The speeds on the VAZ 2112 are switched on. Why are gears shifting poorly?

The gearbox is a rather complex unit that requires proper attention and diagnostics. Today, the problem of poor gear engagement is relevant for many vehicles, so it is important to understand how the unit is diagnosed and repaired. From this material you will learn why first gear is difficult to engage, what is the reason for this, and how you can engage first gear if necessary.

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For what reasons do interruptions occur?

The gearbox is not only one of the most complex, but also one of the most basic components in any vehicle. The reasons for malfunctions that make it difficult to engage first gear can be associated with both incorrect use of the unit and driving on a bad road surface. In any case, if you don’t know why the speed turns on poorly, then this indicates a certain breakdown of the unit itself.

It should be noted that a similar problem often occurs in older cars that are bought second-hand and not at car dealerships. Therefore, if you purchased a used car, then you shouldn’t even be surprised by such a problem, especially since similar faults will appear in any car sooner or later. In addition, if you try to turn on the speed and this happens, but very poorly and with great difficulty, then over time the unit selector may completely stop responding to any commands from the motorist. Naturally, not every driver will be able to constantly start driving in second gear, so it is important to understand the reasons why first gear is difficult to engage.

Below is a list of breakdowns that can cause the gear lever to shift gears poorly:

The problem is that the mechanism does not turn on well, the shutdown is incomplete. This problem often occurs in domestically produced cars and in most cases it is due to the fact that the mechanical clutch cable comes off from the mounting point. In fact, it is not particularly difficult to identify this - if the cable breaks, the pedal will be sunk into the floor and will not move. This, as you understand, is directly related to the operation of the clutch, and not the gearbox.
There was a breakdown in the operation of the drive rod for controlling the gear shift mechanism. Then not only the first, but also the reverse and other speeds will turn on poorly.
Failure of the unit's jet thrust.
For unknown reasons, the fastening bolts located on the side or selector rod for selecting the gearbox mode have become loose. The problem is solved by tightening the bolts.
The transmission gear shift drive was incorrectly adjusted.
The plastic elements in the gearbox control drive have failed or have expired.
The link was poorly adjusted. As you know, the purpose of the rocker is very important in connecting the gearbox and the gear selector, so incorrect adjustment may well be the cause of the problem. In addition, the plastic bushings on this link could wear out or fail.
Failure of synchronizers can also be called one of the most common failures in a gearbox. Unit synchronizers are brass bushings necessary for easier switching of unit modes. Since brass itself is a soft material, it can wear out and wear out during the operation of the vehicle. To correctly diagnose the condition of the synchronizers, you should pay attention to the operation of the gearbox - if a grinding or unpleasant sound appears when shifting gears, then the problem is in them. Moreover, this sound will appear constantly when you try to engage first gear. If only sound appears, but the gearbox selector switches to one mode or another without problems, then a malfunction will occur soon.
Failure of gearbox bearings. Such a malfunction does not occur so often, one might even say that it is rare, but any motorist can still encounter it. If you own a car with a manual transmission, then the bearings could get stuck in it, as a result of which the shaft stops rotating along the path. In such cases, it is difficult to engage first gear; at other speeds the problem usually does not appear.
The box shaft has failed. The unit shaft is usually not subject to operational wear or very heavy loads, but the malfunction may be caused by a factory defect. In the event that even minor mistakes were made in production, the shaft may well break. If so, then the problem of engaging the first gear may be just the beginning of a major breakdown that you will face. As practice shows, often in such cases the unit itself breaks down completely.
The problem of clutch failure is relevant for owners of cars with automatic transmission. There are cases when, if the clutches are not functioning correctly, a push occurs when the first speed is turned on, but then everything works fine. The problem can only be solved by replacing the clutches.

You, as a motorist, need to understand that failure of the unit shaft or bearings cannot be diagnosed at home. Only experience and equipment will help you understand this reason. Accordingly, if problems arise with turning on the first speed, it is advisable to immediately contact a professional.

How to engage first gear without harming the gearbox?

Often, inexperienced motorists, turning the gearbox selector from second to first speed, may notice how some difficulties arise, in particular, how difficult it is to engage first gear. In such cases, a novice driver often tries to turn on the speed using force, simply by driving the selector into the desired position. This should not be done under any circumstances, since such actions can be fraught.

