In recent years, we have become accustomed to seeing it on almost every motorcycle. Now cars without trunks, wind and mud shields, and protective arches seem somehow naked. Unfortunately, our industry produces little tourist equipment for motorcycles, and its range is limited, and motorcycle tourists are forced to make it themselves, based on their capabilities and skills.
In this chapter we will talk about the requirements for motorcycle equipment and show with specific examples how best to make it.
Luggage racks
The main touring equipment of a motorcycle is luggage racks. They can be installed behind the passenger's seat, on the sides of the rear wheel, on the gas tank, in some cases on the front fender of the motorcycle, and if there are protective bars - in the form of pencil cases on the bars. The purpose of this placement is to distribute the load more evenly throughout the motorcycle. By the way, we want to warn you - do not expect to have a good trip on a motorcycle with a backpack on your shoulders: it is inconvenient and tiring.
The rear trunk carries most of the load, and when designing it, special attention must be paid to its strength and rigid connection with the motorcycle frame. But this does not mean that the trunk should be made of thick-walled tubes or steel rods. The strength and load-carrying capacity of the structure should be combined with its lightness and thoughtful arrangement of attachment points, without being carried away by the width of the trunk and its large extension beyond the rear axle. To reduce the center of gravity, it is advisable to place the loading platform as low as possible.
The commonly used mounting points for the rack (two upper ones on the suspension and two lower ones on the passenger footpegs) do not connect it rigidly enough to the motorcycle frame. Therefore, the cargo area must be additionally connected with spacers to the rear
fender or seat frame, and tie the struts with a shackle, which is secured under the license plate bolt. The structural elements of the trunk should not interfere with the operation of the rear suspension, nor should they interfere with the removal of the wheel and the adjustment of the chain.
It is best if the rear rack provides cargo placement both behind the passenger seat and on the sides of the rear wheel. Structurally, this can be solved in different ways. For example, to some trunks that have a rear cargo area, side plates are also attached to install hanging, easily removable bags on them, while other trunks are equipped with side cargo areas for securing small suitcases or backpacks.
When choosing a design, preference should be given to a trunk with easily removable bags. Firstly, hanging bags provide easy access to the rear wheel, do not interfere with chain adjustment and are convenient in parking lots, as they can be quickly removed and taken with you. Secondly, after traveling they can be replaced with smaller bags for everyday use. These bags are always useful on a motorcycle. After all, it is much more convenient to simply put small things in a bag than to rack your brains about how to secure them on the trunk, or, even worse, carry them in your pocket or in your bosom.
As an example of a design that meets the listed requirements, we offer a welded trunk developed by the authors for Java motorcycles (Fig. 7). It has been in use for many years and has successfully withstood the durability tests of long journeys over various roads.
Rice. 7. Rear trunk with bags for everyday use.
The manufacturing technology and assembly of trunk elements is as follows (Fig. 8). Made from seamless steel tubes with a diameter of 12? 1 or 12? I.5 mm, base blanks 1 (2 pcs.), crossbars 2 (3 pcs.) and struts 3 (2 pcs.) are made. Rear inserts 4 (2 pcs.) are bent from rods of the same diameter (elements - base blanks, struts and inserts - can be replaced with solid tubes bent along the radius of the inserts). The base blanks and struts with the upper 5 (2 pcs.) and lower 6 (2 pcs.) earrings welded to them are fixed on the motorcycle, and the rear suspension mounting bolts are replaced with special bolts 9 (2 pcs.). Having connected the base and struts with rear inserts, weld the crossbars 2 and spacers onto the wing 7 (2 pcs.), having previously protected the rear wing with a sheet of metal or asbestos. Then the trunk is removed, the lower and side brackets for belts 8 (6 pcs.), ears 10 (6 pcs.) for the side plates are welded, and the joints of the elements are finally welded. Using a motorcycle as a slipway eliminates possible distortion of the trunk during welding and ensures that the seats match.
Rice. 8. Rear trunk: a - assembled (side and top view); b - insert (blank); c - upper earring; g - lower earring;
d - rear suspension upper mounting bolt 
Side plates 1 (2 pcs.), on which easily removable bags will be installed, are cut from a steel sheet 2 mm thick (Fig. 9). Each plate has one elliptical and four shaped grooves that ensure the movement of bag fastening elements. (You can make a large cutout in the middle of the plate to make it lighter.) Naturally, the same slots should be used to install mounted touring bags and bags for everyday riding, and the dimensions of the plates should match those of smaller bags. Each plate is secured to the trunk with bolts at three points. Additionally, they are connected to the tool and battery boxes by right 2 and left 3 brackets that go around the rear shock absorbers on the inside. In the boxes to secure the bracket, two holes are drilled for bolts.
Rice. 9. Trunk side plate for installing easily removable bags, right and left (a); right bracket for attaching the plate to the tool box (b); left bracket for fastening the plate to the battery box (c); fungus (g); hairpin (d); fixing bracket (e) 
In this design, as well as in others where bags are used, we recommend using canvas sports backpacks with side lacing. Thanks to the lacing, their capacity is adjustable, which is convenient when traveling. It is useful to additionally stitch the seams of the backpacks with harsh threads, and remove the shoulder straps and strengthen the bottom and front wall with them. The back wall also needs to be strengthened - a sheet of duralumin 1-1.5 mm thick must be riveted.
Instead of sports backpacks, you can use hunting bags or made shopping bags. In any case, the seams must be duplicated and the back wall made rigid. To prevent the bottom of the bag from sagging while moving, attach to it
belt. Subsequently, when things are packed in the bag, pull the belt up and secure it in the buckle located under the passenger’s saddle or in the area of the rear handle of the motorcycle.
A useful addition to the bag will be a strap carrying handle. The elements of easily removable fastening of each bag are four mushrooms 4 and one pin 5, which are screwed with nuts to the rear wall. During hanging
bags, these parts fit into the grooves of the trunk plate, and then the bag is moved down. To fix the bag in the lower position, a bracket 6 is provided. When put on a pin, its curved part rests against the side plate and prevents the bag from moving upward. The bracket is secured with a wing or nut.
Racks with side cargo areas look different; They are carried out either with a rear cargo platform or without it. An example of a trunk without a rear platform is the design developed at the Java plant (Fig. 10, 11). It consists of two assembled frames, upper and lower (left and right) struts, and spacers. These parts are connected to each other using bolts.
Rice. 10. Trunk with side cargo areas. 
Rice. 11. Trunk frame (a); lower strut (b); upper strut (c); spacer (g) 
Both trunk frames 1 and their cross members 2 are made of seamless steel tubes with a diameter of 10×1.5 mm; reinforcements 3 and lining 4 are made of steel strip 3 mm thick. The lower left strut consists of a strut 5 made of a tube with a diameter of 16×2 mm, a lining 6 and a support 7 made of a steel sheet 3 mm thick. The lower right strut is a mirror image of the lower left strut. The upper left strut consists of a strut 8, made of a tube with a diameter of 12×1.5 mm, and an overlay 9, made of the same material as similar parts. The top right brace is also a mirror image of the left one. And finally, for spacer 10 a tube with a diameter of
12?1.5 mm.
