Laid the beginning of a whole family of cars. Some of them are still in production today. This model range is characterized by high reliability and relative simplicity of execution, which is one of the main reasons for the high popularity of the car. However, long-term operation has revealed a number of significant shortcomings. One of them is the cooling system.
It works great on a relatively new car, however, as soon as the service life exceeds 10 years, malfunctions appear in its operation. They ultimately manifest themselves in the same way. The arrow of the device indicating the temperature invariably creeps up. There may be several reasons why the VAZ 2110 engine heats up, and this problem requires detailed consideration.
Car cooling systemThe cooling system is made according to the classical design. The coolant circulates in large and small circles. Its transition from one circle to another is carried out automatically using a thermostat. The antifreeze is cooled in a radiator, which is made of aluminum for better heat transfer.
To prevent engine overheating during long-term operation in low gears, the car is equipped with a fan that turns on automatically when the temperature reaches a certain value. The main causes of malfunction of the VAZ 2110 car:
- thermostat failure;
- the fan does not work;
- airlock;
- coolant level is low;
- dirty engine surface.
Any of these reasons may cause the engine to become very hot. As a result, the machine will lose a significant part of its power.
Thermostat and fan malfunctionsA symptom of a faulty thermostat is a sudden increase in temperature for no apparent reason. That is, the car engine was operating in normal mode, there was no long standing in traffic jams or driving in first gear, and the instrument needle was close to the critical mark. Why is this happening? The fact is that, as a rule, the thermostat gets stuck in the closed position.
In this case, the liquid continues to circulate bypassing the radiator, which is not enough to cool the engine. Determining whether the thermostat is really at fault is very simple. It is necessary to warm up the engine to a temperature of 90 °C. Now you should evaluate the temperature of the pipe that goes to the radiator. If it is cold, the thermostat must be replaced.
Unlike the previous case, engine overheating is preceded by prolonged operation in low gears. In this mode, the VAZ 2110 radiator does not have sufficient airflow and when the temperature reaches 95 ° C, a sensor is triggered that turns on the fan. If this does not happen, engine overheating is inevitable. Such damage is complicated by the fact that faults, in addition to the fan itself, can occur in its power supply circuit.
As a special case, a blown fuse should be mentioned. 
If the fan motor starts to spin when the contacts are closed, the sensor is faulty. If not, then the problem may be in the fuse and you need to check it. If it is in good working order, further repairs require skills and the presence of a special device, so it is better to contact a specialist.
Coolant overheat alarm
Most cars are equipped with a temperature sensor that measures the operating temperature of the engine. If the overheat warning light comes on while driving (or the temperature gauge goes into the red hot zone), the coolant temperature is between 120°C and 126°C. This temperature still remains below the boiling point of the coolant (provided that the cooling system and the radiator seal are in good condition). If the coolant overheat warning light comes on, do the following:
Step 1. Turn off the interior air conditioning and turn on the interior heater. This will help remove excess heat from the engine faster. Set the fan to maximum rotation speed.
Step 2: If possible, turn off the engine and allow it to cool (this may take more than an hour).
Step 3. Do not under any circumstances attempt to remove the radiator seal until the engine has cooled down.
Step 4: If the overheat warning light is on, do not continue driving, otherwise the engine may be seriously damaged.
Step 5. If the engine does not glow with heat and is not clearly overheated, then the problem may be due to a malfunction of the temperature sensor or temperature indicator. Then you can continue driving, but to be on the safe side, you need to stop from time to time to check for signs of engine overheating and for signs of coolant leakage.
COMMON CAUSES OF ENGINE OVERHEATING
Low coolant level.
Clogged, dirty or blocked radiator.
Faulty fan clutch or faulty electric fan.
Incorrectly set ignition timing.
Low oil level in the engine lubrication system.
Broken fan drive belt.
Faulty radiator seal.
Brakes sticking.
Coolant freezing (in frosty weather).
Faulty thermostat.
Faulty cooling water pump
(slippage of the impeller on the internal shaft of the pump).
Experience exchange
The owner complained that his car's engine overheated, but this only happened when he was driving on the freeway at high speeds. The car was equipped with an engine that worked flawlessly when driving in the city cycle.