Actually, having noticed such a drawback in the manual transmission, motorists developed a rule - the first speed should be engaged only in order to move away. In all other cases, second, third and fourth gears are engaged. Experienced motorists especially often use this rule, but we would like to say on our own that this is fundamentally wrong.

Any driving instructor will tell you that the choice of speed should be based on driving speed and engine crankshaft speed. In principle, even parking normally is only possible in first speed. If you try to park in second gear, you will have to maneuver very quickly, and in such cases there will be a strong load on the clutch. Actually, just like the gearbox unit itself. Accordingly, you must learn one simple rule for yourself - you can engage first gear when driving only if the speed is low and the crankshaft speed is low.

Theory of gearbox operation

Every motorist who understands the structure of a gearbox knows that all modern cars with a manual transmission are equipped with synchronizers. This element is one of the important components of the unit. The purpose of synchronizers is to equalize the speed of all gearbox shafts. In addition, these elements are responsible for painless and shock-free gear shifting for the box.

It should be noted that directly when the driver pushes the gearbox selector when switching from second to first gear, you can feel an obstacle. This obstacle prevents the activation of the first speed and it is this obstacle that is called the synchronizer. If the gearbox is relatively new or a synchronizer has recently been installed on it, then you will not experience problems with the transition from high speed to low speed. The first gear will be engaged without any obstacles.

But if your vehicle has already traveled more than a hundred thousand kilometers, then this will directly affect the functioning of some elements of the unit. In particular, first of all, synchronizers will stop working normally - they simply will not be able to perform the tasks originally assigned to them. Then the motorist is forced to perform various “tricks” that our grandfathers told us about - these are all kinds of gas changes and so on.

When performing such tricks, the throttle change will act as an equalizer for the gears that are connected to each other. Thus, if the difference in angular speeds is high, and the synchronizers are worn out quite badly, then the driver will have to accelerate even more. In the case when the angular speeds are the same, the motorist will immediately understand this - the gearbox selector will be able to switch from high speed to low speed without any problems. Thus, it will no longer be worthwhile to make efforts.

Methods for engaging first gear

So, if the modes in your vehicle are difficult to engage and you have already understood the reasons and theory, then let’s move on to the most important thing - methods for engaging first gear. The simplest method in this case would be to activate first gear while driving the car. You need to push the unit selector forward without any effort and do this until the corresponding synchronizer comes into operation. However, it should be noted that this method is relevant for most passenger vehicles and some trucks.

It should be taken into account that this cannot be done in most old trucks, since the design of the unit itself does not allow this, since they simply do not have synchronizers. In addition, you need to take into account that this method of activating the first speed is hardly relevant if the synchronizer on your vehicle has already exhausted its service life. This will simply be impossible.

Then the driver will only have to wait a while until the car practically stops in order to turn on the desired speed. Or use force to engage the gearshift lever. In principle, neither the first nor the second method can be called the optimal solution to such a problem. As practice shows, it is best to use the same old-fashioned method with re-gasping.

You can find out how to do this below:

So, while driving in second gear, start depressing the clutch pedal.
When you press the pedal, move the gearbox selector to the neutral position. Having done this, you can disable the clutch pedal.
Then, when the pedal is completely lowered, you need to lightly press the gas with your right foot, pressing the pedal. In this case, pay attention to the tachometer, which shows the number of revolutions. You need to increase the revolutions to two and a half thousand per minute, that is, the needle should be at the number 2,500. Here, pay attention to one important nuance - the greater the difference in angular speeds of the mating gears of the box, the higher the number of revolutions needs to be raised. That is, 2,500 is the minimum, add gas if necessary.
Then depress the clutch pedal again.
Next, the box selector should be moved to the initial mode activation position, that is, first speed. Here, also pay attention to the fact that if the selector does not enter the required position correctly, then most likely you simply did not give enough gas. If this is the case, then repeat the steps, only add more gas.
As a result, you need to release the clutch pedal smoothly, not abruptly. If you did everything correctly, the gearbox lever will move to the required position without any problems, shocks or extraneous sounds.