On motorcycles, the trunk is secured at the top points with bolts that secure the seat frame to the frame, and at the bottom points with bolts from the passenger footrests. A trunk with side cargo areas, also equipped with a rear platform, allows you to carry more luggage compared to the previous design (Fig. 12 and 13).
Rice. 12. Trunk with side and rear cargo areas.
Rice. 13. Drawing of the trunk with side and rear cargo areas. 
A typical design of such a trunk was made by motorcycle tourist E. Kustarev, using seamless steel tubes with a diameter of 14×1 mm, and sheet steel 2 mm thick for the linings for attaching the trunk to the motorcycle. The main parts of the trunk are connected to each other with bolts. Note that these two racks create certain inconveniences when removing the wheel and adjusting the target. Their insufficiently rigid connection with the motorcycle frame can be eliminated by installing spacers connecting the trunk to the fender in the area of the rear handle.
The Moscow Motorcycle Touring Club has developed a trunk design, characterized in that the upper fastenings (on the bolts of the shock absorbers) are hinged, and the lower ones (at the footrests) are forked (Fig. 14). This allows the rack to be rotated around the top mounting points once the bottom bolts are loosened, allowing easy access to the rear wheel and chain.
Rice. 14. Folding trunk. 
As we have already said, the best mounting points for the rack on a motorcycle are the top bolts of the rear shock absorbers and the bolts of the passenger footpegs. For those who are going to make luggage racks for motorcycles of other brands, a table is provided with the distances between these points. We also recommend that owners of Voskhod and M-105 motorcycles equip their cars with more fundamental luggage racks, since branded ones are of little satisfaction to tourists in terms of carrying capacity and capacity.
Of course, it is not always possible to make a rear trunk with hanging bags or side cargo areas. Sometimes you have to be content with a simpler design that does not require welding. In such cases, you can limit yourself to installing easily removable bags (Fig. 15, 16). They are hung on the side plates, which, in turn, need to be attached to the seat frame, rear fender and connected with brackets to the tool and battery boxes.
Rice. 15. Easily removable bags on the side plates. 
Rice. 16. Side plate and bag fastening elements 
The brackets are located at such a height that they do not limit the maximum travel of the rear fork and chain guard. If the trip will take place without a passenger, another way of stowing luggage is possible. In this case, a motor backpack is put on the back of the saddle-cushion (Fig. 17).
It’s easy to sew it yourself or order it from a workshop that makes car seat covers. They sew a motor backpack from leatherette or thick tarpaulin, and put it on the saddle and tighten it with straps at the bottom. The backpack is roomy and can be easily removed.
Rice. 17. Motor backpack. 
So far we have been talking about structures for placing cargo on the rear of the motorcycle. For things that need to be under
hand, it is useful to have a small trunk on the gas tank (Fig. 18). It can also be useful for transporting photo and film cameras,
transistor radio and other fragile items. When designing a trunk on a gas tank, it is necessary to provide for freedom to control the motorcycle, ease of entry for the driver and refueling with gasoline.
In the given design, the base of the trunk is two tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm, welded at the upper ends I; clamp covering the neck of the tank. The lower ends of the tubes have ears through which a bolt is passed to secure the tank.
on the frame (the gap between the tubes and the tank is about 2 mm). The clamp is made of 2 mm steel. Its outer diameter
8-10 mm more internal. A sleeve and a nut are welded to the ends of the clamp, into which the lag screw is screwed (Fig. 19). The connection points of the clamp with other parts should not interfere with closing the gas tank cap. A metal basket is welded to the tubes, made in such a way as to ensure installation of any bag on the trunk.
Rice. 18. Trunk on the gas tank. 
Rice. 19. Securing the trunk to the neck of the gas tank. 
Perhaps the best cases for this purpose will be cases for the Quartz-2 film camera and the Zenit-6 camera. They are quite expensive, but their design and configuration are the most convenient. The cases are made of high-quality leather, the walls and bottom have soft
gaskets, and the lids are equipped with locks. Unnecessary partitions from the cases can be removed or installed in a suitable location. (In the heat of the moment, don’t cut off the carrying strap: you’ll need it at stops.)
Some motorcyclists install racks on the front fender of the motorcycle. The use of such a trunk is justified if the motorcycle has a fixed wing. The trunk is made in the form of a frame and installed so that the cargo does not obscure the light of the headlight. On single motorcycles, especially those where the fender is attached to the moving parts of the fork legs, such a trunk cannot be made. Firstly, it will increase the weight of the unsprung mass and make it difficult to control, and secondly, things will end up on a kind of vibration stand.
For all types of racks, it is best to use stainless steel tubes. After carefully filing the seams and polishing with fine sandpaper, luggage racks made from such tubes acquire an elegant appearance for a long time and are not susceptible to corrosion. But keep in mind that not every welding shop knows how to weld stainless steel. If you use regular steel tubes, the racks can be chromed or painted to match the color of the motorcycle.
Safety bars
On a motorcycle on a long journey, it’s a good idea to have protective bars (Fig. 20). This is not a tribute to fashion, but a useful addition that increases driving safety. The arches are designed to protect the driver from injury in the event of a fall and protect the motorcycle from damage. It is convenient to install pencil cases for things, a fog lamp, and mud guards on them. The arches must be designed in such a way that when the motorcycle rolls over on its side, the handlebars and tank do not touch the road.
Rice. 20. Motorcycle with crash bars and windshield. 
We offer a design of arches that meet these requirements (Fig. 21) and allow, in addition. install easily removable shields on them to protect the driver’s feet from dirt (the shields are described below).
Arcs 1 are bent from a seamless steel pipe. The most suitable size is 25×2.5 mm in diameter. To achieve the required radius, a pipe bender is a good tool - a common tool for plumbers. In the absence of a pipe bender, the arcs are bent on a suitable blank, after filling the pipes with sand and heating them with a gas torch for welding. To make the right and left arcs symmetrical, use a plywood template. The upper bracket 2 and the lower linings 3, with the help of which the arches are secured to the motorcycle, are made of sheet steel. After fitting to the motorcycle frame, these parts are welded into halves of the arches. As with welding the trunk, the motorcycle can be used as a slipway. When finally installing the arches on the frame, do not forget to put spacers 4, 5 on the coupling bolts.
The offered arches are designed for Java-350 motorcycles. Keeping the general configuration, but changing the overall dimensions and seats, the arches can be installed on motorcycles of other brands.
Something should also be said about covering the arcs. In our opinion, it is more correct to paint them white rather than chrome. In the dark, white color is better visible to others, which is important from a safety point of view. In addition, paint is more practical than chrome plating: if the motorcycle accidentally falls, it is easier to paint over the scratched area than to chrome the whole thing again. To ensure that the arches are visually associated with the motorcycle and do not look like a foreign body, it does not hurt to paint them to match the color of the motorcycle in the area of connection with the frame, in an area of 10-15 cm. Although the work of making the arches is quite labor-intensive, motorcyclists will be convinced of their usefulness more than once while traveling.
