When to change the timing belt on the West 1.6. Vesta timing belt: when to change so as not to bend the valve

We prepare the vehicle for work. We place the car on a lift or inspection hole. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the generator drive belt.

Stop the flywheel from turning.

Using a 17mm socket, unscrew bolt 1, Figure 1, of the damper fastenings, remove washer 2 and damper 3 of the crankshaft.

We screw the damper mounting bolt into place.

Remove the flywheel locking device (if used).

We install traverse 1 on the car, Figure 2, to hang the engine, insert hook 2 of the traverse into eye 3 of the right eye, and hang the power unit on the right side.

Using a TorxE12 head, unscrew and remove two bolts 1, Figure 3, securing the power unit to the right mount 2 of the engine mount.

Mark the position of the right support with a marker.

Using the same head, unscrew the two bolts 3 securing the right support of the power unit suspension to the body and remove the right support.

Using a 5mm hexagon, unscrew the five bolts with washers and remove the upper protective cover 1, Figure 4.

We unscrew the three bolts with the same key and remove the lower protective timing cover.

Using a 17 key, turn the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt until the mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley matches the mark on the oil pump housing.

In this case, the marks on the camshaft pulleys must coincide with the marks on the rear protective cover.

Loosen bolt 1, Figure 5, fastening the automatic tensioner 2, unscrewing it 2 - 3 turns, and remove the spacer washer and timing belt 3 from the crankshaft pulley (use a 17-mm spanner and a flat-head screwdriver).

Installing the timing belt

When installing the belt, it must be taken into account that tensioning and checking the tension of the timing belt must be done with a cold engine (15 - 35˚).

If the car has a VAZ-11189 engine:

Align the installation mark “C” of the camshaft pulley with the mark “D” on the rear timing drive protective cover, and the mark “A” on the crankshaft pulley with the mark “B” on the oil pump housing by turning the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt in the shortest angular direction , as shown in Figure 6 (replaceable head 17, knob, extension are used).

Install the timing belt 6, Figure 6, on the crankshaft pulley 1 and, tensioning both branches of the belt, put one branch on the water pump pulley 2 and place it behind the automatic tensioner 4. While tensioning branch “a”, put the belt on the camshaft pulley 5.

If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the cavities of the camshaft pulley.

Tighten nut 4 securing the automatic tensioner with a torque of 5 Nm (0.5 kgf.m) (use a replacement head 15, a torque wrench).

If the VAZ-21129 engine is installed:

Align the installation marks “A” and “D” on the camshaft pulleys with the marks “B” and “C” on the rear timing drive protective cover, as shown in Figure 7, and fix the pulleys using tool 67.7811-9516 (use tool 67.7811- 9516 for fixing camshaft pulleys).

Align the installation mark “F” on the crankshaft pulley with the mark “E” on the oil pump cover by turning the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt in the shortest angular direction (use interchangeable head 17, wrench, extension).

Tighten bolt 4 securing the automatic tensioner with a torque of 5 N.m (0.5 kgf.m) (use a replacement head 15, a torque wrench).

Install timing belt 8 on camshaft pulleys 5 and 6, support roller 7, automatic tensioner 3, water pump pulley 2 and crankshaft pulley 1, shown in Figure 7, maintaining the position of the alignment marks on the pulleys.

Install the tension key into the grooves of the automatic tensioner support plate 1, Figure 8, turn the tensioner counterclockwise to the extreme position of lightly touching the tensioner lever stops. Turn the key clockwise until the marks on the automatic tensioner align and tighten the tensioner mounting bolt. The bolt tightening torque is 30…36 Nm (3.0…3.6 kgf.m) (used: - wrench 67.7812.9573-01 for automatic timing belt tensioner, replaceable head 15, torque wrench).

WARNING. When tensioning the belt, do not rotate the crankshaft by rotating the camshaft pulley.

Remove tool 67.7811-9516 (for vehicles with engine 21129).

