20.03.2014
Words "Winter" And "Does not start"always stand nearby, because this time of year is a good test of the technical condition of the car.
This is on the one hand. On the other hand, winter helps some drivers get rid of greed and stop buying gasoline for their car at a ridiculous and low price - as in our case with the Lada Priora car.
In the photo the car is already in the process of being repaired.
First, the car went to our electricians and electronics engineers; for some reason people always think that if the car doesn’t start, then the electronics are primarily to blame. But as it turned out, these deep and complex technical areas had nothing to do with it: our colleagues, after carrying out their checks, measured the compression and waved to us (we work in the same workshop):
- Guys, this is your car, there is no compression!
By the way, it’s very convenient when mechanics, electricians, and electronics engineers work in the same repair bay: if something doesn’t work out for us or if we have any questions, we go to them. If they have questions about the mechanical part, they turn to us.
We started checking. There is no compression in the first and fourth cylinders. And then lunch time came - we had lunch, and then decided to try again to start the engine. And then, lo and behold, the car started right away. With “half a kick”, as they say. We looked at each other and didn’t understand anything yet; the further you go, the more interesting it gets? There was no compression, but the car sat a little warm and it started. And compression appeared like out of a fairy tale.
The partner asked:
-Have you come across this?
I shrugged:
- It’s not clear yet, but there are some thoughts.
We wanted to see the picture inside the cylinders with a videoscope, but it didn’t work out. Conducted other checks. Since we’ve been working with Sergei for a long time (he’s my partner), we didn’t explain much to each other:
- Does it look like gasoline?
- Yes, there seems to be such a problem...
That’s why we decided to remove the “head” and see what and how.
Are you surprised? What does “gasoline” and “remove the head” have to do with it, that is, the cylinder head?
You know, we have come across, and even quite recently, cars in which the problem of winter non-starting in the morning was gasoline: KIA Rio 2011. Fresh, as they say. The only problem is: “it won’t start.” It was the beginning of 2013 and then the frosts were not very severe, but they were enough to prevent the car from starting in the morning.
The client told us wonderful things: our car service was already the fourth in a row. In the first, he was given a starter - and changed. At the second car service they found a fault in the fuel pump and also replaced it. The client didn’t talk about the third one, he just waved his hand.
And what’s most amazing is that after replacing the starter, fuel pump and something else, the car started up so cheerfully, the specialists smiled contentedly and saw the client off, warming the money they received in their hands. And then the car sat on the street overnight, froze until the morning and then the usual: “It won’t start.”
We checked the compression of this Kia - there is no compression. Then they also looked at each other: “Gasoline?”, “Yes, it looks like that...”.
But we tried to make do with little expense: we put the engine on intensive flushing and this helped - the car began to start with half a kick.
Well, here, on this Lada Priora, after an examination, we decided that the disease had gone too far, it needed to be treated surgically - remove the “head” and have a look.
Removed. We looked. We pulled out the valves - we could barely pull them out, because they could barely move in the guides. They actually “torn out” the valves, helping themselves with kind Russian words.
We put everything back together, started the engine - it started as soon as it saw the key. Everything is fine. They took it out into the cold, and the frost got worse that day; in the evening they started it up and the start-up was normal again. The car was given to the client. He rode for several hours, then called: “Heaven and earth! - he said - I hardly press the pedal, it goes by itself!
Well, we didn’t celebrate the victory - there was a reason: when the client came to pick up the car, we told him that “we definitely need to change the gasoline in the tank. Necessarily!". To which the client was very surprised, became agitated and categorically refused to do this. That’s why we didn’t celebrate the victory, we waited and... in the morning we waited: the client called and said in a depressed voice: “The same thing again.”
Of course, this is not our fault at all - we strongly recommended that the client replace the gasoline in the tank, but he refused. It's hard to say why. The euphoria of a machine running again, maybe...
But they hoped for the best: in the morning, when the client brought the car, they measured the compression again. Not happy: there is no compression in any of the cylinders. Complete zero. But we didn’t lose hope yet, we hoped that the problem was not too big, this could happen due to low-quality fuel, water in the tank, plus frost. Hence the ice and wedge on the valves. They put it in a warm place, hoping that if it was water, it would warm up.
