Clutch pressure bearing ZAZ 968m. Clutch operation

I continue to walk my yellow zazik, adding variety to the traffic flow of the city. As a rule, the operation of a 40-year-old car makes its own adjustments. This happened this time too. Returning on Sunday evening from friends, our path lay through Leningradka with all the attributes of an evening arrival in the city. After 10 km of pushing through traffic jams, closer to the Moscow Ring Road, the clutch pedal began to fail. Based on the fluid level, a disappointing conclusion was made: there was a fluid leak, and judging by its smell, it was something like BSC. In the last remaining stages of the BSK, the first gear was engaged and we continued to move at a great distance. For some reason, this style of movement was not very popular with other participants in the movement :) What to do? The hazard warning light is not equipped.

Having reached the garage, when trying to switch the reverse gear, we got a small puddle under the car. We've arrived...

A quick examination confirmed the primary diagnosis. The clutch slave cylinder has rubbed.

I began to slowly disassemble the system. Probably for the first time in 40 years :)

There was a desire to switch to DOT, so I decided to rebuild the clutch master cylinder.

The working cylinder boot is torn, but this is not a cause, but rather a consequence. As the autopsy showed, this is definitely not the reason.

While disassembling the master cylinder, I shook something out of it. Reminds me of plastic shavings, but where did they come from? Well, the color of the liquid.

And here is the reason for the breakdown. Internals of the working cylinder. The upper left rubber band is the cylinder cuff, the one that holds pressure in the system and transmits it further to the iron piston. The one that was inside resembled plasticine in properties, but not like rubber. This can be achieved by mixing DOT with BSC, from this we conclude. When the fluid level in the clutch expansion tank dropped, without knowing what was in it, a certain amount of DOT was added, which killed half the rubber bands in the system.

The master cylinder rubbers are more or less in order. By the way, the clutch repair kit that I accidentally found did not have one cuff, and I decided to leave the old one, having first washed it. Which is what let me down later. The master cylinder simply leaked through the rod. The rubber band on the piston is in the upper left corner. I decided not to fuss and replaced the entire master cylinder, I also found it by chance :)

A hellish mixture of DOT + BSK + idk what. A liter bottle of DOT-4 was enough for everything.

For normal operation of the clutch mechanism and its drive, it is necessary to maintain within the required limits the free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork and the full stroke of the piston rod of the working cylinder when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way.

The free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork is determined by the gap between the thrust bearing and the heel of the release levers. This gap should be 2.4...3.4 mm. If the clearance is insufficient or absent, the end of the thrust bearing will contact the heel, which will not make it possible to fully press the pressure plate against the driven one. As a result, slipping of the clutch is inevitable and, as a result, rapid wear of the thrust bearing.

If the specified gap is too large, this leads to incomplete disengagement of the clutch (the clutch “drives”), which makes it difficult to shift gears, can cause breakage of gear teeth and increased wear of the gearbox synchronizer locking rings.

As the clutch friction linings wear, the thickness of the driven disc decreases. At the same time, the pressure plate approaches the flywheel and the gap between the heel and the thrust bearing, and therefore the free play of the outer end of the clutch release fork and the clutch pedal, decreases. Under no circumstances should you adjust the free play by rotating the adjusting nuts 18 (see Fig. 77) of the fingers 19, as this can lead to misalignment of the heel /5 and release levers 16.

The misalignment of the heel and levers, in turn, will cause a misalignment of the pressure plate 5 when disengaging the clutch, which makes it difficult to disengage the clutch, and the clutch begins to “drive”, making it difficult to change gears.

Rice. 80. Clutch release mechanism: 1 - clutch housing; 2, 8 - lower and upper axle bushings; 3 - fork axle with lever assembly; 4 - spring; 5 - clutch release fork; 6 - adjusting washer; 7 - spring ring; 9, 10 - lower and upper tides; 11 - thrust bearing cage; 12 - thrust bearing; 13 - connecting link: 14 - nut; 15 - washer; 16 - fork mounting wedge.

CLUTCH DESIGN FEATURES

The car is equipped with a dry single-plate clutch with coil springs located along the periphery and a torsional vibration damper (damper) on the driven disc. The outer diameter of the friction linings of the disc is 190 mm. The clutch is controlled using a hydraulic release drive from the foot pedal.

The clutch (Fig. 77) consists of two main parts: a pressure plate 5 assembled with a casing and clutch release levers and a driven disk 4. The disks are enclosed in a cast crankcase 10, shaped like a bell.

To reduce wear, the working surfaces of the support washers and the heel 15 are impregnated with a solid lubricant, molybdenum disulfide, during the manufacturing process. The clutch mechanism is housed in a stamped steel housing, connected to the engine flywheel by two locating pins and six bolts with spring washers.

Rice. 77. Clutch: 1 - flywheel; 2 - lock washer; 3 - clutch mounting bolt; 4 - driven disk; 5 - pressure disk; 6 - spring; 7 - flywheel bolt; 8 - clutch release bearing; 9 - cuff; 10 - clutch housing; 11 - drive shaft of the gearbox; 12 - roller bearing; 13 - bearing cuff; 14 - plug; 15 - heel; 16 - lever; 17 - thrust stand; 18 - adjusting pin nut; 19 - finger; 20 - spring plate of the driven disk arising from instantaneous dynamic loads during a sharp change in speed.

The pressure plate with housing assembly is balanced statically, the permissible imbalance is no more than 20 g-cm. Increased imbalance is eliminated by drilling the metal in the radial direction along the outer diameter of the pressure disk 10. The metal is removed with a drill with a diameter of 7 mm (drilling depth up to 6 mm) with a distance from the working end of the disk to the drilling center of 6 mm.

When balancing, the pressure plate (Fig. 78) is installed on the control holes a. After balancing, markings are applied to the pressure plate and casing to prevent displacement during reassembly and thereby disturbing the balancing. Marks b are applied on one of the protrusions of the pressure plate and on a flat area of the surface of the clutch housing.

The driven disk (Fig. 79), which transmits rotation from the engine to the drive shaft of the gearbox, has a damper (damper) designed to eliminate the harmful effects of torsional vibrations of the engine crankshaft in the vehicle transmission, as well as to reduce stress in the transmission elements,

Rice. 78. Clutch pressure plate with housing assembly:

1 - casing assembly; 2 - pressure disk with three protrusions; 3 - support washer; 4 - adjusting nut; 5 - finger pressure disk; 6 - thrust lever support; 7 - pressure plate lever; 8 - heel of levers; 9 - clutch pressure spring cup; 10 - thermal insulation gasket; 11 - pressure spring; 12 - heel spring; a - control holes; b - marks on the casing and disk during static balancing; B - drill a hole with a diameter of 7 mm to a depth of 6 mm with a free distance between centers; D - when drilling, maintain a size of 6 mm.

After assembly, the driven disk is balanced statically: the permissible balance is no more than 15 g-cm. Increased imbalance is eliminated by installing balancing weights on the light side into the holes in the driven disk, which are located in the spaces between the spring plates. Balance weights should be installed as shown in fig. 79. To secure the weights, their ends are riveted. Depending on the imbalance value of the driven disks, weights with different head heights are used to balance them.

For the manufacture of balancing weights, bar steel or brass of any grade that can be easily riveted can be used. If necessary, to facilitate riveting, the balancing weights can be annealed. During static balancing, in the case of a large imbalance, it is allowed to remove the material of the friction linings 2 from the end 12 to a depth of 2 mm (see Fig. 79).

The clutch housing is bell-shaped, made of magnesium alloy ML-5. The closed shape of the crankcase significantly increases the rigidity of the structure, and therefore increases the reliability of the clutch and gearbox. Centering of the clutch housing relative to the engine crankcase is carried out with an annular groove with a diameter of 319+0.05 mm and a depth of 5.0...5.5 mm. The seats of the clutch housing and gearbox housing are processed together, so the clutch housing is not interchangeable.

The clutch housing is attached to the gearbox housing using eight studs with nuts, and is centered on two control pins. During assembly, the connection cavities between them are lubricated with UN-25 sealing paste.

To prevent the penetration of lubricant from the gearbox housing into the clutch housing, a cuff 9 is pressed into the central hole in the rear wall of the clutch housing (see Fig. 77) with a low-flow thread on the working edge, which is directed towards the gearbox housing (towards the oil). When replacing the cuff, its working edge must be lubricated with gearbox oil.