Turn the crankshaft two turns using a 17mm wrench.

If mark "A" deviates beyond mark "B", re-tension the belt by first unscrewing the automatic tensioner mounting bolt and tightening it with a torque of 5 Nm (0.5 kgf.m) (spanners 15, 17; replaceable head 15, torque wrench).

Install the spacer washer on the crankshaft pulley.

Attention. When installing a timing belt from spare parts, check the condition of the automatic tensioner. If damaged, replace the automatic tensioner.

Install the front protective covers of the timing drive one by one, first the lower one 2, Figure 4, then the upper one 1, while the upper cover should fit into the grooves of the lower cover and mate with it (use key 5 for an internal hexagon).

Install the right support 2, Figure 3, of the power unit suspension onto the body.

Install, without tightening, two bolts 1 securing the right suspension support of the power unit to the suspension bracket of the power unit (replaceable Torx E12 head, extension, wrench).

Install, without tightening, two bolts 3 securing the right suspension support of the power unit to the body (used: - replaceable Torx E12 head, extension, wrench).

Tighten the two bolts securing the right suspension mount of the power unit to the suspension bracket of the power unit with a torque of 53 - 71 Nm (5.3 - 7.1 kgf.m) (replaceable Torx E12 head, extension, torque wrench).

Install the right power unit suspension mount according to the marks on the body made when removing it, and tighten the two bolts securing the right power unit suspension mount to the body with a torque of 53 - 71 Nm (5.3 - 7.1 kgf.m) (replaceable Torx head E12, extension, torque wrench).

Remove hook 2, Figure 2, traverses for hanging the power unit from the eye of the right eye 3 on the engine and remove traverse 1 from the vehicle.

Install the engine flywheel locking device into the holes of the starter mounting bolts on the gearbox (engine flywheel locking device).

Remove the crankshaft damper mounting bolt.

Install the damper and washer onto the crankshaft and secure with a bolt. The tightening torque of the damper mounting bolt is 95…115 Nm (9.5…11.5 kgf.m) (used: - replaceable head 17, ratchet wrench, torque wrench).

Install the accessory drive belt and starter.

For vehicles with manual transmission additionally

Install the clutch hydraulic cylinder mounting bracket and the clutch hydraulic cylinder.

For cars of all trim levels

Install the engine splash guard.

Install the right front fender shield.

Install the right front wheel.

Connect the earth wire terminal to the battery.

Page 1 of 2

We prepare the vehicle for work.

We place the car on a lift or inspection hole.

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Stop the flywheel from turning.

Using a 17mm socket, unscrew bolt 1, Figure 1, of the damper fastenings, remove washer 2 and damper 3 of the crankshaft.

We screw the damper mounting bolt into place.

Remove the flywheel locking device (if used).

We install traverse 1 on the car, Figure 2, to hang the engine, insert hook 2 of the traverse into eye 3 of the right eye, and hang the power unit on the right side.

Using a TorxE12 head, unscrew and remove two bolts 1, Figure 3, securing the power unit to the right mount 2 of the engine mount.

Mark the position of the right support with a marker.

Using the same head, unscrew the two bolts 3 securing the right support of the power unit suspension to the body and remove the right support.

Using a 5mm hexagon, unscrew the five bolts with washers and remove the upper protective cover 1, Figure 4.

We unscrew the three bolts with the same key and remove the lower protective timing cover.

Using a 17 key, turn the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt until the mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley matches the mark on the oil pump housing.

In this case, the marks on the camshaft pulleys must coincide with the marks on the rear protective cover.

Loosen bolt 1, Figure 5, fastening the automatic tensioner 2, unscrewing it 2 - 3 turns, and remove the spacer washer and timing belt 3 from the crankshaft pulley (use a 17-mm spanner and a flat-head screwdriver).

Article continued on page 2..

Lada Vesta is a compact small class sedan, located on the border of B and C classes, which began its history in 2015.