But no luck, it didn’t warm up, so I had to start all over again: removing the head, studying the problem, which turned out to be much more serious than it was: all the intake valves were bent, and the third valve soured to such an extent that it got stuck in the guide and had to be torn out along with guide.
These are the parts of the valve drive mechanism: 1 – valve; 2 – guide sleeve; 3 – retaining ring; 4 – oil deflector cap; 5 – spring support washer; 6 – internal spring; 7 – outer spring; 8 – spring plate; 9 – crackers; 10 – adjusting washer; 11 – pusher.
Valve guides have two functions: to remove heat from the valves and to calibrate the valve seat.
What we got: valve 1 was firmly glued into guide sleeve 2 and would not come out without it. This is what we had to “rip out” - together. The story of completely disassembling and putting the cylinder head in order repeated itself.
Everything new was replaced and installed.
Now it's time to show the cause of the problem: the valve at close range, where deposits are clearly visible. The valve only worked for 3 hours since it is new.
The cause of all troubles and troubles is visible on the valve - deposits. And this is a already washed valve, they cleaned it for an experiment to understand what kind of composition was inside that old gasoline.
They washed it, but they didn’t wash it, if you handle it with your hands, your fingers stick like good glue and then it’s difficult to wash your fingers even with gasoline. When it was warm, this compound on the valves became a little plastic and allowed the valves to move in the guides. And as soon as the temperature dropped lower, the deposits solidified and, better than cosmic superglue, tightly clamped the valve stem into the guide.
What's next? The fuel tank will most likely have to be replaced, because it is unlikely that it will be possible to wash it of that old gasoline. Well, the fuel lines will have to be washed very thoroughly and more than once. Or change?
Our client refueled in the Moscow region. “What kind of gas station is this?” we asked and heard in response that “at that gas station there are very good discounts on gasoline: when you buy a card for regular service, the discount per liter can reach about 60 kopecks.”
Truly: “the miser pays twice.”
Trusov A.M.
© Legion-Avtodata
Trusov Andrey Mikhailovich
Elektrostal (Moscow region), Mira Avenue, 27-a
Auto repair center "Good Hands"
Ladies and gentlemen, have you ever had a problem where the starter turns, but the Priora does not start? Many fans of the domestic automobile industry have encountered a similar phenomenon more than once. In particular, this can be said about the happy owners of the Lada Priora.
Actually it's quite common problem, which needs to be solved very quickly. If the first signs of a malfunction appear, then it is unknown how the car will behave the next time the engine is started.
The starter turns, but the Priora does not start - this is one of the most pressing issues. A person may begin to panic when such trouble occurs, but in fact there is no need to despair. In some cases, the reasons may be quite insignificant. Knowing what can lead to this kind of problem, you can protect yourself from it or easily eliminate it if it occurs.
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Main reasons
So, a man finds himself in an unpleasant situation when the starter of his Priora spins, but the engine does not start. There could be a whole bunch of reasons for this. It’s worth talking about them in more detail.
Thus, the main reasons for the problem when the starter turns, but the Priora does not start, were listed above. All of them can occur in every Priora. No one is safe on the road. However, knowing the possible causes of the malfunction, you can eliminate them.
Engine problems can appear suddenly. The same “check” that is displayed on the dashboard at the most inconvenient moment forces a person to immediately schedule the nearest diagnostics and repairs. Find out from the article why the Priora starts and stalls - there are three reasons for this, the first is, of course. Fuel delivery problems can be scary when you try to start the car, but everything is fine. There is also a problem with the fuel system, or rather with its regulator, when the Priora is just as difficult to start when hot, although there is also a sensor involved. In general, in this article I have collected for you the main breakdowns why the car will not start - let's go!
Reasons why Priora starts and stalls - what to watch
It happens that the engine in the car starts, and then immediately stalls. This means that all the initial processes are started, but it is not possible to “squeeze” them in order to bring the engine to normal operation. As an example, you can hear that the starter is turning, but the Priora does not start.