If you were unable to do this, then do not be discouraged - rarely does anyone succeed in performing a double gas change the first time. By repeating the procedure several times, you will be able to remember everything that needs to be done to correctly engage the first speed. Actually, the same methods allow you to activate first gear when driving in third, for example, if in an emergency you need to brake the engine. In this case, the higher the driving speed, the longer you will need to wait for the synchronizers to help you. Or you need to press on the gas more.

But do not regard double throttling as a way out of the situation. This method can be called a temporary solution, but the unit will still have to be repaired. Since replacing synchronizers is a rather complex process, we recommend that you seek help from specialists. If you still decide to perform this procedure yourself, then the instructions provided below will be useful to you.

Like any car, the VAZ 2110 also has a gear shift mechanism. The VAZ gearbox is five-speed, activated by a lever located in the car's interior.

In order to be able to fix problems yourself, you need to understand a little about how exactly the switching mechanism works, which is why there are cases when some speed does not turn on or goes out. And also know how to fix it on your own.

Checkpoint diagram

The gearbox design is as follows:

To ensure gear shifting, the gearbox contains a primary shaft consisting of a gear block. They are constantly engaged with the drive gears from the first to the fifth speed (that is, those that are oriented towards driving forward);
The secondary shaft is equipped with a drive gear for the main transmission, and it also has gear synchronizers that ensure forward movement of the driven gears. There are also bearings plus an oil sump;
VAZ two-satellite differential, with the driven gear of the main gear attached to the flange of its box;
the gearbox drive consists of a gear shift knob, a ball joint, a selector rod, a rod, gear selection mechanisms, and gear shifting mechanisms;
Jet thrust is designed to protect the gearbox from flying out of gear. Its ends are attached to the support and the power unit.

How speeds are selected

A separate important gearbox component is the gear selection mechanism. It has a special speed selection lever, as well as two locking brackets. One arm of the selector lever turns on the forward stroke, the second serves to turn on the rear.

Adjustment

On a VAZ 2110, it is not so uncommon for the gears to shift poorly or get knocked out. A mechanism for adjusting the speed selection drive is provided specifically for this purpose.

Adjustment may be necessary if:

the box was recently removed for repairs;
one of the gears falls out;
the speeds do not engage well or simply get knocked out when the car is moving.

If you have one of these problems, try making adjustments first. Its sequence:

Under the bottom of the VAZ 2110, find and slightly loosen the nut on the bolt that tightens the clamp that secures the rod designed to control the gearbox;
Use a screwdriver to slightly move apart the grooves in the end of the rod and the resulting gap on the clamp itself. This is necessary to ensure easy movement of the rod in relation to the gear selection rod. Place the rod in the neutral position;
Release the shift knob from the cover in the cabin;
Align the lever using a special template. This is done like this: install a template in the window of the rear speed lock bracket lining. After this, insert the lever axis stop into the groove of the template, pressing it without unnecessary force in the transverse direction;
Then adjust the axial play of the rod in the rear direction, and its axial play by turning to the left;
Install the clamp, not reaching a few millimeters from the end of the rod. Then tighten the clamp thoroughly with the bolt.

Repair

If the described adjustment did not help you, you need to remove and disassemble the VAZ 2110 gearbox. Pay special attention to the fact that the gears with which the first and second speeds are engaged often knock out. Be sure to check each fastener.

They are made in the form of springs, there are three of them. The first clamp is long, it is responsible for first and second gears. Second is medium, for third - fourth gears. For the fifth, the shortest clamp is used.

CPT diseases

VAZ 2110 owners often complain that the first gear is difficult to engage or crashes.

Possible reasons:

often the synchronizer is to blame;
perhaps the clamp spring has burst, the lever is hanging loose, the speeds are switched on as desired;
The stem and fork may need replacement.

Another complaint is that second gear is difficult to engage and often gets knocked out.

Here you can suspect the main culprits:

the second one flies out most often because the gear teeth do not mesh well with the clutch that turns on the speeds;
The tips of the gear teeth and clutch are already worn out, so the speed is difficult to engage. If you don’t intervene, it will soon fly out;
Alternatively, when it knocks out on bumps, the clutch dies.