The following features of the car can be noted:

• Engine 87–114 horsepower (depending on configuration).
• Cars are equipped with both engines with a timing belt and a chain.

One of the main machine maintenance procedures is replacing the timing belt, which is a consumable item that gradually wears out. If you do not replace it on time, the belt may break sooner or later, which leads to bending of the valves. In this case, you will have to carry out large-scale repairs - install new valves, their guides and pistons. This long and costly process can be avoided if you check the timing mechanism in time and replace it as necessary.

Vesta is available in variations with four different engines, which differ in volume and power:

• VAZ-11189 volume 1.6 l torque 140 N. m and power 64 kW/87 l. With.
• VAZ-21129 volume 1.6 l torque 148 N. m and power 78 kW/106 l. With.
• VAZ-21179 volume 1.8 l torque 170 N. m and power 90 kW/122 l. With.
• HR16DE volume 1.6 l torque 153 N. m and power 114 l. With.

Three variations were created and produced by AvtoVAZ itself, and the fourth model is a product of cooperation between Renault and Nissan, which differs from others in the presence of a mechanical chain instead of a timing belt.

Belt motors

Let's look at three versions of the Lada Vesta engine, equipped with a standard timing belt.

• VAZ-11189

This model is the weakest of all available in the West and is a classic eight-valve. One of the features of the engine is its simplicity. Power is 64 kW/87 hp. pp., which is 27 less than the maximum version. And when it breaks, the valves bend.

• VAZ-21129

The engine is an improved modification of the 21127 engine; it uses 16 valves. If the timing belt breaks on this engine, the valves bend because there are no grooves for them. The recommended timing for replacing the belt is 90 thousand km.

• VAZ-21179

This variation is the leading one among car configurations with a timing belt. The 1.8 liter engine has increased power and 16 valves. It is equipped with a special mechanism for adjustable timing phases, which is a forced rotation of the cam shaft depending on engine operation. But unfortunately, a broken timing belt also leads to bending of the valves.

Chain motor

One of the Vesta engines has a timing chain drive. This is a 1.6 liter Renault-Nissan H4M-HR16 DE engine. It also has an automatic valve timing system. The main problems are chain stretching and tensioner failure. If tension problems do not arise, the chain will never need to be changed.

Timing belt replacement algorithm

Replacement with 21129

Main replacement steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the right wheel, fender liner, and engine mudguard.
3. Loosen the accessory drive pulley bolt and remove the accessory drive belt.
4. Remove the engine cover and right mount.
5. Remove the timing cover by unscrewing the five bolts.
6. Remove the accessory drive pulley.
7. Remove the crankshaft disc and front timing cover.
8. Check the alignment of marks A, B, C, D. If necessary, rotate the crankshaft. Check that the mark also matches on the crankshaft pulley.
9. Loosen the tension roller and remove the timing belt, starting at the camshaft pulley.
10. Replace the tension roller without fully tightening the bolt.
11. Install the new timing belt, making sure the timing marks match. Perform all steps in reverse order.
12. Tension the belt by turning the pulley clockwise until its cutout aligns with the rectangle.
13. Turn the crankshaft 2 turns. If the marks still match, the adjustment has been made correctly.

Replacement with 21179

The timing belt on the 21179 engine should be replaced every 180,000 km, and the pump must also be changed along with the belt. It is believed that the service life of the pump is similar.

It is difficult to replace a motor yourself for several reasons:

1. There are no markings on the pulleys on this motor.
2. The camshaft must be fixed with a tool, which is also quite difficult to install.
3. It is necessary to disassemble a large number of parts to get to the gas distribution mechanism.

To carry out work on replacing the timing belt, you will need to disconnect the lower and upper engine mounts, remove the generator, plastic intake manifold, valve cover and disc.

Since there are no marks on the crankshaft and camshaft, they must be fixed with special tools.

There are slots on the camshaft; their correct location is vertical, parallel to each other.