The starter engages, but the Priora does not start. This is a clear sign that the starter is transmitting force to the crankshaft, and some other part is not performing its functions in the starting cycle. Therefore, when the Priora starts and stalls, several systems are checked, which begin to work before the rest, starting the engine. Priora takes a long time to start for several reasons:
- The fuel pump creates insufficient pressure in the fuel system. This happens - the starter starts to turn the crankshaft, the spark comes from the spark plugs, but they simply have nothing to light - the fuel has not yet arrived.
- The ignition coil turns are damaged. The coil received a responsible mission - to convert the current from the battery into current for the spark plug so that it would work. Again: fuel is supplied, the crankshaft moves, but there will be no ignition. It’s also worth checking the candles here - with carbon deposits, they can also give such an effect.
- The intake tract is clogged or not sealed. That is, the problem is not in the fuel pump, but in the next “stage” of fuel supply to the chamber. It is recommended to blow out the filter.
Why Lada Priora won't start - reasons
There are two cases when the car does not start at all - if the starter works or if it does not work. Both cases are negative, but the difference is that the signs of trouble to listen for and look for are slightly different. If the Priora starter does not turn, it is recommended to check the following points:
- The battery may be discharged. Charge it or, if you're short on time, borrow a working battery from a friend to test your guess.
- The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire terminals are oxidized. Check, ring the contacts, and then lubricate them with technical Vaseline. Finally, check the tightness of the terminals and, if necessary, tighten them.
- The engine or other components of the machine are jammed. The culprit may be the crankshaft, generator pulley or pump. We'll have to check all this.
- The starter is broken, the inside of it is damaged or worn out: the drive gear, the teeth of the flywheel ring. In order to determine the malfunction, you will have to dismantle and then disassemble it - only inspection of the parts can confirm the hypothesis. You don't always need to change the starter - just install a new part inside.
- Problems with the starter circuit. You will have to carry out diagnostics first while driving, and then look at it manually. Most often, the culprits are oxidized or loose wires, relays, or ignition switch.
- Starter traction relay malfunction. The diagnostic mechanism is no different from the previous version: turn the key to the second position, there should be clicks. The relay clicks and this is normal starter operation.
- Poor contact with the “minus”, the wires or contacts of the traction relay are oxidized. A click will be heard, but the starter will not turn. You need to ring the entire system, and then clean it at the connections, tighten the terminals.
- Short circuit or break in the holding winding of the traction relay. If this is the case, you will have to replace the starter traction relay. Instead of a click, a cracking sound will be heard when you turn the key, and the relay itself needs to be checked with an ohmmeter or touched, assessing the degree of heating.
- The problem is inside: the armature winding, the commutator, the starter brushes are worn out. You need to dismantle the starter and carry out diagnostics from the battery, and then with a multimeter.
The freewheel is running slowly. The armature will rotate, but the flywheel will remain in place.
Also, the VAZ-2170 may not crank the starter - when you can’t hear anything at all when you turn the key in the ignition switch. This case is associated with the following problems:
- The gas has run out or the battery is low. It’s trivial that the starter has nowhere to get energy to start. If the battery is discharged, you will hear a cracking noise when you try to start the engine. And the fuel pump cannot pump up fuel to release it inside the chamber. On the dashboard, the fuel gauge needle will be at zero.
- Oxidation of the wires or battery terminals or connections are not just tight enough. You need to clean the contacts and then check how tightly the connections fit together.
- Mechanical damage to the crankshaft (when scuffs, cracks, chips appear on bearing shells, shafts, engine oil freezes or the generator or anti-freeze pump jams). First, you should change the engine oil and check the shafts for damage, then change the generator and pump.
- No spark is produced. A coil and spark plugs work to create a spark. It is necessary to check these elements, diagnosing their operation, and then replace the faulty parts.
- Incorrect connection of high-voltage wires. You will have to look at all the connections, correct or correct what is already installed incorrectly.
