Car owners sooner or later come to the conclusion that it is time to update the top decorative and protective layer car paintwork. Beautiful car it is difficult to keep it in good condition, and also protect the body from rust and other unpleasant damage. Moreover, it is difficult to produce correctly necessary work do it yourself and don’t have to pay a lot of money to specialists to restore the car body. A simple technology for painting a car with your own hands will help you understand how to perform all the steps, as well as what points you should be wary of.
Compliance with technology when working with cars is simply necessary. Otherwise, the car will receive an ugly body, which will also constantly require modifications and careful maintenance. Before you paint any surfaces yourself, you should know the rules. high-quality painting. But even those car enthusiasts who know how to paint a car correctly in theory cannot always do it. necessary work in practice, efficiently and quickly. It’s worth looking into this point in more detail.
Stages and order of painting - basic knowledge before starting
Before you approach processing a car with your own hands, you need to understand all the stages of completing the assigned tasks. A properly prepared machine and the right method of applying paints and varnishes will be the key to your success. Before painting the surface, determine the scale of the renovation. This may be a local or partial repair, as well as full painting. The order will differ depending on the selected solutions. In general, the stages of painting a car are as follows:
- Washing the area being repaired and cleaning all layers old paint, which prevent you from updating and repairing all damage to your machine.
- At the second stage, it is worth determining what materials need to be applied to the surface of the car, whether it is necessary to level the body with putty, and protect it from corrosion.
- Next, the place must be primed, after which you will have to wait several hours. After priming, sometimes you need to wash the area additionally to eliminate unevenness.
- Next, the area of your car is exposed with paint. The processing technology in this case will be different, which depends on the chosen scale of paintwork renewal.
- After completing all stages, it is important to polish and prepare a new one. paintwork To further exploitation. Protection and refinement are important stages.
If you do not take into account these simple rules for painting a car, serious problems are possible when applying paint, as well as during further operation. But technology includes much more information about how such surfaces should be painted. You can look at modern videos More information from specialists on how materials are applied in a particular case.
Car body treatment locally - we correct the damage correctly
The modern approach to restoring the protective layer on your car may vary depending on the nature of the damage. If the paint is slightly erased or damaged in a certain place, technology is used local painting. The rules in this case are quite complex, but only their unquestioning observance will lead to high-quality results. In this case, you will have to paint car body parts with the following features:
- You can easily prepare the car with your own hands; just clean the area with sandpaper and water;
- protection of the metal is mandatory, therefore a primer with protective properties and metal conservation technologies;
- It is best to paint a car with your own hands in a chamber or prepared room without dust and sunlight;
- the equipment must be suitable, even from a spray can local damage cannot be eliminated;
- treatment will often be required following the paint transition rule to reduce the visual separation of the repair stain.
You can use different methods of applying materials. But the technology for painting a car at home must be followed. To do this, select good materials, decent paint, primer and other components. Also pay attention to the spray gun. It must spray the liquid well, otherwise shagreen will appear and paint streaks will form on the car body. Watch some videos that will explain more information about car paint jobs.
How to paint body parts from a spray can?
You can use aerosol materials only if you have no special complaints about the result. The car is unlikely to be very beautiful; the stains will definitely be noticeable. It is almost impossible to paint the entire part using a spray can evenly and beautifully. This requires not just car painting technology, but a masterful ability to control spraying.
But some car damage can actually be repaired with aerosol solutions. These are internal cavities, invisible parts on the thresholds, parts of the car body hidden from the eye of the observer. But it is almost impossible to do this work correctly with your own hands without experience. So it’s better to use a compressor and a traditional spray gun.
You can watch dozens of videos, but still never know which ones. important factors painting work affect the quality of the process. Bring the car body to perfect condition after multiple damages, the only option is complete repainting. At the same time, the car painting technology must be fully observed. For full processing the body needs to be well prepared, all decisions must be carried out reliably and without any inaccuracies. The preparation process is possible with your own hands without paying for the services of specialists. You will need to perform the following range of actions:
- choose paint for processing body elements, in this case, you can choose any color in the spectrum indicated in the data sheet;
- determine the quality of paint and varnish material for a car, it can be metallic, mother-of-pearl, as well as a number of special materials;
- choose the right set of additional materials for the machine (primer, hardener, solvents, etc.);
- choose and organize a place where you can paint the car in compliance with all the rules and recommendations of specialists;
- purchase additional materials such as sandpaper, putty, rags for treating the body;
- watch the video and make important decisions on the methods of applying paint and varnish material, the stages of the work.