Rice. 79. Clutch driven disc assembly: 1 - spring plate; 2 - friction lining; 3, 4 - rivets; 5 - damper spring; 6 - hub; 7 - damper ring; 8 - damper plate; 9 - finger; 10 - driven disk; 11 - installation location of balancing weights; 12 - places for removing friction lining material during static balancing; B - free size; G - size in a compressed state under the pressure of pressure springs

On the inner surface of the rear wall of the crankcase (Fig. 80) there are bosses 9 and 10. Polyamide bushings 2 and 8 are installed in the holes of the bosses and the axis 3 of the clutch release fork is mounted. The axial movement of axis 3 is set to 0.1...0.5 mm by selecting adjusting washers 6 and is limited by the locking ring 7.

On axis 3 there is a clutch release fork 5, which is secured by a spacer wedge 16 with a spring washer 15 and a nut 14, which is tightened with a force of 2.2...3.2 kgf-m.

The return spring 4 returns the fork 5 with the axis 3 of the fork and lever when the clutch is engaged and ensures free movement of the clutch pedal. Spring 4 is loosely placed on the fork axis 3, one end rests against the crankcase wall 1, and the other, with a special mustache, grabs the fork 5.

In the fork solution 5 there is a cast iron cage 11, into which a sealed ball clutch release bearing with a graphite thrust bearing 12 is pressed. During operation, the thrust bearing does not require additional lubrication. The thrust bearing cage 11 is secured to the fork 5 using two spring connecting links 13.

Before assembly, the inner surface of bushings 2 and 8, as well as the supporting surfaces of the fork 5, must be lubricated with grease No. 158 or Litol-24.

ENGINE BREAKING IN

After engine repair, especially in the case of replacing parts of the crank mechanism, it is necessary to run it in before starting operation. The reliability and durability of the engine depends on the thoroughness of the running-in no less than on the quality of the repair. The engine running-in process consists of two stages.

The first stage is running-in at idle for 35 minutes in the following modes:

1000…1200 rpm - 5 min;

2000…2200 rpm - 5 min;

3000…3200 rpm - 10 min;

1000…3600 rpm - 15 min

Run the engine in with M8G1 oil or other oils specified in this book. The carburetor choke should be kept fully open. During the first stage of running-in, it is necessary to check the pressure in the lubrication system, the absence of leaks, adjust the crankshaft rotation speed at idle, and make sure that it is working normally by ear. The oil pressure at 3000 rpm of the crankshaft and the oil temperature of +80 °C must be at least 2 kgf/cm2. Malfunctions discovered during the break-in process should be eliminated and the oil in the engine sump replaced.

It is better to carry out the first stage of running-in on a stand, but if a stand is not available, it can also be done on a car.

The second stage is running in the car for a mileage of 3000 km. During this period, it is necessary to follow the rules for breaking in a new car as set out in the operating manual.

POWER SYSTEM REPAIR

Checking the condition of the fuel tank. Periodically, the fuel tank must be removed and washed. To remove the tank, loosen the clamp on the fuel intake tube and remove the rubber hose from the tube. Disconnect the wire from the fuel level sensor. Then release the clamp // (see Fig. 26) of seal 12 and remove the fuel tank plug from the neck. Unscrew the two bolts / and lift up the clamps 2. Lubricate the upper part of the tank neck with a soap solution, after which the tank is easily removed from the body.

The fuel tank requires repair in case of mechanical damage and contamination. During repairs, the fuel tank is washed in a 5% caustic soda solution, followed by rinsing three times with hot water.

Corrosion products are removed by etching in a 10% solution of hydrochloric acid. After etching, the tank is neutralized with a 20% soda solution and washed with hot water. The tightness of the tank is checked in a bath of water with air at a pressure of 0.2 kgf/cm for 3 minutes. Cracks and other damage to the tank are most easily and safely repaired using epoxy pastes.

Checking the condition of the fuel lines. To prevent fuel leakage in the connecting fittings, it is necessary to tighten them in a timely manner. Tighten carefully, as over-tightening can damage the threads and tube. If tightening the nuts does not eliminate the fuel leak, the connection is disassembled and inspected. If necessary, flare the tube cone further or replace the corresponding fastening parts.

Damage to fuel pipes (creases, kinks) is eliminated by removing the damaged area and then connecting the joint using a coupling or an overlap. The joints are soldered with solder to ensure tightness.

Removing, disassembling, checking and assembling the fuel pump. When disassembling the fuel pump, disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines from the fuel pump fittings, having first blocked the access of fuel from the fuel tank. Remove the fuel pump, spacer, rod guide with the pump drive rod and fuel pump gaskets. Check the integrity of the spacer and the absence of play in the drive rod in the guide.

Unscrew (see Fig. 27) the screws securing the upper part 5 of the fuel pump housing to the lower part 13 and remove the upper part, having previously marked the relative position of the housings. Unscrew the cover fastening bolt 1, remove the sealing washer, cover and gasket with the filter mesh. Wash the lid and mesh. Check for any mesh breaks, as well as the condition of the inlet 4 and discharge 25 valves in the upper part 5 of the pump housing. If damage is detected, replace the upper part of the housing along with the valve assemblies. Press the upper cup 6 of the diaphragm 8 of the pump and, turning it 90°, remove the diaphragm rod 14 from the balancer groove, remove the diaphragm 8 assembled with the rod and the central spring of the diaphragm.

Check the diaphragm to see if there are any tears, cracks or other damage. If necessary, tighten the nut on the diaphragm rod. If damage is found, replace the diaphragm. The diaphragm consists of three layers of rubberized fabric: the top two, working in contact with the fuel. and one working in contact with oil.

Check the central spring of the diaphragm: free length 46.5...47.5 mm, under load 3.2...3.35 kgf - 24 mm.

Further disassembly of the fuel pump (see Fig. 27) is carried out in the event of an oil leak through the eccentric 15, axis 16, or in case of malfunction of the manual drive. Using a mandrel, press out the axis 16 of the lever and balancer from the lower housing, remove the balancer 14, drive lever 17, adjusting washers and the return spring of the lever. The axle should fit snugly in the housing and show no noticeable wear. Replace parts if necessary. The spring of the drive lever in the free state should have a length of 27.5...28.5 mm.

Clean the places where the eccentric is riveted, carefully bending the lever, remove it and the lever spring from the eccentric. Remove the eccentric from the lower housing. Parts are inspected and if damage is found, unusable parts are replaced. The eccentric sealing ring must not have any permanent deformation. The ring has an internal diameter of 6.02...6.88 mm, in cross-section it is a circle with a diameter of 1.70...1.86 mm. Before assembling the pump, all gaskets and seals are replaced with new ones. Before installing new gaskets, they must be lubricated with a thin layer of oil.

The fuel pump is assembled in the reverse order of disassembly, paying special attention to the cleanliness of the parts and protecting the internal cavities from dust and dirt. When tightening the screws securing the upper and lower housings of the fuel pump, pull the diaphragm down as far as possible to obtain the maximum stroke of the diaphragm. After assembly, check the operation of the balancer drive and the manual drive lever. They should turn without jerking or jamming. The manual drive lever must return to its original position under the action of a spring when it is retracted to the maximum distance.

The tightness of the diaphragm is checked by supplying fuel under a pressure of 0.6 kgf/cm2 to the discharge pipe. Leakage is not allowed. The valve tightness is checked at a pressure of 0.3 kgf/cm2. When held for 10 minutes, fuel leakage is allowed to be no more than 10 cm3.

Before installing the pump (see Fig. 27), by pressing the drive lever 17, move it until the useful stroke begins and measure the distance between the lever and the mating plane of the pump housing. The size of the sinking B should be 1.0...1.5 mm. Install the rod 21 into the rod guide 20 so that the flat end of the rod is directed towards the drive eccentric.

Rice. 71. Device for measuring the protrusion of the end of the fuel pump drive rod: 1-flange; 2-rod; 3-nut; 4-indicator; B-dimension of drive lever recess

Then install the guide 20 of the rod with the rod 21, spacer 22 and spacers 18 and 19 on the studs of the timing gear cover and, having secured them, turn the crankshaft until the maximum protrusion of the rod 21. In this case, the rod should be pressed against the pump drive cam. The rod should protrude above spacer 22 with spacer 18 by 1.7...2.8 mm more than the drive lever 17 recesses when choosing free play. The protrusion of the rod is adjusted using a set of shims 19.

It is convenient to adjust and measure the protrusion of the end of the rod using the device (Fig. 71).

Disassembling and checking the condition of the air filter of carburetors K-133 and K-133A. Release the clamps of the two locks (see Fig. 33, a) and separate the filter pan 13 from the housing 7. Remove the sealing ring 3, valve 1 with spring 4, glass 5 and valve seat 2 from the pan. Drain the contaminated oil and wash the filter pan with kerosene or gasoline until dust deposits are completely removed. Inspect the filter parts.