The pencil cases for the things we mentioned are made from waterproof fabric or made of aluminum. Pencil cases must be easily removable and can be secured to the arches using belts.
Rice. 21. Design of protective arches. 
Wind deflector
A windshield provides an invaluable service to a motorcyclist on a long journey (Fig. 20, 22). It protects from wind, dust and bad weather, and with a successful configuration improves the aerodynamics of the motorcycle. True, wind shields have their drawbacks: while creating comfort for the driver, they somewhat worsen the riding conditions of the passenger due to the turbulence that occurs behind the shield. It is better to make a “windbreaker” from two parts (the upper one is made of organic glass, the lower one is made of aluminum). It is much easier to make such a shield than from whole glass, and it breaks less often.
The manufacturing technology may be like this. A base is cut out of an aluminum sheet 1.5-2 mm thick. Then they give it the required shape, trying on the base on a motorcycle. The sockets for the arms are cut out of metal of the same grade and thickness and riveted to the base with countersunk rivets or butt welded. This method is simpler than knocking out bells from a whole sheet. The flanging made along the edge gives the shield the necessary rigidity. After filing the seams, the base is painted to match the color of the motorcycle, and the edges are trimmed with vinyl chloride edging or a rubber tube cut lengthwise.
The most important job is making the transparent part of the “windbreaker”. Having made a pattern out of paper, bend it along the axis of symmetry and check the coincidence of the edges. Transfer the outline of the pattern onto a thin sheet of metal or other hard material and cut out the template. Place the template on a sheet of plexiglass 4-5 mm thick, protecting the latter from scratches with paper. To prevent the template from moving on the glass, it is a good idea to tighten the entire package with clamps. The glass is cut out with a jigsaw, a hacksaw blade or a cutter made from a piece of fabric sharpened in the form of a crochet hook.
To give the glass the required curvature, the plexiglass is heated. This is best done over a gas stove. Put gloves on your hands and move the glass over the burners with rotational movements, without bringing it close to the fire. When you feel the pliability of the glass, gradually bend it, but not over the fire. As soon as the glass becomes elastic, reheat it and bend it, checking the result at the base of the windbreak. This work requires patience and accuracy, otherwise the glass will crack and all the work will go down the drain. The glass must be cooled in air at room temperature, without allowing it to straighten.
Rice. 22. Dimensions and pattern of windshield glass.
Now you can start assembling. Wrap the bottom end of the glass with thin rubber or vinyl chloride, clamp it between the base and a pre-cut metal plate, and drill holes for 4 mm screws in one pass. The screws should not be located very close to the edges of the glass. If a small crack appears on the glass while working with the shield, “stop” its progress with a small hole drilled at the end of the crack.
When attaching a windshield to a motorcycle, a mandatory condition must be observed - a rigid connection between the windshield and the motorcycle so that the glass does not vibrate while driving. You can do it this way. Clamps or split clamps are installed on the steering wheel, to the upper parts of which are attached racks connecting the steering wheel to the base of the wind deflector. As racks, you can use steel rods with a diameter of 12-14 mm, bent at the desired angle (Fig. 23). Bottom of base
The shield is connected to the lower traverse of the fork by rods, which are secured with bolts that tighten the fork stays.
Correct installation of the wind deflector is very important. You should look at the road not through the visor, but over it, since any dirt on the glass impairs visibility. The upper edge of the glass should lie just below eye level, and direct the air flow to the slope of the shield a few centimeters above the head. But remember: a large slope is dangerous. When driving over an obstacle, the motorcyclist stands up on the footrests and may hit the edge of the glass with his chin.
The geometry of the wind deflector is no less important. The excessive width of the shield makes it difficult to control the motorcycle in crosswinds.
The normal width and bending radius of the glass should ensure the passage of air flow 3-5 cm from the driver’s shoulders. When installing a wind deflector on a motorcycle with a side trailer, please note that the air reflected from the deflector should not hit the passenger in the sidecar. In conclusion, carry out sea trials of the wind deflector and, if necessary, engage in finishing work.
Rice. 23. Installing a wind deflector on a motorcycle. 
Mud flaps and wheel hoods.
It is also useful to take care of protecting your feet. The sun does not always illuminate a long road, and driving with wet feet is little pleasure. Therefore, we suggest tourists install mud guards on their motorcycle.
However, while performing the main function of protecting the feet from wind and dirt, they should not touch the road on turns, interfere with the operation of the pedals, or vibrate and rattle when driving.
For the manufacture of shields, sheet aluminum is suitable, which can be easily given the required shape. Can also be used
deep front fenders of motorcycles such as Java or Ch3. The widest part of the wing is used, from which the extensions are removed. The shields are connected to each other by two transverse steel strips and secured to the front frame brace using brackets. If the motorcycle has arches, then the shields are secured to the upper and lower crossbars of the arches with clamps. It is not necessary to have mud guards permanently on the motorcycle. You can offer the option of easily removable shields, made in the form of covers, put on the arches only when necessary (Fig. 24). Covers in the shape of arcs are sewn from rubberized fabric, oilcloth or thin tarpaulin. Rings are attached to one cover, and two elastic bands with hooks are attached to the other. The covers are put on the arches and tightened with elastic bands. When making a pattern for such shields, do not forget about the free passage of air to cool the engine. These covers are quickly put on the arches at the first drops of rain, and when folded, they take up little space.
Rice. 24. Mudguard covers on the arches. 
But no matter how good mud flaps are, they will not help enough if the car has small fenders that provide little protection from splashes coming off the wheels. In this case, it’s a good idea to additionally cover the wheels by screwing metal linings to the sides of the wing. To prevent the linings from spoiling the appearance of the motorcycle, they are wound on from the inside.
Rubber mud flaps suspended at the ends of the front and rear wings will help protect the driver’s feet and the passenger’s back from dirt. To prevent mud flaps from dangling, they are cut out of hard rubber and bent to the shape of the wings.
But all these measures are justified if the tourist route passes mainly along good roads. If you have to travel a significant part of the journey on dirt roads and there is a fear that they may be washed away by rain, then deep fenders will make movement difficult. This especially applies to the front fender, which is attached to the moving part of the fork and has a small gap with the tire. Such a wing will become clogged with dirt, which can lead to the wheel jamming and falling. To correct the situation, you can bend the fender mount onto the fixed elements of the front fork. For example, on Java motorcycles (Fig. 25), the load-bearing element of the wing can be a steel rod 1, passed through a hole in the steering column and secured with a nut under the headlight cover. A pad 2 made of 1.5-2 mm steel sheet is welded to the rod. The wing struts are cut and riveted into a new place. The wing is installed on the car and connected to the trim with two M8 bolts, and the spacers are tightened with clamps on the front fork housings. With such modifications to the front fender mount, the motorcycle's cross-country ability increases, and don't complain if the fender provides less protection from splashes. Something has to be given up.
Rice. 25. Attaching the fender to the fixed part of the front fork. 
Some tourist equipment.