The mechanic flushed the cooling system and replaced the radiator seal and water pump, believing that the cause of the overheating was a decrease in coolant flow in the cooling system. During further inspection, it was revealed that when the engine is cranked by the starter with the spark plugs unscrewed, coolant sprays out of one of the cylinders. The problem was resolved after the cylinder head gasket was replaced. Obviously, the leak caused by a defective gasket was not large enough to cause engine malfunction - as long as the speed and load on the engine did not increase so much that the resulting increase in coolant leakage and heat generation did not lead to a rapid increase in temperature.
The mechanic also replaced the oxygen (0 2) sensor, because the coolant contains organosilicon compounds and silicates, which, if they get on this sensor, usually poison it. Sensor degradation may have contributed to this problem.
Rice. 7.42. In the mid-1980s, many manufacturers began using serpentine belt drives (a belt with longitudinal V-shaped ribs instead of transverse teeth). Older water pumps will fit the engine, but they may turn in the opposite direction than they should. This may cause the engine to overheat after replacing the pump. If you install the wrong type of fan, then the angle of attack of its blades will not correspond to that required to create the necessary air flow through the radiator
For the correct operation of the cooling system, the condition and correct installation of the drive belt is of great importance. The tension of the drive belt has a decisive influence not only on the operating mode of the water pump, but also on the alternator, air conditioning compressor and other belt-driven units. When replacing a belt or adjusting its tension, be sure to measure the belt tension using a belt tension meter to ensure that it is exactly as required.
Every car owner was faced with the fact that the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine began to heat up. If you look at the dashboard indicator, the arrow tends to the red zone, and liquid boils in the expansion tank - this means that there is a malfunction in the cooling system.
The temperature indicator needle has entered the red zone, which means the engine is overheating
Many car enthusiasts remember the reasons for the effect on old Zhiguli cars. On 16-valve engines, the reasons for this effect are almost the same. Let's consider what reasons may cause the main power unit to begin to overheat:
- The system is clogged.
- Thermostat stuck.
- Damage to the pump. Replace the pump. .
- Radiator.
- Cooling sensor malfunction.
- The cooling fan does not work (see “)”.
All these problems can cause the engine to overheat.
Elimination methodsTo eliminate the causes of engine heating, it is necessary to establish the epicenter of the effect. To do this, it is worth checking each node sequentially. After identifying the problem, it is worth finding the exact cause and eliminating it. So, let's consider the sequence of actions.
Engine cooling system diagram
Radiator and pipesOne of the reasons for engine overheating may be that the radiator and pipes become clogged, which affects the circulation of fluid in the system, and can also lead to cracks in the pipes and breakdown of the radiator, which will lead to leakage of coolant.
If there is insufficient coolant in the system, the power unit will heat up faster and take a long time to cool down, and the cooling fan will run almost continuously.
Radiator and cooling system pipes
The method for solving the problem is quite simple - dismantling the radiator from the system and cleaning it both outside and inside.
The second stage will be to inspect the pipes for leaks and replace worn-out products. As practice shows, many motorists install kit kits (tuning versions) of the radiator and pipes to extend the service life of the cooling system.
Pump (water pump)One of the main reasons for overheating is that there is backlash in the water pump. It is quite easy to determine this malfunction, because a corresponding howl appears in the pump area. Also, a sign of a malfunction may be that liquid begins to leak from the pump shaft. The problem can be fixed quite easily by replacing the water pump.
Engine mounted water pump
ThermostatThe thermostat is the first place to look for a problem.
So, when the thermostat is stuck on a small circle, the engine heats up more often than usual, even when driving on the highway, where there is enough oncoming air flow for the system to have time to cool itself.
Thermostat removed from the engine
There is one caveat when the thermostat should not be changed - if it fails in winter. Then, additional cooling is provided by sub-zero temperatures. Of course, if the thermostat fails in the summer, then to prevent overheating of the motor, it must be replaced as soon as possible.
Cooling sensorThe cooling temperature sensor is a harmless breakdown that can lead to the indicator on the instrument panel showing incorrect data, so the driver will not even know that the engine has overheated until it boils on the road.
