumption, A, no more than - 8

Rotation speed - 2700

Weight, kg - 1.9

Outer diameter of the impeller, mm - 285

Air capacity, m3/s - 0.54

Pressure, Pa - 90

The radiator will only operate if there is airflow through the radiator core. When the vehicle is moving, the radiator receives natural air flow, but when the car is idle or moving slowly, there may not be enough air flow from the main fan to operate the radiator. This is why an additional radiator fan is so important. Installing an additional fan will help circulate air through the radiator and allow it to keep your engine cool. Otherwise, you risk overheating and destroying the engine.

Advantages of an electric radiator fan over a standard mechanical one

A mechanical fan is driven by a motor and rotates faster or slower as the motor speeds up and slows down. This means that at lower engine speeds the fan also rotates slowly. This is not very useful considering the engine is idling. In addition to this, mechanical fans use engine energy, resulting in reduced power and fuel consumption.

Electric blowers are connected to your car's electrical system and provide constant airflow even when the car is stationary (traffic jams) and your engine needs it the most. Since the fan is powered by electricity, it does not impose a mechanical load of fan rotation on the engine, which means fuel savings, and the power transmitted by the engine to the wheels is lossless.

When dismantling the main fan in winter, the electric fan will offer another huge advantage - quickly warming up your car, because... The fan does not turn on until a certain temperature.

Advantages of the UAZ "Autogur73" electric radiator fan

increasing the efficiency of the cooling system without loss of engine power;
reduction in fuel consumption;
increased service life of the car engine;
comfort of use in winter;
ease of installation;
comes with installation kit;
competitive price.

Equipment

electric fan
casing
pipe with sensor (depending on the car model, one of two options for pipes and sensors is used)
fan relay and fuse
electrical blocks with contacts
wiring

Sensor type TM 108. Temperature on. 92 C, shutdown temperature 87 C. Pipeline diameter 36 mm.

Operating principle.

Sensor type TM 108-02. Temperature on 87 C, shutdown temperature 82 C. Pipeline diameter 42 mm.

Operating principle.
A push-type electric fan is installed in front (along the direction of the vehicle) of the radiator in addition to the standard fan located behind the radiator. The electric fan is turned on and off automatically, based on a signal from a sensor installed in the radiator pipeline.

Operating principle.

A push-type electric fan is installed in front (along the direction of the vehicle) of the radiator in addition to the standard fan located behind the radiator. The electric fan is turned on and off automatically, based on a signal from a sensor installed in the radiator pipeline.

Installation of an additional fan on UAZ 452 doors. 409

Disconnect the hose from the radiator to the expansion tank.
Unscrew the engine and gearbox protection on the right side for ease of operation.
Unscrew the brake pipe connector from the front crossmember.
Disconnect the oil hoses from the oil rodator.
Unscrew the oil cooler.
Unscrew the transition corners from the cooling radiator on the left and right.
Buy 8 bolts 8x20.
Buy 2 new oil hoses 10-15 cm longer, or clamps, connectors, cut 50 cm of oil-resistant hose locally and connect.
Install the additional fan, the oil cooler on its casing and the rest in reverse order.

Sales are carried out from a warehouse in Ulyanovsk. Delivery of the product "UAZ electric fan (additional) carburetor engine with installation kit "Autogur73"" is carried out to Moscow, Samara, St. Petersburg, Nizhny Novgorod, Yekaterinburg, Saratov, Krasnodar, Kazan, Perm, Orenburg, Penza and any other cities and regions of Russia .

We are the manufacturer of this product! By purchasing it from us you save time and money!

For regular customers and wholesale buyers, cooperation with us is beneficial thanks to the existing system of discounts, the program of which you can find out from our managers.

Installation of electric fans on UAZ

Sergey "ss"

The first step is to remove the old casing and the old fan. To prevent the standard screws securing the pump pulley from clinging to the pump itself, you need to add washers to the thickness of the standard fan.

The second step is to prepare the casings of the electric fans (EV). To do this, cut down or saw off the extra ears and cut out the extra edge of the metal (Fig. 1)

And also make cuts on the opposite side so that you can bend the edge (as shown in Fig. 2)

Now you can fasten the casings at 3 points (2 standard holes on the ears and one drilled with a 6.5 mm drill at the point of contact of the fan rims perpendicular to the plane of the ears).