- The timing belt has broken (or worn out when the teeth on the belt have worn down). The only solution is to replace the belt.
- Error in valve timing order. Inspect the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys and then adjust their position.
- Error in the "computer". First check the electrical access to the ECU and sensors. If everything is connected correctly, you will have to replace the control unit.
- The idle speed control is unstable. This can be corrected by replacing the corresponding sensor. Check fuses and relays under the steering column.
- Fuel system contamination. Checking the filter, pump, line and outlet from the tank.
- Wear of the fuel pump and, as a result, insufficient pressure inside the system.
- The injectors are worn out. Their windings need to be tested with an ohmometer and the circuit generally checked.
- Air flow to the engine is difficult. Assess the condition of the hoses, clamps and air filter.
Poor starting when cold - reasons
If the Priora doesn't start well in the morning, it's quite annoying. When the car has cooled down to too low a temperature, the reasons for the engine failure to start may be:
- Congealed engine oil or discharged battery. As a result, the crankshaft will rotate too slowly.
- The water in the ramp could freeze - then the fuel system would literally stop. Pay special attention to the gasoline you fill up with - if there is a lot of water left after it, you should change the gas station.
- The coolant temperature sensor is broken (the ECU will not be able to regulate its temperature). The oxygen sensor may also be damaged.
- Fuel injectors are depressurized.
- The cylinders have low pressure levels.
- The motor control system is faulty.
Diagnose the operation of the ignition module.
Doesn't start when hot - what to watch
It would seem that the car is already warm, and nothing is stopping it from calmly starting the engine and starting work. This type of problem includes the reasons when the starter does not turn. In addition, check the following:
- fuel pressure control;
- crankshaft position sensor.
If it stalls while driving, what is it?
First of all, when the Priora suddenly stalls when the engine is running, check whether you have left the clutch pedal - perhaps you were accidentally distracted by something and did not notice how you removed your foot. But usually the car stalls when the gas pedal is released while driving. Symptoms of the problem are as follows:
- increased fuel consumption, air consumption;
- injection takes longer (the engine operating cycle is extended in time);
- The idle speed control operates with a delay;
- The voltage in the power supply fluctuates.
The reasons why the Priora stalled while driving could be:
- low-quality gasoline;
- sensor error (incorrect readings when releasing gas), most often the idle air control sensor;
- throttle valve error.
Did your car fail?
Car owners complain that their car has difficulty starting when hot. If in the morning the vehicle can be started well, then after a short drive and turning off the engine, you will need to turn the starter while pressing the gas to start the engine. At the same time, it starts to smell like gasoline and stops for a few seconds.
- fuel and air filters,
- installing a thick PCB gasket under the fuel pump,
- injectors,
- water temperature sensor.
If the car has difficulty starting when cold, then the problem may be due to the use of low-quality gasoline. In this case, you must refuel only at trusted gas stations. Another reason why the Priora starts worse in cold weather is that the battery loses part of its capacity. The starter turns harder. The oil loses its viscosity and becomes thick. At low temperatures, it is recommended to fill in synthetics.
As a rule, to start the car, 1-2 rotations of the starter armature shaft are necessary. A vehicle in good condition will not have difficulty starting hot or cold. To do this, auto mechanics advise Lada Priora owners to adhere to the following recommendations:
| Advice | Explanation |
| Pour a lot of gasoline into the tank. | Otherwise, condensation will form. Water will not be able to get into the fuel. |
| Before starting your car in cold weather, you need to turn on the high beams for a couple of seconds. | This step will allow, in cold weather, to restore part of the vehicle’s capacity due to the processes occurring in the vehicle. |
| If there is an injector, then you will need to turn on the ignition and wait. The carburetor must be pumped with gasoline manually. | During this time, normal pressure will be created in the fuel system. In any case, do not overdo it, as the spark plugs will flood. |
| You can add a little gasoline to the oil before leaving home. | The car will cool down, and the oil will not lose its viscosity. When the car starts, the gasoline evaporates. The main thing is not to overfill the fuel. |
Check all components of the ignition system
Working in winter - solving problems
Auto mechanics recommend that Priora owners start the car correctly in the cold season. When starting the car, you should not turn the starter for more than 20 seconds. Otherwise, the battery will quickly run out, but the Lada will not start. To warm up the car, you need to turn on the low beam for 1-2 minutes.
