The Cherie Tigo crossover in the T11 body uses gasoline engines of 2.0 and 2.4. liter, manufactured by Mitsubishi. Servicing the gas distribution mechanism (in particular, replacing the belt and rollers) is very difficult. This, by the way, is a characteristic feature of all most engines of this Japanese company. The features of replacing the timing belt of Chery Tigo 2.0 and 2.4 liters will be discussed today.
The design of these power units includes two balancing shafts. This means that in addition to what you will have to do, you will need to purchase four rollers for replacement: intermediate, tensioner and balancing shaft rollers. It is also mandatory to install a new tensioner mechanism with each belt replacement: in this car it is hydraulic, and the manufacturer recommends replacing it together with the timing belt.
In addition, it is also recommended to simultaneously change the balancing shaft drive belt, which, of course, will also cost you money. So, we stock up on the necessary tools and perform operations in the following sequence:
Please note that when installing the belt, you must carefully ensure that the marks match. It is also strongly recommended to buy only the original balancing shaft drive belt, since its premature failure can lead to very serious damage.
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Replacing the timing belt. Engine Acteco 1.8.
To replace the timing belt with your own resources, you need, in addition to the skill, to twist the nuts, keys for 8,10,13,15,17 and non-standard keys for 16 and 18, as well as hexagons and two devices (fixing the pin and plate) and of course the belt itself, tension roller and 2 bypass rollers (metal and plastic). All the operations described are necessary and it is unlikely that anything can be excluded.
We jack up the car and put it on a support (engage 5th gear and handbrake). Remove the right front wheel. Jack up the engine (Fig. 1a) until it rises slightly. 
Fig.1 Fig.1a
Remove the expansion tank (pull out the tube from it and remove it from the mount). We dismantle the engine support (Fig. 2 and 3). Unscrew 4 bolts and 2 nuts. 
Fig.2 Fig.3
We unscrew the fender liner (if you have one) and the plastic protection (factory) of the engine (Fig. 4) 
Fig.4 Fig.5
Fig.5 - top view. Using a 16mm wrench, press the bolt on the tension roller counterclockwise until the belt loosens (the spring there is quite powerful) and remove it. Then unscrew the bolt itself clockwise. 
Fig.6 Fig.7
We remove the roller, and then the tension mechanism itself (here the bolt is unscrewed as usual). Underneath we see a hidden casing bolt. At the same time, we check the play and integrity of the bearings. (Fig. 6 and 7).
Fig.8. Remove the crankshaft pulley (unscrew 6 bolts, do not touch the central one) and the idler roller. 
Fig.8 Fig.9
Next, we dismantle the 2nd part of the engine mount (Fig. 9). You need to remove 3 bolts. Their size is such that they pass end-to-end between the wing and the engine (Fig. 21)
Now remove the upper casing (4 hex bolts at the edges and one in the recess in the middle) in Fig. 10 on the left.
Next, remove the lower casing (in Fig. 10 on the right). There you need to remove 6 regular bolts.
If you have the same number of parts as in Fig. 10 plus the engine mount, then everything is done correctly.
We disconnect the explosive wires and turn out the spark plugs, turn off the knock sensor, remove the crankcase gas sampling tube and dismantle the valve cover. The gasket there is reusable - rubber. 
Fig.10 
Fig.11 Fig.12
Now you need to set the crankshaft to the service point. It’s better to put the wheel in place (it’s easier and more accurate to position), but you can simply rotate it using the crankshaft bolt (5th gear is engaged). The task is to set the marks on the timing shafts (Fig. 12) to a horizontal position, while the toothed pulleys will move until the small marks coincide (Fig. 13). There is a mark on the lower crankshaft pulley that should face forward in the direction of travel (this can be seen without the wheel if you twist the bolt) (Fig. 15). 
Fig.13 Fig.14
You can control the position of the crankshaft using four identical rods lowered into the spark plug wells. They should stand up straight. I used exactly this method - as the main one. 
Fig.15 Fig.16
Next, we fix the shafts in a horizontal position using a plate. (click to see) must be strong and 5mm thick. (Fig. 15). Loosen the fastening bolt on the tension roller and use a hexagon to turn the inner part in the direction of the arrow until the belt loosens. We remove the timing belt. We change the tension roller and 2 bypass rollers. 
Fig.17 Fig.18
(Fig. 17). We put on the belt, being careful not to displace the lower crankshaft. Whoever installed the wheel will have to remove it. The belt should not sag between the large upper pulleys and along the entire right side to the bottom point. We set the belt tension by rotating the inner part on the tension roller until the slot aligns with the arrow and fix it. (Fig. 18).
