Adjusting valves VAZ 2114 8kl 1.6 detailed. Why do you need valve adjustment and how to get rid of it? Consequences of untimely adjustment

The VAZ 2114 uses a 4-cylinder in-line power plant, the power system is an injector. The location of the gas distribution mechanism is upper, that is, not only the valves of the mechanism are located in the block head, but also the camshaft.
The VAZ 2114 uses an adjustable gas distribution mechanism, that is, the thermal gap is not independently regulated, as is done in a timing belt with hydraulic compensators, but is a strictly fixed value that periodically needs to be checked and adjusted.

On this car, since the timing is adjustable, the thermal gap is fixed; at the intake valve it should be 0.2 mm, and at the exhaust valve - 0.35 mm. A small error of 0.05 mm is also allowed.

The exact value on the VAZ 2114 engine is ensured by the use of adjusting washers of a certain thickness. These washers are placed between the camshaft lobe and the valve lifter.

Valve clearance measurement

During engine operation, wear occurs due to friction, as a result of which the thermal gap changes, so periodic inspection and adjustment is required. If this is not done, then changing its value will lead to disruption of the timing and valve timing. In this case, the VAZ 2114 loses power, gasoline consumption increases, and starting the engine on “cold” or “hot” worsens.

The thermal gap is adjusted after measuring it, and if it does not correspond to what is required, by selecting a washer of a certain thickness.

According to the regulations, the thermal clearance on the VAZ 2114 must be checked and adjusted every 60 thousand kilometers, as well as when valve knocking occurs.

set of open-end wrenches;
spark plug key;
set of probes;
special device for squeezing valves;
set of adjusting washers;
rags;

The set includes a set of washers with thicknesses from 3.0 mm to 4.5 mm. The thickness size interval is 0.05 mm, which allows you to select a washer of the required thickness when performing work. This set is not cheap, but purchasing it will allow you to carry out all the work yourself for a long time, without going to a service station.

Also, to complete the work, you will need a valve cover gasket, since it is disposable and must be replaced when the cover is removed.

Work order

Now the sequence of actions:

We install the VAZ 2114 on a flat surface, the engine must cool completely so that there is no error in the measurements due to metal expansion;
Remove the valve cover, as well as the side cover under which the timing belt is located. The surface under the lid must be wiped of oil. You should also carefully inspect the timing shaft for burrs, holes, and signs of significant wear. If there are any, the shaft will have to be replaced;
We unscrew the spark plugs to make it much easier to turn the crankshaft in the future.
We combine the mark on the camshaft drive gear with the protrusion on the cylinder head, that is, we set the TDC on the first cylinder. This can be done using a wrench, which we use to rotate the crankshaft by the pulley bolt. But some car enthusiasts do things a little differently - jack up the front wheel on the left and engage 4th gear. Then they simply rotate the wheel, and since the gear is engaged, this rotation will be transmitted through the transmission to the engine;
After aligning the marks on the camshaft gear, strictly opposite the existing mark, we make another one with chalk. This will make future work somewhat easier.
We use a feeler gauge to measure the gaps on valves 1 and 3 (you need to count from the camshaft gear. The 1st is exhaust, and the 3rd is intake);
The gap on 1 valve should be 0.35 mm, but an error is allowed. That is, we take a feeler gauge 0.35 mm thick and insert it between the shaft cam and the adjusting washer. If the probe moves with little effort, then the gap is normal, but if the probe does not enter or is very loose, then adjustment is required. We do the same check on valve 3, but the gap on it should be 0.2 mm.
The adjustment of the valves is carried out as follows: we attach the device for pressing the valves to the studs securing the cover. This device has a curved lever that we place between the cam and the washer. Using the handle of the device, we press on this lever, as a result of which it will press on the pusher. This device comes with a special clamp, which we place between the camshaft and the pusher. After releasing the handle, the latch will hold the valve in a squeezed state, while the washer will not be pinched and can be removed with tweezers.
Let's look at an example of what kind of washer will need to be installed in order for the gap to be correct. For example, when checking the exhaust valve, it was found that it was not 0.35 mm, but 0.42 mm, that is, it was increased by 0.07 mm. Next, remove the washer that was installed. There should be a mark on it indicating its thickness (for example, 3.65 mm); if there is no such mark, then you will have to measure the thickness with a micrometer. Now we add to the thickness of the washer the value by which the gap is increased, in our case - 0.07 mm, as a result we get the value of the thickness of the washer for installation - 3.65 + 0.07 = 3.72 mm. But since a washer with such a thickness is not included in the kit, we install a new washer with a thickness as close as possible to the obtained value, that is, 3.7 mm. This is why an error of 0.05 mm is allowed.
We install the washer of the required thickness in place with the size mark down (towards the pusher). Next, use the lever of the device to press the valve again and pull out the latch. This completes the adjustment.
Next, the remaining valves are adjusted, but for this you need to know the order. After checking valves 1 and 3, turn the camshaft half a turn (for ease of installation, we made a mark on the gear in advance) and check valves 2 (intake) and 5 (exhaust). Then we turn it another half turn and adjust 6 (intake) and 8 (exhaust). To check the 4th (intake) and 7th (exhaust) valves, you still need to turn the camshaft half a turn once.