Typically, this malfunction is accompanied by many associated factors, so it is quite difficult to miss it. There is only one solution to the problem - replacing the cooling system sensor and resetting errors that occurred in the ECU.
Cooling sensor
FanThe last cause of overheating, especially in the summer, is the cooling system fan.
The fan under the hood is indicated by an arrow
So, a breakdown of this unit can lead to the engine overheating, and.
In this case, the consequences can be very diverse, well, you need to check the fan for serviceability, as well as the sensor for turning it on - that’s for sure. This part fails quite rarely, and therefore the reason for the failure may be a simple fuse or a wiring fault, which can be easily fixed.
Consequences of untimely elimination of defectsNot all drivers realize what consequences can be caused by an engine overheating, and continue to drive with a constantly running fan or frequent overheating.
So, the consequences of strong engine heating are divided into 3 stages, which are worth considering separately.
Slight overheatingIf the engine overheats for up to 10 minutes, the consequences may be minor. Thus, cracks will appear in the pipes of the cooling system, and the valve and camshaft seals will melt. Also, the valves will burn out, and oil will enter the combustion chambers, which will be marked by the release of black smoke from the exhaust system.
Consequences of mild overheating, namely burnout of valves
Significant overheatingWith significant overheating, deformation occurs, or rather deflection of the cylinder head. To eliminate these consequences, you will have to dismantle the cylinder head and submit it for surface grinding. Thus, it turns out that the block head is subject to major repairs.
Severe overheatingWith severe overheating, the walls of the cylinder block become deformed and burn out, causing melting of the piston group, deformation of the connecting rods, or even breakage of the crankshaft. Thus, the engine cannot be repaired, since usually the walls of the power unit collapse and their restoration is impossible.
conclusionsThe causes of heating and overheating of a 16-valve engine have been identified and methods of elimination have been discussed. Thus, untimely repair of this unit can lead to the fact that the engine will finally fail and will need to be replaced. Therefore, if the first signs appear that the cooling system has failed, it is necessary to find and eliminate the cause, since a replacement will be much more expensive.
Coolant overheat alarm
Most cars are equipped with a temperature sensor that measures the operating temperature of the engine. If the overheat warning light comes on while driving (or the temperature gauge goes into the red hot zone), the coolant temperature is between 120°C and 126°C. This temperature still remains below the boiling point of the coolant (provided that the cooling system and the radiator seal are in good condition). If the coolant overheat warning light comes on, do the following:
Step 1. Turn off the interior air conditioning and turn on the interior heater. This will help remove excess heat from the engine faster. Set the fan to maximum rotation speed.
Step 2: If possible, turn off the engine and allow it to cool (this may take more than an hour).
Step 3. Do not under any circumstances attempt to remove the radiator seal until the engine has cooled down.
Step 4: If the overheat warning light is on, do not continue driving, otherwise the engine may be seriously damaged.
Step 5. If the engine does not glow with heat and is not clearly overheated, then the problem may be due to a malfunction of the temperature sensor or temperature indicator. Then you can continue driving, but to be on the safe side, you need to stop from time to time to check for signs of engine overheating and for signs of coolant leakage.
COMMON CAUSES OF ENGINE OVERHEATING
Low coolant level.
Clogged, dirty or blocked radiator.
Faulty fan clutch or faulty electric fan.
Incorrectly set ignition timing.
Low oil level in the engine lubrication system.
Broken fan drive belt.
Faulty radiator seal.
Coolant freezing (in frosty weather).
Faulty cooling water pump
(slippage of the impeller on the internal shaft of the pump).
The owner complained that his car's engine overheated, but this only happened when he was driving on the freeway at high speeds. The car was equipped with an engine that worked flawlessly when driving in the city cycle.
The mechanic flushed the cooling system and replaced the radiator seal and water pump, believing that the cause of the overheating was a decrease in coolant flow in the cooling system. During further inspection, it was revealed that when the engine is cranked by the starter with the spark plugs unscrewed, coolant sprays out of one of the cylinders. The problem was resolved after the cylinder head gasket was replaced. Obviously, the leak caused by a defective gasket was not large enough to cause engine malfunction - as long as the speed and load on the engine did not increase so much that the resulting increase in coolant leakage and heat generation did not lead to a rapid increase in temperature.