Having made the cuts, straighten the curved edge and bend the edges in the same direction along the lines by 90 degrees along each line (should look like in Figure 3)

Next, you need to very carefully measure the locations of the holes. To do this, either remove your radiator, or find a similar one somewhere and, attach it, measure it! Then use a 6.5 mm drill to drill holes at the measured points.

You take a metal tube with a 10-15 mm hole and cut out “bushings” from it, which must be inserted between the planes like washers stretched in space (shove a bolt into the hole in the tube).

Now we need to attach the electric motors. To do this, you remove the fans from them (don’t lose all sorts of small parts!) You knock out the standard riveted bolts, straighten the ears, put the fans back on and attach the motors to the casings using rubber bushings (to reduce vibration).

Next, you remove the radiator fasteners (if you haven’t removed the radiator before), and install the assembled structure in its original place. The radiator "stretchers" will have to be slightly bent to put them in place. If the structure touches the pump pulley, you need to bend the radiator forward using these stretch marks. My distance was approximately 2 cm.

Next is the matter of electrics. The connection diagram is on electric fan control device, which can be bought in Moscow at the Mitinsky radio market (metro station Tushinskaya) place N-14. Manufacturer's website.

Chief

Installation requires:
- 2 fans. Ours are suitable from AZLK, VAZ (four or eight blades, in principle, it doesn’t matter, I took 8.) or BOSCH 0130304245 (the latter is better and more reliable, but also more expensive). It’s better to buy ours in the store - there are a lot of “left” ones
- 2 fan casings from Oka or VAZ 2108(09)
- 1 threaded pipe for a Volga fan sensor, or an electronic device for turning on the fan (controlled by a standard temperature sensor)
- 1 switching sensor (preferably from a Moskvich at 87-82 g, or from a classic at 92-87 g). Beware of the “leftists” - without the quality control department stamp and markings!
- a universal relay, wires (cross-section 2.5 mm) and a 30 A fuse (I installed a bimetallic one), male-female connectors and preferably a block for the relay.

We act like this.
It is advisable to remove the radiator or take it from somewhere as a template. On the casings we cut off all the existing tabs and pins for attaching them to the radiator. We fasten them to each other through two holes in the stamping with M8 bolts (in this case, you will have to slightly trim the flat part being joined). The result is a horizontally double casing. The outer edges of the casing will protrude beyond the radiator - they need to be bent forward in the direction of travel by making small cuts in place from the edges (approximately at the level of the “circle” under the fan). The “upper” and “lower” parts of the casing are slightly bent in place (with a radiator from 3160 it fits anyway). As a result, the casing covers the entire “honeycomb” part and goes around the edges of the mounting plate of the standard casing. Next, through the mounting holes of the standard casing (there are 4 of them), we mark and drill 4 6 mm holes in the new casing. We screw M6 bolts 25-30 mm long into the radiator. This way we get “studs” for attaching the new casing. In order not to deform the casing when tightening the nuts, you need to make either spacer bushings, or (as I did) screw several nuts under the casing, achieving the same effect.

Having installed the fans in the casing, we try everything on in place (to the radiator). The casing should be tightly secured, and the fans should not catch on anything. It is advisable to lay a strip of rubber or polyethylene foam between the casing and the radiator tubes to avoid rubbing. We install a tube with a hole for the sensor into the lower radiator hose and screw it in.

All that remains is to assemble everything and connect the electrical. We throw one sensor wire to ground, and the other to leg 85 of the relay. We connect leg 86 to the ignition, and to the remaining outer legs we connect “+” through the fuse and “+” to the fans (it is blue). We connect the black wires from the fans to ground.

All that remains is to check everything in action. To begin with, with the ignition on, we close the sensor contacts - the fans should turn on and off when opened. Well, then we warm up the engine. If you're lucky and the sensor is normal, they should turn on at 90 and turn off at 85 degrees.

The thermostat responds to the temperature at the engine outlet, and the sensor - at the radiator outlet. That is, the sensor sets the temperature to which the water in the radiator is cooled. That is, it cannot “overcool” the engine. But you can raise the operating temperature.