To secure the crankshaft, you must also use a special tool that will secure the gear through the crankshaft bracket.

Once the crankshaft and camshaft are fixed, you can replace the timing kit in the usual manner.

Replacement with 11189

Replacing the belt on engine 11189 is the easiest of all Lada Vesta engines.

1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the right front wheel.
3. Check that the marks match.
4. Remove the timing belt protective cover.
5. Remove the alternator belt pulley and loosen the tension roller.
6. Remove the timing belt.
7. Install the new tension roller without fully tightening it.
8. Install the new belt, starting at the camshaft pulley.
9. Set the required tension by adjusting the roller.

Which belt to buy

One of the important points when replacing a timing belt is choosing a new one.

On the VAZ-11189 engine, the standard part is numbered 21080100604082, with a standard price of about 300 rubles. It is produced in Poland (Gates company). The most popular analogue would be part VT25009 from China (VKT company), whose price varies around 250–300 rubles.

On the VAZ-21179 and 21129 models, the factory standard will be part number 8201069699, with Renault symbols. Country of manufacture – Poland (Gates), the price is in the range of 1100–1300 rubles. Three options will be proven analogues on vesta without negative reviews:

CONTITECH CT 1179- a German-made part, the quality is not inferior to the original, and the price is 2.5 times cheaper (760 rubles). Is more often used than the original.
Gates 5671 XS – Polish part, price around 1250 rubles. Problems in operation or quality are rare, the parameters are completely similar to the original part.
Bosch 1987949686– version from Germany, price about 800–1000 rubles, a well-known world brand. Mainly used in Renault cars.
Belt replacement interval

What are the dangers of incorrect installation?

Improper replacement of the gas distribution mechanism on a Lada Vesta can lead to damage to the valves in the event of a break. And also, this leads to faster wear of all engine parts associated with the timing system. If you are not confident in your abilities, you should seek the help of a specialist. This will cost approximately 5–6 thousand rubles.

Lada Vesta made its debut in the domestic automotive arena in 2015. The manufacturer had high expectations for the new model: Vesta was supposed to completely change the idea of ​​the Russian automobile industry. Today we can say that AvtoVAZ engineers coped with their task. A car with a different design from previous models has become competitive.

The popularity of the car is growing, as evidenced by the fact that only in the first month of 2018, Lada Vesta surpassed its competitors in sales volume. Before buying a car, it will not be superfluous to find out what the service life of the Lada Vesta 1.6, 1.8 engine is.

Powertrain options

The car was initially equipped with three different power units: two engines with a displacement of 1.6 liters and one 1.8 liter. The AvtoVAZ plant designed the so-called 27th and 29th engines, or their full markings - 21127 and 21129. The first one had to be abandoned over time. The VAZ-21127 engine had a long service life and good technical characteristics, but its non-compliance with Euro-4 standards forced AvtoVAZ engineers to look for a way out of this situation. The solution was found in the following - to bring environmental performance to perfection by modernizing the engine.

The difference between these two power units is as follows:

• The compression ratio was reduced from 11.0 to 10.45 in the 29th engine;
• The control unit controller received new firmware with a completely different algorithm;
• The exhaust and resonance starting system has undergone modernization;
• The parts of the connecting rod and piston group have been lightened.

The new engine has joined the ranks of 16-valve engines. In general, the manufacturer managed to technically improve the Lada Vesta engine without changing the displacement or loss of power. You can also find a modification with a Nissan HR16 DE power unit under the hood. It was designed with the help of foreign engineers. The Nissan engine works effortlessly on both the AI-92 and AI-95. At the same time, the internal combustion engine was equipped with a chain instead of a timing belt, which allowed it to outperform its counterpart somewhat in terms of actual service life.

How long does the engine run on the Lada Vesta?