If you've chosen metallic paint, it's worth a look. special requirements. Metallic car painting technology involves the use of specific cameras and other solutions for high-quality application. It is necessary to maintain the temperature, properly prepare your car for execution painting work. If this is not done, you cannot expect quality results.
Painting a car in a rented booth is the best option
If you can't find a space or prepare your garage for painting your vehicle, rent a camera. Many service stations offer this service for a small fee. You can also consult with specialists, take optional equipment. This will often be cheaper than making your own technical kit for transport.
Let's sum it up
To make your car look beautiful and not rust, you should monitor the quality of the paintwork. As soon as it receives damage, it should be repaired immediately and proper repairs must be made. Painting technologies and requirements are quite complex, so for independent work It is worth choosing classic solutions and sets of materials. The technology for preparing a car for painting must be followed.
If important features are not observed, serious troubles are quite possible very soon after the work is completed. The paintwork material may crack or peel off during the first wash. Also, the sun's rays do not spare poorly applied paint. So sometimes it’s better to spend some time studying the right technologies than having to redo the job again and spend more more money to eliminate problems that have arisen.
The main stages of painting a car are known to everyone, but repainting an incorrectly repaired part is more expensive than immediately contacting a workshop specializing in enamels. This point stops many who want to do their own painting - the final decision is determined by the price of the issue, which can change the opinion of even the most desperate skeptics. However, overcoming doubt and turning to instructions and diagrams, the future painter discovers that it is the lack of information rather than its presence that is deterring him. There are certain atmospheric humidity and temperature conditions, but having familiarized yourself with the basic requirements for the room, it is easy to see that most of the work on air preparation can be done on a moderately dry and moderately hot summer day.
Sequencing
Regardless of whether the car needs full painting or partial restoration of paintwork, the master will first have to check the condition of the metal for corrosion and compliance with geometric shapes. Rust on the metal of a car can be easily removed with your own hands using hard abrasives, metal brushes, rust converters, acids, etc. Puttying is an intermediate step that allows you to level out distortions that are too small for straightening and welding, but too large to be corrected with priming. The remaining steps are practically mandatory:
- Degreasing, sanding and applying primer.
- Degreasing, matting and applying paintwork.
- Polishing.
The painting of an individual car part may differ at least in that the new part will require cleaning of transport primer. In general, transport primers are not a good replacement for regular primers, but if you have a lot of patience, you can use transport primers. This type of primer is much tougher, exhibits poorer adhesion due to poor sanding capabilities with fine-grained abrasives, and reacts poorly with other colorants. Because of this, it is better to clean new part car from the transport cover, although small spots are quite acceptable if the edges of such soil are not too sharp and its thickness is small.
The sequence of applying paintwork directly depends on the selected materials. Acrylic paint is applied to the car in 2-3 layers, does not require a base or varnish, but before use it is mixed with a hardener, and if the required viscosity is not achieved, it is also mixed with a solvent. Polishing with acrylic paints is only necessary when defects appear. Other painting materials have their own requirements:
- Nitro paint is a quick-drying material applied in one layer (when painting the entire car, the paint must be covered with a good varnish).
- Alkyd enamels - three layers, require the use of a hardener, and are difficult to polish.
- “Metallic” is a two-layer material (base + special varnish), the main colors of which are not resistant to atmospheric influences (previously, single-layer “metallics” were used, without varnish).
- A three-layer system is a paint with complex effects that requires a base of paints, a pigment base and a varnish coating.