The mechanic also replaced the oxygen (0 2) sensor, because the coolant contains organosilicon compounds and silicates, which, if they get on this sensor, usually poison it. Sensor degradation may have contributed to this problem.
Rice. 7.42. In the mid-1980s, many manufacturers began using serpentine belt drives (a belt with longitudinal V-shaped ribs instead of transverse teeth). Older water pumps will fit the engine, but they may turn in the opposite direction than they should. This may cause the engine to overheat after replacing the pump. If you install the wrong type of fan, then the angle of attack of its blades will not correspond to that required to create the necessary air flow through the radiator
For the correct operation of the cooling system, the condition and correct installation of the drive belt is of great importance. The tension of the drive belt has a decisive influence not only on the operating mode of the water pump, but also on the alternator, air conditioning compressor and other belt-driven units. When replacing a belt or adjusting its tension, be sure to measure the belt tension using a belt tension meter to ensure that it is exactly as required.
Materials: http://vaz-rukovodstvo.ru/2110/peregrev-dvigatelya.html
Engine overheating is not uncommon for a car like the VAZ 2110. This problem mainly occurs in cars with high mileage. Although even with relatively new copies, overheating of the motor cannot be ruled out.
Mileage is often the culprit. As the vehicle is used, parts wear out and systems gradually become unusable.
As you know, the VAZ 2110 is equipped with two types of engines - with 8 and 16 valves. There are several main, most common reasons that cause this overheating of power units.
Let's look at each of the reasons and ways to resolve these problems separately.
Tens engine
Low coolant levelCoolant plays a huge role in the operation of the cooling system. A special substance, namely antifreeze or antifreeze, is poured into the expansion tank.
In a normal situation, the level of the coolant solution should be at the level of, or rather the MAX marks on the tank body. This indicates that the container is approximately 50-60 percent full.
If there is no such mark on the tank, refer to the clamp. The liquid should reach its upper edge.
Another reason for engine overheating is a stuck thermostat valve. If it remains in the closed position and does not open, the coolant will move only along a small circuit. As a result, this will lead to strong heating of the power plant. Overheating itself threatens with very, very serious consequences.
Such a malfunction can manifest itself at the most inopportune moment - on the road. You are unlikely to be able to carry out high-quality repairs on the side of the road.. But you can try one method - knock on the thermostat housing. Often this allows you to return the device to its functionality for a while. This way you can get to your own garage or the nearest service station. There the thermostat has already been replaced with a new one. There is no point in repairing it. If he failed once, the situation will certainly repeat itself soon.
Thermostat in the engine
temperature sensorA temperature sensor is required in order to respond to changes in engine heating. When a preset point is reached, the sensor is triggered and turns on the cooling fan.
If this device malfunctions, the power unit overheats because the fan does not activate. Consequently, the temperature does not fall below critical levels, but continues to gradually rise.
If such trouble finds you on the way ( most often the engine overheats when stuck in traffic jams, since the engine is running but there is no flow of cooling oncoming air), try to get out of the jam as quickly as possible and find a free section of the road.
Accelerate during the free stretch and then begin engine braking. This will lower the temperature and prevent overheating. Under no circumstances should you regularly operate your car this way. But this is a great way to get to a garage or auto repair shop, determine the cause of the sensor failure, and then replace it.
Cooling FanThe symptoms of fan malfunctions are similar to a non-working temperature sensor. That is, the engine will heat up, the indicator on the dashboard will be in the red zone.
Again, while on the road, we recommend using the engine braking method. Next, head to the garage. Let the car cool down. In the meantime, go to the store for a new fan. This device for the VAZ 2110 costs about 600 rubles.
Fan problems
Other reasonsThere are other equally popular reasons for engine overheating. Therefore, we invite you to familiarize yourself with all of them using our table.
