Instructions

For the first 200 km, drive at a constant speed of 70 km/h. Keep the speed close to 2000 rpm. For the next 300 km, drive at a speed of 80 km/h. Engine speed should be around 2500 rpm. After this, replace it.

For 1000 km, drive without sudden acceleration in fourth gear at a speed not exceeding 90 km/h. Keep the speed no more than 3000 rpm. After this, replace the motor and rinse thoroughly engine.

There is also a more subtle engine running-in VAZ used by racing drivers. For the first 250 km, drive smoothly, in fourth gear. Smoothly increase the engine speed from 2000 to 2500, and then smoothly reduce it to 2000. The speed should vary from 70 to 80 km/h. And so on for the entire 250 km.

For the second 250 km, drive in the same way, but vary the speed in the range between 2500 and 3000 rpm. The speed will increase from 80 to 90 km/h. When finished, change the oil. For the next 500 km, drive with a smooth change in speed from 3000 to 3500. And for the last 500 km, gradually increase and lower the speed from 3000 to 4000 rpm. Vary the speed from 80 to 100 km/h. When finished, replace and rinse engine.

During the break-in process, use standard engine oil filled at the manufacturer or imported with SAE 15W40 or 10W30. Upon completion of the break-in process, use any oil, loads on engine increase smoothly, avoid sudden increases in speed. The following substitutions Check the oil after a mileage of 5000 km, 7500 km and 10000 km.

note

You must remember that a new car must be run in so that in the future it will serve you faithfully long years. Before you roll in new car, you should know exactly what processes occur in its main components and assemblies.

Helpful advice

Even if you think that the car you purchased does not need special regime, since modern parts do not require lapping, and the engine is run-in at the factory, you must remember that any car, even if the manufacturer does not indicate the need for a special break-in regime. When breaking in a new car, try to avoid routes that put a lot of stress on the engine and chassis.

Sources:

• Properly running in the engine after a major overhaul
• VAZ 2108: do-it-yourself engine operation and repair

In the first days, a new car requires special attention, all units and components must “get used to” each other. Even if you don't think that new car needs breaking in, try to follow some simple rules so that in the future fuel consumption, service life, and dynamics will only please you.

Instructions

Start driving only after the engine has warmed up at low speed, in idle move. This usually takes about 5 minutes of operation. Do not warm up the engine at high speeds. If you are not experienced enough, invite an experienced driver to test the car.

Try not to check the first 1.5-2 thousand kilometers maximum possibilities car, that is, do not “drive”. It is during this period that such important qualities motor, both dynamics and efficiency. Full time job too low or too high speed can lead to the fact that the result of the engine operation will be far from that declared by the manufacturer.

Eliminate sharp pressing on the gas pedal, wheel slip, car jerking, etc. The optimal engine operating range for the first 1.5 thousand kilometers is 2-4 thousand revolutions. At the same time, don’t “pull” new engine, too much low revs are also harmful.

Try to idle as little as possible. It is important to break in not only the engine, but the entire car.

To brake pads worked long and efficiently, do not brake too sharply for the first 500 kilometers. Shift gears carefully and smoothly, without crunching.

Never use a trailer on a new vehicle or overload it with passengers or luggage. Check the oil and fluid levels in your vehicle daily. Use only basic lubricants recommended by the manufacturer.

Try to pick a day and do the first 300-500km on a good straight track, it will be very helpful. Find country road with a good asphalt surface, run in the new car. Try to avoid driving on steep climbs or downhill, off-road.

Tip 3: How to do it major renovation engine for VAZ

Engine overhaul is a set of measures aimed at improving engine performance. During the repair process, it is necessary to bore the cylinders. This is the most difficult thing; you need to trust the procedure to an experienced turner.

A major engine overhaul is necessary when the cylinders drop to an unacceptably low value. This happens due to many reasons. This is erasure piston rings, the pistons themselves, the appearance of play in the main and connecting rod bearings, in the oil pump. Overhaul is a huge set of measures aimed at improving engine performance. Before starting renovations, you should consider a strategy.

If the engine installed in the car is still able to function, then it will be much more attractive to buy a used engine from the same model of car. The law allows this, just ask the seller for documents for the engine. This will protect you from purchasing a stolen engine. And repair this particular motor, and then all that remains is to install it on the car. If the engine is unable to continue working, the car will have to be repaired. Of course, you will need to have transport, since trips will be frequent.