Painting procedure
Craftsmen never tire of arguing about the system for applying paint to individual parts of different sizes. Some painters are sure that any vertical part of the car needs to be painted from above, to control smudges, while others quite happily begin to paint the same parts from below. In fact, a lot depends on habit - best approach is formed with a set of experience, even general rules are transformed depending on the circumstances. As correctly noted in this video: when working in one room, it is better to first work with “metallic”, and only then with solid paints, and paint the dark areas of the car after the light ones:
Car painting technology “Mobihel helios”.#1
“Mobihel helios” car painting technology. PART 2
“Mobihel helios” car painting technology. PART 3
It is believed, for example, that painting a car roof should begin from the center, but the main thing here is not the edge or the center, but control of the fog raised by the sprayer. Much depends on the nature of ventilation, the pressure created by the compressor and the nature of the material. For example, when the compressor goes to maximum pressure, and there is enough paint in the spray gun, it is better to apply it to the body openings, since the spray suspension will scatter a little more. After applying the enamel to the engine compartment, you can go around and paint the openings. Two layers per inside enough, but after finishing work on this front you need to move on to the outside:
- Large upper areas (roof, hood, trunk lid).
- Small upper parts (front and rear wings).
- Vertical areas (all four or two doors).
Following the instructions is not necessary, especially since it is more convenient to paint the front first, and back after, i.e. apply paint to the hood and front fenders, go through all the doors and then just move on to the rear. It is better to remove bumpers and all car parts that can be dismantled quite easily and paint them separately. Changes can always be made to this algorithm, but the main thing is to develop a single standard in which the painter will not get confused among the painted and unpainted parts of the car. However correct order painting is formed while working with your own hands, so many people prefer to use ready-made solutions.
One of important issues body repair Automobile painting is painting, which must be carried out in accordance with repair technology and using correctly selected materials: putties, primers, paints and varnishes. The main task of repair painting is to restore the factory paintwork while preserving the basic functional characteristics(mechanical strength, corrosion protection, etc.), as well as achieving maximum compliance of the repaired area in color and structure with the original paintwork of the body. The repair should be invisible.
Let's consider the main technological stages of body repair: washing and degreasing, surface cleaning, puttying, applying primers and finishing coatings.
By using wide range With the help of professional products for body repair, you can qualitatively prepare for painting and paint your car yourself. If the technology is followed, the result will be impressive. And the acquired skills will help you quickly and without extra money to paint the entire car or just damaged parts.
The materials included in the repair system must meet the following requirements:
- good adhesion
- anti-corrosion protection
- leveling (filling) capacity
- color allowing for discreet repairs
- suitable gloss level
It is obvious that all these factors are closely related to each other. In order to select the optimal repair system, it is necessary good knowledge products for body repair and their characteristics.
What materials are needed for a standard painting repair?
As a rule, painting some car parts yourself may be necessary if, for example, due to careless parking, scratches or abrasions appear on the bumper and doors. You don’t always need to immediately contact a service station; sometimes the situation can be corrected on our own. It will be enough to correctly estimate the scale necessary repairs and choose quality materials for preparing the surface for painting and painting the car itself. If the damage is minor, you can limit yourself to a set simple operations standard repair:
- Putty
- Ground leveler
- Finishing coating: synthetic, acrylic or polyurethane enamels
- Finishing coating: base paints under varnish
What is included in a full cycle repair and painting of a car?
If you had to deal with serious damage which, moreover, was not liquidated in a timely manner, will most likely have to be repaired full cycle followed by painting. This process will be longer (especially if you need to remove rust) and requires the following materials:
- Epoxy primer
- Putty
- Corrosion-protective primer
- Ground leveler
- Finishing coating – enamel
- Finishing coating – base paints under varnish
Do not forget that the selection of products for preparing the surface of a car for painting also depends on the material from which the part being repaired is made (steel, galvanized steel, aluminum or plastic) and on the type of old paint coating (hard or soft).
Currently, many manufacturers make their car bodies from galvanized steel and aluminum. This provides higher corrosion resistance and durability, but at the same time requires application special materials for repair. There are a number of products suitable for application to galvanized steel and aluminum.
Any type of body repair requires careful and correct execution a certain sequence of operations. A missed or incorrectly performed operation can lead to various defects paint coating.
Proper preparation of a car for painting: step-by-step instructions
- Washing
- Cleaning the area for painting
- Degreasing
- Applying putty
- Grinding
- Degreasing.
- Disguise under the ground.
- Degreasing
- Application of etching primer
- Application of primer-filler
- Drying
- Removing the disguise.