P.S. It is really useful to disassemble the motors and check for quality (especially how the magnets hold), and at the same time lubricate them.

Reversing the fans allows you to eliminate the “dead zone” when the propellers operate. It makes up approximately 3-4% of the total radiator area. Whether it is a lot or a little - everyone decides for himself. In addition, the blades fit into the diffuser more “correctly”, reducing the “back suction”. At one time I studied this issue very carefully. The fact is that the Oka or V8 fan is “sandwiched” between the engine and the radiator. Those. every millimeter is important there. Therefore, the design of the casing is not very “competent”. For example, on the 41st Moskvich (where there is no size limit), the fan is moved 2-3 cm away from the radiator and the flow is almost uniform over the entire area.

AVG

1. Fans, in my opinion, should be taken with 8 blades, immediately disassembled, lubricated, and assembled with sealant, which you should not skimp on.

2. Housings, I took Okovsky ones - the cheapest. Finish with a grinder so that you press one against the other and rivet. Next, use corners along the entire length from top to bottom; it is also better to go through it with a riveter. The bottom corner fits well into the groove on the radiator. You apply this design to the radiator, prepare two vertical corners, and by applying them determine where they need to be attached in order to get into the original mounting holes of the old casing.
You may have to push the radiator forward, especially if the power steering is in place. I bent the standard radiator rods into the letter “G”, cut them, cut the threads and brought them out forward in the direction of travel, it turned out conveniently, but only two nuts stick out in the area of the hood buttons.

3. There are no issues with the relay, they are standard VAZ ones, the fans consume about 10A. At the same time, install a 3-position toggle switch. In the middle of the load, on one shoulder 12V pure, on the other through the relays.
The result is: the middle position is “forced off”, and the extreme ones are “on for life”, “on automatically”.

4. Regarding the control unit. In my opinion, you can only install something highly reliable, consider technologically advanced, in cars, but I would think about blocks soldered on the knee. Although the absolute solution has its advantages, for example adjusting the response threshold, but once again I say my deep IMHO - the simpler the better. The sensor is not reliable, but it doesn’t take long to change it. I screwed it in with an adapter from RAF that I bought in a store, a great rarity. Some people solder brass bushings into tanks.

5. Wires. For a thicker fan - 2.5 sq. mm, for a sensor it doesn’t matter, at least 0.5. It’s better not to skimp on ground wires.

RostovDriver

to attach to the radiator, I cut out two adapter plates (size 25x400) which I screwed to the original radiator mounts, and then I screwed the resulting structure to them, the plates can be seen in the upper part of the photo

Since this whole structure was difficult to fit clinging to the pump shaft, I had to remove the standard radiator rods and slightly tilt it forward (don’t forget to loosen the lower fastenings a little before doing this) and fixed it with a long pin and a bolt, drilling holes in the radiator shaft (Well, I don’t know how to do it correctly name, but when you tilt the radiator, it will become clear where to drill and where to twist). These moments are not visible in the photo, because then I screwed the sidewalls covering the radiator into place, they became a little crooked, due to the fan diffuser casing, but they became stable.

I really didn’t want to torment the radiator by inserting a switching sensor into it, so I bought a Volgov pipe and a sensor at 87-92 degrees, since the radiator is slightly tilted forward, it was easy to insert the pipe into the cut in the pipe between the radiator and the thermostat.

We connect all this through a relay and a toggle switch in case it needs to be turned off, for example before fords. Photo "relay". I didn’t force inclusion because I don’t see the point in it.

Tests have shown that this whole thing starts blowing incredibly loudly when the temperature on the display meter is 92 and stops at 80. The trouble is that at idle with the low beam switched on, the generator cannot cope and discharge occurs. There is an idea for the future to install another sensor somewhere else, at a different temperature, so that they do not always work together.
It may also be necessary to cover with something the parts of the diffusers protruding from the sides of the radiator, because perhaps a noticeable part of the air does not go through the radiator, but bypasses it from the sides, and the efficiency of the system decreases. Further tests will show the need to do this, but for now I won’t.