When preparing for a trip, it is useful to equip your motorcycle with other travel gear. So, on the way, a side support will come in handy: during a short stop, a heavily loaded car will not have to be dragged onto the stand; It will be much easier to park the motorcycle on slopes or on soft ground (Fig. 26).
Rice. 26. Side emphasis. 
Motorcycle tourists whose travel route lies mainly off paved roads may benefit from a sports-type steering wheel, which differs from the standard one in its wider width, height and the presence of a crossbar that increases its rigidity. A motorcycle with a wide handlebar is easier to hold when riding on rough roads, gravel, sand, or in case of a tire puncture. Since such steering wheels are most often homemade, the following circumstances must be taken into account when designing them. The material for the steering wheel should be a seamless pipe. The width and bend of the steering wheel should be such that when turning, the driver does not have to change the position of the body and reach for the steering wheel. The height of the steering wheel handles should not be higher than chest level, and their position should be such that the hands rest freely on the handles. A common mistake to avoid is when a poorly designed steering wheel forces the driver to sit leaning back. This position is tiring and makes it difficult to stand up on the footrests or lean forward on steep climbs.
You also need to think about the comfort of riding a motorcycle on a long journey. Comfort is created not only by the correct location of the footpegs, steering wheel, levers, but also by a comfortable saddle. Recently, motorcycle factories have been installing cushion saddles on motorcycles. These saddles are comfortable if they are wide enough. Narrow pillows are not suitable for long trips: you can’t sit on them for a long time. If your car has a narrow saddle, sew a cover with side liners made of foam rubber or microporous rubber. The cover that expands the pillow is made of leatherette; The inserts are glued with glue 88 and secured with strong threads. Straps are sewn to the bottom edge of the cover and tightened under the pillow. If you are going to travel without a passenger, this cover can be combined with a motor backpack. To increase the passenger's ride comfort, some install
saddle soft back.
This is especially useful on cars with short cushions, for example on the old model Vyatka scooters. On the Vyatka and Tula-200, the running boards, which are made of bent steel plates, will come in handy. To prevent your feet from slipping off, rubber ski pads are riveted to the footrests.
For any motorcycle tourist who wants to be well prepared for a trip, a motorcycle is a wide field of activity for technical creativity. So, in addition to manufacturing trunks, arches, wind deflectors and other devices, you can modify the electrical equipment of the car, expand its capabilities, and make it more convenient.
Let's start with the fog lamp. It is installed on the lower right crossbar of the arch (Fig. 29). The low position of the headlight allows it to be used effectively when driving in fog. It is desirable that the headlight gives yellow light. If there is no yellow glass or lamp, you can insert a yellow flexible filter between the lamp and glass. Such filters are used in lighting equipment and are sold in theater supply stores.
The right position of the headlight meets traffic safety conditions at night. When passing oncoming traffic, drivers
cars are “asked” not to blind them and to switch from low beam to parking light. But it is dangerous to drive with such a light, especially for motorcyclists.
Switching to a parking light plus an additional headlight eliminates driver dazzle, and the motorcyclist sees the road and the right side of the road. The headlight is connected to the parking light terminal via a special toggle switch. By the way, the location of the fog lamp near the main one, often found on motorcycles, is, in our opinion, nothing more than decoration.
There is another type of additional headlight - a rotating one, which has a hinged device. The need for such a headlight is especially felt on cars with a fixed main headlight (for example, on the MC motorcycle, Tula, Chezetta scooters and others). Install the turning headlight next to the main one on the steering wheel or on the top crossbar of the arch. If you are installing such a headlight on the sidecar of a motorcycle, then it is better to place it on the left side of the stroller so that the driver can reach it with his hand. A turning headlight can be useful when choosing a path on a bad section of the road, or when navigating the terrain at night. Should
Keep in mind that to install it you need permission from the traffic police.
Fig. 29. Installation of the fog lamp on the protective arch. 
Direction indicator lights will be of great benefit in the city and on the highway. Some motorcycle factories equip their cars with “flashing lights”. If your “crew” is not equipped with signs, we recommend that you do so.
The direction indicator lights should be spaced as wide as possible and lamps with a power of at least 15 watts should be installed in them. Try to use lamps of the same type as those installed on the motorcycle - this will allow you to borrow it from another, less responsible place if one of them burns out. 6-volt relays RS-419 have been produced for motorcycle turn signals. You can also take a 12-volt automotive relay RS-57, which has a screw for adjusting the blinking intervals. By adjusting the RS-57 relay, it is possible to make it work in a 6-volt electrical system.
The relay is placed in the motorcycle headlight. A turn signal switch is installed next to the gas handle (Fig. 30). It can be made on the basis of a standard light switch, making a small alteration. On Java motorcycles, for example, the contact plate with the spring is removed from the switch, and a small recess is drilled in the middle lamella to fix the neutral position (Fig. 31).
Rice. thirty 
Rice. 31 
If the front direction indicators are not visible to the driver, it is necessary to monitor the operation of the system. To do this, a warning light is placed on the headlight. If the indicator lights are installed on the windshield, holes are drilled under them so that the light from the bulbs is visible to the driver.
Side trailer equipment.
All our discussions about design additions related to single motorcycles. The same devices, with the possible exception of the side support arcs and the right hanging bag, are useful to make on a motorcycle with a sidecar. On the stroller itself, an additional trunk behind the passenger seat is useful, where it is convenient to place large items, such as a tent. In places where the trunk supports are installed, the stroller body is reinforced with metal plates from the outside and inside. The trunk is made of steel tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm (Fig. 32). To prevent luggage from sliding, the cargo area should have a small backrest.
A significant advantage of motorcycles with a sidecar is the ability to carry a spare wheel with you. On motorcycles “Izh” and “Pannonia” it is placed on a special bracket mounted on the rear of the left side of the trailer. The design of the bracket may be different. It is only important to strengthen the stroller body from the inside where it is installed. When positioned sideways, the wheel does not interfere with the motorcycle passenger and is easily accessible.
A canopy can be a very necessary addition to a stroller, especially when traveling with a child. The awning must be folding, compact and light. This is how one motorcyclist on the BP-62 side trailer solved this issue (Fig. 33). The basis of the awning is four duralumin arches. They are covered with a thin tarpaulin (you can also use other soft, durable, waterproof material). The frame hinges are attached to the sides of the stroller. The posterior arch is motionless. The awning, when raised, is fastened to the frame of the windshield. At the points of contact with the glass, the front arch
edged with microporous rubber (Fig. 34). This awning could use a small rear window made of thin plexiglass. When designing such an awning, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of opening it by a passenger from the inside and ensuring good tension of the tarpaulin.
Rice. 32. Trunk and spare wheel mount on the stroller. 
Rice. 33. Folding awning on a motorcycle sidecar. 
Rice. 34. Sketch of an awning on a stroller: 1 - hinged mount, support cushion and M8 bolt; 2 - bracket and mounting bolts M6; 3 - arc 1600 mm long; 4 - waterproof fabric; 6 - arc 2000 mm long; 6 - arc 1900 mm long; 7 - arc 1620 mm long;
8 - porous rubber gasket 
Rear trailer.