Sometimes (albeit rarely) when the second one does not turn on well enough and falls out, replacing the retaining spring helps. If the speeds often drop out, some of them are difficult to turn on, which means that half-measures will no longer help - the box needs to be overhauled.

Whether you do it yourself, or go to a service center where they will repair it for you and also adjust the gear shift mechanism, decide for yourself, based on your own experience and skills.

The clarity of gear engagement and the operation of the entire shift mechanism often worries owners of cars with a manual transmission. A common problem is that after starting the engine, one or more gears are engaged with great effort or not completely, it is not possible to change gears, at the moment of switching on, extraneous noise is heard, unnecessary vibrations appear, etc.

Such malfunctions appear unexpectedly, and difficulties when shifting gears can increase gradually. Speeds may be difficult to switch on “cold” and/or “hot”. It is noteworthy that gears in a manual transmission often shift normally when the engine is turned off.

Read in this article

Gears are difficult to engage with the engine running: possible reasons

At the very beginning, it should be noted that the inability to engage a gear with the engine not running may indicate a serious gearbox malfunction, which consists of failure of the synchronizers. The second reason may be wear or breakage of the gears. It is also possible that the components and mechanisms responsible for transmitting force from the lever in the cabin to the gearbox when selecting a gear may become jammed.

To accurately determine the causes, in the first case it will be necessary to remove the box for disassembly and subsequent troubleshooting; in the second case, it is necessary to identify and replace broken components. In some cases, it is enough to carry out their prevention: removal, lubrication and careful adjustment.

As for problematic switching when the internal combustion engine is running, then the list of the most common faults includes:

lack of gear oil in the gearbox;
problems with the clutch mechanism;

Low gearbox oil level

An insufficient amount of oil in the box makes the process of shifting gears extremely difficult, but the speeds must be engaged. When switching in this way, a metallic crunch is heard, and when driving in a gear, the transmission begins to make a lot of noise and “howl.”

A complete lack of lubrication in the gearbox will not allow you to change gears, since without oil the synchronizers will not be able to work properly, and the gears in the gearbox will not engage.

Any manifestation of these symptoms requires immediate cessation of operation of the vehicle and checking the transmission oil level in the gearbox. It is also necessary to inspect the gearbox for damage to the housing, oil leaks through the seals and gaskets.

It should be noted that for manual transmissions of many cars, the oil in the gearbox is filled from the factory for the entire service life. In practice, replacement is recommended every 60-80 km. mileage

Clutch faults

Simply put, the clutch is a mechanism that serves to transmit the torque of the internal combustion engine to the transmission, and also opens the engine and transmission so that gear can be changed. Failure of individual components of this unit may make it impossible to shift gears while the engine is running.

Brake fluid leaks

The design of many modern cars assumes that the working fluid for the clutch is brake fluid. If there is not enough fluid in the clutch drive hydraulic system, then the clutch will not engage fully.

In this case, the gears will engage slowly or not engage at all. For an initial check, you should look at the fluid level in the reservoir. If the level is low, it is necessary to check for leaks, eliminate defects and bleed the clutch.

If the fluid level is normal and no other reasons have been identified, you will need to remove the gearbox to inspect the clutch elements. Usually, when you try to turn on the speed and this mechanism breaks down, no loud grinding metallic sounds are heard from the gearbox itself.

Gears may not engage or may not engage fully if the fault is related to the clutch basket. The release bearing may also be the cause. If the specified bearing does not move freely along the input shaft or is jammed, then replacement of the part is necessary.

It is necessary to separately add that the primary sign of problems with the release valve is the appearance of a rustling or distinct hum when the car is running. The noise appears only when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor. Such extraneous sounds can be present both on a cold car and on a warm one. After releasing the clutch pedal, the noise should disappear. A jammed release lever will not allow the clutch to engage, which complicates gear shifting and can also lead to rapid wear and destruction of other elements of the clutch mechanism.

Basket malfunctions are often associated with critical wear of the petals. Wear means that the basket stops performing its functions as it heats up. An increase in temperature leads to the fact that the clutch basket cannot completely remove the pressure plate. The result is very difficult gear shifting after the engine has warmed up a little.