The operation of the air filter can sometimes be disrupted due to significant deposits on the nylon packing. In this case, the filter housing with packing is placed in a bath of gasoline for 5...6 hours, after which it is washed and dried.

Assemble the air filter and check its resistance. The resistance of a clean air filter at an air flow of 130 m3/h should be 240...280 mm water. Art. Pour 0.2 liters of fresh engine oil into the filter pan and finally assemble the filter. When assembling, pay attention to the safety of the sealing ring and the correct installation of the valve with the spring and the glass.

Removal, inspection and installation of the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor air filter. Loosen the clamp 17 (see Fig. 33, b), unscrew the nuts of the bracket 29 and remove the filter. Unscrew the nuts 19, remove the cover 20, remove the dirty filter element 21 and replace it with a new one, before cleaning the housing 23 from dust.

The filter element is replaced every 10,000 km. When constantly driving on very dusty roads, such a replacement is done every 800...1000 km.

It is allowed to reuse the filter element after shaking off the dust and thoroughly blowing it from the inside with dry compressed air (directing the flow perpendicular to the plate on which the filter is installed). It is forbidden to direct the air stream directly at the filter curtain of the element, so as not to damage it. The filter element can be purged without removing it from the housing by directing the air flow through the opening of the cover perpendicular to the wall.

When assembling the air purifier, it is necessary to pay attention to the reliability of the sealing of the pipes in order to avoid the suction of contaminated air.

Disassembly and assembly of a single-chamber carburetor (K-133 and K-133A). It is recommended to disassemble the carburetor in the following sequence:

unscrew the fuel filter plug 77 and remove the filter (see Fig. 28);

unscrew the screws securing the float chamber cover to the float chamber body, lift the cover and, carefully turning it towards the location of the rigid rod, remove the cover with the float from the float chamber body; simultaneously disconnecting the rod from the choke lever;

remove the gasket, remove axis 4 (Fig. 72) of the float and remove the float. Remove the valve needle 7 together with the rubber sealing washer 8 and unscrew the valve seat 6. Unscrew the idle air jet 12 (see Fig. 29);

wash the parts in gasoline. If there are heavy resinous deposits, wash the parts with acetone or solvent for nitro paints. To clean the jets, you can use a pointed wooden stick, generously moistened with solvent. Blow out the washed parts and carburetor channels with compressed air. It is not recommended to wash the fuel valve with acetone or other solvents to avoid destroying the sealing rubber washer. It is absolutely unacceptable to use wire, even soft wire, to clean jets;

Check the float for leaks. When soldering the float, appropriate precautions must be taken to avoid explosion of gasoline vapors. After soldering, the mass of the float should be 13.3±0.7 g. Check the tightness of the fuel valve. If necessary, replace the sealing rubber washer 8 (see Fig. 72) or the fuel valve assembly.

Rice. 72. Float with fuel valve: 1 - float; 2 - tongue for setting the level; 3 - float travel limiter; 4 - float axis; 5 - float chamber cover: 6 - fuel supply valve seat; 7 - fuel supply valve needle; 8 - sealing rubber washer

Assemble the float chamber cover in the reverse order of disassembly, in this case:

the idle air jet must be tightened without much effort, checking the integrity of the fiber gasket;

in case of replacing parts of the float mechanism or if carburetor overflows were observed during operation, you should check the correct position of the float relative to the fuel valve. This position determines the fuel level in the float chamber. Preliminarily set the size to 39 mm by bending tongue 2 (see Fig. 72). At the same time, it is necessary to set the needle stroke of the fuel supply valve to 1.2...1.5 mm by bending the 3rd stroke limiter of the float. In this case, it is not allowed to press the float on the valve needle when adjusting the fuel level in the float chamber in order to avoid damage to the sealing rubber washer;

The circumferential gap between the air damper and the cover body should not exceed 0.25 mm. Followed by:

unscrew screws 40 (see Fig. 29) and remove microswitch 39; disconnect the mixing chamber housing and at the same time, pressing the accelerator pump drive bar, remove the drive rod linkage connecting the rod to the throttle axis lever, unscrew the fuel supply screw 4 and remove the accelerator pump nozzle 3;

remove rod 33 of the accelerator pump drive together with the bar and piston and remove the return spring of the rod. Remove the check valve safety ring from the accelerator pump well (using tweezers) and, turning the float chamber body over, remove check valve 30 (ball d=4 mm); Unscrew plugs 13 (see Fig. 28) of the idle fuel jet and air jet 16 of the main metering system, then unscrew the jets. When turning out the jets, you should use carefully tucked screwdrivers so as not to damage the slots;

unscrew plug 8 and remove emulsion tube 9 (see Fig. 29), unscrew valve 31 of the mechanical economizer and remove the fiber washer;

Unscrew the adjusting screw 19 from the mixing chamber body, unscrew the screws, remove the economizer 23 of the forced idle speed (EFS) and remove the nozzle 25 of the autonomous idle system. Check the tip of the adjusting screw 19 АСХХ and the conical surface of the hole, the conical surfaces of the valve 24 of the forced idling economizer system (ЭПХХ) and the nozzle 25 АСХХ, the tightness of the nozzle 25 in the mixing chamber 28, the condition of the diaphragm of the valve 24 АХХ. Replace worn-out parts;

Check the tightness of the screws securing the throttle valve to the axle. Check the fit of the throttle valve to the mixing chamber body; the gap along the contour should not exceed 0.06 mm. Thoroughly rinse and blow through all parts. Check whether the accelerator pump piston moves easily in the cylinder. It should move in the cylinder without jamming;

check the tightness of the accelerator pump discharge valve and the mechanical economizer valve (in case of increased gasoline consumption), inspect the sealing gaskets: replace damaged gaskets with new ones.

Assemble the float chamber housing with the mixing chamber housing in the reverse order of disassembly, and it is necessary to:

screw in the jets without much effort;

ensure reliable sealing in all places where gaskets are installed;

Check the gap between the adjusting nuts with the throttle valve fully open; for the economizer drive rod it should be 4.5...5.5 mm, and for the accelerator pump piston drive rod it should be 1.5...2.5 mm. Fix the position of the adjusting nuts by crimping;

install (see Fig. 29) sprayer 3 and tighten fuel supply screw 4,

install the assembled float chamber cover by connecting the rod;

Rice. 73. Device for checking the fuel level in the float chamber of carburetors K-133 and K-133A: 1 - scale ruler; 2 - glass tube; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - carburetor

check the fuel supply by the accelerator pump, which should be at least 6 cm3 per 10 piston strokes, the relative position of the air and throttle valves;

install the lower stop of the throttle lever so that the throttle valve is completely closed, but not jammed, and the upper stop so that the plane of the throttle valve is parallel to the axis of the 32 mm diameter hole in the mixing chamber. With the air damper completely closed, the gap between the wall of the mixing chamber and the throttle valve should be 1.6...1.8 mm (if necessary, set by bending the rod);

install microswitch 39 so that its pusher, when the throttle valve is fully closed, is recessed by lever 41

microswitch drive (microswitch is open), a characteristic click is heard, when the throttle valve is opened, lever 41 is lowered by 3...4 mm, the microswitch pusher is retracted by a spring, and the microswitch is closed;

check the fuel level in the float chamber on the stand. The fuel level in the float chamber at an excess pressure of 0.3 kgf/cm2 for gasoline with a density of 0.720...0.750 g/cm3 should be 21...23.5 mm from the upper plane of the float chamber.

In the absence of a stand, this check can be performed with less accuracy on the engine, for which a fitting with a glass tube is made (Fig. 73). It is necessary to unscrew the main jet plug and screw the fitting into its place so that the glass tube becomes vertical, then use the manual pump lever to prime the fuel pump. Fill the float chamber with fuel. Using a metal ruler, measure the distance from the upper plane of the float chamber to the fuel level in the float chamber (to the bottom of the meniscus). When installing the carburetor, pay attention to the integrity of the gaskets. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the carburetor while the engine is idling.

Checking the solenoid valve. The tightness of the solenoid valve should be checked by supplying air under a pressure of 0.9...0.85 kgf/cm2 into the side fitting, while closing the ventilation fitting.

When a vacuum of 0.85 kgf/cm2 is supplied to the vertical fitting, the solenoid valve should open with the 12 V voltage connected and close with the voltage removed. If the voltage is connected while the engine is not running, a characteristic click should be heard.

With an engine idling, the valve is checked by disconnecting the wire, and the engine should stop.

Checking the electronic control unit. The electronic control unit has two limit limits. When the engine crankshaft rotation speed increases above 1500...1800 rpm, the positive potential is switched off at terminal 1 (see Fig. 29), and when the frequency decreases below 1500 rpm, a positive potential appears at terminal 1.