Special attention will be paid to the single-wheel rear trailer. In some countries, for example in Czechoslovakia, Poland, and the German Democratic Republic, such trailers have become widespread.
While retaining all the advantages of single-track transport, the rear trailer expands the capabilities of a solo motorcycle and makes it easier to stow cargo while traveling. If it takes a lot of time to secure luggage on a motorcycle, then a trailer simplifies this procedure. Attaching it to a motorcycle or scooter takes a few minutes - just insert the kingpin, tighten it and connect the plug connector for the trailer's rear light.
Pulling off on a motorcycle with a trailer is simple. Doesn't drive the car from side to side. Moving with it is not difficult. Curves with a rear trailer are easy to navigate; This advantage compared to a side trailer is especially noticeable on mountain roads. When braking a motorcycle, there is no tendency for the rear trailer to skid, which cannot be said about a side trailer that is not equipped with a brake.
There are, of course, some peculiarities of driving a motorcycle with a trailer. The speed should be limited to 70-75 km/h - after all, additional loads are transferred to the motorcycle frame, and the small trailer wheel “feels” every pothole on the road. You will also need certain skills to move a motorcycle with a trailer in reverse.
The PAV-40 trailer produced by the Czechoslovak industry can give you an idea of the design of the rear trailer (Fig. 35). Its supporting frame consists of one high-quality steel pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Two cross members are welded to it, to which the body is attached using 4 rubber pads. An arc is welded in the center of the frame, protecting the sides of the trailer in case of a fall. The suspension system consists of two telescopic shock absorbers, the wheel is located in a pendulum fork. The body is steel, stamped, and has several stiffening ribs. It is closed on top with a lid with a lock. The license plate and signal lights are attached to the rear wall of the trailer. The electrical wiring is connected using a plug connector to the rear light.
Rice. 35. Rear trailer RAU-40 and articulated towbar for connecting it to a motorcycle. 
The towbar is made of four steel tubes connected into one unit. The risers have lugs and are secured to the motorcycle by the upper rear shock absorbers and passenger footpeg bolts. Two ears with holes for the pivot pin of the rotating device are welded to the tube connection unit.
In recent years, rear trailers have begun to appear on the roads of our country, and everywhere they are arousing keen interest. Without waiting for the industry to master the production of one-wheel trailers, some motorists began making them themselves.
The rear trailer was successfully designed by motorcycle tourism enthusiast B. Ezdakov (Fig. 36). The frame of his trailer consists of two parallel steel tubes connected by cross members. Ears are welded to the frame, to which the body is attached through rubber blocks. The body frame is assembled from duralumin corners, the lining is made from aluminum sheets. The lower part of the telescopic shock absorber is fixed on a movable platform, which makes it possible to correctly adjust its tilt (Fig. 37). The platform, in turn, has elliptical holes and is bolted to the frame lugs.
Rice. 36. Rear trailer designed by B. Ezdakov. 
Rice. 37. Installing a telescopic shock absorber on the rear trailer. 
The hitch assembly and rotating device are made more perfectly than those of the PAV-40 trailer described above. This design provides better connection with the motorcycle, since the backlash in the connections is reduced, and this is important for the trailer’s quick response to vehicle maneuvers (Fig. 38). In addition, the towbar is a trunk with a rear platform and small side bags.
Rice. 38. Diagram of the rear trailer stroller. 
One of the authors had the opportunity to conduct extensive testing of this trailer, both empty and fully loaded. Tests took place on mountain serpentine roads and on highways at speeds of up to 90 km/h. Driving performance rating is the highest,
When designing such a trailer, you should refrain from inflating the dimensions of the body: after all, a motorcycle is not a tractor-trailer. The towbar mounted on a motorcycle can be made more openwork by using tubes with a diameter of 14-16 mm. It must be said, however, that so far traffic police authorities do not always give permission to operate homemade rear trailers due to the lack of technical requirements that trailers must meet. The issue about them will obviously be resolved soon, and the trailers will acquire citizenship rights.
In conclusion, I would like to draw the reader’s attention to the aesthetic side when designing additional devices. Successfully found outlines are pleasing to the eye, and we must strive to ensure that homemade tourist equipment organically fits into the contours of the car and harmonizes with them.
Useful little things.
Now, perhaps, it’s time to talk about some “little things” that create certain conveniences while traveling, make it easier to operate the machine, and allow you to have spare parts and tools on hand. At first glance, they may seem unnecessary, but, as experienced people say: “You always don’t notice little things when they are there, and you really feel their absence.”
In addition to various devices of our own design, we bring to your attention a description of a number of devices proposed by other motorcyclists (based on materials from the magazine “Behind the Wheel”).
1. How much gas is in the tank? A motorist will quickly answer such a question by looking at the device. The motorcyclist has to determine the amount of gasoline “by eye”. A simple gas meter will help improve measurement accuracy (Fig. 39). It is made from a textolite rod or other material that is well wetted with gasoline. The rod is lowered vertically into the tank, into which 1 liter of gasoline is poured, and the corresponding marks are made on the rod. The number of liters is written above each mark, and the gas meter is ready.
Rice. 39. The simplest gas meter 
Rice. 40. Float gas meter
2. You can use a more complex design of a gas meter, the advantage of which is that the pointer is constantly located in the tank (Fig. 40). Guides are bent from three-millimeter steel wire in the shape of the letter P and threads are cut at the ends. A light tube is fixed in a foam float with holes for guides - an indicator with graduation in liters. Three holes are drilled in the tank neck flange and a tube and the ends of the guides with pre-screwed lower nuts are brought out through them. Then screw on the upper guide nuts and tighten them. In this case, the lower part of the guides with the vinyl chloride tube put on it should rest against the bottom of the tank. A flag is attached to the upper end of the pointer with a screw, allowing the pointer to be fixed in the lowered position.
3. You need a measuring cup for oil on the road, because not all dispensers are equipped with mixers. The most suitable place for it is in the gas tank grid. The cup can be used metal or polyethylene. On its inner wall there are marks that determine the amount of oil for 1 and 2 liters of gasoline. If the cup does not fit in the factory mesh, you will have to unsolder it from the support ring and solder a new, deeper one. On cars where there is no net at all, install it. It will always come in handy on the road when refueling from a “random” bucket.
4. On a number of motorcycles, access to the battery and tool boxes is possible after lifting the saddle cushion, which is inconvenient on a long journey. We recommend installing internal locks on the lids (box locks from a Pannonia motorcycle or door locks from a GAZ car are suitable after appropriate modification).
5. In the battery box of some motorcycles, you can make efficient use of space by moving the battery as far as possible to the side. A polyethylene flask or metal jar for 400-500 cm3 of motor oil is placed in the free space next to the battery. There is also a place for the ignition installation indicator, spare fuses, fuel gauge and other items (Fig. 41). Fastening is carried out with clamps installed on the walls.
Rice. 41. Use of space in the battery box. 
6. Battery electrolyte that gets on the chrome muffler can cause a lot of grief. To avoid this, wrap the battery in a sheet of thin rubber or plastic film. The cover should be 15-20 mm above the terminals. It is impossible to completely wrap the battery: the gas released during charging must have a free outlet into the atmosphere. The battery case is held in place by a rubber ring.