Many motorists have encountered the process of adjusting VAZ-2114 valves at a car service center or carried out this operation with their own hands. But not everyone knows after what period of time this operation must be performed.

The video below will tell you about adjusting the valves on the VAZ-2114:

Diagram of the valve and elements for adjustment

Valve clearance adjustment process

According to regulatory technical documentation and the practice of motorists, the valves must be adjusted every 15,000-20,000 km or when the need arises.

Adjusting washer. It is used to adjust the valve clearance

To adjust the valves, special shims are used. There are 125 sizes, but only a small number have found use.

Let's consider which ones: 3.30, 3.35, 3.40, 3.45, 3.50, 3.55, 3.60, 3.65, 3.70, 3.75, 3.80, 3.85, 3.90, 3.95, 4.00, 4.05, 4.10, 4.15, 4.20, 4.25, 4.30, 4.35, 4.40, 4.45, 4.50;

Consequences of untimely adjustment

It is known that untimely carrying out any operation to repair and maintain a car entails certain consequences, which can be, in one case, mild, and in another, fatal for the power unit. So, let's look at the main ones:

Worn parts and assemblies of the cylinder head, namely the gas distribution mechanism.
Wear of camshafts.
Partial or complete destruction of pushers.
In a separate case, it leads to a broken timing belt and corresponding consequences, such as. !

conclusions

The valves on the VAZ-2114 should be adjusted no later than after 20,000 km. Untimely adjustment work can lead to unexpected and destructive consequences. Therefore, the car owner must follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The VAZ-2114 is equipped with a 4-cylinder engine with an overhead gas distribution mechanism (GRM). The 8-valve injection system of this machine model is located in the cylinder head with a timing belt drive.

In addition to the sounds and noises emanating from the engine, there is a specific one that is distinguished by a special clatter. Valve knocking or a violation of the thermal clearance occurs as a result of a change in the distance between the cams and the camshaft levers. And the larger the gap, the louder the sound. This parameter is a regulated value and must be strictly observed.

Violation of the thermal clearance of the valves can cause knocking

Where is the knock coming from?

Another reason for knocking is considered small gap. As you use it, the power drops with all the consequences, including. It is advisable to adjust no later than 15 thousand mileage.
The reason for the clattering noise in the timing belt assembly may be detonation phenomenon . This is associated with incomplete ignition of the combustible mixture inside the combustion chamber.
Often the reason lies in low oil pressure at high speeds . Starting a “cold” engine also leads to knocking, especially if there is excessive pusher wear. The situation affects the oil supply (lean) to the valves.
Lubrication deficiency also becomes the reason for a specific metallic knock, followed by valve burning, reduced power, and camshaft imbalance. The appearance of a knock obliges you to check the timing system, even with less mileage, but after identifying the gap data.
The reason for this low quality gasoline (below Ai 92). You can rectify the situation by filling the tank with the maximum amount of gasoline, for example, AI 95.
The motive is also malfunction of the ignition distributor . If later, it leads to heating and loss of engine power. With an early advance angle, a knocking sound begins to be heard, especially on a cold engine.

The procedure for making adjustments on an 8-valve valve

The procedure is not complicated and can be easily performed by the driver if he has the following on hand:

Wrenches, spanners, spark plugs, sockets.
Set of probes.
Valve release device with calibrated retainer.
Adjusting washers (preferably a set).
Rags.

Algorithm

The list of mandatory works includes:

Stop the car on the site (preferably in the garage), let the engine cool, preferably below 25° C.
Disconnect the hoses, brackets, cover, and camshaft drive belt from the valve cover.. A visual inspection is carried out to determine the presence of worn areas or other defects.
Removing the valve cover
Unscrew the spark plugs, which will make it easier to turn the crankshaft and install the first cylinder at TDC. This process is performed by lifting (hanging) the front of the machine and then rotating the front wheel or crankshaft gear. This is done after installing the 4th gear of the gearbox.
Unscrew the spark plugs
in the exhaust manifold sector. Measure the gap between the round surface of the cam and the pusher. The thermal factor is considered a purely fixed parameter, amounting to 0.2 mm for the inlet and 0.35 mm for the outlet, with an error of 0.05 mm.
Align the camshaft gear mark with the mark on the cylinder head
Checking the correctly fixed gap is done with a feeler gauge. On the first valve, the probe is inserted into the interval between the cam and the adjusting washer, the thickness of which varies between 3÷4.5 mm. The tool plate should pass with little force. This is considered normal. Loose entry or inability to insert is considered evidence of the need for adjustment. If the probe does not fit, use a thinner plate. The action is repeated until it passes with slight friction. The difference between the nominal gap and the thickness of the feeler gauge will give the required washer thickness.
Checking the gap with a feeler gauge
The process involves compressing the valve, for which a device (at hand) is mounted on the studs of the cylinder head. The lever should be placed between the cam and the plane of the washer. By pressing the handle of the device, the lever presses the pusher. A calibrated clamp is inserted into the resulting gap, which holds the valve, leaving the washer free. This part is removed with tweezers or something pointed.
Using the lever, press the pusher and insert the calibrated lock
Installation of a new part is carried out based on the laser mark, on the underside of the removed part, for example 3.5 mm. If there is no mark, measurement is carried out with a micrometer. The check shows that the exhaust valve clearance is, for example, 0.44 mm. The gap exceeds the fixed one by 0.09 mm. Therefore, you will need a washer with a thickness of 3.94 mm. This size may not be available in the set. In this case, we select a size close to the required figure.
Installing a new adjusting washer for the VAZ-2114 valve
The new washer is placed in place with the mark down, to avoid abrasion. The retainer is removed after pressing the valve. The operation moves to the next stage.