The presence of an injection engine does not require pressing the gas pedal when starting. For a manual transmission, you will need to depress the clutch pedal before starting. You cannot start the Lada with a push, as this can harm it.
If the car does not start, then you need to open the hood and check the serviceability of the spark plugs, and also see if the wires are attached to the battery. An extreme method of starting the engine is the use of an ether compound. It needs to be injected into the intake manifold. You can purchase this product at a specialized auto store.
Main reasons
First, check the health of the battery
“I start the Priora, but the starter doesn’t turn.” Not all car owners know how to solve this problem. There are several reasons for this condition. First you need to check the battery. If it is faulty or not charged, the starter will not turn. The contacts must be well tightened and oxidized. If there is a click when you turn on the ignition, then the wires are normal and power is available. The battery will need to be charged. If the lights go out when you turn on the ignition, then you need to charge the old power supply or install a new one.
The starter does not turn and there is no click - the main reasons for checking the performance of the battery on another car. If the car starts quickly, you will need to check the wiring on the first vehicle. Often the power supply is working, but the starter does not turn. In such a situation, the nickels in the solenoid relay are checked, as well as the generator brushes. If smoke is coming from the starter, then it will need to be replaced.
Due to a break in the ground wire connecting the body to the power unit, the car does not start. This is due to heating of the brake, clutch or gas cable. This happens when it is not put back in place after repair. If the starter turns, but the engine does not crank, then the ring in the gearbox of the first unit has burst and needs to be replaced.
Hot work
Problems with the engine arise not only in cold weather, but also in a Lada that has just been running. Many car owners are faced with a situation where a hot engine does not start after stopping. Some drivers start turning the starter, draining the battery.
Smoke is a warning sign
The main problem is that when the engine is running, a large amount of air passes through the carburetor, due to which the engine is cooled. The same thing happens with gasoline. When the engine is running, the carburetor temperature is lower than the engine temperature. This difference persists only during the workflow. As soon as the engine stops, the carburetor begins to heat up intensely from the hot engine body.
Since there is no air flow, it heats up to the engine temperature in a couple of minutes. The gasoline remaining in the float chamber begins to evaporate intensely due to the high temperature, thus filling the voids, including the intake manifold, carburetor and air filter. Gradually the fuel evaporates, and nothing remains in the float chamber.
The duration of this process depends on the time of inactivity after a long trip, including the ambient temperature. If the engine is started for 5-30 minutes, then a mixture over-enriched with fuel vapor will enter the combustion chamber. As a result, the spark plugs will flood, but the car will not start.
Solving the main problems
In order for the engine to start well when hot, you must follow certain instructions. The main task is to combine the mixture to start the engine. When starting a hot engine, you need to depress the gas pedal halfway. If you press the gas frequently, the situation may become more complicated.
In some cases, the Priora stalls while driving. Typically, this phenomenon is typical for summer weather, when the ambient temperature exceeds +25 degrees. The main reason is gas plugs in the fuel pump. They do not produce normally. As a result, there is nothing left in the float chamber, since fuel does not flow into it.
This problem can be solved by cooling the fuel pump. To do this, you will need to take a damp cloth and wrap it around the fuel pump. This method is relevant for Priora with an all-metal fuel pump. For models that use glass, this method is ineffective, since temperature changes will cause the glass to burst. If prolonged cooling does not help the hot engine start, then the problem is in the fuel pump.
Engine starting problems
Many Priora car owners are faced with a situation where the starter turns, but the car does not start. Before finding out the reasons for the breakdown of this vehicle, it is recommended to find out the principle of operation of the starter. This device is presented in the form of an electric motor with a gear that meshes with the engine flywheel and rotates it when starting. On the housing there is a retractor relay, which is designed to control the gear travel and automatically start the electric motor.