- Grinding
- Degreasing
- Paint camouflage
- Degreasing
- Application of paint/varnish
- Drying
- Removing the disguise
- Assembly
- Polishing
- Washing
Dust, dirt, road salt, grease, etc. are the main enemies of any painting system. Therefore, for any type of body repair, the first operation is washing.
Stage No. 1. Washing
Why do you need to wash and degrease your car when preparing the surface for painting:
- for removing various salt compounds, dirt, fats, etc. (due to unwashed salt, a defect such as “bubbling” may occur);
- for optimal adhesion of the repair coating (unwashed dirt gets clogged into the marks during cleaning);
- to save materials, time and money (due to dirt that gets on it, the abrasive material quickly becomes clogged and fails - grinding time increases);
- to eliminate the possibility of craters appearing (dirt remaining in the hazards after cleaning may contain fats or silicones);
- to eliminate low gloss (due to sanding product remaining in the marks).
Stage No. 2. Apply masking and clean the surface for painting
Once the car is washed, you can safely begin preparing the surface for painting. To do this, we designate the place where the painting work will be carried out. If we paint separate part, its borders need to be covered with masking tape and thick paper. Then you need to clean the defects (chips, scratches) with sandpaper (grain size P150-P280). This will remove layers of old paint and smooth out the edges.
Stage No. 3. Degreasing
- Always use two clean wipes when degreasing - the first wets the surface, the second (dry) removes contaminants dissolved in the degreaser;
- Carry out degreasing in small areas (approximately 50x50 cm) in order to have time to wipe with a dry cloth before the degreaser evaporates;
- Carry out degreasing immediately before applying the material;
- When degreasing, the surface cools, so you need to give time to equalize the temperature (condensation may occur);
- It is necessary to degrease in means personal protection: rubber gloves, respirator, safety glasses.
Degreasing is a mandatory step in the process of preparing a surface for painting, and it must be carried out before applying each subsequent layer.
Stage No. 4. Puttying
If the car has chips or deep scratches, before painting the car, you will have to use putty to level the surface. The putty is the thickest layer in the system, so it is what affects the final shape of the car body. When filling, it is necessary to turn Special attention on the choice of polyester putty and on preparing the surface for putty.
Preparing the surface for putty
|
Sanding before applying putty |
Stripping to metal - circles P120, then smooth the border edges P220 |
|
Shaping the putty |
Sheets P120-P180 for grinding with dust extraction |
|
Preparation for leveling soil |
Wheels P220 – P280 – machine processing |
|
Preparing a new panel for wet-on-wet primer |
Wheels P320 – machine processing |
|
Sanding before applying paint |
Waterproof sanding paper P1000 – manual processing Dry sanding paper P320 – P500 – machine processing |
Improper preparation of the surface for putty can subsequently lead to such defects in the paintwork as outlining. This can be avoided by following the following technology:
- Clean the degreased surface down to metal;
- Smooth out the edges of the repair area's stain more thinly.
Choice of putty
When choosing a putty, you should pay attention to the nature of the damage (size and depth of dents, hole in body panel etc.) and surface type (steel, galvanized steel or aluminum).
Basic rules for applying putty
- Apply putty only to bare metal surfaces or epoxy primer.
- Observe correct proportions when mixed with a hardener (maximum 3% hardener) - otherwise, if there is an excess of hardener, molecules will remain that do not react with the putty.
- Mix very thoroughly with the hardener.
- Never sand the putty “wet”, because... it is hygroscopic.
- Application of primers.
Hardeners
The hardener primarily affects the rate of hardening of the product. Therefore, the decisive factor when choosing a hardener will be the drying time of the product. Hardeners are mainly of three types - slow, standard and fast. It is very important to maintain the correct proportions when mixing any paint product with a hardener:
- If there is a lack of hardener, hardening (polymerization) will not occur completely.
- If there is an excess of hardener, the hardener molecules may react with another substrate. For example, with water (humidity), causing loss of shine of the paintwork. Remember that hardeners are the most sensitive of all products to moisture and low temperatures. Therefore, never leave a can of hardener open and observe the temperature conditions for storing and transporting hardeners.