Now you need to check that the timing belt is installed correctly.
Conditions:
lower crankshaft at the service point (pistons at the same level, mark (Fig. 14) facing forward)
The marks on the upper pulleys in Fig. match. 13 (and they coincide provided the locking plate is installed)
If for some reason you are unable to provide these conditions, we will do the following.
The upper shafts are secured with a locking plate (Fig. 15). The belt is tight. We loosen (but do not completely unscrew) the two bolts securing the toothed upper pulleys (Fig. 16). Turn the key 18 as usual, counterclockwise. In order not to bend the locking plate, you need to hold the lower crankshaft (Fig. 14) or the wheel, if it is on, with a wrench. We find the plug bolt on the front of the engine to the right and above the area with the number (Fig. 19) and turn it out. Rocking the wheel (or turning the lower crankshaft by the bolt with a wrench), insert the fixing bolt (or pin, like mine, in Fig. 20 below). 
Fig.19 Fig.20
Please note that if you use a pin, if the crankshaft is positioned incorrectly, it may fall through!!! Make the thick part 2-3 cm longer than the bolt, or some kind of stop at the end. If installed correctly, the pin should rest against and approximately the same 2-3 cm of excess should remain on the outside. The wheel (or crankshaft) should stop. We look at the position of the pistons - they should be level, the plate is not bent (and in place). Tighten the bolts (18) on the toothed pulleys. All!!! You can draw a new mark.
We take out all the stray bits and put everything back together in reverse order. To calm down, you can carefully turn the wheel forward with your hands to make sure there are no stops and that the valves do not “meet” the pistons.
Now some mistakes that I made and don’t repeat!!!
The locking plate should be 5mm. thick and durable (my first one was 3 mm. It bent and the slots moved).
The engine must not be raised or lowered on a jack during operation. Because of this, it shifted slightly towards the wing (see Fig. 21) and I got tired of inserting the engine mount (Fig. 9).
And don’t rush to close the top casing. First start the engine. I changed the belt 2 times.
The engine started once, but while driving it turned out that, due to a shift of a couple of teeth relative to the lower crankshaft, the cutoff occurs at 4,000 instead of 6,000 rpm.
The second time, the engine did not start at all, because the timing belt was installed with the lower crankshaft in the wrong position (an error when the pin was inserted - it almost fell in, but should have rested + the pistons in a level position, a very useful thing for control).
I took all this into account when describing the process and therefore all points 
Fig.21
it is better to observe (crankshafts, pistons, retainers). And of course, if you are changing the timing belt for the first time, like me, then calculate the time: approximately 5-6 hours, no less!
Good luck to all!!!
Don't forget to say THANK YOU!!!
Summary: all the rollers were fine, only the tensioner was a little tight. The outside of the belt is without defects; when bent in the opposite direction, there are small defects in the form of fraying.
Conclusion - there is no point in changing the belt according to the instructions (40,000 km there). According to my feelings, I could go up to 80 - 90 thousand.
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15.04.2014
Should I replace the timing belt on the 1.8 Acteco engine of Chery Tiggo myself?No problem!
Let's start our work by selecting the necessary tools: A set of keys (sizes 16 and 18 are required), a set of hexagons, a jack with a stand (or two jacks), and a plate will also be useful (for fixing operations). Don’t forget to prepare the belt itself before starting work.
Let's start disassembling the necessary components:
Put the engine in fifth gear and pull the handbrake. Raise the front right side of the car and remove the wheel. We support the engine with the second jack (it will need to be lifted). Don’t forget to substitute anything to avoid dents or breakage of the pallet, for example, a board.
- We remove the expansion tank, having first pulled out the tubes.
- We remove the engine mount, unscrew the four bolts and two nuts.
- Remove the plastic parts (protection and fender liner).
So we got to the drive belt roller (We remove it using a 16 key).
- The next step is to remove the tensioner mechanism. So we got to the fastening of the casing (under the tensioner mechanism).
* At this stage, it is possible to evaluate structural bearings for defects.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley ( The bolt is in the center, no need to unscrew it!)
We continue work:
- We unscrew the three bolts and remove the casings - upper and lower.
- We remove the high-voltage wires, unscrew the spark plugs, turn off the knock sensor, and disconnect the crankcase ventilation tube. You will also need to remove the valve cover (there are recesses in the back to secure the shafts).
