Good day! Question for those who have encountered this problem. So I’ll start from afar to make the situation more clear. In general, I wrote earlier that I had a problem with the fact that at a traffic light the speed dropped to 500, then rose to 1200, then leveled off and everything started in a circle several times, and if I left it on hot, at idle, it could stall altogether, but it stalled softly, as if they had simply turned the key, and the canister purge valve was also clicking. I went through various diagnostics for a long time, in the end they found an air leak through the rubber bands of the receiver, changed the IAC, washed the throttle, changed the filter and mesh, after this replacement curve the fuel pump whistled, failures seemed to become less frequent, but it still stalled and only when it was hot, when I left it on single. As a result, I got to one diagnostician, he found a bent throttle valve, did the firmware and the car seemed to drive, the fuel pump stopped whistling after a month and a half. Everything seemed to be fine, but over time I began to notice such a thing that when the tank needle is in the red zone, the car seems to have been replaced, it starts to drive very cheerfully with less pressure on the gas pedal, plus there is clearer information from the pedal and less roar of the engine when accelerating. .e. even from the bottom (1.4 engine) it accelerates with a pleasant sound, and not with a fart that is about to die. BUT, as soon as you fill gasoline above the red zone, the car becomes sluggish, when accelerating in second gear, the car does not respond to how much the gas pedal is pressed, whether the pedal is to the floor, or until half the acceleration speed does not change, the speed rises somehow slowly, but if you pump the gas pedal with your foot several times, you can achieve a slight acceleration, but still not as much as on an empty tank (for the difference in weight of 30 liters, I think it’s stupid to say what will affect acceleration). Plus, when accelerating from the bottom, there is an unpleasant, sort of slightly farting sound from the engine (not the exhaust), it feels like it’s missing either air or gasoline. I drove like this for almost a year, I couldn’t find the reason, there were similar topics on the service and on the Internet, but there were no concrete solutions, most people simply don’t believe that the car can drive more vigorously on an empty tank. There is no air or other stuff in the tank. Recently the fuel pump whistled again, but the car drove briskly and on a full tank, so the pump was still original since 2009, I decided that the problem was in it and changed it, it seemed to start running, then I found a topic about the RTD and also changed it to catch up. The car came to life with any tank, drove like that for a week and a half and went to another city on the highway, everything was great, the acceleration was excellent, I didn’t even notice how quickly it picked up to 150. BUT, after driving about 70-80 kilometers, I began to notice that again something was wrong; when I was driving back, I had to stoke in third to overtake. In general, now I don’t know where to dig, the car now drives according to its mood, no matter how many liters are in the tank, for example, I leave for work in the morning, it’s dull, the gas is on the floor, and like a pensioner it accelerates slowly, I leave it in the parking lot, in the evening I go out and it drives cheerfully with slipping in second and third gear, as if the engine had been changed. So far I can’t catch any pattern (if before it was based on the level of gasoline in the tank). I also forgot to write that even after replacing the RTD with a hot one, in half the cases it starts poorly, you have to squeeze the gas. I only drive on gasoline; I don’t have gas equipment. Anyone who has encountered such a problem or knows what could be the reason, please tell me.
www.drive2.ru
Stuttering when accelerating? Dig! - logbook Lada Kalina Sedan 2006 on DRIVE2
As you know, every car requires attention. So mine demanded it. Sluggish acceleration, vibration, consumption, shocks when switching. List of suspects:1. MAF sensor. I recently measured www.drive2.ru/l/477094589040165062/. The multimeter reading is 1.04 V.
According to the diagnostics, it showed 1.016 V. There is a third way - remove the chip from the mass air flow sensor and drive it. I haven't tried it.
Full size
Mass air flow sensor 1.016 V.
2. Candles. I forgot to take a photo. Yesterday I took it off, like new. Candles cost 17 dv. www.drive2.ru/l/473344429755728085/. I'm going to install DENSO.
3. Air filter. Yesterday I took it out dirty. I blew it out from the compressor. I was breathing better. It was easier to go.
photo from the Internet. It looks like it was for me.
4. I have long wanted to try running antifreeze past the throttle valve. The fitting was used from an old radiator.
That's how I sawed it off.
did the same
5. Corrugation. www.drive2.ru/l/478326591819088066/. I've seen some cars come out inside. I thought so too. It turned out not. It just rattled and siphoned. Although sound could also play a role. After replacement the vibration went away.
Free passage
6. It remains to look at the injectors. There is no smell of gasoline. But the O-rings have already been purchased. I took washing for the injector and valves. I'll do it as soon as I fill the tank full. After this, you will need to replace the spark plugs as recommended.