An important element of adjustment remains knowledge of the operating order of the cylinders.

Upon completion of the first stage, the camshaft is rotated 180° (half a turn) to check 2nd intake and 5th exhaust. Turning another 180°, 6, 8 are checked.

The same method is used to work with 4 inlet and 7 outlet.

The procedure is completed by reinstalling all removed parts. The cover gasket is a one-time use item and must be replaced.

Video about adjusting valves on an 8-valve VAZ-2114 engine

Summary

Avoid refueling with gasoline below AI-92, which will save your car from detonation phenomena.

Check the ignition timing periodically.

Constantly monitor the engine oil pressure.

Make adjustments in accordance with the instructions for the car.

If on a VAZ- 2114 1.5, as it is also called 1.6, the valves “knocked” on eight valves, this indicates that the components need to be adjusted more quickly. Unfortunately, not all car enthusiasts immediately begin to eliminate such a malfunction, which leads to more severe consequences. After all, if timely adjustment is not fulfilled, then the engine power will decrease significantly, valve will burn out, and the camshaft may generally become unbalanced. You don’t understand how to correctly adjust the valve clearances on a VAZ- 2114 8 valves? Then we advise you to study the information that will be presented below.

Adjusting the valves without the help of others is easy if you follow the instructions exactly and do the work step by step. Before you check the dimensions of the gap, if they do not correspond to the approved value, and a typical knocking sound is heard when the engine is running, this means that the valves definitely need to be adjusted. To accurately check the size of the gap, you need to wait until the motor has completely cooled.

Step-by-step instruction

First you need to make sure that the valves need to be adjusted. You need to check the gaps between the camshaft cam and the adjusting washers on a cold engine.

The clearance on the intake valve should be 0.2 mm - an error of 0.05 mm is allowed.
The outlet gap should be 0.35 mm - an error of 0.05 mm is allowed.

Tools you will need:

keys;
a device that recesses valve pushers - costs about 100 rubles;
set of probes;
micrometer;
adjusting washers - they have a thickness of 3 to 4.5 mm. They come with an interval of 0.05 mm. That is, you can find washers with sizes of 3.05 mm, 3.1 mm, etc. up to 4.5 mm. (one washer costs about 20 rubles).

Now we will describe the sequence of actions when checking and adjusting the gaps:

1. Remove the cylinder head cover.

2. Remove the front toothed belt protective cover.

3. Unscrew the spark plugs.

4. Remove the oil from the top of the head.

5. Inspect the cams - if you find scuffs, holes, signs of wear, deep risks, then you need to get rid of such defects.

6. Install on the studs to which the head is attached a device that recesses the pushers.

7. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the pulley and the rear cover of the timing belt align. Then turn it another 40-50 degrees, which is equal to moving 2.5-3 teeth of the camshaft pulley.

8. Using a set of feeler gauges, check the clearance of the 1st (exhaust) and 3rd (intake) valves (counted from the pulley).

9. If the gaps do not meet the standard, then:

recess the pushers and fix them in the lowest position;
remove the adjusting washer and use a micrometer to measure its thickness;
determine the thickness of the washer that you need so that the gap becomes normal (how to do this is written below);
take a washer of the required thickness and place it in the pusher with the side on which the thickness of the washer is written;
check the gap again.

10. Each time you turn the crankshaft half a turn, similarly check and adjust the valves in the following sequence (counting from the pulley):

5 (exhaust) and 2 (inlet);
8 (exhaust) and 6 (inlet);
4 (exhaust) and 7 (inlet).

How to determine how thick a washer is needed

2. Add the thickness of the old washer.

Example: if the intake gap is 0.27 mm (the norm is 0.2 mm), and the thickness of the old washer is 3.75 mm, then subtract 0.2 from 0.27 and get 0.07.

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