According to the manufacturer, the service life of the VAZ-21127 engine is more than 200 thousand km. In fact, the engine can go much further without any hassle. The car owner’s tasks include timely oil changes, refueling with high-quality fuel, and periodically checking the belt tension. The VAZ-21129 modification, thanks to its more advanced and simplified design, has a longer service life - 250 thousand km. The motor is equipped with hydraulic compensators, so there is no need to “adjust” the valves.

The 1.8-liter Nissan engine received a larger piston, a larger crank radius, and more economical oil channels. Also, the absence of a timing belt and the presence of a chain contributes to the service life of the Lada Vesta engine. The imported assembly serves uninterruptedly for about 280 thousand km, allowing the owner to save on replacing consumables. This engine modification allows for modernization and tuning. The owner of a Lada Vesta can equip his car with LPG.

Real indicators based on reviews from car owners

The standard 1.6-liter engine is paired with a 5-speed manual transmission and a robot. The quality of the transmission as a whole does not cause any complaints from owners. Also, drivers often wonder what kind of gasoline is best to fill in the Lada Vesta? The manufacturer recommends refueling only with 95-octane gasoline; this information can be found in the vehicle documentation. This is important to take into account, because the nominal resource was determined taking into account many indicators, in particular, taking into account the octane number of the fuel.

Motor 1.6

1. Egor, Moscow. I've been driving Vesta since 2016, 1.6 engine, current mileage is 25 thousand km. When buying a domestic car, I was, of course, interested in the resource of the main power unit. The dealership assured that Vesta can cover more than 200 thousand km without problems. So far I have not had any problems with any breakdowns. I change the oil on time and fill up with AI-95 gasoline. A friend’s VAZ-2109 has driven about 400 thousand, so I think that the lifespan of the car depends on the owner himself.
2. Maxim, Rostov. I purchased a Lada Vesta 1.6 in 2015 and have already covered about 50 thousand km. In my opinion, it turned out to be a great car. AvtoVAZ has really reached a new level, producing cars of European level. The engine runs like a clock, I use Lukoil Lux 5W40 oil. I think that the real life of the engine before major overhaul is about 250 thousand.
3. Gennady, Voronezh. Before switching to Lada Vesta, I spent a lot of time driving a VAZ-21099. I spent 200 thousand and then carried out the first major overhaul. I have no doubts about the quality of our engines. On the same KIA Rio, the manufacturer assured the same mileage as on the Vesta. I’m almost sure that our car is in no way inferior to the “Korean” in terms of power unit reliability.

The service life of the VAZ-21129 engine is about 200-250 thousand km, after which further operation of the power unit is possible only if the driver devotes the proper amount of time to the car, undergoes scheduled maintenance, and carries out timely replacement of engine oil and air filters.

Motor 1.8

1. Yuri, Ekaterinburg. I've been driving a Lada Vesta 1.8 for two years now. What can I say about the car, I don’t particularly like the interior, they could have done better, but the build quality of the engine is at an acceptable level. It works quieter than the “Korean” one; the robot sometimes “thinks” for too long, but not critically. Generally speaking, for two years the car has not caused me any trouble. There is no doubt about the resource that over 200,000 km. I myself saw the “nine”, which traveled more than 400,000 km.
2. Stanislav, Astrakhan. I try not to turn the engine over 3000 rpm, I drive calmly. Driving the West I relax and have fun. A revolutionary domestic car, nothing less. It remains to live until the overhaul. After 20,000 miles, I changed the oil and filled it with Lukoil, which is recommended by AvtoVAZ. 200,000 will pass without any problems, there’s no doubt about it. Those who have problems with domestic engines need to devote more time to their car.
3. Maxim, Moscow. I have already covered 12,000 km on a 2016 Lada Vesta 1.8. At the turn of the first thousand mileage, the “Check Engine” light came on, I went to the service center, they looked at it, and they said there was a problem with the ignition system. It turned out later that he had filled up with low-quality gasoline. Now I try to fill only AI-95. Although this engine is “friendly” with the 92, I don’t want to take any more risks. In general, the car is worthy of its money, it will last 200,000 km, and then we’ll see.