After removing the box, it is necessary to inspect the basket for deformation, signs of overheating and other defects. If found, the element must be replaced.

Another reason why the gears do not engage when the car is running or engages with effort may be a worn clutch disc.

After disassembly, it is necessary to inspect the friction linings on the disk. They should not be critically worn, burnt or damaged, and the disc should not be deformed. Additionally, during the clutch inspection process, a check of the diaphragm springs is required. After replacing failed clutch elements, the box must be well centered during subsequent assembly, and the clutch must be pumped.

Transmission device

So, the gearbox diagram is quite simple.

There is a housing attached to the clutch housing. This housing contains three shafts - drive, driven and intermediate. The peculiarity of the arrangement of the shafts is such that the drive and driven shafts are on the same axis, and at one end the driven shaft enters the drive. An intermediate shaft is installed below them.

On each of the shafts there are gears of different diameters and with a different number of teeth, while some of these gears mounted on the driven shaft can move along it.

Principle of operation

The working diagram of the gearbox is as follows. The drive shaft receives rotation from the driven clutch disc and transmits it to the intermediate one. If the gearbox is set to neutral speed, there is no engagement of the intermediate shaft gears with the driven one, the car is immobilized, since rotation is not transmitted.

When a gear is engaged, the driver engages the driven element gear with a specific intermediate gear. And rotation begins to be transmitted from the driven shaft to the wheels. The car starts to move.

The necessary gears are engaged by a control unit consisting of three sliders and forks. Each of the forks is equipped with a special groove of the element. That is, the driver, using the gearshift lever and a special rocker, acts on a certain slider, moving it to one side. In this case, the fork on the slide pushes the gear, and it engages. The change in gear shift speed is influenced by engaging gears of different sizes and numbers of teeth.

To prevent the slider with the fork from returning to its original position, the box control unit is equipped with latches. The latter are spring-loaded balls that fit into grooves on the sliders. That is, the slide has grooves in certain places.

When moved to the desired position, the ball retainer jumps into the groove, eliminating the return of the slider. When changing speed, the driver must apply pressure on the slider that exceeds the force of the detent spring so that the ball pops out.

This is a simplified description of the design and operating principle of a manual transmission.

Typically, classic models work according to this scheme. On some cars the scheme may be slightly different, but the essence of the work is the same - the slider with the fork acts on the gear.

In some cars, the slider in the gearbox, which is responsible for engaging the first gear, also ensures that the reverse gear is engaged. It happens to them that the first and reverse gears are difficult to engage. Of course, this breakdown cannot be ignored.

On other gearboxes, first and reverse speeds are separated and different sliders are responsible for turning them on. In such cars, problems with engaging first gear may not be reflected in engaging reverse gear.

There are several options why first gear does not engage well. It also all depends on how the cause manifests itself - it is impossible to turn it on, and everything is accompanied by a metallic grinding sound from the side of the box, or the speed turns on, but immediately turns off on its own.

Poor activation due to the slider

First, let's look at why first gear doesn't engage well and the problem is with the transmission.

Often the problem with turning on the speed lies in the latch and slider. The appearance of a burr near the groove for the retainer on the slide can easily prevent the ball retainer from entering the groove. When moving the slider, the latch rests on this burr and cannot overcome it without significant effort from the driver. In this case, the gears come very close to each other, but do not engage, and the teeth of one gear hit the other.

In the future, such beating can lead to flaring of the teeth, and the impossibility of engagement will be due to the fact that due to this flaring, the teeth will no longer be able to engage.

Knocking out the speed

If it turns on, but immediately turns off, then the latch may be stuck in the squeezed position, so it no longer does its job. It is also possible that the spring that presses the ball retainer is destroyed. Without the force of the spring, it will not be able to hold the slider in the desired position.

If significant force is applied while shifting into gear, the shift fork may bend.

If this happens, then the gears will no longer fully engage, and the slider itself will not reach the stop, which will prevent the latch from entering the groove.

Poor switching may also be caused by incorrect installation of the gearshift knob. In this case, the rocker does not bring the gear to full engagement.