The most important point is to place marks on the crankshaft and timing shafts (installing the crankshaft at the service point). We move the toothed pulleys (turning the crankshaft) until all the marks match. The marks of the camshafts and gear shafts are set horizontally.
* One of the ways to correctly set the position of the shafts is to use four rods of equal length, lowered into spark plug wells. In the correct position of the crankshaft, the rods become straight.
- We fix the shafts in the correct position using a plate prepared in advance (installing it in a horizontal position). Then we can loosen the tension roller mounting bolt.
- We turn the roller using a hex key until the timing belt is completely slack. The belt can be removed.
- Carefully thread the new timing belt and make sure that the crankshaft does not change its position.When installing the belt, it is necessary to keep it taut (Otherwise, sagging will form between the camshaft pulleys).
- We tighten the belt by rotating the tension roller until the arrow and the slot coincide (Then we fix the roller).
Do not neglect to check that the belt is installed correctly!
You have done everything correctly if: The crankshaft is at the service point, and the marks on the camshaft pulleys match. All fasteners can be removed.
In order to be sure and reassure yourself completely, slowly turn the crankshaft and make sure that nothing is stuck and that the pistons do not intersect with the valves.
We carry out the assembly in the reverse order, trying not to forget anything, not to rip it, not to overtighten it, and especially not to under-tighten it.
The timing belt must be changed according to the maintenance regulations. Don’t look at the fact that your old one looks like it just came from the store (this is deceiving), it may have hidden defects, and even with use, it eventually loses its properties.
In the Chery Tigo 1.6, the timing unit is driven by a belt. The synchronous operation of both the entire assembly and the camshafts and crankshafts depends on it. The manufacturer says that the belt will have to be changed after 100,000 km. It is quite possible that this is actually the case, but it is still necessary to carry out diagnostic procedures in relation to the belt drive from time to time.
Signs of wear and when to change the belt
The fact is that the belt may become unusable even before the period specified by the manufacturer, and the following reasons may contribute to this:
- driver's driving style is too aggressive;
- bad roads;
- local weather conditions;
- contact with oil or coolant on the surface;
- pump failure;
- roller malfunction.
If you find that there are traces of oil on the belt, this means that you need to change not only it, but also the seals. Further leakage onto a new belt will cause its premature failure, because oil has a detrimental effect on rubber. The presence of play or other defects on the rollers indicates that it is also better to replace them, because very soon they will still become unusable, but then the mechanism will have to be disassembled just because of them.
But what external signs indicate that this consumable needs to be replaced immediately:
- the surface is covered with cracks;
- swelling appeared;
- the ends were torn.
It is no coincidence that it was said here about immediate replacement if such defects are discovered. If the belt is not replaced when defects appear on it, then it may break in the future, and this is very unpleasant, as it will require major repairs. Judge for yourself: a broken transmission will cause the pistons to collide with the valves. This will lead to deformation of the latter. So it turns out that if you are too lazy to replace a defective consumable, you will have to spend money and time on major repairs of the car, which could have been avoided.
Of course, you can entrust the repairs to specialists, but this article was written for those who are used to doing everything themselves. The cost of a new consumable reaches 5,000 rubles. If you add to this the cost of repairs, you get a rather large amount, if you also keep in mind that in addition to the belt itself, you will have to change some other parts - rollers, seals, and possibly something else.
When buying a new consumable, you should not save money, since a low-quality belt will very quickly become unusable and will have to be replaced again. Therefore, do not buy consumables secondhand, but rather save on repairs - do them yourself. In addition to saving money, you will also gain invaluable repair experience, which will definitely come in handy in the future.
If you decide that you will carry out the repairs yourself, then prepare a set of keys, a jack, secure the car on a level surface and begin.
Replacing the belt drive
First, remove the right wheel, lift the engine and jack it up. Now we need to dismantle the expansion barrel. To do this, you will have to remove the tube and remove the barrel from its mounting.
Remove the engine support. This will require removing four bolts. It is also necessary to dismantle the plastic fender liner and motor protection.
Now we need a 16mm wrench. With its help we will remove the roller along with the tensioning mechanism. Below it there is a hidden housing mounting bolt. Now we can easily unscrew it. We check the play on the rollers and the condition of the bearings. If it is unsatisfactory, the bearings should be changed without hesitation.
Now you can begin dismantling the crankshaft pulley. When removing the crankshaft, its central bolt does not need to be unscrewed, but the bypass horn must be removed. Now the rest of the fastening is removed. To do this you need to unscrew 3 bolts. We also dismantle both housings - lower and upper. After this, the valve cover is removed, the spark plugs are unscrewed and the gas exhaust pipe is removed.