The manufacturer has assured the resource for this power unit to be 200,000 km, but in reality it can last much longer. The service life depends on the quality of the fuel and engine oil used.

In the fall of 2015, the Lad family of passenger cars was replenished with a top model - the Vesta car, produced in a sedan body. When asking the question “do the valves bend on the Lada Vesta,” you need to clearly imagine what kind of engine we are talking about: a 1.6-liter Russian or Nissan, or maybe the latest VAZ development with the name “21179”.

Here we consider options related to cars currently being produced or those that will begin to be produced in the near future. An 8-valve engine was also developed for Vesta - it definitely does not bend the valves and will definitely not be installed on top-end sedans in 2016.

Read more about the engines equipped with the Lada Vesta line in the material: What engines are installed on the Lada Vesta: technical characteristics and their service life!

ICE VAZ-21129, 106 “hp” (valve bending)

A little history. Motor 21129 is a modified version of another engine, namely 21127. The last of them, when the timing belt broke, successfully bent its valves, although grooves were made on the pistons (Fig. 1). The point is that the depth of the grooves was not sufficient: if certain conditions were met, the valve “met” the piston with all the ensuing consequences.

With the transition to a new generation of internal combustion engines, that is, 21129, the design of the pistons was modified. But the external shape has not changed much, and although the recesses remain, their depth is still insufficient.

Here we considered the question of whether the Lada Vesta valves with the “21129” engine are bent. And the answer was unequivocal: yes, oppression.

In theory, the problem with valve bending is typical for all VAZ engines equipped with 4 valves per cylinder. Each new 16-valve engine “inherits” it. The exception is one rarity - the internal combustion engine of the VAZ-2112, the volume of which is 1.6 liters. There, the recesses are made conscientiously (Fig. 2).

122-horsepower engine “21179” (valve bending)

In terms of its design, the internal combustion engine of the VAZ-21179 is not very different from its predecessors. The working volume was increased to 1774 ml, which was achieved by changing the piston stroke length: it was 75.6 mm, it became 84.0 mm.

The piston itself is now fitted to the cylinder better than in engines 21127 and 21129. The distance from the piston pin to the piston crown has increased by 1.3 mm to 26.7 mm. But deeper grooves in the bottom never appeared. The timing mechanism still drives the belt, and if it breaks, the possibility of bending the valves has not been canceled.

Now we know whether the valves bend on a Lada Vesta with a 1.8-liter engine. The answer will be the same as for all 16-valve VAZ internal combustion engines (with the exception of 2112). The problem with the transition to a new generation remains the same. But VAZ does not intend to return to “heavy” pistons.

The timing drive on 21179 engines is equipped with not one, but two tension rollers. What was done to make the design less susceptible to timing belt stretching.

One of the automatic tensioners may jam, but then its function will be taken over by the second automatic roller.

Pistons that do not bend valves

Piston kits for some “old” 16-valve engines are produced by third-party companies. These parts are equipped with deep recesses. The point is that the piston does not reach the plates and cannot bend the valves.

ShPG elements of different engines (21127, 21129, 21179) are compatible. But there is no need to install pistons from “old engines” into the Vesta engine:

• In ICE 21129, after such “tuning”, friction losses will increase;
• If pistons from the 26th or 27th engine are installed in the ICE 21179, the working volume will immediately change.

The “29th”, as well as the “79th” Lada Vesta engine bends valves only with “VAZ” pistons. But after installing a “tuning” part, do not expect an increase in power. Also, by using non-standard elements, you can greatly reduce the resource (lose the warranty, get unforeseen consequences).

Nissan HR16DE engine (does not bend, there is a chain)

In most trim levels with a manual transmission, the Vesta sedan is equipped with a Nissan engine. This engine is planned for installation on bodies: station wagon, crossover and coupe! Its name is HR16DE, and its displacement is 1.6 liters. Let's look at what the piston crown looks like.