In this way, the functionality of the unit is checked, and before this, it is imperative to remove the wires on microswitch 39. The absence of a positive potential at terminal 1 (if there is a positive potential at terminal 2) indicates a malfunction of the unit and the need to replace it.

In the event of a failure of the forced idle economizer system, it is necessary to de-energize the system and connect fittings 3 and 6 (see Fig. 28) with a flexible hose, while the carburetor will operate according to the generally accepted scheme, without solenoid valve 21 (see Fig. 29) of the electronic control unit 35 and microswitch 39.

Adjusting the carburetor when the engine is idling. The economical operation of the engine largely depends on the correct adjustment of the carburetor when operating at low crankshaft speeds at idle.

This adjustment is carried out with the engine fully warmed up. The oil temperature must be at least 60...70° C.

Adjustment of carburetors K-133 and K-133A must be performed in the following sequence:

With the engine not running, screw in screw 7 (see Fig. 28) for operational adjustment and screw 2 as far as possible, but not too tightly, so as not to damage their working cones. After this, unscrew the screws 2.5...3 turns;

start the engine and rotate screw 2 to set the crankshaft speed to 950...1050 rpm;

then tighten screw 7, while the engine crankshaft speed will first increase, and then as the screw is further screwed in, the mixture will become leaner and the engine will begin to operate intermittently with a simultaneous decrease in engine crankshaft speed. At this moment, you need to slightly unscrew screw 7 and achieve stable engine operation.

The selected adjustment must be checked in variable modes - sharply press the throttle pedal and quickly release it. In this case, the crankshaft rotation speed should smoothly increase without dips or interruptions, and when the pedal is abruptly released, it should decrease to a minimum and stable speed, while the engine should not stop. If the engine has stopped, turning out screw 7 should slightly increase the rotation speed.

Checking the emission of harmful substances from exhaust gases into the atmosphere is carried out after adjusting the idle speed on a warm engine (oil temperature 60...70°C).

To check, special equipment is required - a gas analyzer with an error of no more than ±2.5%. The check is carried out in accordance with GOST 17.2.2.03-87 in two modes: at idle speed and 2550...2650 rpm.

If the emission of harmful substances does not exceed permissible limits, toxicity screw 2 (see Fig. 28) of the K-133 and K-133A carburetors must be painted over with red paint. If the emission of harmful substances exceeds the permissible limits, it is necessary to adjust the crankshaft speed at idle and then check the emission of harmful substances.

If additional adjustments cannot reduce the emission of harmful substances, the carburetor must be replaced and the emission of harmful substances checked; If unsatisfactory results are obtained, diagnose the engine, identify and eliminate detected faults.

Removal and installation of the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor. To remove the carburetor, loosen the clamps and remove the crankcase ventilation hose. Unscrew the four nuts securing the outlet pipe, loosen the clamp, remove the pipe with the gasket, and remove the fuel supply hose from the carburetor pipe and close the hose with a plug to prevent gasoline leakage.

Disconnect the choke drive cable from the carburetor and the rod and return spring from the throttle drive lever, unscrew the carburetor mounting nuts, remove it together with the gasket and close the inlet of the intake manifold with a plug.

Install the carburetor in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to adjust the air damper drive and carburetor throttles, as well as the crankshaft speed when idling the engine.

Dismantling, checking and assembling the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor. The carburetor is disassembled into the following main components: the housing cover assembled with a starter, float, needle valve and filter; housing assembled with diffusers and accelerator pump; throttle body assembly with throttle valves and spool device of the crankcase ventilation system.

Rice. 74. Details of the cover and throttle body of the DAAZ-2101-20 carburetor: 1 - adjusting screw; 2 - cover; 3, 17, 21, 34 - springs; 4 - diaphragm; 5 - diaphragm rod; 6 - starting device housing; 7 - telescopic rod; 8 - air damper axis; 9 - air damper; 10 - carburetor cover; 11 - gasket; 12 - carburetor body; 13 - axis of the secondary throttle valve; 14 - axis of the primary throttle valve; 15 - throttle valve; 16 - screw for adjusting the mixture composition; 18 - fitting to the vacuum corrector of the interrupter-distributor; 19 - spool; 20 - thrust screw; 22 - lever of the primary throttle valve axis; 23 - link lever with the starting device; 24 - bushing - 25 - secondary throttle valve drive lever; 26 - damper drive lever; 27 - lock washer; 28 - return spring of the secondary throttle valve drive lever; 29 - starting device thrust; 30 - secondary throttle lever; 31 - throttle body: 32 - gasket; 33 - starting rod

Before disassembling, it is necessary to wash the outside of the carburetor and blow it with compressed air. It is recommended to disassemble in the following order:

remove the spring 28 (Fig. 74) of the lever 25 of the throttle valve drive of the secondary chamber, undo the cotter pin and disconnect the rod 29 from the throttle valve lever 23, connecting the throttle valve of the primary chamber with the starting device;

Having pressed the inner cylinder of the telescopic rod 7 into the outer one, disconnect it from the air damper control lever;

remove the carburetor cover with the gasket, being careful not to damage the gasket and float, then unscrew the screws securing the throttle body to the carburetor body and carefully, without distortion, separate them, trying not to damage the adapter bushings of the carburetor fuel-air channels pressed into the body and the bushing sockets. Carefully disconnect the heat-insulating gasket from the body and remove it;

disassemble the carburetor body cover in the following order: using a mandrel, carefully push the float axis 20 (Fig. 75) out of the racks (push it towards the rack with the cut) and remove the axis, remove the float 19 and needle valve 16, and the cover gasket. Unscrew the seat 15 of the needle valve, unscrew the plug 18 and remove the fuel filter 17;

disconnect (see Fig. 74) from the lever of the air damper axis 8, the telescopic rod 7 and the rod 33 of the starting device drive;

remove the housing 6 of the starting device, the air damper 9 from the axle, and then remove the axle from the carburetor cover. The ends of the air damper mounting screws are pierced. To unscrew them, a lot of force may be required and the damper axis may become deformed. To prevent deformation of the axle, it is recommended to place some kind of stand under it.

After disassembly, you should wash the parts in gasoline, blow them with compressed air and check their technical condition, which must meet the following requirements:

the sealing surfaces of the cover must not be damaged, otherwise the cover should be replaced;

the float must not be damaged or have any distortion in shape; the mass of the float should be 11...13 g;

the seat of the needle valve and the valve itself should not have wear on sealing damage; the needle valve should move freely in its seat; The needle valve ball should move freely and not hang up.

If damaged parts are found during inspection, they must be replaced.

Rice. 75. Parts of the DAAZ-2101-20 carburetor body: 1 - screw for fastening the cable sheath; 2 - bracket; 3 - cable fastening screw; 4 - air damper drive lever; 5, 25, 32 - springs; 6 - fuel jet of the secondary chamber transition system; 7 - jet body; 8 - small diffuser; 9 - accelerator pump sprayer; 10 - valve screw of the accelerator pump; 11 - valve; 12 - main air jet of the secondary chamber; 13, 22 - emulsion tubes of the secondary and primary chambers; 14 - main air jet of the primary chamber; 15 - needle valve seat; 16 - needle valve; 17 - filter; 18 - plug; 19 - float; 20 - axis; 21 - adjusting screw of the accelerator pump; 23 - main fuel jet of the primary chamber; 24 - main fuel jet of the secondary chamber; 26 - accelerator pump diaphragm; 27 - accelerator pump cover; 28 - jet body; 29 - idle fuel jet: 30 - carburetor body; 31 - throttle valve opening adjustment screw; 33 - locking spring; 34 - toxicity screw; 35 - plug.

Next, disassemble the starting device, unscrew (see Fig. 74) the three screws securing the cover 2 of the device, remove the cover with the adjusting screw 1, spring 3 and diaphragm 4. After disassembling, all parts of the starting device are cleaned, washed with gasoline, blown with compressed air and inspect - damaged ones are replaced with new ones. When disassembling the throttle body, it is necessary to unscrew the idle mixture adjustment screw 16, unscrew the screws securing the throttle valves 15 to the axles, and remove the throttle valves from the axles. The ends of the throttle valve mounting screws are countersunk, so when unscrewing the screws, as well as when removing the air damper, it is recommended to install a stand under the throttle axles.

Next, unscrew the nut securing the levers on the axis of the throttle valve of the primary chamber, remove the lock washer from the axis of the throttle valve of the primary chamber, levers 26, 25, 23 with washers and bushing 24, and then the spool preload spring 21 and spool 19.