When the ignition key is turned to the start position, power is supplied to the relay and is drawn in by an electromagnet, moving the gear and simultaneously closing the contacts. Thus, the electric motor starts. When the ignition key is released, power stops flowing to the relay magnet. The last element works in the opposite direction, opening the contacts. As a result, the electric starter stops working.
If the starter turns, the battery is in good condition, but the car does not start, then it is recommended:
- touch the wires that come from the power supply. If they heat up, check the contact between them and the battery.
- install the terminals in place,
- check the connection of the ground terminal to the body,
- turn the ignition key to the “start” position and measure the voltage at the connector using a tester,
- check whether power is supplied to the relay from the ignition switch by disconnecting the connector from the solenoid relay.
Spark plugs may be faulty
Otherwise, you will need to remove the starter. To do this, disconnect the terminals from the battery and unscrew the air filter. After dismantling it, unscrew and remove the positive wire from the starter terminal. After disconnecting the connector from the relay, unscrew the nuts securing the last unit.
An important point in this issue is checking the operation of the relay. Using emergency wires for “lighting up”, the negative wire from the battery is connected to the electric starter housing. Positive - shorted to the relay connector. In this case, the last element should work, throwing the gear forward. Otherwise, the relay will need to be replaced.
The car has long become an integral part of our lives. It is quite difficult for many of us to imagine life without him. But sometimes there comes a time when the car stops starting at the most inopportune time.
Faced with such a problem, many car owners have no idea what to do in such a situation. We will try to help solve the problem when the Priora does not start or turn over the engine and what actions should be taken first.
How does a starter work?
This device is an electric motor with a gear that meshes with the engine flywheel and rotates it when started. A retractor relay is installed on the housing, which controls the movement of the gear and the automatic activation of the electric motor.
When the ignition key is turned to the start position, power is supplied to the relay and, through an electromagnet, it is drawn in, moving the gear using a special mechanism and simultaneously closing the contacts, starting the electric motor.
The moment the ignition key is released, power stops flowing to the relay magnet; it operates in the opposite direction, opening the contacts. Thus stopping the operation of the electric starter. Here is an approximate elementary diagram of the operation of the engine starting system.
Where to start if the starter does not turn and the Priora does not start after several attempts
If the relay makes a clicking sound when you turn the key:
- at the same time, the lights on the dashboard go out;
- it is necessary to check the battery charge;
If the battery is ok:
- after several attempts to start the car, touch the wires coming from the battery; when they heat up, you need to check the contact between them and the battery;
- remove the terminals from the battery and clean them;
- reinstall the terminals;
- check the connection of the ground terminal to the body, if necessary, clean the connection;
- check the connection of the positive terminal with the contact on the starter;
- it is necessary to check whether power is supplied to the relay from the ignition switch; to do this, disconnect the connector from the solenoid relay;
- turning the ignition key to the “start” position, use a tester to measure the voltage at the connector;
If all of the above does not have an effect, you need to remove the starter from the car and check it.
Removing the starter
- disconnect the terminals from the battery;
- unscrew the air filter and remove it;
- Unscrew and remove the positive wire from the starter terminal;
- disconnect the connector from the relay;
- unscrew the starter mounting nuts and remove it;
Checking the relay operation
Using emergency wires for “lighting up”, connect the negative wire from the battery to the electric starter housing. Connect the positive one to the relay connector, and it should operate and throw the gear forward. If the result is negative, the relay must be changed.
Checking the operation of the electric motor
By hooking the negative wire to the electric starter housing, and the positive wire to the lower terminal of the retractor relay. The electric motor should start working. If this does not happen, then most likely the motor brushes need to be replaced.
Having examined the reasons why the starter does not turn and the Priora car does not start, we can conclude that the electric starter itself may not always be the cause of the problem. Most often these are bad contacts in the system connections or simply a broken wire.
But if the reason is still in the starter, do not rush to buy a new one. Many faulty parts can be replaced by simple overhaul, saving money. And the old starter will last for a long time.