Stage No. 5. Grinding
Before painting a car, any paint coating must be applied to a well-degreased and sanded surface. By grinding we make the surface “rough”. The many thousands of small scratches resulting from sanding increase the surface area, which ensures optimal adhesion of the coating to the substrate.
The time spent on surface grinding takes up more than 50% of the total repair time. For this reason, this part of the job should be as efficient as possible.
When carrying out grinding work, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- Choice of grinding type: dry or wet, manual or mechanical.
- Selecting the appropriate grinder depending on the type of work being performed: orbital, eccentric or surface grinder.
- Selection of abrasive material and grinding steps.
Is it possible to do without sanding the car before painting?
We have already said that the sanding process, carried out conscientiously, guarantees half the success of all painting jobs. During grinding, all irregularities are removed and a risk is created for better adhesion of each new layer of material to the previous one. We list the main points why the grinding stage should never be skipped and why it is needed:
- To improve surface adhesion with subsequent applied materials
- To create the required shape and surface
- To remove old coating
Dry or wet sanding
Dry grinding is the most advanced and promising and has a number of advantages compared to wet grinding:
- Save time
- Material saving
- Eliminating the possibility of corrosion
- Elimination of absorption and saturation of treated materials with water
- There is no need to wait for the water to completely evaporate
- Less harmful to health (in version with dust extraction)
- More diverse range of equipment for mechanical dry grinding
- Significantly wider range of abrasives for dry grinding
- For quality repairs It is necessary to use high-quality abrasive materials.
Selecting sanding steps
- Polyester materials (putties) cannot be sanded with water. Grinding of this type is allowed only at the stage of processing the leveling primer.
- When grinding, it is necessary to follow the correct steps in reducing the grain size of abrasive materials (each step in reducing the grain size should not exceed 100 units).
- The abrasive material must be marked with an international standard, which indicates the quality and uniformity of the grain.
- Border zones must overlap.
Stage No. 6. Padding
Primers provide protection against corrosion, level the surface and create good adhesion between the substrate and the finishing coating. They come in etch and acrylic primers.
Purpose of primary soils:
- Corrosion protection.
- Ensuring adhesion of the surface and the base of the subsequent coating.
Purpose of filler primers:
- Filling scratches from abrasive material, irregularities, leveling the surface.
- The basis for subsequent application of paint and varnish.
How to work with soils correctly?
- Use a measuring stick when mixing.
- Mix the soil thoroughly before diluting.
- If the primer is tinted, then paint is first added, and then hardener and solvent are added to the resulting volume in the appropriate proportion.
- Do not attempt to extend the product's pot life by adding solvent.
- Apply layers correctly - inside the stain to avoid over-spraying.
- Observe the correct drying intervals between layers and do not speed up the drying time between layers by blowing - the solvent is blocked by the film and “boiling” occurs.
- Use either dry or aerosol developer before sanding.
- Never use primers after the specified pot life after mixing.
- Do not paste too close to the priming area.
- Ensure that the soil is completely hardened (risk of deep scratches during grinding and subsidence).
Stage No. 7. Applying base/enamel
When the preparation of the surface for painting is completed, you can proceed directly to painting the car. In fact, this stage will take you much less time than those described above.
Painting a car yourself, if you follow all technological process in principle, no different from painting at a service station. Is it possible that there is no paint booth, the role of which is played by the garage.
A necessary condition for high-quality painting, in addition to the purchase of repair materials, is also the possession of special equipment, well, and at least modest DIY skills.
The car painting technology itself can be roughly divided into 5 main stages:
- Washing and cleaning the body.
- Removing and cleaning rust.
- Matting, filling and sanding.
- Priming and sanding.
- Car painting.
Depending on the quality of step No. 3, re-priming may be necessary. And of course, the intermediate steps will be gluing (masking) body elements that cannot be painted.
Below step by step guide with photos - so, let's go.
1 We wash the body first detergents, then, you should wash off all bitumen inclusions and other dirt that was not washed off with white spirit water or a non-evil solvent, for example 650.
2 Next, you should remove all stickers, badges and plates from the body elements that will be painted.
To remove stickers, use a hair dryer - it’s easier to remove when heated. We wash off the remaining glue with a solvent or a special rubber-like attachment on a drill.