Coolant level too low
Add coolant to the required level, following the marks or clamp on the expansion tank
The radiator is clogged or blocked
Flush the radiator. If this does not help, the unit must be replaced
The cooling system pump has failed (the impeller slips on its internal shaft)
It's best to replace the pump
The oil level in the lubrication system is critical
Add oil to the required level. If it is old, change the oil
The ignition timing is incorrectly set
Perform torque adjustment
The thermostat has failed
Replace the device with a similar new one
The cooling fan motor has failed
It can be repaired, but it is better to install a new motor
When faced with such a phenomenon as engine overheating, do not rush to send your VAZ 2110 for repair to a car service center. You can find many causes of overheating with your own hands and deal with them yourself. Service station services are not cheap these days, unfortunately.
Click to cancel reply. All about 2109 How to remove and clean the injectors on a VAZ 2109 (injector)? Reasons for engine overheating on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor, injector)It's no secret that the engine is the main unit of the entire car. Your ability to drive a car, consume the optimal amount of fuel, and more depends on its performance. But overheating is a very common situation in which many people make serious mistakes.
Repair of the exhaust manifold on a VAZ 2109 (carburetor)The exhaust manifold is a component of the exhaust system that carries out the process of removing exhaust gases from the cylinders of the power unit into the exhaust pipe.
Materials: http://luxvaz.ru/vaz-2110/153-greetsya-dvigatel.html
The message has been edited. ich: 04.10.2006 - 22:10
Here everything is clear: either there is or not, if there are no or few shares.
On a hot engine, touch the temperature of the radiator with your hand; if it is cold, change the thermostat. If it’s hot, touch the inlet and outlet hoses and swing them like a pear.
There is a thin hose in the expansion tank; when you press on the gas, antifreeze should pour out of it (quite a lot) into the tank, if this does not happen when you replace the pump.
ZY First of all, change the temperature sensors (there are 2 of them), you will buy them at Automobiles on Ostrovsky in the “imported spare parts for our brands” department. I had a problem with one of the sensors.
So in my opinion it works correctly for you!!!
You can also look at what color your antifreeze is, if there is a lot of rust in it, then you need to wash it, otherwise there will be problems, perhaps there already are!!!
There are special products for flushing the cooling system.
If necessary, I will explain. Write in PM!
The car is 5 years old, everything was OK and suddenly it began to overheat. It gets to the point where I’m driving 90-100 and the temperature is about 110 degrees and the fan is running.
After the thermostat, all pipes are hot.
Should I change the thermostat anyway?
Post edited by miracle: 05/17/2007 - 11:15
Yes, change it. It is stuck half open. There is simply not enough circulation through the radiator.
Everything will pour out of your head.
The pump pumps (antifreeze comes from the steam pipes)
And maybe someone else has a picture of the thermostat assembly 21082-1306010
Change the coolant at the same time
If it’s an injector, then you can use the hardware to lower the temperature on the fan.
added at 1179475829
Attached imagesPost edited by miracle: 05/18/2007 - 16:07
Up to 95 degrees, pipe G is hot. X-cold. All other pipes are hot. After 95 degrees, pipe X becomes hot too.
How did you determine at what temperature the thermostat valve opens? The manual says that the valve should open when the coolant temperature is between 87-92 degrees. Therefore, in this case, it depends on the accuracy of your measurements whether you need to dig further into the thermostat, or whether it is ok.
Materials: http://teron.ru/index.php?showtopic=92066
Daily checks and troubleshooting
Operating a car in winter
A trip to the service station
Operation and Maintenance Instructions
Warnings and safety rules when working on a vehicle
Basic tools, measuring instruments and methods of working with them
Engine and its systems
Transmission
Chassis
Steering
Brake system
Body
Interior ventilation and heating system
Car electrical equipment
Fault codes
Electrical circuits
INTRODUCTION
In 1996, production of a new family of front-wheel drive VAZ-2110 cars began. It is noteworthy that this is the only family of VAZ cars that did not receive a name, and therefore is sold under the factory index (even for the foreign market the model is simply called LADA 110). The family includes modifications in sedan (VAZ-2110, LADA 110), station wagon (VAZ-2111, LADA 111) and hatchback (five-door - VAZ-2112, LADA 112; or three-door - BA3-21123). In addition, there are various small-scale options, for example, the extended VAZ-21108 “Premier” or the VAZ-21104M - a sedan with different wings, hood, bumpers, and original door trim.