There are no “deep recesses” provided here. Now let's pay attention to how the timing drive mechanism works.

There is no toothed belt here - it is replaced by a chain. It is difficult to imagine the following two situations:

• The chain could have jumped over the teeth of one or more gears;
• One of the elements was damaged so badly that the presence of damage led to rupture.

As long as the chain remains intact, the valves and pistons cannot meet each other, no matter what happens to the engine. The only bad thing is that the chain may jam.

Do the valves of a Lada Vesta with a Nissan internal combustion engine bend? The answer “no” would be wrong - a circuit break is not excluded. But in reality it will be almost impossible to face such a situation. Let's look at why.

Four Well-Known Facts

The service life of the timing chain always exceeds the service life of the engine. This is the first fact, but a condition must be met: the oil change must be timely. In general, the circuit fails gradually, and this is accompanied by symptoms:

• Audible sounds (chirping) at idle speed;
• When the “problem area” passes, a phase shift may be observed.

The last defect is detected using computer diagnostics.

From the appearance of any symptom to the complete rupture of the chain, a certain time passes. And in general, a “defective circuit” can work for a long time. This was another, fourth fact.

Consequences of a broken timing belt, video example

It is noticeable that VAZ specialists, working on the new Lada Vesta sedan, set out to ensure maximum reliability and trouble-free operation of the model. That is why the line of power units includes engines familiar from other Alliance cars. Of course, they have weaknesses, but all “childhood diseases” have long been defeated and by modern standards these motors are considered very reliable.

What engines are installed on the Lada Vesta?

Three power units have been supplied for the new product, two of which are domestic and one is imported:

1. VAZ 21116 - 1.6 liters, 8 valves, 87 l. With.;
2. VAZ 21127 - 1.6 liters, 16 valves, 106 l. With.;
3. Renault-Nissan HR16DE-H4M - 1.6 liters, 16 valves, 114 liters. With.

Problems with the VAZ 21116 engine

This is a modified power unit of the VAZ 21114 type. The improvements resulted in the installation of a 39% lighter ShPG from the Federal Mogul company. The good thing about the engine is that if the timing belt breaks, the valves do not bend. However, if signs of a malfunction are detected, it is better not to delay and immediately go to the service station.

Engine design features

The operation of this power unit has a number of distinctive features:

— the need for periodic valve adjustment;

— frequent replacement of the oil filter;

— rapid wear of cooling system components;

— oil leakage through a poor-quality valve cover seal;

— frequent breakage of brackets on the exhaust exhaust pipe — steel nuts are used instead of brass.

Typical faults

Troubling and uneven operation - to detect the cause, it is necessary to measure the compression in the cylinders. If in one of them it is noticeably different, this means that the valve has burned out. If there is a slight difference in the indicators, the source of the problem is in the gasket or you simply need to adjust the valves. If everything is normal with compression, the cause should be looked for in the ignition module.

Floating speed - usually a similar problem occurs on new cars. To fix it, you should go to a service center, where it will be repaired under warranty. Otherwise, you need to inspect the vacuum seal, throttle position sensor and idle air control.

The engine does not heat up to the required temperature level - the problem is in the thermostat. In addition, even new components often fail. Consequently, the breakdown may recur soon after replacement.

Noises and knocking in the engine are usually due to valves that need to be adjusted. If you hear a muffled metallic hum that increases when you press the accelerator pedal, then the connecting rod bearings or crankshaft bearings are knocking. This problem can only be solved in the service. The knocking of pistons in the cylinders is also possible. This is also a reason to visit the dealer at the service station.

Problems with the VAZ 21127 engine

The VAZ 21127 engine is a slightly modified and modified power unit of the VAZ 21126. The differences lie in the installed intake system, equipped with a resonance chamber with the ability to adjust its volume using controlled flaps.