7. To refuel with gasoline on the road, it is good to have a gas hose with you. As a hose, you can use a 1.5-2 m rubber tube, sold in pharmacies. Such a tube, rolled into a spiral, can be stored under a rubber ring placed on the battery.
torus
8. Most often, a motorcyclist needs a screwdriver and a spark plug wrench. Therefore, it is advisable not to wrap them in a bag, but to install them in special clamps located in the tool box. It is convenient to store spare spark plugs in holders next to the spark plug wrench. To protect the electrodes, plastic bottle caps are placed on the spark plugs. By the way, the tool bag will not interfere with closing the box if it is pressed against the wall with a rubber ring placed over the hooks (Fig. 42).
Rice. 42. Use of space in the toolbox. 
9. To avoid losing small parts during overnight repairs of the carburetor or other components, use the folded lids of the battery or tool boxes. In this case, “under-hood” lamps installed in boxes will be very helpful.
10. It is necessary to have a portable lamp on the road. Alligator clips are soldered to the ends of its cord. To keep your hands free during repairs, the “carrying bag” is tied to a rubber ring, and the ring is put on the head.
The mounting of a portable lamp may be different. Hardware stores sell small magnetic door latches. Attach the magnet of such a latch to the “carrying”. Now it can be “glued” to any metal object.
12. On some cars, the seat space is successfully used for storing small items. On the Java-350, for example, a shelf is conveniently mounted around the intake noise muffler, attached at the front to the second screw connecting the lining. Its rear part rests on the holders of the tool and battery boxes. For ease of installation, the shelf is made composite.
13. On some motorcycles, the edge of the front fender is located low to the road. Improving driver protection from road dirt, such a wing clings to relatively small road obstacles when driving. To increase the cross-country ability of the motorcycle, you can trim the lower part of the wing, and in order not to worsen its protective properties, add a rubber apron bent to the shape of the wing.
14. Every motorcyclist knows how long it sometimes takes to “ask” the car in front to give way. Low signal power does not convey the “cry of the soul” to the driver. Therefore, we recommend equipping the motorcycle with dual sound signals. You will see the benefits of dual signals when overtaking heavy trucks and when driving along serpentine mountain roads. Signals tuned in overtone to maximum volume are mounted on a special bracket with the grilles facing forward. When installing signals under the headlight, remember that they should not interfere with the full travel of the front fork.
15. It’s unlikely that anyone will have to be convinced of the benefits of a rear-view mirror. In the city, on the highway or when traveling in groups, it is simply necessary. Therefore, be sure to equip your car with a mirror, or even two - right and left. Some motorcyclists install a mirror on the windshield, others - on the handlebars or at the end of the handlebars. Preference should be given to fixing the mirror at the end of the steering wheel. With this installation, the image will not be partially obscured by the driver's hand or shoulder. True, there is a greater chance of losing the mirror when the car falls, and it is not very convenient to lean it against a tree in the forest; however this is not so
significantly compared to a good review. By the way, a mirror on a short, rigid rod vibrates less, and the image in this case is not “blurred.”
16. Not all cars have the opportunity to mount a mirror at the end of the steering wheel, since some factories install turn indicators in this place. On the Vyatka VP-150 M scooter, in order to combine these two necessary parts, the mirror is secured as follows. Adapter washer 2 is made from a steel sheet 3 mm thick. Four holes with a diameter of 3 mm with countersinks are drilled in nut 1, securing the turn signal lamp, and in the adapter washer. The nut and washer are then connected with countersunk rivets. Mirror bracket 3 is secured to the protrusion of the adapter washer. The holes for the rivets are marked by first installing the nut, bracket and mirror (Fig. 43).
17. Some motorcycle tourists duplicate the mirror located on the motorcycle with a medical mirror attached to the temple of the glasses (Fig. 44). Such a mirror is very helpful on roads with frequent turns, when the reflection in the main mirror goes to the side, and it is undesirable to turn around. The leg of the mirror is held on the frame of the glasses with rubber rings. Before installation, it must be bent at a right angle.
Rice. 43. Mounting the mirror on the steering wheel of the Vyatka and V-150 M scooter 
Rice. 44. Installation of a medical mirror on the temple of glasses. Reflection angles when looking forward and to the side
18. If most of the route runs on dirt roads, it doesn’t hurt to have bracelets that fit on the rear wheel. This is especially useful for a motorcycle with a sidecar on a road muddy from rain. The bracelet straps can be made from rubberized material 4 mm thick or an old conveyor belt, having previously cut off several layers. Belt width 35 mm, length 500-550 mm (depending on the size of the cylinder). Grousers are made from a 3-mm steel sheet and bent to the shape of the tire. On the wheel, the bracelets are fastened with bolts passed through metal plates attached to the ends of the belt (Fig. 45).
Rice. 45. Installation of lug bracelets on the wheel 
19. If your motorcycle does not have side and rear handles, we recommend making them. They will make it easier to place a motorcycle loaded with luggage on. parking lot and will be useful when pulling out of the mud. Handle brackets must be rigidly connected to the frame.
20. To drain water that may get into the chain guard during rain or when crossing a ford, drill in the bottom
point of the casing, a hole with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm.
A motorcycle rack is undoubtedly a necessary and useful thing, especially for lovers of long journeys, and the need to make one with your own hands often arises among novice motorcyclists, since most factory products may not fit a particular bike and will still have to be remade after purchase. This article will describe a couple of options for making a motorcycle trunk, depending on the cargo being transported, or on the availability of panniers.
In general, a modern motorcycle trunk differs significantly from the trunks of Soviet times, since now you can easily purchase plastic or leather panniers (read more about making panniers). And the design of a modern trunk is designed specifically to secure not cargo, but panniers (plastic or leather) to the trunk.
And the cargo itself is already packed into trunks attached to the trunk. It is much more convenient and compact, and the items being transported are always dry and clean. Well, the safety of things in the cases is ensured if, for example, you need to move away from the motorcycle somewhere along the way.
In addition, thanks to the panniers, the trunk itself, designed to secure them, is made much more compact and neat, unlike the trunks of previous years, designed for securing and transporting some bags or just cargo.
However, both options will be discussed below, that is, first we will consider a motorcycle trunk designed for securing panniers, and the second option is a regular trunk (Soviet type) for securing some kind of cargo or ordinary bags on it.
After all, some novice motorcyclists do not yet have panniers, and it is often necessary to travel somewhere far away, especially with the onset of the holidays, and in this case an ordinary trunk will help out, which you can make with your own hands in just a few hours.
In addition, a regular trunk (not intended for trunks) has a big advantage - it can be used to secure and transport some oversized cargo (for example, boards to the dacha), which will not fit into the trunks. But first, the manufacture of a more compact trunk designed specifically for panniers will be described.
The simplest trunk for a small rear case, or for small and light things, such as the one in the photo on the left, is not designed for heavy loads, since it is attached to the fender, and not to the frame. But such a trunk costs more than 12 thousand rubles.