The new family was distinguished by good aerodynamics and original exterior and interior design. For the manufacture of body parts that are most susceptible to corrosion, galvanized metal is used, and fixed windows (windshield, rear and side) are glued into the body.
Even sedans have a very spacious luggage compartment for their class, and hatchbacks and station wagons, in which the rear seat backs can be folded, can even be used to transport fairly large cargo, for example, a refrigerator.
Initially, only short-stroke carburetor 1.5-liter VAZ21083 engines with a power of 69 hp were installed on the “Ten”. s., however, quite soon this power unit gave way to a new generation of engines with distributed fuel injection and electronic control. New engines of 1.5 and 1.6 liters can have either two or four valves per cylinder, which affects their traction and economical qualities.
This manual discusses the sixteen-valve VAZ-2112 (1.5L) and VAZ-21124 (1.6L) electronically controlled Bosch, “January” or GM engines currently installed on all models of the family, however, the description given is also fully suitable for the repair of eight-valve engines installed previously.
All engines are coupled with five-speed manual transmissions.
In the basic configuration, cars of the “tenth” family can boast of a tweed interior, an immobilizer, central locking, electric windows for the front doors and athermal windows. More expensive trim levels are equipped with heated front seats, fog lights, an on-board computer, a velor interior (which some dealers call velvet) and alloy wheels. The list of equipment that can be installed upon request is completely unlimited: a set of plastic body kits, chrome door handles, a modified instrument panel, air conditioning, etc.
The “Ten” can no longer be called a new product, but acceptable maintainability, as well as low prices and availability of spare parts still make this car one of the most popular among buyers. Even after the production of the “tenth” family at the AVTOVAZ plant in Tolyatti was discontinued in 2007, production of the models resumed in Ukraine at the Bogdan Corporation automobile plant.
Like the VAZ, the Bogdan 2110 is well suited for long journeys on domestic roads - this is facilitated by good dynamic performance, comfortable suspension and low fuel consumption.
The factory warranty for cars of the “tenth” family is 35 thousand km or 2 years, whichever comes first. Many official dealers also provide their own, longer warranty, while reducing service intervals by one and a half to two times.
This manual provides recommendations for the repair and operation of VAZ/Bogdan 2110/2111/2112 cars with injection eight- or sixteen-valve engines of 1.5 and 1.6 liters.
Note
Fuel consumption data is provided for reference and is averaged for different body types.
The manual's recommendations can also be used to repair eight-valve engines.
2. Engine overheating
As a rule, under normal vehicle operating conditions, the coolant temperature gauge needle is constantly in the middle zone of the scale. The engine temperature may increase when the vehicle is driven uphill for a long time, especially in hot weather. If the arrow of the coolant temperature gauge is in the critical zone, then it is necessary to find out the reason for the engine overheating.
If you continue to drive your vehicle while the coolant temperature gauge is in the critical zone, the engine may suffer serious damage and failure.
ATTENTION
Steam and splashes of boiling coolant that escape under pressure from the radiator cap of an overheated engine can cause severe burns. Do not lift the hood if steam is coming from under it.
1. Turn on the hazard warning lights and, pressing the clutch pedal, drive the car to the side of the road, and then stop in a safe place. Move the gearshift lever to neutral and apply the parking brake. Turn off all auxiliary electrical equipment.
2. If the temperature gauge needle is in the critical zone, but no steam is coming from under the hood, you should fully open the air flow control air damper and set the heater to maximum. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Observe the behavior of the coolant temperature gauge needle. If overheating was caused by increased load on the engine (for example, while climbing a long, steep climb on a hot day), then the engine temperature should begin to decrease almost immediately. In this case, it is necessary to cool the engine at idle speed. After the engine temperature has normalized, when the temperature gauge needle returns to the middle zone of the scale, you can continue driving the car.
ATTENTION
If steam is not coming from under the hood and hot coolant is not flowing onto the road, do not stop the engine immediately.