Removing the engine from the car

To carry out repairs you will need inspection hole and a winch on a crane beam. Using a crane beam it will be much easier to remove the engine from under the hood. The engines of all VAZ cars have special eyes. Just before pulling out the motor you need to do the following:

Disconnect the battery;
- Unscrew the four bolts that secure the engine to the box;
- disconnect the cooling system pipes, first draining the liquid;
- disconnect the exhaust manifold;
- disconnect the wire from the carburetor solenoid valve idle speed, choke and gas cables.

After disconnecting all the cables and wires going to the engine, you need to hang the engine on the winch. Only after this can the engine be removed from the mountings. You need to be careful with the engine and gearbox, as damage is possible. However, if you plan to replace it, then you don’t have to be afraid.

What to do during a major overhaul

The first thing that needs to be done is boring the cylinders. During this procedure, the thickness of the liners decreases and the volume of the entire cylinder increases. If boring is not possible, then the sleeves must be replaced. After boring, the surface must be honed. Honing can be done in a grid or under a mirror. By making it into a grid, you will get an increase in power, but this will not be felt for long. After 4-5 thousand kilometers, the grid is erased and the power decreases.

Be sure to replace the main and connecting rod bearings. Carefully ensure that they fit tightly to the surface and that the holes intended for lubricant flow are not closed. If you do, then it is necessary to improve the lubrication system; for this you need to make an additional groove in the liners. It is impossible to do this manually, since not a single file will take hardened steel. Only competent specialists with good machines are able to perform this operation efficiently.

Sources:

• VAZ-2106 engine repair

After engine overhaul, impatient or inexperienced drivers eager to quickly test the strength of their car with its new “heart”. This is how they make a huge mistake, which threatens many minor troubles in the future. Even after minor repairs the engine loses part of its power, and for the first time after major intervention its power is about 30% of the original. In order to return the car to operation you will have to tinker!

Why is it necessary to run in an engine after a major overhaul?

Running in the engine internal combustion needed in several cases - after leaving the factory, major overhaul or long downtime. Moreover, you should be aware that a factory engine is always faster to break in than a repaired one. Even perfectly fitted parts cannot be so smooth that you can drive at full speed on the very first trips.

Starting the engine after overhaul - video

To restore the previous performance characteristics the engine may require major overhaul, including replacement individual parts or entire nodes. After a thorough intervention, use vehicle in the usual mode is not recommended until the machine has undergone a phased run-in in compliance with all rules and recommendations.

Running in an engine after a major overhaul is an extremely necessary measure to extend the operating life of the engine and reach the level of its performance indicators. Neglecting the rules and recommendations for running-in will lead to a decrease in the working potential of the repaired car by at least 25%, and sometimes by 60-70%, while the right approach will create a multi-year safety margin.

Engine break-in is a gentle operation of a new or repaired engine. Run-in is necessary since new parts require mutual running-in of rubbing surfaces, on which micro-irregularities and minimal disproportions are possible.

The usual duration of the first stage of the run-in run is about 3 thousand km, and only after this is a gradual increase in loads allowed. Complete grinding of parts is completed no earlier than 10-15 thousand kilometers. During this time, when using recommended oils and controlling loads, the likelihood of significant scuffing and melting in places of micro-irregularities on the replaced parts is completely leveled out. During the break-in period, engine loads and crankshaft speed should be reduced to 60% of the nominal values.

Even the presence quality components does not allow you to do without running-in. There are several main reasons for this:

• it is impossible to provide factory conditions at the service station, as a result of which the build quality will suffer to some extent;
• due to their service life, the condition of elements that do not need replacement differs from the original;
• new parts are being manufactured cutting tool and even after fine processing they often do not fully correspond to the required parameters.

First engine start after overhaul

Before running in, you should properly start the engine for the first time. This moment is extremely important, so it is necessary to do everything to ensure that the modules, environments and systems provide maximum support for the reanimated engine at initial stage after major renovation.

• The battery is fully charged, otherwise its resource may not be enough for heavy crankshaft running.
• The serviceability of the starter is checked.
• Oil is poured to the top level. To simplify it, it is better to immediately measure the required volume and add as it is gradually filled. To avoid formation air lock oil filter do not need to be filled out before installation.
• Fuel is supplied manually or by pump until the float chamber is filled.
• If there is no auto drive, air damper covered according to the outside temperature. In cold weather, the oil can be heated and the engine block can be brought to above-zero temperatures.
• The starter starts the engine and the pressure gauge should almost immediately show oil pressure in the range of 3.5 - 4 kg/cm2. If after 3-4 seconds idle work this did not happen, the engine is urgently turned off to eliminate the causes. The appearance of smoke from under the hood when the engine is warming up indicates the combustion of oil that got inside during assembly or installation. This should not cause concern, since the smoke soon goes away and does not recur.
• At normal pressure oil is carried out idle warm-up motor to the recommended temperature, usually 85-93℃ at 750-800 rpm, and the appearance of all kinds of leaks is monitored.
• Next, the radiator fan starts, and after it runs, the engine should be turned off. After waiting until the engine cools down to a warm state (30-40℃), the warm-up cycle is repeated up to 15-20 times, after which the actual running-in begins.