The crankshaft must be at dead center. It is necessary to move the toothed pulleys until the marks are completely aligned.
There is another way you can adjust the crankshaft to get it to the desired position. We take 4 rods and lower them into the candle seats. They will be positioned exactly when the crankshaft is in the correct position. We fix the shafts with a special metal plate. Loosen the tension roller and turn it until the belt loosens. For turning we use a hexagon. Now the belt can be easily removed.
Now we begin to install the new consumables. During this, make sure that the crankshaft does not move. Rotate the tension roller to tighten the belt. The tension should be optimal: the belt should not sag, it should not be over-tightened, and the slots should be aligned with the arrow. The marks on the upper pulleys should line up. If this does not happen, then the assembly is assembled incorrectly. The lower crankshaft should be at dead center. Now we loosen the bolts securing the toothed pulleys. The lower crankshaft must be secured with a key. This is done so that the fixing plate does not bend.
We unscrew the plug bolt on the engine. It is located on its front part. We rotate the lower crankshaft and fix it with a pin. Checking the pistons. They should stand straight. After this, all bolts are tightened and all components are assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.
Replacement using the 1.8 engine as an example (similar for 1.6)
Do-it-yourself Chery Tigo 1.8 requires a set of keys that contains keys for “16” and “18”, and hexagons, as well as two devices, a plate and a pin, of course, you will also need the belt itself (orig. 481H1007073BA) with rollers (tensioner 473H1007060AB and bypass 481H1007070).
That's it, we can get started, the first thing we do is raise our car, put it on a support (turn on 5th gear and raise the handbrake). The right front wheel needs to be removed. The engine also needs to be jacked up to raise it.
The expansion tank is removed, the tube is pulled out of it, and then we remove it from the mount.
The engine support is dismantled; to do this, you need to unscrew 2 nuts and 4 bolts. Remove the fender liner and plastic engine protection.
Now, using a 16mm wrench, remove the roller, and then remove the tensioning mechanism. Under it there is a casing fastening bolt. At the same time, you can check the play and integrity of the bearings.
You need to remove the crankshaft pulley; when you remove the crankshaft, do not unscrew the central bolt, but the idler roller needs to be removed. Next, we begin to disassemble the 2nd part of the engine mounting; for this you will need to unscrew 3 bolts. The upper and lower casings must be removed.
Now the explosive wires are disconnected and the spark plugs are turned out, the knock sensor is turned off, the crankcase exhaust pipe is removed, and the valve cover still needs to be removed.
Don't forget to put the crankshaft in the service point. Your task is this: you will need to set horizontal marks on the timing shafts so that the toothed pulleys move to the point where the small marks coincide.
There is another way of adjustment: the position of the crankshaft can be adjusted using four identical rods; to do this, they need to be lowered into the spark plug wells. Once the crankshaft is seated correctly, the rods will sit straight.
Next, using a plate (CH-20010) the shafts are fixed in a horizontal position. Now, the fastening bolt on the tension roller is loosened, then, using a hexagon, we turn the inner part until the belt is loosened. That's it, the timing belt can be removed.
The belt must be worn so that the lower crankshaft does not move. The belt must be tight, otherwise it will sag between the large upper pulleys all the way to the bottom point. The belt tension is set by rotating the inside of the tension roller until it rotates until the slots line up with the arrow, then fix it. Now we check that the timing belt is installed correctly. It is positioned correctly if: the marks on the upper pulleys match, the lower crankshaft is at the service point.
Now the upper shafts are secured with a locking plate, and the belt itself is tensioned. Now you need to loosen the two bolts securing the toothed upper pulleys. To prevent the locking plate from bending, hold the lower crankshaft with a wrench. Now we are looking for a plug bolt in the front part of the engine, it is located to the right and slightly above the area with the number, it needs to be unscrewed. When turning the lower crankshaft with a wrench, you will need to insert a fixing bolt (CH-20003), but you can also use a pin; work with the pin carefully, since if the crankshaft is positioned incorrectly, the pin may fall through.
If the pin is installed correctly, it will rest, and approximately 2-3 cm of excess will remain outside, the crankshaft will lock. We look at the position of the pistons, they should be level, the plate is not deformed and stays in place. That's it, you can tighten the bolts and draw a new mark. We take out all the accessories and put everything back together in reverse order. To reassure yourself, turn the wheel and make sure there are no stops and the pistons do not rest against the valves. The belt that I changed according to the instructions was like new, and it seems to me that it would last up to 80 - 90 thousand.