Like this
7. Here I will simply post screenshots from the diagnostics. Guys who understand may notice. I'd be glad for your advice.
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Dips when pressing the gas pedal Lada Kalina: acceleration and idling
What is "failure"? This is an effect in which the car does not accelerate when you press the gas pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the “jerk” effect occurs. This is a fairly common malfunction associated with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.
Video about gas failures on an injection engine:
This video material will talk about such a malfunction as gas leaks, the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.
Causes of the phenomenon
Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal
There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. It often appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by an increase in fuel consumption, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:
These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.
Dips during acceleration
Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:
Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.
Gas leaks at idle
At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:
- Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.
Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge
All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).
conclusions
The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither computer diagnostics nor repairs will cost a penny.
carfrance.ru
Problems with the engine (troits, jerks, pulls poorly), causes
05 October 2015 LadaOnline 65 831
Does the car jerk at low speeds or when accelerating? Is the engine running rough and the Check Engine light on? Has the car lost its dynamics and doesn’t drive like before? In this article we will tell you about all the possible causes of these malfunctions and how to solve the problem.
It is worth noting that the causes of malfunctions are similar for all modern Lada cars (Kalina, Granta, Priora, Largus, Vesta, Niva or XRAY), because AvtoVAZ equips them with engines with identical characteristics.
It is recommended to start searching for a problem with diagnostics (reading errors). If this is not possible, then we first perform a test (or temporarily install a known working spare part/sensor), and only then replace the faulty parts.
If the engine idles or the car jerks when accelerating (driving), possible reasons:
Malfunctions in the ignition system
- The spark plugs are faulty.
- High voltage wires are faulty.
- Ignition module/coils are faulty.
Malfunctions in the fuel system
- The fuel filter or fuel line is clogged.
- The fuel injectors or their circuits are faulty.
- The fuel pump is faulty.
- The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is not working.
You need to check the pressure in the fuel system.
Malfunctions of sensors or their circuits
- Crankshaft position sensor (CPS).
- Coolant temperature sensor (CTS).
- Throttle position sensor (TPS).
- Mass air flow sensor (MAF).
- Knock sensor (DS).
- Oxygen sensor (OS).
More details about sensors.
Other engine and system malfunctions
- Compression in the engine cylinders is low.
- The cylinder head gasket is damaged.
- The engine control system is faulty.
- The valves of the gas distribution mechanism are burnt out and leaky.
- The exhaust system is leaking.
- The valve clearances are not adjusted (8-valve engines only).
- The hydraulic pushers are faulty.
- The engine air filter is dirty.
- Vacuum hose connections are leaking.
Have you encountered power failures or observed unstable engine operation? What was the reason? We solve similar power unit problems in the comments or on the forum. Let us remind you that along with misfires, other engine malfunctions may appear, for example, floating speed.
Keywords: Lada Granta engine | Lada Priora engine | Lada Kalina engine | Lada Kalina 2 engine | Lada Largus engine | Lada Vesta engine | Niva engine | lada xray engine | universal article
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"Peter - AT"
TIN 780703320484
OGRNIP 313784720500453
Good day to all,
First of all, the topic is addressed to those who have had at least some experience in operating a LADA car.
The cause of the malfunction is in the engine (1.6, injector, 8 class Euro-3).
Signs: so that everyone can understand what’s wrong with the engine - I’ll put it simply: all the signs of an advanced stage of a clogged catalyst!
(i.e. poor engine starting, does not develop speed, high operating temperature of the engine during prolonged operation, does not run at all, you have to decelerate like an old motorcycle even in order to start normally). I’ll say right away - it’s not about him!Now a little background: The car was purchased new in 2005, initially the engine seemed “strangled”. But without paying attention to this, they referred to the reason for its Euro-3 environmental class (it was not possible to compare engine dynamics at that time). We traveled like this for several years.
By that time, the engine was becoming less dynamic, and citing its mileage (50-70 t.km.), they decided that the catalyst had definitely melted. Having heard enough stories about how easy it is to get rid of him, we did not take one thing into account :) If everything were so simple, he turned out to be metal, not ceramic))). How we got rid of it is a separate story, but the result was still achieved. We start the engine, take off and... OH GOD! its dynamics have not changed in any way, only it has become louder ((((
Around the same time, another malfunction appeared: the engine began to heat up during operation (high-quality antifreeze was used since the car was in operation!!). Now not only does it not pull, but it also gets warm.
The next struggle began with the second malfunction.
The temperature sensor was replaced, then the pump, then the thermostat, then the temperature sensor again, and then the radiator itself. All this was sold within a year.