It is advisable to first familiarize yourself with the recommendations for compliance speed limit during the running-in period, contained in the vehicle instructions. Run-in on the move is preceded by a run-in at medium speeds with monitoring of any sounds, the occurrence of which is unacceptable:

• 1000 rpm - 3-4 min;
• 1500 rpm - 3-4 min;
• 2000 rpm - 5 min.

The speed during the run-in period with a light load should not exceed 60-70 km/h, excluding the use overdrive. During the first 500 km, it is possible that blue exhaust and the manifestation of some instability in speed in idle mode, which requires additional debugging. You can precisely adjust the speed after 1000 km.

As the mileage approaches the 3000 km mark, it is allowed to increase the speed to 90 km/h. A further increase in speed requires caution and reaches a maximum no earlier than reaching the mileage threshold of 10-15 thousand km.

Run-in after a major overhaul has an impact on the seals, leading to a slight subsidence of the gaskets, which is why threaded connections are somewhat weakened. That is why it is necessary to monitor the degree of engine heating and periodically tighten the fasteners.

Change of oil

At the initial break-in stage (about 3,000 km), it is recommended to change the oil filter and oil up to three times. The grinding of parts during this period is especially harsh, which causes the appearance of numerous ultra-fine chip particles.

Ideally, you should update the oil after 500, 1000 and 2000 km, using only a high-quality product recommended by the manufacturer. Upon completion of the break-in, another oil change is performed and the engine is flushed. Now nothing prevents you from using synthetic oils.

Important Cautions

There are a number of undesirable conditions that can create new difficulties for the car owner, which is why it is not recommended to allow the following:

• use the car without preheating on idle speed;
• increase speed to 2000 rpm;
• load the car to capacity with passengers and use a trailer;
• change speed suddenly;
• use one operating mode of the engine for a long time, without alternating driving in higher and lower gears within reasonable limits.

It is important to remember that major car repairs will only bring benefits with proper running-in and timely maintenance.

Perhaps, when running in a repaired engine, you need to follow the same rules as when operating a new, recently purchased car. Engine oil must be mineral, otherwise the break-in period will double. And in general, before the first start, it doesn’t hurt to measure the compression - it will become clear what to expect from the “new” engine. In general, after a major overhaul, only a specialist can properly break in the engine. But using standard rules, you can carry out this process yourself, even with some difficulties...

It happens that after the capital comes from the pipe White smoke. Let's look at the video.

When releasing a new car, the manufacturer could pour “mineral water” or “semi-synthetic” into the engine. The same should be used during break-in. Do you want to remove the coating layer in the cylinders? Then you can immediately fill in synthetics, “hydrocracking” and the like.

Viscosity of “synthetic” and “mineral” at 100 C

If the pressure is reduced, the running-in is stopped immediately. By the way, before the start you can.

The lamp with the “oil can” should go out 5-6 seconds after starting the engine.

First launch after capital

Keeping the engine at “warm-up” speed for a long time is not at all advisable. The optimal range would be 1500-2500 rpm. And by the way, try to exclude .

Lamp " Insufficient pressure oils"

So, in order to break in the engine after a major overhaul, you need to start it. And turn it off almost immediately! Our goal is to ensure that the oil can goes out.

Launch number two

After the first start-stop, check the following:

• Are there any fuel leaks - the smell of gasoline may appear under the hood or near the sofa;
• Oil should not leak either - look at road surface under the engine.

We carry out the next start, bring the temperature to maximum, and turn off the ignition again. We are looking for leaks a second time.

First, let's discard attempts to use ECO mode with an automatic transmission: in order to save fuel, the transmission will include high gears as soon as possible! Sport mode, on the contrary, can be used, but there won’t be much difference with or without it. We are not going to spin the engine above 2500 rpm.

Let it be better “Sport”

A lean mixture is not needed during break-in. So it’s better not to use the ECO mode with a manual transmission either... In general, after a major overhaul, running in the engine will be easy: you need to do everything that you would do after buying a new car with the same engine.

The break-in period is usually 2000-2500 km.