And the trunk in the photo below costs more than 14 thousand. So is it worth paying that kind of money when it’s not at all difficult to make it yourself, having several tubes, an angle grinder (grinder) and a welding machine.
Moreover, if desired, you can improve the fastening and attach the trunk to the frame in order to transport something heavy.
However, for items that are not heavy, you can attach the trunk and case to the fender (if the fender is made of steel).
A motorcycle rack designed for securing panniers.
Such a trunk can be made from a metal rod or tubes (diameter 10 - 14 mm), but the most accurate trunk (more precisely, the trunk platform for securing the trunk) will still be made from a steel sheet, or from a sheet of duralumin. In addition, even if you make the trunk from tubes or rods, you will still have to then make an upper platform to secure the trunk using a steel or aluminum sheet. After all, the lower part of modern trunks is designed specifically for landing on a flat plane.
Therefore, in order not to make additional parts (a platform and ears for attaching it to the rod), I advise you to make the upper trunk from a steel sheet (even better from stainless steel), and the lower fastenings of the trunk to the frame themselves can be made from a rod or pipe.
The design of the neat and compact trunk, designed to secure the top case and made of sheet steel, is clear in the photograph. It is advisable to use a steel sheet or stainless steel with a thickness of at least 3 mm, so that the rigidity is not small, but in order to lighten the weight of the trunk (more precisely, the platform) and improve the appearance, I advise you to contact a familiar milling machine to cut out the windows (see photo). Although simple straight windows, as in the photo, are quite possible to cut using an ordinary grinder, drills and a set of cutters.
By the way, now you can already find many companies that have CNC machines for laser cutting of sheet metal (or for cutting with a milling cutter, it doesn’t matter) and the services of such companies are not at all expensive. By turning to them, you can make a trunk no worse, or even better, than factory branded products. And the product you make will be exactly the right size for your bike and case.
First, we cut out the sheet of the top platform from cardboard (template), attaching the cardboard to the inverted trunk (to the bottom of the trunk) in order to mark the attachment points and from there draw the dimensions of the template for the top platform of the trunk. By the way, many factory plastic cases already have their own factory site, which also has a system for quick removal of the case and a lock securing the case. This means we make a trunk platform (first from cardboard) exactly under the factory platform from the trunk.
When cutting out the cardboard template (and then when cutting out the steel sheet), you should keep this in mind: in order for the trunk to have rigidity, after cutting out the lightening windows, and also in order to be able to secure the fasteners just below the platform, you will need to bend the steel sheet along edges at 90º or a little more (see photo and it’s better to use for this), which means more material (steel sheet) will be required in width.
The bend of the trunk platform is needed for rigidity, and also in order to secure the platform to the motorcycle frame, or to the fender, if the fender is made of metal and not plastic and the cargo being transported is not heavy (for example, some warm clothes, or a camping mat) . Next, after making the platform, you need to make elements for attaching it to the frame or wing (preferably, of course, to the frame).
The design and configuration of the fastening elements of the trunk depends on the design of the motorcycle frame and here it is difficult to give precise recommendations, since everything is measured and done locally. Most often, motorcycle trunk fasteners are made of metal tubes or steel rod (but for individual fasteners, steel sheet can also be used).
A trunk with a subwoofer mounted on the rear trunk of my Dnepr.
And here you should consider this: if you plan to transport something heavy on the trunk or in a trunk (for example, in my trunk there is a podium for a subwoofer and an amplifier, which together weigh 10 kg - see the photo where they are mounted on the trunk), this means that your trunk must have down pipes (which are attached to the frame at the bottom), which, after welding them to the trunk platform, have the shape of a triangle when viewed from the side and are reinforcing gussets.
That is, the design of the attachment of the trunk platform to the frame should be such that, if possible, tubes are attached from the edge of the trunk platform, going to the bottom and secured to the frame. This design is quite rigid (after all, a triangle is the rigidest figure) and can withstand heavy loads.
The pipes themselves can be secured to the platform using bolts, but then you will have to weld ears with holes onto the ends of the pipes. But you can weld the tubes to the platform, but you will still have to weld ears at the bottom in order to be able to secure the trunk to the frame and, if necessary, remove it. Response lugs with holes are welded onto the frame, and where to weld them is measured locally by attaching the finished trunk to the frame (when applying it, it is useful to use a laser or regular level).
After attaching the down pipes to the trunk area and the counter lugs to the frame, all that remains is to paint everything and secure it with M8 or M10 bolts.
If you also plan to attach side panniers, then support frames are made (bent) from a steel rod (10 - 12 mm) or tubes and they are attached with the upper part to the upper trunk, frame, or fender. To secure the support frames to them, steel ears with holes should be made from a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick and welded.
Well, then both frames are applied from the sides to the fender or to the trunk, and through the holes of the lugs, counter holes are marked and drilled to secure the frames to the motorcycle (you can simply weld the side frames to the trunk, as in the photographs below, where the trunk for Yamaha is shown). It is advisable to weld ears with holes on the frames in advance to secure the side cases themselves.
However, some side panniers (depending on the design) have special straps, thanks to which both panniers are thrown over the rear fender (that is, hanging on belts), and the frames are only needed to support the panniers so that they do not catch on the wheel when the bike turns.
Motorcycle trunk with side shelves for carrying cargo.
Since Soviet times, a regular trunk for securing and transporting cargo (not panniers) has been made entirely of steel rods or metal tubes (for example, with side shelves for bags, such as in the drawing just below). And many owners of Yavs, Izhas and other motorcycles traveled across the vast country with such luggage racks.
motorcycle rack Java
But below we will describe the trunk for more modern touring motorcycles, and if you want to make it more beautiful, then you can, as for the trunk described above, make a cargo area from a steel sheet, and make the remaining structural elements from a steel bar or tube. However, it depends on you, but below we will describe the manufacture of a trunk entirely from steel tubes.
However, for normal bending of tubes you need at least the simplest one, and not everyone has it. Therefore, to make a beautiful bend, simply use a steel rod in the bend areas, which can be bent beautifully without a pipe bender; just heat it with a torch and bend it, for example, in a bench vice. By the way, almost all trunks of Soviet times (as in the drawing) were made of rod.
The photo on the left shows a rack that is sold in some online stores and is designed for off-road motorcycles. This rack for a Yamaha motorcycle costs $170 plus shipping. However, it is not at all difficult to make a trunk of this type yourself, and not only for a Yamaha motorcycle, but for any bike. Only the fastening elements are made depending on the configuration of the frame and rear fender of your bike.
As can be seen from the photograph, all structural elements are made of steel tube, but as mentioned above, steel rod can also be used. And although a structure made from a rod will be a little heavier, the rod can be bent without problems without having a pipe bender.
May the readers forgive me that all sizes are not indicated, but they are individual and depend on the size of a particular motorcycle (after all, it is unrealistic to describe the sizes for all bikes). And in order to clearly see in advance what size your trunk will be, it is first useful to bend a template in place from ordinary aluminum wire, and then bend a rod or tube using this wire template.