Specifications
Voltage, V - 12

Current consumption, A, no more than - 8

Rotation speed - 2700

Weight, kg - 1.9

Outer diameter of the impeller, mm - 285

Air capacity, m3/s - 0.54

Pressure, Pa - 90

Advantages of an electric radiator fan over a standard mechanical one
A mechanical fan is driven by a motor and rotates faster or slower as the motor speeds up and slows down. This means that at lower engine speeds the fan also rotates slowly. This is not very useful considering the engine is idling. In addition to this, mechanical fans use engine energy, resulting in reduced power and fuel consumption.

When dismantling the main fan in winter, the electric fan will offer another huge advantage - quickly warming up your car, because... The fan does not turn on until a certain temperature.

Advantages of the UAZ "Autogur73" electric radiator fan
increasing the efficiency of the cooling system without loss of engine power;
reduction in fuel consumption;
increased service life of the car engine;
comfort of use in winter;
ease of installation;
comes with installation kit;
competitive price.
Equipment
electric fan
casing
pipe with sensor (depending on the car model, one of two options for pipes and sensors is used)
fan relay and fuse
electrical blocks with contacts
wiring
Sensor type TM 108. Temperature on. 92 C, shutdown temperature 87 C. Pipeline diameter 36 mm.

Operating principle
A push-type electric fan is installed in front (along the direction of the vehicle) of the radiator in addition to the standard fan located behind the radiator. The electric fan is turned on and off automatically, based on a signal from a sensor installed in the radiator pipeline.

Installation of an additional fan on UAZ 452 doors. 409
Connect the hose from the radiator to the expansion tank.
Unscrew the engine and gearbox protection on the right side for ease of operation.
Unscrew the brake pipe connector from the front crossmember.
Disconnect the oil hoses from the oil rodator.
Unscrew the oil cooler.
Unscrew the transition corners from the cooling radiator on the left and right.
Buy 8 bolts 8x20.
Buy 2 new oil hoses 10-15 cm longer, or clamps, connectors, cut 50 cm of oil-resistant hose locally and connect.
Install the additional fan, the oil cooler on its casing and the rest in reverse order.

Connection: mechanics

I've been wanting to install electric fans for a long time and finally got around to it. We purchased two LSA electric fans from a VAZ classic and two diffusers from a VAZ-2108/2115.

I drained the antifreeze and removed the radiator, because... There was no other UAZ radiator at hand...

We dismantle the standard meat grinder impeller. We place thick washers under the bolts so that they do not touch the pump body

Trying on a radiator. The naked eye can see that there is too much here

Circled in red is what is cut off without hesitation.

Then we begin to cut only thoughtfully and after careful calculations.
To fasten the diffusers together, we cut off the excess right along the edge of the diffuser. There is no point in cutting anymore, because... The fan in the diffuser fits very tightly, from the edge of the blades to the diffuser wall about 3 mm. I screwed the diffusers together with M8 bolts, which fit very well into the standard holes.

In photo 3, you can clearly see that the diffusers protrude beyond the radiator. So, the outer parts need to be cut directly at the end of the circle and perpendicular to the upper and lower radiator tanks. The choice of grinder and welding fell due to the fact that the diffusers are stamped in three planes. It is almost impossible to bend the edge of the diffuser into a corner for attaching to the radiator without damaging the diffuser itself.
Therefore, just “cut”. Having cut off the excess and bent it as needed (from the cut we make a corner with one shelf 20 mm), the other shelf follows the curves of the diffuser, because and is cut off from him. Cook carefully and use oven mitts, because... metal - foil. We clean the seams and install fans to make sure that the diffusers are not damaged during welding.

You can see how the welded edge of the diffuser is bent. I bent the radiator spacers a little so that they do not touch the diffuser

You can see how the welded edge of the diffuser is bent.

The distance from the pump to the diffusers is about 10-15 mm. The coupling bolt between the diffusers is visible. Tightened it with an M5 screw through the bushing

"Volgovskaya"; pipe in the upper pipe with sensor TM-108 at 92-87 degrees

The sensor is in the down tube at 87-82 degrees. The "Volgov" pipe does not fit in diameter, because... dangles in the pipe like a pencil in a glass. I welded the nut, coated the weld seam with additional sealant

Bend the radiator strut so that it does not touch the diffuser

I haven't connected the electrical yet.