Remove the axis 14 of the throttle valve of the primary chamber from the housing 31, unscrew the nut securing the lever 30 on the axis of the throttle valve of the secondary chamber, remove the lever with the washer and remove the axis 13 of the throttle valve of the secondary chamber.

Clean the parts and wash them with gasoline or acetone. It is recommended to wash the channels and parts of the crankcase ventilation spool device with a mixture of 30% ethylene monobutyl etherglycol and 70% gasoline. Parts are inspected and damaged parts are replaced.

The holes of the throttle axles are cleaned with a reamer having a diameter equal to the nominal diameter of the holes (8.020...8.042 mm).

If the holes are heavily worn, then it is necessary to expand them to a diameter of 8.520...8.542 mm (0.5 mm larger than the nominal one) and during assembly, install axles of the repair size, increased in diameter by 0.5 mm.

Unscrew the screw securing the lever 4 of the air damper drive, remove the lever, spring 5, remove the cover 27 of the accelerator pump with return spring 25;

unscrew the main air jets 12 and 14, turn the housing over and, lightly tapping it, shake out the emulsion tubes 13 and 22 from the wells, then unscrew the housings 7 and 28 of the jets and remove them together with jets 6 and 29, unscrew valve screw 10 and remove sprayer 9 accelerator pump with gaskets, then unscrew the adjusting screw 21 of the accelerator pump and screw 31 for adjusting the opening of the throttle valves and remove the small diffusers 8, unscrew the main fuel jets 23 and 24 and remove bracket 2, on which the sheath of the air damper control cable is attached ; remove plug 35 and unscrew screw 34 with spring 33.

The carburetor body is cleaned of dirt and oil. Wash the housing and its channels with gasoline or acetone and blow with compressed air. If necessary, clean channels and emulsion wells with special reamers. Inspect the sealing surfaces of the housing; if they are damaged, the housing should be replaced.

The accelerator pump parts are cleaned, washed and blown with compressed air. Check the ease of movement of the ball in valve screw 10 (see Fig. 75) and the condition of the sealing surfaces and gaskets. Check the ease of movement of the moving elements of the pump (lever, roller, diaphragm parts). Jams are not allowed. The diaphragm must be intact and not deformed. Even slight deformation of the diaphragm affects the operation of the pump. Damaged parts are replaced with new ones.

The jets and emulsion tubes are cleaned of dirt and resinous deposits, washed with acetone or gasoline and blown with dry compressed air. The jets are compared in terms of throughput with the reference ones.

It is not recommended to clean jets with a metal tool or wire, or to wipe jets and other carburetor parts with cotton wool, cloth or rags. If the jets are severely clogged, they should be cleaned with a soft wood needle generously moistened with acetone.

The carburetor is assembled in the reverse order of design. In this case, the float should rotate freely on its axis without touching the walls of the chamber, the needle valve should slide freely in its seat, without distortions, the valve guide should not interfere with the movement of the float tongue.

When installing the air damper and throttle valves, the ends of the mounting screws must be opened using a stand similar to the one used during disassembly. After assembly, the carburetor components must be adjusted.

Adjusting the carburetor DAAZ 2101-20. The position of the secondary chamber throttle valve is adjusted (see Fig. 31, b) with screw 27. In the position of lever 28, corresponding to the complete closing of the throttle valves, the secondary chamber throttle valve should be slightly open. The gap between the throttle valve and the chamber wall at the exit point of the transition system channels should be no more than 0.02...0.03 mm.

In the position of lever 28, in which the protrusion of sector 29 is in contact with lever 31, the throttle valve of the primary chamber should be slightly open by (7±0.25) mm. This gap can be obtained by bending the protrusion of sector 29. Both throttle valves must be fully open when lever 28 is turned to its extreme position until sector 29 stops in a special boss on the throttle body. This position of the throttle valves is adjusted by bending the lower protrusion of sector 29.

The starting device is adjusted as follows (see Fig. 31, b). When turning the lever 20 counterclockwise all the way, the air damper must be completely closed, and in this position of the lever the end of the rod 22 must be at the end of the groove of the diaphragm rod 23 of the starting device, but the rod is not allowed to move. This requirement is fulfilled by bending rod 22 by 1 liter. With the air damper completely closed, the throttle valve of the primary chamber must be covered by 1.2...1.3 mm (the distance between the throttle valve and the chamber wall at the location of the idle system transition holes). This gap is adjusted by bending the rod 35. A fully closed air damper should be opened by (7±0.25) mm by the diaphragm rod 23 of the starting device when moving it manually to the right until it stops. This gap is adjusted with screw 24.

The performance of the accelerator pump is checked over 10 full turns (stroke) of the throttle valve control lever 28. The fuel coming out of the sprayer 45 (see Fig. 31, d) is collected in a beaker during these 10 strokes. Its volume should be 5.25...8.75 cm3.

Rice. 76. Setting the fuel level in the float chamber of the DAAZ 2101-20 carburetor: 1-carburetor cover: 2-needle valve seat; 3-needle valve; 4-stop; 5- needle valve ball; 6-pull valve needle fork; 7-float bracket; 8-tongue; 9-float; 10-gasket.

Before starting the test, it is necessary to make 10 test strokes with lever 28 (see Fig. 31, b) to fill the channels of the accelerator pump.

The tightness of the needle valve is checked on a stand that supplies fuel to the carburetor under a pressure of 3 m of water. Art. After setting the level in the test tube of the stand, it is not allowed to fall for 10...15 s. If the fuel level in the test tube decreases, this indicates a fuel leak through the needle valve.

Setting the fuel level in the float chamber. For DAAZ 2101-20 carburetors, checking the fuel level in the float chamber is not provided.

The level required for normal operation of the carburetor is ensured by the correct installation of serviceable elements of the shut-off device (Fig. 76): the float assembly should not have any visible damage, the mass of the float should be 11...13 g; the distance between the float and gasket 10 adjacent to the carburetor cover should be (6.5 ± 0.25) mm.

The control is carried out with a gauge, the housing cover is held vertically so that the tongue 8 of the float lightly touches the ball 5 of the needle valve 3, without recessing it: the size adjustment (6.5 ± 0.25) mm is carried out by bending the tongue 8, and it is necessary that the supporting platform the tongue was perpendicular to the axis of the needle valve and had no nicks or dents; the gap corresponding to the maximum stroke of the float should be (8±0.25) mm. It is adjusted by bending stop 4; fork 6 should not interfere with the free movement of the float. After installing the carburetor, you must make sure that the float does not touch the walls of the float chamber.

Proper float installation should be checked each time the float or fuel needle valve is replaced; When replacing a needle valve, the valve gasket must be replaced.

Adjusting the crankshaft speed at idle. The elements that regulate the crankshaft rotation speed when the engine is idling include (see Fig. 30) mixture screw 11 and screw 2, which limits the opening of the throttle valve. When screw 11 is tightened, the mixture becomes leaner; when screw 2 is tightened, the throttle valve opens slightly. A restrictive plastic sleeve is pressed onto screw 11, allowing the screw to be turned only one turn. Therefore, before making adjustments at a service station, it is necessary to unscrew screw 11, break the protrusion of the bushing, unscrew the screw, remove the bushing from it and screw the screw back into the carburetor. After completing the adjustment, press a new restrictive plastic bushing onto screw II in such a position that the protrusion of the bushing, touching the stop in the hole, does not allow the screw to be unscrewed.

Idle speed adjustment is performed on a warm engine (oil temperature 60...70 ° C) with adjusted clearances in the gas distribution mechanism and with the ignition timing correctly set.

Adjustment is carried out in the following sequence (see Fig. 30):

use screw 11 to set the maximum crankshaft rotation speed at a given throttle valve position, and then use screw 2 to set the minimum stable crankshaft rotation speed;

screw 11 to achieve a CO concentration in the exhaust gases of no more than 1.5% at a given throttle position and screw 2 to restore the crankshaft speed to 950...1050 rpm;

set the crankshaft rotation speed at idle equal to 0.6 nominal revolutions (2700...2800 rpm), and check the CO concentration in the exhaust gases, which should be no more than 1%, if necessary, achieve the CO concentration with screw 7. After this, check the CO concentration in the exhaust gases again when idling at a crankshaft speed of 950...1050 rpm and achieve a concentration of no more than 1.5%;

place plug 35 (see Fig. 75) in the screw hole. If there is no gas analyzer, adjustments can be made in the following order:

use screw 2 (see Fig. 30) to set the minimum stable speed of the crankshaft, and then use screw 11 to ensure that the engine operates at the maximum speed of the crankshaft at a given throttle position;

using screw 2, reduce the opening of the throttle valve until a minimum stable rotation speed is obtained and, by tightening screw 11, set the crankshaft rotation speed at which the engine operates with noticeable interruptions, and then unscrew the screw by 30...60° (no more) until a stable engine operation;

Check the adjustment by sharply pressing the throttle pedal and releasing it. The engine should not stop.