Troubleshooting gearbox

Troubleshooting is carried out by removing it from the car, disassembling it, and troubleshooting parts if it is found that some of them are badly worn. Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the sliders and clamps. If burrs are noticed on the sliders, they must be removed with a file. You also need to check the condition of the springs and retainer balls. The springs must be intact, and the latch must move without problems in its seat. If necessary, worn or damaged elements must be replaced.

You should also carefully inspect the power forks for bending. Even a slight bend can affect the ease of gear engagement.

After assembly, gear shift adjustment must also be performed. To be precise, the position of the scenes is set.

Clutch faults

Often the reason why first gear does not engage well is not the gearbox itself, but the clutch.

Modern gear transmissions are equipped with synchronizers that equalize the speed of rotation of the gears, ensuring ease of engagement.

However, the first speed is not equipped with a synchronizer. If the clutch “drives”, then when the pedal is depressed, the transmission of torque from the engine to the gearbox does not completely stop.

Because of this, there is a difference in the rotation of the shafts and gears of the first gear, in particular.

In this case, it is quite difficult to engage them, and all attempts to do this are accompanied by a strong metallic grinding sound.

It is quite possible that the reverse gear will also not engage, or it will be difficult to engage. Moreover, if you manage to engage the gear, the car begins to move even with the clutch pedal fully depressed. An additional sign of clutch problems is that the car jerks when changing gears, especially if any of the gears do not have synchronizers.

How to check the clutch?

Pointing to and not the boxes can help the car engine. If, when the engine is turned off, all speeds are switched on easily, no problems arise, but when the engine is running, first and reverse gears are difficult to engage, or it is impossible to engage them at all, you should pay attention to the clutch.

The reason that the clutch “leads” is often due to its incorrect adjustment.

The release bearing is too far from the release diaphragm or cams. When the pedal is depressed, this bearing is not able to completely press the drive disk away from the driven one, and torque continues to be transmitted. Significant wear on the clutch can also affect the operation of the clutch, which is why it begins to “drive.”

Clutch adjustment and repair

The first thing to do if you have problems with the clutch is to make an adjustment.

It is done differently on different cars, but all operations boil down to one thing - installing the release bearing at the required distance from the diaphragm or cams.

If the adjustment does not help, then you will have to dismantle the clutch from the car, carry out troubleshooting and replace worn elements. Sometimes, over time, all components of the system wear out. In this case, the clutch is completely replaced - the drive and driven discs, the release bearing.

Conclusion

Above are the main reasons why it is difficult to shift gears on a car. Although, as stated at the beginning, if a manual transmission is very reliable, then more often the fault of poor engagement is the clutch, and not the box itself.

When gears shift poorly, driving a car becomes not only unpleasant, but also unsafe. Let's look at the main reasons why gears shift poorly or don't shift at all. And since the automatic transmission and manual transmission are too different, we will consider them separately.

If you have a mechanic

Gears shift poorly in a car with a manual transmission for three reasons. The first of these is a malfunction of the clutch when it does not completely disengage (drive). The first sign of this malfunction is that the reverse gear is engaged with a characteristic crash. The rear one reacts to this anomaly more noticeably than other gears, because it is the only one not equipped with a synchronizer.

The second reason is a defect in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox. And finally, the third is excessive wear of the gearbox synchronizers.

There are also several clutch malfunctions in which manual transmission gears shift poorly:

Excessive wear of synchronizers mainly occurs in those gears that are engaged more often: these are usually first, second and third. The rear one is not included in this list because it does not have a synchronizer. When your gear shifts poorly, and you assume that the reason for this is wear of the synchronizers, firstly, you should only have difficulties with this while driving. Secondly, in this case it switches better if you use double squeeze.

For those who don’t know what double squeeze is. To shift to a higher gear: depress the clutch, engage neutral, release and depress the clutch again, engage the gear.

Backlash in the so-called “helicopter” is one of the reasons for unclear gear shifting

To switch to a lower gear: double squeezing must be combined with re-engaging, that is, when the clutch pedal is released and the gearbox is in neutral, you need to press and release the accelerator pedal. This is how gears are changed in cars that do not have synchronizers. If the gearbox shifts easier using double squeezing, then the culprit for poor gear shifting is most likely worn synchronizers.