According to my idea, each fan will be controlled by its own relay and triggered by its own sensor.
Those. The operating algorithm, as planned, is as follows: if the coolant coming out of the engine is too hot, a temperature sensor of 92-87 degrees C is triggered and one electric fan is turned on. If there is not enough cooling in the radiator and the second sensor at the radiator outlet is triggered at a temperature of 87-82 degrees C. then the second electric fan turns on.

Purchased:
electric radiator fans 2103-08 LSA 2 pcs.
Diffusers 2108-2115 2 pcs.
"Volgovskaya" pipe in the upper pipe 1 pc.
Sensors TM-108 2 pcs. - 70 UAH.
Electric fan relays and connectors 2 pcs.
Clamps D40-60 mm 2 pcs.

Connection: electrical

Yesterday I connected the electric fans according to the diagram:

Each fan is connected according to this diagram.

I used a 5-pin relay 75.3777. One leg in the chain is not used.

I closed contacts 30 and 86 with each other in a loop. In front of the loop I hooked up this 20 amp fuse

I control the fans from the cabin with the following toggle switch:

I first unscrewed the screws from the toggle switch. The “mother” connectors fit onto the toggle switch contacts like native ones.

Last night, while testing, I noticed the following:
1. The engine warms up almost twice as fast.
2. While waiting to check the work done, I even stuck neutral in the transfer case and gear in the gearbox to create a load. Just in case, a 5-liter carbon dioxide fire extinguisher was taken out of the trunk and stood “on guard” (otherwise who the hell knows what I did with the wires).
3. When the temperature according to the sensor in the cabin was reached, the right fan turned on (which is paired with the sensor at 92-87 degrees) and after one and a half to two (!) minutes it turned off. The temperature on the gauge in the cabin dropped almost before our eyes. Those. on the highway the fans will be silent, and will operate (the first one) only in populated areas at traffic lights. In any case, I think so...
4. To turn on the second fan automatically, you probably need to crawl through soggy plowed land and pull some kind of ballast behind you...

I sat with a soldering iron for two days and soldered wires to the contacts, but then I gave up on this thankless task, didn’t get greedy, went to the car market and bought a crimp for car terminals. I crimped the entire circuit in one evening, within three hours...

Here is an example of an indication of the operation of electric fans:

Almost at the very end of the video, first one yellow warning light on the dashboard lights up, then the second. Which indicates that one or another electric fan is on...

Purchased:
crimping - 85 UAH. (in the future, it will be useful on the farm)
fuses (2 pcs) - 14 UAH.
connectors "mass" (round) and "female" 20 pcs. -10 UAH.
wire with a cross section of 2.5 square 10 meters - 100 UAH.
relay 75.3777 with connectors 2 pcs. - 40 UAH
three-position toggle switch - 12 UAH.
signal lamps with sockets 2 pcs - 20 UAH

https://www.drive2.ru/l/1544611/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/1562397/

The natural air flow when the car is moving is not enough to cool the engine. The fan, which is installed in front of the radiator, is designed to strengthen and direct it. This greatly increases the efficiency of heat removal. Previously, this unit was driven only by a running motor through a belt pulley.

Nowadays, more modern drives are used for this - electric motors and fluid couplings. They allow you to control the airflow regardless of the engine operating mode. Signs of malfunction of this unit are:

Accelerated engine overheating;

Extraneous noise and vibration;

Inability to start the engine.

In addition to the type of drive, they can differ in the number and material of the blades, the number of which ranges from four to twelve, and they are made of metals and plastic. You can buy all types of impellers from us to replace damaged parts.

Our offers

The cooling systems of cars at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant differ, including in the number of components that require forced heat removal. Our catalog includes the following types of fans:

Radiators for UAZ Patriot, Hunter, UAZ-469 and others;

Injection;

Carburetor;

With mechanical, hydromechanical and electric drive.

Products with a fluid coupling are more expensive than others, but they are ideal for the most difficult operating conditions. We also offer to buy spare parts and accessories for their repair and maintenance. These are belts, drive rollers, pulleys, etc.

Our prices for goods for the repair and maintenance of Ulyanovsk cars are unbeatable. We offer them with delivery to anywhere in Russia and the CIS countries. Forms of payment – cash and non-cash payments. It is possible to supply goods on credit.

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