Removal and installation of carburetor drives. To remove the throttle valve drive rod assembly with cable and sheath, you must:

unscrew screw 14 (see Fig. 32) securing the cable to the carburetor rod and release the cable;

unpin the pin, disconnect cable 3 from the pedal and remove it completely from the tube laid in the floor tunnel; bend the bracket 18 securing the shell to the engine bracket;

unscrew the two bolts securing the fuel tank clamps to the floor of the body (after removing the rear seat) and slightly lift the tank up to release the shells of the carburetor rods;

Remove the shell from the rubber seals (on the walls of the body).

Installation of the throttle drive cable is carried out in the reverse order.

To remove the air damper rod from the vehicle, it is necessary to release the fuel tank mount (as described above), and then (see Fig. 32):

disconnect rod 12 and shell 9 from carburetor 13 by loosening screws 10 and bolt II;

pull button 4 of the air damper drive rod and completely remove it from the shell;

disconnect and remove the gearbox control mechanism from the tunnel (see subsection “Gearbox control mechanism”) and bend the shell fastening bracket located in the tunnel;

unscrew the two screws 6 securing bracket 5 to the tunnel and remove the bracket with the shell from the tunnel, then use a screwdriver to separate the shell retainer 7 from the bracket 6.

The air damper control drive is assembled and installed in the reverse order.

Adjusting the carburetor drive. After dismantling and installing drives to the carburetor flaps or installing new ones, appropriate adjustments should be made.

It is recommended to adjust the carburetor throttle control drive as follows (see Fig. 32): loosen the screw (bolt) 14 securing the rod 17 and, using pliers, pull the end of the rod until the pedal 3 is set to its highest position; secure the rod in this position with a screw. When the drive is adjusted correctly, the carburetor throttle valve should be completely closed when the pedal is released and fully open when the pedal is pressed all the way down.

The air damper drive should be adjusted in the following order: loosen the bolt (screw) 11 securing the rod to the carburetor air damper articulated coupling and lower the button 4 of the air damper drive to the lowest position; Without moving the rods in the shell, fully open the air damper and in this position secure the rod with bolt (screw) 11. The shell 9 of the rod must be tightly tightened with screw 10, the shell protruding beyond the bracket is not allowed.

Pressure plate with the casing assembly are balanced statically, the permissible imbalance is no more than 20 g-cm. Increased imbalance is eliminated by drilling the metal in the radial direction along the outer diameter of the pressure disk 10. The metal is removed with a drill with a diameter of 7 mm (drilling depth up to 6 mm) with a distance from the working end of the disk to the drilling center of 6 mm.

Driven disk(Fig. 79), transmitting rotation from the engine to the drive shaft of the gearbox, has a damper (damper) designed to eliminate the harmful effects of torsional vibrations of the engine crankshaft in the vehicle transmission, as well as to reduce stress in the transmission elements,

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B - free size; G - size in a compressed state under the pressure of pressure springs

On axis 3 there is a clutch release fork 5, which is secured by a spacer wedge 16 with a spring washer 15 and a nut 14, which is tightened with a force of 2.2...3.2 kgf-m.

Before assembly, the inner surface of bushings 2 and 8, as well as the supporting surfaces of fork 5, must be lubricated with grease No. 000 or Litol-24.

CLUTCH OPERATION

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Rice. 81. Device for disassembling and assembling the clutch: 1 - plate; 2 - support; 3, 6 - screws; 4 - clamping bracket; 5 - clamp handle; 7 - emphasis; 8 - clamp screw

Before disassembling, the clutch is cleaned of dirt and wiped dry.

Install the clutch housing assembly with the pressure plate (see Fig. 78) into the device for disassembling and assembling the clutch and sawing off the shoulders of the adjusting nuts 4, pressed into the grooves of the pins 5. Unscrew and remove the adjusting nuts 4, support washers 3, heel 8, levers 7 and springs 12.

Unscrew the handle 5 (see Fig. 81) of the device and remove the device bracket and casing 1 (see Fig. 78), pressure spring cups 9, pressure springs 11 and thermal insulating gaskets 10. Remove the locking ring 7 (see Fig. 80) and adjusting washers 6 from the fork axle 3.

Unscrew nut 14, remove washer 15, carefully knock out wedge 16, remove the bushing axis from the clutch housing sockets and the clutch release fork 5 hole. Remove return spring 4, two connecting links 13, clutch 11 of the clutch release bearing and bushings 2 and 8. Insert two screwdrivers between the oil seal collar and the clutch housing, press out the clutch housing oil seal (only if replacement is necessary).

Checking the condition of parts. The need to check clutch mechanism parts usually arises when the friction linings or graphite bearing are worn out. The remaining parts wear out slightly, and their wear does not lead to loss of functionality of the mechanism. When inspecting a disassembled clutch, you must carefully check its parts.

TOclutch artery. The sealing surfaces of the crankcase must not have marks, nicks or cracks. Risks and nicks should be cleaned, if cracks are found, the crankcase should be welded or replaced. Check the dimensions of the bushings and fork axle (see appendix 2); the gap between the bushings and the axle should not exceed 0.6 mm. If the gap increases, the bushings are replaced.

Driven disk. It is necessary to make sure that the disc hub moves easily along the splines of the transmission drive shaft. If there is significant wear on the hub or shaft splines (hub misalignment), the worn parts are replaced. Friction linings must not be oily, broken, burnt or worn down to the rivet heads. Otherwise, the linings must be replaced, since in the presence of the indicated deviations, the coefficient of friction between the driving and driven elements decreases, which leads to clutch slipping when the vehicle accelerates or when the resistance to its movement increases.

Check the condition of the ends along the outer diameter and the elasticity of springs 5 (see Fig. 79) of the damper. At the ends and outer diameter of the torsional vibration damper springs, there should be no traces of rubbing or wear with a depth of more than 0.2 mm. The length of the spring in a free state should be 24.25...24.75 mm, and when compressed with a load of 42...50 kgf - 21.5 mm. The friction moment in the torsional vibration damper of the driven clutch disc is in the range of 0.375...09 kgf m, while the friction surfaces of the driven disc 10, damper plate 8, hub 6, damper rings 7 must be clean and dry.

When riveting new friction linings, you should pay attention to the fact that every second hole in the lining is drilled through, and the riveting is carried out in such a way that both linings are individually riveted through one hole in the plate. After riveting the friction linings, check the driven disk assembly for runout of the working surfaces of the linings relative to the hub axis (on the mandrel or on the drive shaft of the gearbox), which should be no more than 0.75 mm, and perform static balancing. The permissible imbalance is 15 g-cm, which is achieved by installing balancing weights (see item 11 in Fig. 79) or removing the friction lining material.

Check the thickness of the disk assembly in a free state, which should be 8.1...8.7 mm.

Clutch pressure plate. Check the non-flatness of the working surface of the pressure plate 2 (see Fig. 78). Non-flatness is allowed no more than 0.05 mm. If there are ring marks on the working surface, the disc must be sanded. Grinding the pressure plate and the associated reduction in its thickness reduces the total working force of the pressure springs 11. To maintain this force when assembling the clutch, it is necessary to install washers under the thermal insulating gaskets 10. The thickness of the washer should be equal to the thickness of the metal layer removed during grinding. The side surfaces of the three protrusions should not have wear of more than 0.2 mm.

Press levers 7 and working surfaces under the support and heel of the pressure disk should not have wear of more than 0.2 mm.

Compression springs. Check the elasticity of the springs. According to the value of the working force required to compress the springs to size

31 mm, they are sorted into two groups: with a working force of 50.5...53.5 kgf, which are marked in brown, and with a working force of 53.5...56.5 kgf, which are marked in green. Pressure springs of the same color are placed on one clutch.

Clutch release pad. Increased wear of the thrust bearing occurs if the free play of the clutch pedal is not adjusted during vehicle operation, as well as if the vehicle is driven incorrectly, i.e., when you unnecessarily keep your foot on the clutch pedal. The surfaces of the race journals should not have wear of more than 0.3 mm, otherwise the thrust bearing assembly should be replaced. Inspect the ball combination bearing. If the axial spread of the bearing is more than 0.35 mm, the bearing must be replaced.

Check the presence of lubricant in the bearing; if there is no lubricant (dry rolling of the balls), the bearing is replaced or filled with lubricant. To do this, without disassembling it, wash it in gasoline and dry it. In the bath, the LZ-31 lubricant is heated to a temperature of 150...170 °C and the bearing assembly is placed in it for 15...20 minutes, after which the bath is cooled to a temperature not exceeding 50 °C, the bearing is removed and wiped from the outside.