First, we cut and bend it from the rod, then we weld the top platform and the jumpers for it, then we bend and weld two identical side frames for the side bags, and then we connect (weld) the top platform and the side frames, using the four jumpers shown in the photo above with red arrows.
Moreover, the length of these jumpers depends on the height of the motorcycle saddle and everything is measured and electrically welded in place, and then the structure is removed and finally welded. All that remains is to again attach the welded structure to your motorcycle and mark where the mounting lugs, indicated in the photo with red arrows, will be welded, depending on the design of the rear part of the frame, fender and the layout of the rear part of the motorcycle.
Here, too, everything is individual and it is impossible to describe something specific, and sometimes there is simply nothing to attach the welded structure of the trunk to the motorcycle. In this case, we simply mark the frame in the right places with a marker and carefully clean off the paint, then in these places we weld the fastening lugs (made of sheet metal 3 - 5 mm thick), and in relation to the lugs with holes welded on the frame, applying the trunk we mark where You should weld the response lugs on the trunk itself.
Rack for a motorcycle made of steel pipes (additional support is indicated by the red arrow).
And one more thing, if you plan to sometimes transport heavy cargo (for example, some kind of iron or spare parts), then I recommend adding (welding) additional thrust bridges, which are indicated in the photo on the left with a red arrow, which will be attached to the fastenings of the passenger footrests and which will create two additional points of support. Also, a reinforcing triangular gusset (shown in yellow in the photo) should be made and welded from sheet steel.
This is much more reliable, and you only need two additional pieces of steel rod or tube, the ends of which are flattened and holes are drilled in them for the mounting bolts. Well, we grab these jumpers in place to the side frames from below, then remove the trunk and finally scald the entire structure.
All that remains is to clean, degrease, prime and paint. Of course, only two options for motorcycle racks, out of many designs, were described above, but I hope they will be useful to novice motorcyclists who love to travel, good luck to everyone.
Original handmade motorcycle saddlebags always look impressive and attract attention. Very often, such additional elements are made of light and durable materials - PVC, plywood, thick leather. The only requirements for a homemade motorcycle rack are their lightness, compactness, lack of interference while riding, and aesthetic appearance.
All motorcycle baskets can be divided into several types, taking into account their shape and appearance:
- Side saddlebags that date back to the days of the cowboys. This type of accessory is ideal for long trips. The dimensions of the side trunks are significant, since they must fit all the things necessary for a comfortable stay on the road.
- Rear cases can be varied in size and shape - rectangular, loaf-shaped, compact and full-fledged. Typically attached to the back of the passenger seat, rear fender or trunk.
- “Loaves” cannot be confused with anything - they have the shape of an elongated cylinder. This accessory can be installed in various parts of the motorcycle.
- Small bags that hang near the gas tank are designed for storing documents, phones and other small items.
When choosing such accessories, and, in particular, a rear case for a motorcycle, you should take into account the increase in the size of the equipment and the decrease in its maneuverability and speed.
How to make panniers for a motorcycle: procedure
Before you start making trunks, you need to decide on their shape, material, fastening system, and the presence of decorative elements. To make leather accessories, you will need to make a life-size pattern. If your trunk is made of plywood, metal or plastic, then you will need a sketch of the future product, and you will also have to decide on the fastening of parts and lining.
Let's consider making a leather basket with your own hands:
- Make patterns for all parts of the case, taking into account the seam allowance (1–1.5 cm maximum).
- If you have a leather sewing machine, start stitching the pieces together. If you don't have a machine, you will have to sew the parts of the case by hand using a machine stitch.
- Turn the case right side out and start stitching the seams - to do this, step back 3-4 mm from the edge. Make sure that the decorative seams are even.
- To add rigidity, drive rivets into the corners of the case. After this, you can move on to making buckles and a system for attaching accessories to the frame.
- Cut laces from leftover leather to attach the rack to the motorcycle. At the same time, thoroughly moisten the seams of the product from the inside with water to give the material elasticity and leave them to dry.
- Cut out the flaps for the case, mark the line of seams (main and decorative) and immediately sew the parts.
- At the final stage, you will need to engrave some design on the valve or sew on any other decorative element of your choice.
Try to make motorcycle panniers with your own hands, embodying the most daring creative ideas and ideas!
Our main object for customization (at-home modifications) and the most popular vehicles for “choppers” are “Urals”, “Dneprs”, “Caciques”. They are the main freight transport in the village.
Often, after a “cosmetic renovation”, many bikers hook bags back under various luggage and just for “effect”. New Urals may have something like luggage racks installed from the factory. This applies to the “tourist” and “retro” types (there is a small shelf at the back instead of a saddle).
But there are those who use them to their fullest. However, you can’t carry much in them, and even for those who use the Solo not for show off, but for business, sometimes there is a need to transport some kind of cargo. You can, of course, outfit a motorcycle with three very voluminous, strong panniers, but not everyone needs it and not everyone can afford it.
In this case, the economical option is the trunk. Of course, if you have not radically altered the motorcycle. I just want to present to you one of the homemade options for this “tuning”. It was built in a garage and tested on several long trips.
The design of this trunk differs from the one that everyone is used to seeing on IZHs and Javas, because the Ural frame has a different rear design and the mufflers are lifted up.
As befits a tourist trunk, the proposed one has three cargo areas: one at the top behind the seat (Fig. 1) and two on the sides above the mufflers (Fig. 2 and 3). All of them are made of 10mm steel pipe. The unusual pentagonal shape of the sidewalls was chosen so as not to disturb the main compositional lines of the “stern” of the motorcycle: the lower tube and shelf run parallel to the muffler, and the upper one parallel to the seat. Rods made of 6 mm rod are welded along and across the sidewall for additional rigidity.
The sidewalls are attached to the frame at five points, and the top shelf at four (Fig. 4). and there is no need to weld anything to the frame or drill additional holes in it. The luggage rack fastening elements are shown in Fig. 5.
Now let’s look at what each one is intended for. Element A is simply the flattened end of a pipe with a 9 mm diameter hole drilled in it. Here the sidewall is screwed with the muffler mounting bolt. As an option, a plate with a hole welded to the bottom of the pipe will do.
At point B, the sidewall is attached to the upper bolt of the shock absorber using a steel angle welded to it.
The upper shelf is attached to the frame at point B with a plate of suitable length. At the bottom it connects to the mounting points for the direction indicators.
The spacer, with which the sidewall is mounted at point G, gives the trunk lateral rigidity. With its threaded part it is inserted into the fender mounting hole, and the other side is connected to the sidewall with a bolt.
Rod D carries the main load on the trunk. On a motorcycle it is mounted at the mounting point of the fender and seat using a triangular bracket E with a bolt welded to it.
A few words about the lower side shelves. They are small so as not to spoil the appearance of the motorcycle, but their size is quite enough to secure a 20-liter canister. Some narrowness of the shelf forward along the motorcycle is explained by the design and repeats the location of the muffler.
The total load capacity of the trunk is about 50 kg. But if you try hard and have a little ingenuity, you can come up with something more impressive (if you really need to).
I think this trunk can also be used with a stroller.