3 We remove corrosion, just not with a grinder disk as in the photo, but with a special vinyl attachment on a drill or use the technology described in this article. After that, all areas to be puttied should be matted with abrasive sandpaper. The most convenient way to do this is with an orbital sander, and if you don’t have one, then with your hands.
4 Having degreased all the cleaned and matted areas, you can begin to putty. You can read how to do this technologically and correctly.
5 We begin sanding the putty areas. It is better to use a special plane for these purposes, into which abrasive paper with abrasive grain is inserted. the right size. If you don’t have a plane, buy a “grater” like the one in the photo below or use a flat wooden block.
6 All problem areas The car bodies are puttied and sanded, you can begin priming the repair areas. But first, you should cover the car parts that do not need to be primed with masking tape and paper.
Apply 2 thin layers of phosphate (acidic) primer to the “bare” metal, and then all putty areas are covered with a two-component acrylic primer in 2-3 layers. With this action we also fill in the risks from the coarse abrasive.
8 At this stage, you should slow down a lot, blow the car with compressed air and good lighting CAREFULLY examine the results of your work. If there are any risks, steps or other irregularities in the repair areas, which may not be visible to the eye, but can be felt with the palm of your hand, then you should mandatory re-prime with a two-component acrylic primer.
If everything is OK, then again, using an orbital or with pens, as in the photo below, you should “knock down” the risk from the previous grinding with an even finer abrasive. So, for example, for metallic painting this size is P500.
9 The line on the primed areas was cut off; all that remains is to prepare the rest of the surface to be painted for application of paint. And for this you need scotch-brite (metallic gray) and matting paste. The process technology is very simple.
Apply the paste to body part and, moistening the Scotch-Brite with some water, in a circular motion We begin matting the surface very carefully.
10 Everything is ready, we are preparing to paint, of course, with our own hands.
Remove all the adhesive (tape and paper) and use compressed air from the compressor (the word carefully necessarily applies to all technological operations during preparation and painting) we blow through all the cracks and openings where dust and water from sanding and matting could get in.
11 Prepare the room (garage) for dust-free painting, unless of course you paint in a paint booth. And we tape the body again, but this time for painting.
12 The next step is to wipe the car with clean lint-free wipes and anti-silicone compound until there are no streaks left.
13 Everything is ready, let's start painting the car. We dilute the paint, prepare the spray gun, and put on a painting suit. The following is an example of metallic painting (base and varnish).
First, you should apply the base (pigment) to the areas covered with primer, and then, following the technology of working with a paint sprayer, cover all painted elements with two layers of pigment.
14 Wash the paint gun and thin the varnish.
Observing the intervals between layers of drying, apply a couple of layers of varnish over the pigment and dry. The painting of the car is complete.
15 The last step is gluing and assembling hinged parts(headlights, lanterns), as well as badges and stickers.
Just like that, in fifteen steps, as I showed in the comic step-by-step technology how to paint a car with your own hands. Of course, everything is much more complicated and there are a whole bunch of nuances that need to be dealt with. But for a general understanding of car painting technology, I think it’s quite suitable.
After reading this, whether you want to repeat this process in your garage or entrust this rather “dusty and dirty” task to professionals is up to you to decide. If you decide to try it, then welcome! The whole site is to help you - read, try your hand. And remember, if you don’t try, you’ll never know how you did...
Photos courtesy of www.langstaffclassics.co.uk
Many motorists are faced with updating their paintwork, and most of them turn to professionals with such questions. After all, not everyone knows how to properly paint a car, and not everyone has the desire to delve into it. But there are also car owners who like to do everything with their own hands at home. Painting a car yourself saves money and sometimes gives results that are in many ways better than the work of specialists. It is for such people that this material is intended, which will tell car enthusiasts the main points of updating the paintwork with their own hands at home. The necessary tools and materials, requirements for the premises, preparation and painting of the car itself are considered. After familiarization, it is advisable to watch several videos on the topic for a visual understanding.
Tools and materials for painting work
Before you paint the car yourself, you need to prepare properly, because the car will not be available for constant trips for every little detail. Therefore, you first need to collect everything you need:
- compressor;
- spray gun;
- Bulgarian;
- brush attachments and grinding wheels for an angle grinder;
- devices for manual grinding;
- assorted abrasive paper;
- degreaser;
- automotive putty (if the body is slightly damaged);
- primer;
- base paint;
- solvent;
- finishing polish.