Transmission drive shaft needle bearing (front). Check the free rotation of the bearing and bolt assembly. Rotation should be free, without jamming. The bearing is washed and filled with refractory grease No. 000 in an amount of 2...3 g. The grease is introduced from the threaded part of the bolt.

Clutch assembly. Assembly is carried out in reverse order, taking into account the following:

When installing (see Fig. 77) cuff 9 into the clutch housing 10, it is necessary to lubricate the outer diameter and working edge of the cuff with gearbox oil and check the correct installation of the cuff spring. Then install (see Fig. 80) bushings 2 and 8, lubricating working journals of axle 3 with lubricant No. 000, assembling it with spring 4 and release fork 5. Tighten nut 14 of wedge 16 (tightening torque 2.2...3.2 kgf-m).

Check and, if necessary, set the axial movement of axis 3 within 0.1...0.5 mm, which is ensured by selecting washers 6;

install cage 11 with thrust bearing 12 on fork 5, lubricating the pins of the cage with grease No. 000, and secure it with brackets;

Assemble the clutch pressure plate with the housing. Before assembly (see Fig. 78), lightly lubricate the supporting surfaces of washer 3, thrust posts 6, levers 7 and heel 8 with grease No. 000;

first adjust the position of the heel to a size of 52 mm ± 0.37 mm, do not lock the adjusting nuts 4 (see Fig. 78);

Remove the clutch assembly from the device and bleed it by pressing the heel of the levers using a lever or screw press. The heel stroke should be II mm, the number of strokes

Installationand final clutch adjustment. Install a mandrel (the drive shaft of the gearbox can be used as a mandrel) into bearing 12 (see Fig. 77) of the drive shaft of the gearbox, wipe the supporting surface of the flywheel and install the driven clutch disc along the splines of the mandrel. Install the disk and housing assembly on the flywheel, aligning the numbers marked on the clutch housing and on the flywheel (see view A in Fig. 77). This preserves the relative position of the parts that was during the dynamic balancing of the crankshaft assembly with the flywheel and clutch. Attach the clutch with bolts 3 to the flywheel with a tightening torque of 1.6...2 kgf-m.

Prepare a device (see Fig. 42) for final tuning of the position of the clutch heel on the engine. Install jumper 2 with the indicator on the mounting plate 5 along the main post / heel, setting the tension to 0.5...1 mm and aligning the indicator arm with zero. The control stand ^ is installed at the nominal installation size of the heel equal to 52 mm ± 0.37 mm. Install the device for checking the heel runout on the crankcase studs and secure it.

Adjust the position of the heel by size (52±0.37) mm and the mutual runout of the plane (see Fig. 77) of the clutch heel relative to the flywheel by unscrewing or tightening the adjusting nuts 18. When adjusting, the levers 16 should be moved to the extreme position from the center to the stop rack 17, i.e. there should be no gap in the connection. The runout of plane b of heel 15 should be no more than 0.1 mm.

After adjusting the heel runout, it is necessary to lock the adjusting nuts 18 by pressing the collar on the nuts into the longitudinal slot at the ends of the fingers 19. After locking the nuts, the heel runout should not exceed 0.8 mm.

DESIGN FEATURES OF THE CLUTCH RELEASE DRIVE

The vehicle uses a hydraulic drive for deactivating the Cordon (Fig. 82). The clutch pedal is suspended on an axle on which a plastic bushing is placed, and is attached to a bracket installed in the trunk of the body. To prevent dust and cold air from entering the body, the pedal is sealed with a rubber slot seal. In the highest position. The pedal is held in place by a release spring.

The pedal is pivotally connected to the clutch master cylinder using a pin, adjusting washers are installed between the pedal and the walls of the pusher ear, and shims are installed between the master cylinder flange and the bracket. The fuel reservoir is attached to the inner panel shelf above the master cylinder.

The master and slave cylinders are connected to each other by two steel pipelines. The first pipeline is laid along the floor tunnel. The transition of the pipeline from the body is carried out through a coupling. The pipeline laid from the connecting coupling to the clutch housing has a spiral in the middle part that compensates for changes in the length of the pipeline when the power unit, suspended on rubber cushions, swings. The slave cylinder is attached to the clutch housing. The clutch release fork lever, using a release spring, constantly presses the working cylinder rod against the piston and moves the latter to the extreme forward position.

The master cylinder of the clutch release drive (Fig. 83) consists of a cast iron body, a piston made of zinc alloy, with a rubber sealing collar that keeps fluid from flowing out of the cylinder. There are six through holes in the piston head, covered with a thin steel ring - a valve and an internal rubber cuff. The spring presses the cuff against the piston, and the piston against a thrust washer held in the cylinder by a retaining ring. The rear end of the master cylinder is closed with a threaded fitting with a sealing gasket. A pusher with a fork at the end connected to the pedal enters the internal cavity of the piston. To protect the cylinder from dust and dirt, a rubber cover is used, the back part of which fits into the recess on the cylinder, and the front part wraps around the rod. The clutch master cylinder has an internal diameter of 19 mm.

The clutch release slave cylinder (see Fig. 83) has an internal diameter of 22 mm.

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Rice. 83. Main and slave cylinders of the clutch release drive: 1 - cap; 2 - valve; 3 - working cylinder body; 4 - spring; 5 - fitting; 6 - washer; 7 - main cylinder body; 8 - plug; 9 - washer; 10 - pusher; 11, 18 - protective caps; 12 - piston; 13 - outer cuff; 14 - thrust washer; 15, 19 - retaining rings; 16 - valve; 17 - inner cuff; 20 - piston; 21 - sealing collar; 22 - adjusting nut; 23 - lock nut; 24 - spacer; pusher; 26 - spring.

Unscrew fitting 5 of the cylinder and, using a wooden drift, remove the piston with the outer cuff, the piston valve, the inner cuff and the piston return spring from the cylinder.

The disassembled parts of the clutch release drive are thoroughly washed, inspected and determined for suitability for further work. The parts of the clutch slave and master cylinders are washed in denatured alcohol, alcohol or fresh brake fluid.

Assembly of the clutch release drive is carried out in the reverse order, taking into account the following instructions.

All parts of the working and master cylinders, as well as the internal cavity of the cylinders, must be lubricated with castor oil or fresh brake fluid before assembly. When connecting pedal 14 (see Fig. 82) to the pusher fork, adjusting washers 21 should be installed between the fork and the pedal so that the pusher is located coaxially with the main cylinder.

The pedal connected to the pusher of the clutch master cylinder must have a full stroke of at least 150 mm (travel from the upper extreme position to the stop on the floor of the body). If the pedal stroke is less than 150 mm, it is necessary to install an additional gasket 27 between the bracket 24 and the main cylinder support flange 26. If the pedal stroke significantly exceeds 150 mm, remove the gasket.

Adjusting the free play of the clutch pedal. The free play of the pedal in the center of its platform is measured with a measuring ruler, while pressing the pedal with your finger until noticeable resistance to moving the pedal appears. It should be within 26...38 mm.

To adjust the free travel of the pedal, remove (see Fig. 82) the release spring 5 and turn the lever 4 until the thrust bearing 2 rests against the heel 3 of the release levers, while the stroke of the lever 4 is at the end" (near the working cylinder rod) should be 4...5 mm, which corresponds to the gap between the heel and the bearing 2.4...3.4 mm. If the specified size is smaller, hold the pusher 8 with a key, release the lock nut 7 and screw the adjusting nut 6 onto the pusher 8 and checking the stroke of the lever, set its free stroke within 4...5 mm, then lock the adjusting nut 6 and put on the tension spring 5.

Filling the system with liquid and removing air from it. To fill the hydraulic clutch release drive, use the same fluid as for the hydraulic drive of the car brakes.

It is recommended to carry out the work in the following order: fill a clean glass transparent vessel with a capacity of approximately 0.5 liters from 1/3 to 1/2 of the height with brake fluid, remove the plug from the neck of the supply tank and fill it with fluid to the nominal level (see subsection “Brakes”) ");

clean the air release valve on the working cylinder from dust and dirt, remove the rubber cap from the valve and place a rubber hose on the valve head to bleed the brake hydraulic system, immersing the free end of the hose in a container with liquid;

sharply press the clutch pedal with your foot 2...3 times successively (with an interval between presses of 1...2 s), and then, leaving the pedal pressed, unscrew the air release valve 0.5...1 turn (these operations are recommended do it together):

gently releasing and sharply pressing the pedal, continue to pump the system until air bubbles from the hose completely stop. During bleeding, it is necessary to add brake fluid to the supply tank, not allowing the level in it to drop by 1/3 of the normal value. After air bubbles stop coming out of the hose, keep the pedal pressed and turn the air release valve all the way. Next, remove the hose from the valve, put the cap on the valve head, add liquid to the reservoir to the normal level and replace the reservoir cap.