Instead of the mass flow sensor, the designers installed DBP+DTV, which eliminated the problem with floating speed. Like its predecessor, this engine also bends the valve when the timing belt breaks.

Peculiarities

Owners of Lada Vesta need to take into account possible problems and also know options for solving them:

1. Unstable operation and inability to start can be caused by irregularities in the timing belt, problems with fuel pressure, air leaks, breakdown of the throttle valve, as well as malfunction of some sensors.
2. Loss of power - the cause is a burnt-out gasket, as a result of which compression in the cylinders decreases, as well as component wear (burnout of pistons, wear of rings and cylinders). However, the owners of the new Vesta do not face such problems (at least at first).
3. Valve bending - this problem can be solved by replacing the standard pistons with those of the plug-in type.

Typical faults

They are similar to those that characterize the VAZ 21126 engine.

The Vesta VAZ 21127 engine may start to stall. In this case, it will not be superfluous to flush the injectors. If this procedure does not help, you should pay attention to the ignition coils, spark plugs and measure the compression. However, it is best to go straight to the service station.

There may also be a problem warming up to operating temperature. This usually occurs when the thermostat is faulty.

Noises and knocks in the engine can occur due to hydraulic compensators, as well as problems with the main and connecting rod bearings or pistons. If vibration occurs in the Vesta engine, it is worth inspecting the injectors and high-voltage wires.

Renault-Nissan HR16DE-H4M

The production of this power unit began in 2006. In general, the engine, which still remains the most powerful in the Vesta line (the output of the 1.8-liter unit is questionable), is considered very reliable and is capable of driving about 250,000 km to the capital.

Focused on AI-95, but easily “digests” the 92nd. In addition, its timing system uses a chain that is reliable, so Vesta owners should not worry about its stretching too early.

Typical faults

There are few of them:

The Vesta engine may stall - the reason is a breakdown of the ignition unit relay. Moreover, Nissan has already recalled cars because of this. In this case, you will have to buy a new relay for Vesta.

Whistling - it is typical for many Nissan engines. In this case, Vesta may have a whistling alternator belt that will need to be tightened or replaced.

Vibrations - to eliminate this phenomenon, it is usually enough to change the right engine mount.

A burnt exhaust pipe ring means the car starts to run louder. The gasket needs to be replaced.

As you can see, the Lada Vesta will be equipped with proven power units. All their weak points have long been known from experience on other models. However, the top-end, 114-horsepower HR16DE-H4M promises to be the most trouble-free.

Replacing the timing belt of a Lada Vesta car

We prepare the vehicle for work. We place the car on a lift or inspection hole. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

Remove the drive belt.

Stop the flywheel from turning.

Using a 17mm socket, unscrew bolt 1, Figure 1, of the damper fastenings, remove washer 2 and damper 3 of the crankshaft.

We screw the damper mounting bolt into place.

Remove the flywheel locking device (if used).

We install traverse 1 on the car, Figure 2, to hang the engine, insert hook 2 of the traverse into eye 3 of the right eye, and hang the power unit on the right side.

Using a TorxE12 head, unscrew and remove two bolts 1, Figure 3, securing the power unit to the right mount 2 of the engine mount.

Mark the position of the right support with a marker.

Using the same head, unscrew the two bolts 3 securing the right support of the power unit suspension to the body and remove the right support.

Using a 5mm hexagon, unscrew the five bolts with washers and remove the upper protective cover 1, Figure 4.

We unscrew the three bolts with the same key and remove the lower protective timing cover.

Using a 17 key, turn the crankshaft by the damper mounting bolt until the mark on the crankshaft toothed pulley matches the mark on the oil pump housing. In this case, the marks on the camshaft pulleys must coincide with the marks on the rear protective cover.

Loosen bolt 1, Figure 5, fastening the automatic tensioner 2, unscrewing it 2 - 3 turns, and remove the spacer washer and timing belt 3 from the crankshaft pulley (use a 17-mm spanner and a flat-head screwdriver).

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