Now let's talk about everything in order. It is advisable to purchase a compressor and a spray gun good quality. There are craftsmen who achieve good results with their own hands and an electric household spray gun, however, this requires considerable experience. As a last resort, professional equipment can be borrowed from friends for a while.
The grinder is useful for stripping the body of old paint, traces of corrosion and for finishing. Here, it is better to give preference to a tool that is lightweight and has an adjustable spindle speed.
primer, base paint and it is recommended to select the same brand of varnish. This way you can ensure that all components do not conflict with each other. If the hood and everything else is painted metallic, then special attention should be paid to the shade of the base paint.
Preparing the car for painting
When everything you need is prepared, you can start working. To begin with, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the car yourself. After this, the old paintwork and traces of corrosion are removed. The hood and other body parts are carefully processed using a grinding machine. The technique for removing corrosion and paint can be clearly seen in the video on the Internet.
If the car is not severely corroded, then this is where the preparation for painting it yourself ends. The result should be a completely polished car, without any visible defects on the surface. If there was rot or traces of minor collisions on the metal, then you need to proceed to the next stage of preparation.
Large damages are repaired either using patches and a welding machine, or. The result should be the absence of rust and holes in the body.
Minor flaws are eliminated with ordinary putty, and with the help of grinding devices the original geometry of the body surface is restored. How these procedures are carried out correctly can be seen in the video on this topic.
After restoring the surface, all that remains is to cover those places that will not be painted, degrease the hood and the rest of the body, and also take care of protecting the interior space. Next, the car is placed in a painting room, about which a few words below.
Painting room
To properly paint a car with your own hands at home, in addition to the above, preparing the room is of great importance. Ideally in garage conditions a real painting booth is organized. But since this is somewhat expensive, it will be enough to adhere to the basic rules of painting a car.
The first thing to take care of is cleanliness. There should be absolutely no dust in the painting room. It doesn’t matter whether the car is painted metallic or another material, cleanliness is the key perfect result. For example, you can watch the video of how the pros achieve this. For this purpose, painting booths are equipped with an external air filtration system.
The second indicator of a properly prepared room for metallic painting is temperature. If staining is carried out in winter time, then there is no way to avoid installing sufficient heating.
The temperature of not only the air, but also the temperature of the car being painted is of great importance. Therefore, before painting, it is necessary to give the metal some time to settle. temperature indicators with the environment.
And perhaps master key to success DIY painting– correct lighting. It should be uniform, not creating glare or shadowed areas on the body. Typically, light sources are placed on the ceiling and evenly on the walls of the room.
Padding
On next stage The hood and other parts are primed. This procedure creates a base on the metal onto which the remaining layers of paint material will be applied. The quality of the primer will determine how easy it is to apply the paint and how long it will last. This is especially true for metallic painting.
The primer is prepared in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging. Using a spray gun, the first layer is applied, which is then matted with abrasive paper. At this stage, places that require additional treatment with putty will be clearly visible. When all defects have been corrected, the primer is applied again. The second coat will be the final coat, so it must be applied with extreme care and attention.
Applying base paint
Metallic painting is carried out in two or three layers. The first of them is applied with a fine mist. If there are any smudges, they are removed and the area is repainted. After applying the first layer, the hood and the rest of the body surface are inspected again for defects. After eliminating the defects and drying, they begin to apply the second layer, which is made thicker. Sometimes, with experience and a normal spray gun, it is possible to achieve normal metallic painting the second time. If after repeated application of paint a uniform layer is obtained, then the application of the base on the hood and on the rest of the surface can be completed.
Varnishing and polishing
For some, the varnishing process is the biggest challenge. Even professionals sometimes have a hard time applying it correctly to the base paint. This is due to the fact that the varnish is transparent, and errors are not so clearly visible during the work. But still at certain conditions and here you can achieve the perfect result.
After the varnish has dried and crystallized, it will be worth polishing the hood and the entire body. To do this, the surface is matted with fine abrasive and brought to a glossy state using grinder and polishing paste.