3. If steam comes from under the hood or if hot coolant flows onto the road, this is a sign of depressurization of the cooling system, for example, due to a burst or slipped hose. The engine must be turned off immediately. It should be noted that an overheated engine often cannot stop immediately after the ignition is turned off, continuing to operate due to the so-called pseudo-heat ignition. In order to forcefully stop the engine, you need to smoothly depress the accelerator pedal all the way or, having engaged any gear with the clutch depressed, press the brake and release the clutch.
4. Wait until steam emissions or fluid leakage stop, and then open the hood.
5. Check for obvious reasons for loss of coolant, such as cracks in the walls of the hoses or leaking pipe connections. Since all parts of the engine and cooling system are at high temperatures, you should be careful not to get burned. If you discover a coolant leak, you must repair the problem and restore the cooling system's seal before continuing to drive the vehicle. A broken hose can be temporarily repaired using duct tape. Damage to the radiator, thermostat or heater is quite difficult to repair on site, so in order to get to the nearest service station, it is recommended to add water to the cooling system and, while driving, carefully monitor the temperature gauge, stopping periodically to allow the engine to cool and restore liquid level in the cooling system.
ATTENTION
Do not add cold water to a hot engine as this may cause engine damage. Allow the engine to cool completely with the hood open for at least half an hour.
Do not allow the engine to run for a long time using clean water instead of coolant (a mixture of antifreeze and distilled water), as this will lead to the formation of scale in the cooling system, as a result of which its cooling capacity will decrease and the engine life will be shortened.
6. The cause of engine overheating may be a failed thermostat. To check it, it is necessary to carefully check the temperature of the upper and lower radiator hoses by touch while the engine is still hot. If the lower hose is cold, the thermostat is faulty, as a result of which coolant cannot circulate through the radiator. In this case, you need to let the engine cool completely and then continue driving to the nearest service station, carefully monitoring the temperature gauge and stopping periodically to allow the engine to cool.
7. If the thermostat is normal and the engine is still not cool, you need to turn on the ignition and make sure that the radiator fan is rotating. Check the serviceability of the radiator fan switch sensor. To do this, disconnect the connector from the sensor installed on the thermostat housing and connect the connector leads together, then turn on the ignition.
8. If the fan does not turn on after closing the terminals, the cause of the malfunction may be a blown fuse, a failed relay, or a burnt-out electric motor. Check the condition of the appropriate fuse (see the “Fuses” section later in this chapter) and, if necessary, replace it with a new one of the appropriate rating.
9. To check the operation of the fan electric motor, it is necessary to use two additional wires, which must be connected first to the electric motor connector, and then directly to the battery terminals, observing the polarity. If the electric motor starts working, it is necessary to check the electrical wiring and the radiator fan relay using additional equipment.
ATTENTION
Wires must be insulated and securely fastened. Do not allow wires to short circuit with each other!
10. If no coolant leaks were found, check its level in the expansion tank of the cooling system.
ATTENTION
Never open the expansion tank cap until the engine has cooled completely. Because the hot liquid is under pressure, it may splash out or pressurized steam may escape from the cap, which can cause serious burns.
11. If the expansion tank is empty, you may need to add coolant. Wear protective gloves or cover the lid with a large piece of thick cloth. Carefully turn the cap counterclockwise until you feel it stop. When turning the lid, do not press on it from above. After the pressure in the cooling system is equal to atmospheric pressure, you should additionally turn the cap counterclockwise. Remove the cover.
12.Add coolant. As mentioned above, if the recommended brand of coolant is not available, you can add clean water to the radiator. As soon as possible, it is necessary to completely drain the coolant diluted with water from the engine cooling system and replace it with a conditioning fluid of the recommended brand.
13. Close the lid tightly. Start the engine and observe the behavior of the coolant temperature gauge needle. If the needle rises to the red zone again, the engine needs repair. The vehicle should be towed to a service station.
14. If the engine temperature has returned to normal, you need to check the coolant level in the expansion tank. If necessary, add coolant to the tank and bring its level to the “MAX” mark. Then close the expansion tank cap tightly.