After bleeding, it is necessary to check the stroke of the piston rod of the working cylinder, which corresponds to the full stroke of the pedal. This rod stroke should be about 22 mm with a pedal stroke of at least 150 mm. It is allowed to reduce the rod stroke to 19 mm, provided that “clean” (complete) disengagement of the clutch is ensured with a free stroke of the lever of at least 4 mm. A rod stroke of less than 19 mm does not ensure normal clutch operation and indicates the presence of air in the system and the need to pump it. With a properly pumped hydraulic clutch system, shockless engagement of first gear is ensured. If, when the clutch pedal is pressed all the way (with the system fully adjusted and pumped), shock engagement of first gear occurs, you should make sure that the clutch mechanism is in good working order.

GEARBOX AND MAIN DRIVE WITH DIFFERENTIAL

DESIGN FEATURES OF THE GEARBOX AND MAIN DRIVE WITH DIFFERENTIAL

The gearbox (Fig. 84) is mechanical, two-shaft, three-way, four-speed with four forward gears and one reverse, made in the same housing with the main gear. All gears of the gearbox, except reverse gear, are helical constant mesh gears. The reverse drive and driven gears have straight teeth. The gears of 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears are activated using synchronizers. Gearbox ratios: 1-3.8; II-2.1 18; III-1.409; IV-0.964; reverse gear - 4.156.

The gearbox and differential parts are housed in a housing made of magnesium alloy ML-5. To increase rigidity, the cavity of the gearbox housing is divided into three sections by partitions with borings for the bearings of the drive gear, main gear, drive and intermediate shafts. The first section, on the flywheel side, houses the main gear, the second section contains gears of 1st and 2nd gears and reverse gears, the third section houses gears of 3rd and 4th gears, as well as the speedometer drive.

The front part of the gearbox housing is attached to the clutch housing. The seats of the gearbox housing and clutch housing are processed together, so the gearbox housing is not interchangeable.

The rear part of the gearbox housing is closed with a cover, in the cavity of which the gear shift mechanism is placed. In the upper part of the rear cover there is a threaded hole M16X1.5 for installing a reverse gear indicator. The machined plane at the end of the rear cover is used to attach the bracket, which is the rear attachment point of the power unit to the car body.

The drive shaft // of the gearbox (see Fig. 84) rotates on two bearings: the front end of the shaft is on a needle bearing pressed into the flywheel bolt, and the rear end is on bearing 12 installed in the hole in the gearbox housing. A thrust split ring mounted on bearing 12 and a ring 14 mounted on the drive shaft prevent the bearing and shaft from moving backward. They are kept from moving forward by the rear bearing cover 13.

The front end of the drive shaft is splined to allow a sliding fit of the clutch driven disc. In the middle part of the shaft, located inside the gearbox, there is a cut helical gear, which is in constant engagement with the driven gear 27 of gear 1 (see Fig. 84) and the intermediate driven gear 33 (Fig. 85) in reverse. The axial force that occurs when torque is transmitted by the drive shaft is perceived by ball bearing 12 (see Fig. 84). Behind the gear at the rear end of the drive shaft there are involute splines that engage with the hub of the intermediate shaft 3. The drive shaft is sealed by a self-clamping rubber seal with an oil thread.

The intermediate shaft of the gearbox is hollow, made as one piece with the 2nd gear drive gear, and rotates on two bearings: the front roller 8 and the rear ball. Bushing 2 of the gear shift slide rod is pressed into the inner hole of the shaft.

On the intermediate shaft, on double-row needle bearings 6, the needles of which roll on bushings 10, drive gears 7 and 4 of gears III and IV rotate. The 10 gear bushings are the same for 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. To limit axial movements from the forces arising on the helical gears when transmitting torque, thrust shaped washers 9 are installed. The required axial movement of the gears within the range of 0.258... 0.394 mm is ensured by the length of the bushings.

Oil for lubrication of needle bearings is supplied by splashing through the figured cutouts of thrust washers 9 and 26. Between the bushings and thrust washers, a hub with engagement clutch 5 is installed on the splines. The synchronizer blocks 23 are inserted into the grooves of the hub, pressed against the surface of the coupling 5 splines by two spring rings 24. Brass synchronizer rings 22 are installed on the right and left sides of the synchronizer hub.

The set mounted on the intermediate shaft is tightened with nut 39, tightening torque 12...16 kgf-m. The nut is locked with a lock washer 38, the bent whiskers of which fit into the grooves at the end of the intermediate shaft.

The axis of the spline shaft 28 (see Fig. 85) for reverse gear is pressed into the holes in the front and middle walls of the crankcase and is additionally held by the cover's lug, which fits into a groove at the front end of the axis. The diameter of the front end of the axle at a length of 27 mm is 0.04 mm larger than the diameter of the rest. The hole in the front wall of the crankcase has been enlarged accordingly, which makes assembly and disassembly of the unit easier.

On axis 28 (see Fig. 85) on bronze bushings 29, a splined shaft 30 rotates freely with a helical intermediate driven gear 33 pressed on the front end, which is in constant mesh with the drive shaft gear. Along the splines of the shaft 30, a spur-cut intermediate gear 31 of reverse gear slides freely, which is engaged by a fork 32 with the driven gear 25 (see Fig. 84) when reverse gear is engaged, i.e., to engage reverse gear, only one pair of gears needs to be engaged.

The axial movement of the spline shaft 30 (see Fig. 85) within 0.3...0.5 mm is set by selecting the thickness of the adjusting washer 27.

https://pandia.ru/text/78/063/images/image098_0.gif" width="314" height="375 src="> Gearboxes" href="/text/category/reduktori/" rel="bookmark">speedometer drive gearbox; 42 - bolt; 43 - spring washer; 44 spline shaft axis.

Clutch of the ZAZ-965a “Zaporozhets” car

The ZAZ -965A Zaporozhets car is equipped with a single-plate dry clutch with peripherally located springs and a mechanical release drive from the pedal.

A stamped steel clutch housing is bolted to the engine flywheel, which contains a pressure plate with six pressure springs located in cups fixed in the housing. Heat-insulating bearings are installed under the springs. This eliminates the possibility of overheating of the springs from the pressure plate, the temperature of which increases when the clutch is engaged due to its slipping. The guide protrusions of the pressure disk fit into the slots of the bracket, which ensures their joint rotation. At the same time, the disk can have longitudinal movements.

Sandwiched between the flywheel and the pressure plate is a steel split composite driven disk with friction linings, riveted to a hub mounted on the splines of the clutch shaft. The front end of this shaft is installed in a needle bearing in the recess of the flywheel mounting bolt, and the rear end is installed in a ball bearing in the wall of the clutch housing. The bearing is sealed with a self-clamping oil seal. The clutch housing, cast from a light alloy, is attached to the engine crankcase and has a hatch in the lower part, closed with a lid.

Three release levers with locking springs are installed on brackets riveted to the clutch housing. The outer ends of the levers are connected by adjusting pins to the pressure plate; A polished cast iron support ring is secured to the inner ends of the levers using three locking springs.

A carbon-graphite release bearing is located opposite the support ring, which does not require lubrication. The thrust bearing is secured by its casing in the inner ring of an angular contact ball bearing installed in the cage. The cage is connected to the switching fork using two trunnions and locking springs. The fork is mounted pivotally on a pin fixed in the bracket. The bracket is attached to the crankcase. The fork is equipped with a release spring. The outer end of the fork is brought out through a hatch covered with a rubber boot and, using a cable equipped with lugs, is connected to the clutch pedal shaft lever. The roller with the pedal is installed in a bracket fixed in the front part of the body under the driver’s feet.

Rice. 1. Clutch of the ZAZ -965A “Zaporozhets” car

When the pedal is released, the clutch is disengaged. When you press the pedal, the fork rotates on its axis and moves the cage. In this case, the carbon-graphite bearing 10 of the cage presses through the support ring onto the inner ends of the levers, and their outer ends move the pressure disk away from the flywheel, compressing the springs and disengaging the clutch.

When the clutch is engaged, there should be a gap of 2.0 mm between the thrust bearing and the support ring. The size of the gap is adjusted by changing the length of the drive cable using a nut on the rear tip connected to the clutch fork. The free play of the pedal should be about 40-50 mm.

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