What not to do

• Do not open throttle valve even at 1/2 – the gas pedal should move in the range of 0-50%;
• Acceleration will be slow: we bring the “gas” to 50%, wait for the establishment constant speed, then turn on the next gear;
• Don't use cruise control!
• If there are extraneous noise, overheating has begun or one of the light bulbs has come on, there is no need to despair. It will be enough to turn off the engine, cool it a little and continue the trip again.

Case from practice

The engine “smoke” after repair, and the mechanic says something about grinding in the valves, about changes in the properties of the oil and that all problems will go away on their own... Such statements must be answered with the question: can a new car “smoke”? If oil is consumed, it means the valves are not ground in. But it’s not a fact that they will get used to it after the first “thousand”.

This shouldn't happen

As for oils, everything is clear: even on engines where only synthetics are suitable, during break-in they use material without modifiers. We are talking about break-in oils. And nothing should smoke when using them.

Ideally, everything looks like this:

1. Replaced (rebuilt, repaired) the engine;
2. When they started it, it “smoked”, and even a lot;
3. The engine ran for 20 minutes, and the revolutions could reach up to 3000. And the problem gradually disappeared.

Anything else will be a “deviation from the norm.” And perhaps this deviation is caused by some defect.

Another smoking engine on video

You have overhauled the engine of your car, and now you are faced with the task correct operation during the period of grinding in new parts. In our article we will tell you how to carry out this important process correctly so that your engine can last as long as possible without breakdowns.

Lapping in parts

Deviation from compliance with requirements proper running-in in a very short period of time can negate an engine overhaul, which is not a cheap pleasure. After the failed parts in the engine have been replaced (usually crankshaft liners, piston group rings, when boring the cylinder block - pistons, gears oil pump etc.), new ones must be adjusted to their environment.

The surfaces of the friction pairs are grinding in, and this is only possible with the engine running. This moment is significant in that it appears in the engine oil. a large number of tiny metal particles. These are roughnesses invisible to the ordinary eye that were erased in friction pairs. Proper running-in allows these irregularities to be smoothed out and prevents friction pairs from quickly destroying each other.

As a result of proper running-in, the service life of rubbing parts is extended several times compared to those that have not been run-in.

Beginning of the lapping process

Proper engine running-in after a major overhaul begins with starting the engine and running it at idle speed. After 30-40 minutes, we strongly recommend replacing the oil filter with a new one.

After this, you can drive the car, strictly observing certain rules, which will be discussed below. As soon as the car has driven the first 1000 km, we do a complete oil change in the engine. After another 1500-2000 km, the main break-in process can be considered completed; the oil and oil filter must be replaced with new ones.

Riding style

After a major overhaul, it is extremely important not to overload the engine during running-in.

Such riding methods as “pull” riding are contraindicated. With it, due to low revolutions, oil starvation engine, especially the upper part where the camshaft is located. This increases wear and reduces engine life. It is a mistaken belief that driving "pull" saves fuel. This type of driving does not have any savings for the owner.

Those who like to drive like this and have already done a major overhaul of a VAZ engine have become aware of heavy wear fourth cylinder of the engine. Moreover, not only the piston wears out - the resource on the crankshaft is also “eaten up”. There is no point in talking about the camshaft at all - it is very difficult for it under these conditions. And if “pull” driving on Volga cars does not have such catastrophic consequences, then such driving is contraindicated for the engines of VAZ family cars, and even more so during break-in.

For the entire break-in period (2500-3000 km), you should have a calm driving style. The number of revolutions should not exceed 3 thousand. It is necessary, if possible, to avoid lifting from steep slopes, slipping in mud and any other loads on the car - only a quiet ride.

When starting from a stop, you should engage the clutch gently so that the load on the engine increases smoothly and not abruptly.

What you should never do during break-in

If during break-in your engine begins to overheat, do not turn it off under any circumstances. You need to stop, turn on the interior heating to maximum, turn off possible load(air conditioner), open the hood and achieve equalization of the temperature in this way.

After overhauling the engine and running it in, it is under no circumstances recommended to tow another car, drive with a trailer, or overload your car. All these actions lead to heavy loads on the engine, which means they are unacceptable under any circumstances.

It is also not recommended to use such a technique as engine braking during break-in. Of course, when emergency situation This rule can be ignored, but during normal operation, avoid this method of slowing down.

As you can see, running in the engine after a major overhaul is, in fact, its logical conclusion.

Neglecting it important process will soon put you in front of the need to re-repair the engine.

Those who do not want to become a frequent visitor to car repair shops should fulfill all the requirements for proper running-in.

Reliable and long-term operation of the engine after overhaul will confirm that you did everything right.