If the gears shift poorly when the car is standing still with the engine turned off, the fault may only be in the gear selection mechanism of the gearbox.

Look for damage or check that it is adjusted correctly. Don't even think about the clutch and synchronizers.

For those with automatic

If your car has an automatic transmission. It will not hurt you to know the modes in which your machine can operate:

The automatic transmission also has a button on the mode shift lever with the inscription O/D OFF. When it is turned on, the inclusion is prohibited, increasing the gears of the analogue of the 5th gear of the manual transmission. That is, if your automatic machine has 4 gears for moving forward, then for more dynamic acceleration it will use only three lower gears.

About a faulty automatic transmission, an automatic transmission is much more complex than those encountered with a manual transmission, and the chances of repairing it in your garage are slim. But despite this, you still need to know something about it, if only in order not to harm it through improper use.

An automatic transmission is much more demanding in terms of accuracy in maintaining the oil level in it than a manual transmission. Both too low and too high oil levels are very harmful to her. Both of these can lead to serious damage. In both cases, oil foaming occurs. When there is a lack of oil due to the fact that the oil pump begins to capture air along with the oil. When there is excess oil, it foams on the rotating parts, which in this case are immersed in it. Foamed oil compresses better and has low thermal conductivity. Therefore, if you operate a machine with such oil, the pressure in its control systems will be low. Which will lead to slipping of the clutches and their intensive wear. Deteriorated thermal conductivity will not allow all excess heat to be removed. Which, together with low pressure, will lead to the machine failing and requiring serious repairs.

Foamed oil has more volume. Therefore, checking the oil will show the level is too high. If you find that the oil level has risen for no apparent reason, you need to turn off the engine and let the oil settle. After this, check the level again. If it turns out to be low, you need to safely add the required amount and repeat the test.

The oil level in the machine is checked using a dipstick or through a control hole closed with a plug.

How to check the oil level using a dipstick

Warm up the oil to operating temperature (to do this you need to drive about 15 km).

Select a flat horizontal area for measurement. Put the car on the handbrake.

Move the lever to select the operating mode of the box through all positions, holding in each position for 3 to 5 seconds, until the machine operates.
Leave the mode selector in position P, and in this position determine the oil level.
Without turning off the engine, remove the oil dipstick, wipe it dry and reinsert it into the tube until it stops, then pull it out and read the readings. The upper limit of oil traces on a dry dipstick should be at the mark with the inscription “hot” or in an area with intersecting notches.

If the level is insufficient, you can add oil through the tube into which the dipstick is inserted. Do not forget that the automatic transmission is afraid of dirt, so add only clean new oil. Wipe the dipstick with a clean cloth from which the threads do not fall out.

When checking the oil level, pay attention to its appearance. Dark liquid with a burning smell indicates that not everything is in order in the unit. First, try changing the oil and filter in the automatic transmission. The milky color of ATF indicates that coolant has entered the box. The coolant softens and swells the material from which the clutches are made. Do not hesitate to change such oil, having first eliminated the cause of antifreeze getting into the box, otherwise significant damage will be caused to the machine. Coolant may enter the box due to a leak in the oil section in the radiator of the cooling system. In this case, the emulsion will be observed both in the box and in the engine cooling system.

The most common machine malfunctions

The car does not move forward or reverse normally. Possible reasons: wear of the forward clutch clutches, a defect in the piston of this clutch, breakage of the rings of the same clutch, jamming of the valve body valves.
There is no reverse speed, forward there are only 1 and 2. Probable causes: wear of the reverse clutch clutches, a malfunction of the piston of this clutch, damage to the spline joint in the drum body, another defect of this drum.
There is no rear, everything works forward. Reasons: wear of the brake band, malfunction of the piston of this band or breakage of its rod, defects in the braking package.
There is no movement either forward or backward when you turn on any mode, there is a shift push, but the car stands still. Causes: torque converter malfunction, lack of oil, clogged filter.
Only reverse, 1st and 2nd gears are engaged. Reasons: valve jamming in the valve body, low oil level, general wear of pistons and clutch clutches that do not engage.

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