Here we decided that the increased operating temperature of the engine was a side effect of the first malfunction.
Are the marks lost? No, everything is fine.
Again all efforts were thrown into searching for the first cause.
The next step was to change the engine program to the Euro-2 class. Let's get going - no result! ...We continue driving.
Over time, the dynamics of the car became comparable to a car loaded with 3, 4, 5, 10 bags of potatoes, and then even as if you were towing a car. The mileage is already 100-130 t.km.
It's time to change the fuel pump grid - zero results, then the fuel pump - zero results, cleaning the injectors - the same story.
I am already silent about how many diagnostics have been made since operation. The parameters are always normal, but to the question “why doesn’t it work?” There are no exact answers. "Try changing this, doing that, checking the marks."
Like a fool, I've been checking my timing marks almost every month for several years now - in case they suddenly get misaligned?
If only I had known earlier what the result of this troubleshooting would lead to(
What is most interesting is that all the repairs performed were typical for the operation of a LADA car, but only now I understand that most of them were in vain.
Perhaps I would have continued to drive like this, but since last week the car stopped driving altogether. It accelerates only at a quarter of the gas, and then in a straight line, and when starting from a stop uphill, where you need to give more gas, it completely choke (it hums and goes 1-2 km/h).Maybe there are GURUs and SENSEIs among you who can tell you what the reason is?
PS I have extensive experience in operating the domestic automobile industry, and I myself am a mechanic by profession, I thought that LADA cars had been studied inside and out. He practically did the repairs himself, and the signs seemed to be characteristic. BUT THIS CASE BROUGHT ME TO my KNEES.
What is "failure"? This is an effect in which the car does not accelerate when you press the gas pedal. Usually the failure lasts a few seconds, and then the “jerk” effect occurs. This is a fairly common malfunction associated with the fuel injection system. On Kalina, it does not occur often, but it does happen.
Video about gas failures on an injection engine:
This video material will talk about such a malfunction as gas leaks, the causes of occurrence, methods of elimination, and also contains some recommendations for car owners.
Drop in speed and failure of the gas pedal
There are few reasons for the phenomenon of “failure” when pressing the gas pedal. Often it appears after unsuccessful engine chip tuning and is accompanied by, but there are other problems directly with injection. So, let’s look at the main reasons for the “failure” effect:
- Injectors. The fuel distribution system directly affects engine performance.
Clogged injectors
- Damage to the injector .
- Out of order fuel supply system .
- Temperature sensor wear engine and mixture enrichment.
- Errors in the electronic engine control unit.
Identifying and eliminating ECU errors
- Spark plug
. This is the most common cause of accelerator pedal failure.
Condition of the candles. On the left the mixture is too rich, on the right it is too lean.
These are all the main reasons that can lead to gas pedal failure.
Dips during acceleration
Once the causes are considered, we can consider how to deal with the problem. So, let’s describe step by step what needs to be done when the gas pedal has dips during acceleration:
- The first step is to check the spark plugs. The appearance of carbon deposits or spark plugs that are too clean indicate that the mixture is not adjusted correctly. It is worth adjusting the correct amount of fuel mixture.
- Ignition wires can also cause the vehicle to malfunction.
- A clogged throttle can lead to failures during acceleration.
- The condition of the air filter affects the formation of the mixture, so it is worth changing it on time.
Air filter clogged
- The fuel pump (), as well as the condition of the fuel filter, can affect injection. Therefore, in case of failures, it is necessary to diagnose them. To diagnose and check its operation, as well as the condition of the mesh filter.
Dirty fuel filter
- ECU errors can also lead to accelerator failures.
- The last reason is clogged injectors. They need to carry out diagnostics, check functionality, and also clean and replace faulty elements.
Thus, the causes of failures during overclocking have been identified and can be eliminated.
Gas leaks at idle
At idle, there are fewer reasons for failures, but they will have to be eliminated, since the car simply will not start normally, or stall after starting the engine. So, let's look at the work plan step by step:
- Checking the spark plugs. If the element fails, it is necessary to replace it.
Checking and adjusting the spark plug gap using a feeler gauge
All these reasons can cause dips to appear at idle (more precisely, when switching from idle to driving mode).
conclusions
The main cause of failures are spark plugs, but they are not the only ones that influence the appearance of this effect. Some car enthusiasts may not be able to cope with the occurrence of such malfunctions on their own, and it is necessary to go to a car service center, where they will carry out high-quality diagnostics and also fix the problem. But at the same time, it is worth considering that you will have to be generous, since neither the repair nor the repair will cost a penny.
